What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread

[Account Deleted]

Hey tyre gurus, have just got a new bike with a mullet set up. Front is an assagai 29x2.5 which is new to me and am liking a lot, will leave as is. Rear is an 27.5 x2.5 aggressor which I have run before and like, but would like to be bigger: want more climbing and braking traction. Problem is it maxes out at 2.5 width.

All 2.6 maxxis tyres seem to be out of stock in australia at the moment in the thicker casings so am looking at an eddy current rear.

Reading around on the forum threads it sounds like 2.6 eddy currents are narrower than spec.

So am thinking of going 2.8 but will this be too wide for 29mm internal width rims? People seem to complain bout the casing being too firm, so I’m thinking I could get away with it - won’t squirm too much? Any other issues to consider? Will only be ridden in dry and dusty conditions, no mud really

I used 27.5x2.8s a lot on rims with 40mm & 35mm ID on my old Levo. I wouldn't put one on less than 35mm myself, I think it will squirm and be shit generally.

 

[Waynemarlow]

35mm ID is good to about minimum on the 2.8's depending on the tyre. All too often we hear 2.8's being slagged by people as being squirmy on lower pressures only to ask what width of rim they are running. Usual answer is " I don't know " and more than often 30mm. Usual get around is higher pressures but then you are defeating the object of getting a wider contact patch.

Rule of thumb if the tyre looks like its too wide for the rim, it is. Equally make sure a 2.8 will fit, not all bikes have that sort of clearance.

 

[STATO]

35mm ID is good to about minimum on the 2.8's depending on the tyre. All too often we hear 2.8's being slagged by people as being squirmy on lower pressures only to ask what width of rim they are running. Usual answer is " I don't know " and more than often 30mm. Usual get around is higher pressures but then you are defeating the object of getting a wider contact patch.

Rule of thumb if the tyre looks like its too wide for the rim, it is. Equally make sure a 2.8 will fit, not all bikes have that sort of clearance.

I think its also due to plus tyres generally only being available in lighter casings. The size already makes them heavy so most plus riders would not want the extra weight, for ebikes it would probably be worth it. My ebike came with a 27.5x2.8 DHR2 on the rear in EXO+ and i hated it. Swapped to a 29" wheel with 2.3 aggressor and was much happier for most riding. It doesnt have ultimate climbing grip but i dont really use ebike for much tech climbing.

 

[Gary]

Whenever 2.8 tyres are slagged by an actual decent rider It's 100% because they're SHITE in almost every situation in comparison to a 2.4/2.5 at any sort of decent level/speed. And that's regardless of what rim width they're fitted to, Ebike or normal bike.

 

[Tomsk]

From what I’ve read, casing is really stiff, so hoping this may offset the too narrow rim. But that’s all theory obviously. I agree that it doesn’t seem to stack up though.
In a few other threads I’ve read the 2.6 eddy measures closer to 2.4. I’d be better off keeping my current set up if that’s true.

I do have frame clearance to accomodate a 2.8

If they did an aggressor in 2.6 and double down casing I’d buy that and be done with it.

edit: I should add - I have never ridden with 2.8 tyres! happy to experiment though, and kinda makes sense to me with the mullet set up

 

[Waynemarlow]

Whenever 2.8 tyres are slagged by an actual decent rider It's 100% because they're SHITE in almost every situation in comparison to a 2.4/2.5 at any sort of decent level/speed. And that's regardless of what rim width they're fitted to, Ebike or normal bike.

But Gary, I would suspect that you with your road background and 95% of people on this forum, including myself are " ordinary " riders. We don't and will never need the ultimate speed setup, we just need comfortable grip that will get us where we want to go, at an ordinary speed, safely.

 

[Doomanic]

But @Gary, I would suspect that you with your road background

That probably isn't enough emojis, so here's some more...

 

[Doomanic]

Fuck it. That still isn't enough, so here's a gif...

 

[Gary]

I've no idea what medication this guy is on but I'm kinda intrigued to try some myself.
Stupid people always seem happier.

 

[Pascal Funk]

To ride at Mach 2, it's ok.
But considering my current state of health, I removed the 2 DH22 and will go up to 2 in 27.5 X 3 .00"
Want to try the fattie
The 3 "is missing, I wanted some in stock before o in stock

 

[Waynemarlow]

Stupid people always seem happier.

Gary I always find the stupid people are the ones who always want to have the last say in any matter.

Awaiting your reply

 

[Doomanic]

Nice bait. You realise that if he does respond you can never post in this thread again?

 

[Waynemarlow]

Nice bait. You realise that if he does respond you can never post in this thread again?

