What did you buy your ebike this week?

I also bought one of these a few weeks back that I'm finding really useful in drying the bike, does a much better job than I do with a towel. It's got great airflow which is quite powerful, has a few attachments to direct the air in different ways and the length of the lead is not bad. My only gripe with it is the power button is a press and hold.


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Looks like a Clanger ;)
 
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I had to Google that
Me to but I still don‘t get it. 🤔

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A lovely pair of yellow Ohlins factory race lowers for my DH38s, courtesy of the other half as my Xmas gift 😜.

They’re being fitted by J-Tech when they have the forks to do a custom tune in the New Year and I’m weirdly excited to see how they look on my KSL and my (analog) FRS.
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Well they didn’t get to go on my ebike yet, but they look awesome so have a photo anyway 😜.

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J-Tech have done a cracking job with the custom tune on the fork and shock, I don’t think I’ll ever bother riding stock suspension again as it’s just an exercise in aggravation (I find setting up suspension incredibly tedious).
 
A bottle of methylated spirits for the final degrease of the chain (I use a diesel as the main degreaser) instead of my usual boiling water and Gunk (dilutable degreaser).
Don't know if it's just me but those Linkglide chains rust like crazy as they don't seem to have any surface protection on the side plates so I decided not to use water until the weather warms up again in Spring and can be sure all the waters evaporated.
 
A bottle of methylated spirits for the final degrease of the chain (I use a diesel as the main degreaser) instead of my usual boiling water and Gunk (dilutable degreaser).
Don't know if it's just me but those Linkglide chains rust like crazy as they don't seem to have any surface protection on the side plates so I decided not to use water until the weather warms up again in Spring and can be sure all the waters evaporated.
Any chance there is something on your drive train carrying or creating carbon steel particles, that may set down on the chain and cause rust stains?
 
Any chance there is something on your drive train carrying or creating carbon steel particles, that may set down on the chain and cause rust stains?
No, I think the boiling water and degreaser did to good a job of completely degreasing the chain. I fully dried the chain then used an 'all weather lube" (wax based) last time I cleaned it (a drop on every inner and outer pivot plus a drop between inner links and rollers. Came back a few days later (this was over Christmas) and everywhere without the lube was was going rusty (I'd done one 20 mile ride with the wax lube before I put the bike away for Christmas for 3 or 4 days). So I'm going back to an oil lube and avoiding water as I'd rather have a thin film of oil on the chain than red rust. All weather lube is useless in British winter slop imo.
 
I'd use petrol, then degreaser then finish with metho to get the chain perfect then I would apply a wax bath.

Now I just apply squirt and don't even remove the factory grease. Too much stuffing around.
 
this week nothing but he got peatys tubeless setup for Christmas from that Fat guy in red, and loving it BIG time, the Stans didnt cut it. the valves ate lovely but at $50ish theyre a lot but really nice, Krush drive train cleaner and ebike chain wax its so smooooth now
 
Hmm weird that Stans did not make it, why? You got a flat and it did not work or you liked the smell of peatys product :D

On my end I use the peatys premium lube for a year and it is really good, that said I wonder to go full wax (bath) but honestly wax seems more heavy on cleaning chain in/chain out - and cost as you would need a new master link each time. I also don't know how bad it would be with low and idler pulley as it could store and keep debris in it.

Squirt lube looks good but I wonder if I would see any difference. Honestly I clean after every ride my chain and relube it and go full degrease it maybe after 5 ride.
 
Re: waxing -- if you use the new Silca Strip Chip you can wax a chain with factory grease on it, none of this faffing around doing degreasing baths with solvents. I used it over the spring/summer/autumn and it was great. I do prefer to use Molten Speed Wax so I was doing the first 5-10 waxes of a new chain using the Silca Strip Chip w/Silca Ultimate wax*, and then I'd switch to MSW.

I also didn't bother with a new master link each time, just replace them when they get a bit soft and you don't hear the "click" when refitting. I'd get about 10-15 uses out of a single master link which was perfectly acceptable.

I've gone back to lube (Silca Synergetic wet lube) for the worst of the winter because I'm using a SRAM GX chain and these rust very quickly if they're waxed and get wet. The XO and XX chains are plated with something so they don't seem to suffer with it. I'll replace the GX chain with an XO one when I can find one that isn't £80!

*This would get decanted into a tub to be saved for the next new chain to be waxed.
 