Said all I want to say, off riding in a mo with some mates, its dark, its goner be muddy, looking foward to a pint on the way home, only sad thing is its on my analogue as 1/2 of them are not convertees yet.

Are we building up to a typical Gary response, its SHITE, its always SHITE and I've changed a 1000 bottom brackets more than you.

 

[Pivot]

I have learned that people who attack another person, have typically ran out of logical arguments.

Therefore, the moment you are personally attacked, you have won the intellectual argument and now the losing party is resorting to underhanded tactics.

 

[Coolcmsc]

Moving on… I hope it’s OK to ask this one about tyre wall wear here
What does anyone think is going on with the sidewalls of this MAXXIS DHR II 3C DD MaxTerra 27.5 x 2.5?
And,
Is it fine to continue to use the tyre?
This pattern is on both sides and on most of the circumference. It goes from the rim roughly to level with the top of the insert. The writing on the tyre wall is kinda smeared in places towards the rim and the wear is weirdly less there. There’s evidence of sealant congealing on the inside under areas of most wear on the outside. It looks like maybe sealant has leaked through on the outside, but it hasn’t: that’s just the threads in the wall.
I've had a quick Google and it's been noticed for a few years with several manufacturers, especially OEM MAXXIS, but with no concrete explanation. Can’t find anything here. New to me.
The story:
Rear from my Bullit. OEM Tubeless from new with a CushCore insert. Rim: Alu RaceFace ARC 30mm OEM. The tyre has ridden 1000km on a wide variety of U.K. trails from Wharny through The Peak round Hope/Edale/Win Hill, Forrest reds like Dalby/Gisburn and b-parks like Llandegla red/blacks. It has some life left in the tread. It's almost always run at 25psi (never lower than 23psi, never higher than 30psi). It holds air well, (2 weeks to loose ~4psi). I'm 88kg with pack etc.
I think it's probably nothing to worry about, so fine to continue using it, but thoughts welcome. For example, perhaps this shows my pressure is too low, but I don’t understand how that would expose the sidewall nearer the rim to more rubbing than the part further away, except the wear is where the wall is and further out, that’s tread

 

[Gary]

That's just the tyre casing threads showing through the outer layer of sidewall rubber. The layer which covers the sidewalls is pretty thin as its not a contact patch. purposely keeping it a thin layer keeps tyre weight down. Old skool Amber Wall tyres don't even have that layer.
And No. Its nothing to worry about.

 

[urastus]

In a few other threads I’ve read the 2.6 eddy measures closer to 2.4

It may still be high volume - how tall is it? For example, the maxxis aspen was tall and high volume but not particularly wide.

 

[Gary]

Gary I always find the stupid people are the ones who always want to have the last say in any matter.

Awaiting your reply

Not nearly as stupid as continually responding and offering advice, opinions, assumptions and just plain making stuff up when you clearly have no clue on the subject matter.

You did ask for a response.

 

[Coolcmsc]

That's just the tyre casing threads showing through the outer layer of sidewall rubber. The layer which covers the sidewalls is pretty thin as its not a contact patch. purposely keeping it a thin layer keeps tyre weight down. Old skool Amber Wall tyres don't even have that layer.
And No. Its nothing to worry about.

Thanks

 

[RustyIron]

It has some life left in the tread.

Ahdunno, man. I would have thrown that tire out long ago.

 

[Coolcmsc]

Ahdunno, man. I would have thrown that tire out long ago.

HaHa! That plays on my mind, because I do have it’s replacement tucked away on a shelf ready to go (another DHR).
It will go on soon.
But this one’s improving my skills so much….
Seriously tho’, my experience is that the DHR stays predictable as it wears and that’s a key feature for me that’s not always true of tyres that are predictable when new.
Of course it’s not quite as ‘grippy’ now -- mainly in a straight line. Cornering’s as good as ever still, as 2/3 of each nobble (knobble?) is still there.

 

[carlbiker]

I can now remove a rear wheel easy, little did I know the mech could be pulled back further

I might actually do a maxis standard compound vs schwalbe ultra compound braking traction comparison video just to see if there is any slight feckin difference whatsoever……what do you guys reckon, anything in it?

I have so many tyres it’s nuts, rubber fetish!! I do like the smell though

 

[apac]

I can now remove a rear wheel easy, little did I know the mech could be pulled back further

I might actually do a maxis standard compound vs schwalbe ultra compound braking traction comparison video just to see if there is any slight feckin difference whatsoever……what do you guys reckon, anything in it?