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Float X2 Factory for my 23 Orbea Wild. Usual PITA, had to knock the bearing out of the fitting to install. It's upside down (trunnion mounted at the bottom). Stupid frame then impedes the air valve so needed a 90 degree adapter that wasn't longer at the valve than 24mm. Found one and all sorted. Except it's unridden as the snow in Calderdale is mental
 
I needed a Schrader valve adapter for my Airshot tubeless tyre inflater. Could not find one anywhere that I could order with confidence that it would fit. So I emailed Airshot and asked them to send me one. The guy there was going to charge me £5 for it delivered. I emailed back asking for the method of payment and he said don't bother and just sent me one! Nice! :) And it works!
 
So far ive changed out the stock seat for a Ergon E mountain sport seat..the stem to Raceface affect 50mm +6 degree and the grips to some ODi grips. Feels much better to me.
 
A new shock bolt for the broken Jam. Turns out it's the wrong one & doesn't fit. Quick phone call to the retailer reveals the right one is part of an indivisible linkages pack & that will be £110 please sir. One bolt, £110 😢

For now, I've robbed one off another bike but it's only a temporary thing, so the search is on. You wouldn't believe how hard it is to find an M8 x 45, 1.25" socket head shock bolt. Let's see if the Nukeproof one I've bought off Ebay works.
 
A new shock bolt for the broken Jam. Turns out it's the wrong one & doesn't fit. Quick phone call to the retailer reveals the right one is part of an indivisible linkages pack & that will be £110 please sir. One bolt, £110 😢

For now, I've robbed one off another bike but it's only a temporary thing, so the search is on. You wouldn't believe how hard it is to find an M8 x 45, 1.25" socket head shock bolt. Let's see if the Nukeproof one I've bought off Ebay works.
 
.......... You wouldn't believe how hard it is to find an M8 x 45, 1.25" socket head shock bolt. ...............
I know what M8 means, it's a metric thread bolt that is 8mm diameter.
I assume that 45 mean 45mm long. Is that overall, or from the under the head?
What does 1.25" mean? It means "one and a quarter inches" to me, but it's probably not what you mean. And what is its relevance?.
I understand "socket head" to mean that the head is a cylinder without a taper to the bolt diameter, ie a square shoulder. The socket is where the Allen key goes.
Does any part of the bolt have an unthreaded portion? I'm thinking of the bit where the shock bushing fits.

If I fully understand what you are looking for, I would be happy to have a look as well. :)
 
I know what M8 means, it's a metric thread bolt that is 8mm diameter.
I assume that 45 mean 45mm long. Is that overall, or from the under the head?
What does 1.25" mean? It means "one and a quarter inches" to me, but it's probably not what you mean. And what is its relevance?.
I understand "socket head" to mean that the head is a cylinder without a taper to the bolt diameter, ie a square shoulder. The socket is where the Allen key goes.
Does any part of the bolt have an unthreaded portion? I'm thinking of the bit where the shock bushing fits.

If I fully understand what you are looking for, I would be happy to have a look as well. :)
Hi! Here are 3 rear wheel axles, same length, same diameter but 3 different threads, 1/1.5/1.75.
I assume 1.25 is the thread pattern (if it's the right way to name it...).
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It refers to thread pitch. As mentioned above, the choices are either buy the whole linkages pack if I want to stay OEM or find a substitute, which I have done as stated above.
 
So it's an M8 bolt with a 1.25mm pitch thread.
It is 45mm long.
How much of that 45mm is unthreaded?
What I did recently was to buy a longer shanked bolt than needed and retheaded it to match the frame.
Ideally the shank needs to be the full length of the shock bushing because any threads get flattened with movement and makes you think the bush is worn when it's the threads that are squashed.
 
I'd rlolat that but I'm busy trying to work out what the f**k Kinobe have to do with global warming. :ROFLMAO:
 
I'd rlolat that but I'm busy trying to work out what the f**k Kinobe have to do with global warming. :ROFLMAO:

Lyrics for "Lucidity" by Kinobe:

Verse 1]
I heard a great story once to get across the point that the Earth really is alive
If you were to interview a butterfly standing on the branch of a sequoia tree
Now, a butterfly lives only for a few days, and a sequoia tree can live for over a thousand years
If you were to ask the butterfly, "Do you perceive the object on which you're standing as bein' alive?"
The butterfly would say, "Of course not. I've been here all my life,"
Which is all five days, "and the tree hasn't done a thing"

[Verse 2]
Well, it's the same problem with the human being
If you were to ask a person, perhaps one that's lived for over a hundred years
They perceive the Earth, which is really five billion years old, as bein' alive
They'd say, "Of course not. I've been here my whole life, and it hasn't done a thing

Let me know if you don't understand this. 😀
 
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