I have so many tyres it’s nuts, rubber fetish!! I do like the smell though

i have a dhr max grip and a Mary ultra soft on my bike at present. Hard to say which tread feels/seems softer. But For stopping it would definitely be the DHR. The tyre overall just feels so much more supple and 'rubbery'. The Double down casing is so fecking cool. Even so, with the deep puddles and a thick covering of fallen leaves at the moment there's no grip anyway

 

[Gary]

I might actually do a maxis standard compound vs schwalbe ultra compound braking traction comparison video just to see if there is any slight feckin difference whatsoever……what do you guys reckon, anything in it?

of course there is. But...
Don't waste your time. You're not an advanced enough rider for your results to yield any meaningful consistency.
By using tyres with different tread patterns and construction you wouldn't be comparing compound. Plus Maxxis do not have such a thing as "standard compound"

 

[DrStupid]

When traction is good the tires scream "go faster!" when traction is not good... they whisper and its hard to guess WTF their saying.

 

[pmcdonald]

The bike I'm waiting on comes with non-tubeless Kenda Regolith tyres, mullet size. This is my first MTB. Keep or swap?

On the plus side I can wear them down while saving some money.

On the negative side they don't get a whole lot of love online, and I do want to go tubeless.

On the meh side I'm such a beginner I'm not sure I'll appreciate quality rubber yet.

 

[Gary]

Even a complete beginner should appreciate a good tyre with appropriate tread pattern and tubeless set-up.

Kenda historically (with a few exceptions) have missed the boat on good tyre design

Swap out your front for something more decent/appropriate and use the rears as skidders until you're ready for great grip front and rear.

 

[carlbiker]

of course there is. But...
Don't waste your time. You're not an advanced enough rider for your results to yield any meaningful consistency.
By using tyres with different tread patterns and construction you wouldn't be comparing compound. Plus Maxxis do not have such a thing as "standard compound"

Yeah your right.

I’ve got the BB ultra soft, MM super trail, DHR2 maxxterra and so far in the slop schwalbe have worked better at clearing the mud out but like you’ve said before Maxxis work better at speed than the granny pace I like to set (but maybe I take pleasure in prolonging a scary dh section! ).

I became a schwalbe fanboy after my maxxis dhr2 couldn’t cope with a few poxy rocks at Ladybower but after getting back on them they have been so much fun in the dryer softer stuff!

My guess is about 30% more braking traction with the ultra soft tyres, probably not enough to have saved my off though but curious to know.

They behave differently to the supertrail like they don’t slide around anywhere near as much which might be weird for most people used to shifting the rear around, it’s like it wants to only go in straight lines, anyone else have the BB ultra soft and felt similar?

Other thing is since my Rise is meant to be lighter there’s around 800g of difference just in the tyres, then I have inserts and the wheels are heavier so the whole setup is different but I’d trust it any day over the Maxxis for stuff like Skiddaw and it’s nasty little jagged edged rocks (quite surprising what the surfaces are like up there!).

Speaking of not trusting Maxxis for Skiddaw, one of the other maxxis guys got a puncture on his dhr2, it was the exo version, seems exo+ is the minimum to go for

I wouldn’t mind giving the WTB a go next I think.

 

[Gary]

You don't listen Carl.

I didn't ever compare Maxxis to Schwalbe.
Only an idiot would.

It's not exactly rocket science that a dry/loose condition tyre tread design won't work as well as a wet or intermediate tread when it's muddy.

It's laughable reading the nonsense you type on the subject of tyres

 

[apac]

Yeah your right.

I’ve got the BB ultra soft, MM super trail, DHR2 maxxterra and so far in the slop schwalbe have worked better at clearing the mud out but like you’ve said before Maxxis work better at speed than the granny pace I like to set (but maybe I take pleasure in prolonging a scary dh section! ).

I became a schwalbe fanboy after my maxxis dhr2 couldn’t cope with a few poxy rocks at Ladybower but after getting back on them they have been so much fun in the dryer softer stuff!

My guess is about 30% more braking traction with the ultra soft tyres, probably not enough to have saved my off though but curious to know.

They behave differently to the supertrail like they don’t slide around anywhere near as much which might be weird for most people used to shifting the rear around, it’s like it wants to only go in straight lines, anyone else have the BB ultra soft and felt similar?

Other thing is since my Rise is meant to be lighter there’s around 800g of difference just in the tyres, then I have inserts and the wheels are heavier so the whole setup is different but I’d trust it any day over the Maxxis for stuff like Skiddaw and it’s nasty little jagged edged rocks (quite surprising what the surfaces are like up there!).

Speaking of not trusting Maxxis for Skiddaw, one of the other maxxis guys got a puncture on his dhr2, it was the exo version, seems exo+ is the minimum to go for

I wouldn’t mind giving the WTB a go next I think.

You need Double Down (at least on the rear) for anything sharp If you are heavy and clumsy. Or pump up your tyres until they are as hard as Gary's criticisms.