What did you buy your ebike this week?

Why would anyone wear their very expensive false teeth when they are pulling extremely dangerous stunts on an MTB, or any other dangerous sports, where they have a high chance of breaking/losing/choking? I am pretty sure it's universal (common sense) in all "cultures".
 
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A 34t chainring (Praxis, as fitted OEM but down from 36t) to try to improve ground clearance a little bit. My chainring bottoms out before the skid plate on the underside of the motor and I hate the idea that the force from those strikes is being transmitted to the bearings in the motor. I would have gone 32t but it's out of stock at the moment.
 
Rs zeb 170
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I have a fake tooth myself, but do they then remove their fake teeth for the stunts and races?
Like maintenance people who have to remove all jewelry for their shift ?

Ever seen a pro hockey player? Same thing as with the pro riders ... they wait until their careers are over for permanent implants/bridges/etc. They're just going to get hit in the face again with a puck or stick and there's also the risk of increased injury when that happens.
 
I'm sure Airtags have been discussed in other threads . . . But today I saw this idea on a Facebook Trek forum I belong too. Great idea. I like the way the holder locks under a water bottle bracket with a specially keyed bolt head. I ordered two one for each bike and a set of 4 Apple Air Tags today. I figure the extra two air tags can be used in luggage when flying or traveling.

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I'm sure Airtags have been discussed in other threds . . . But today I saw this idea on a Facebook Trek forum I belong too. Great idea. I like the way the holder locks under a water bottle bracket with a specially keyed bolt head. I ordered two one for each bike and a set of 4 Apple Air Tags today. I figure the extra two air tags can be used in luggage when flying or traveling.

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They aren't specialty screws. They are just 25mm 20mm tamper proof torx screws. You can by torx tamperproof keys at most hardware stores.
 
They aren't specialty screws. They are just 25mm 20mm tamper proof torx screws. You can by torx tamperproof keys at most hardware stores.
Well, the average kid thats grabs your ride. . . at least "tamper proof" torx screws are going to make it inconvenient for him to get the airtag off which can give the police and I some extra time to potentially locate the bike. It can't be whacked off with a hammer very easily either because the airtag holder is sandwiched between the frame and my metal bottle holder.
I doubt the average druggie is going to have a compliment of torque wrenches on him in varying sizes especially the ones that have a hole in the center.
I have a huge assortment of tools, many many allen wrenches accumulated in a big plastic box (mabye 100+) plus a few folding allen wrench sets and none with the hole in the center.

I don't take my eyes off my ride and lock it with a cable lock if I'm going to be more than a few feet away from it like when eating or drinking coffee on a bench outside a store. My biggest concern is getting bike jacked when stopping at a traffic light. If that happens, they can have the bike. I have insurance. But hopefully with an air tag we can track them down before they get too far away.

And damaging the frame while trying to get the torx bolts off has to hurt the stolen resale value. Any damage to a bike is going to raise an eyebrow as to it being a stolen bike that say listed for sale on Craigslist. $35 for an airtag and the holder is a pretty cheap theft deterrent IMO.

The best they can do with a damaged frame is to chop it up and sell it for parts and good luck selling used bike parts. Upgrade your front shocks and see what you can get for the old one in the aftermarket 🙀
 
While out yesterday my transmission was a little creaky so I did a Google search and came up with these to remedy it, I have a new chainring so a near full new transmission should stop any further noises 🤞

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A day out at Dirt Farm. (y) The bike was very happy there and I went along to keep it company.(y)
 
Nice. Let me know what you think of it Please.

So far very nice. I am running less pressure than I was before the conversion. Yet fork feels it rides a bit higher in the travel than it did before. It's also very quiet. I no longer hear the oil squish sound from the slow rebound setting. What I love most is how much easier it is to dial in the fork.

On the old damper, it took several days of riding, to dial in the fork. I was able to dial in the fork even better than I had it before due to the simplification of the dials on the new damper in only a couple of runs.

I've also noticed chatter has been significantly reduced as well from the buttercups.

Definitely an improvement to me, but not one that I'd say, an absolute must for old model Zeb owners. As the cost of the new damper and air spring is fairly steep.

If you have the option of buying a new older model Zeb which are now selling at sale prices or a current gen Zeb, I think the cost of the new Zeb is worthwhile over the cheaper older model.
 
This arrived this morning, good timing because was going to QE Country Park for a ride (y)

Stacked it, and crashed on my front. The chest protection worked perfectly, but did a face plant and although nothing broken my chin isn't pretty.

Wasn't wearing my full face helmet. My bad. :(

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This arrived this morning, good timing because was going to QE Country Park for a ride (y)

Stacked it, and crashed on my front. The chest protection worked perfectly, but did a face plant and although nothing broken my chin isn't pretty.

Wasn't wearing my full face helmet. My bad. :(

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Good of you to buy it then test it properly. 👍
 
I've been trying to winterize/weatherproof my bike in anticipation of the pending shit weather that we get here in the west of Scotland. I already had an RRP bolt on front mudguard fitted and a Pro Guard at the back to protect the suspension linkages and the rear of the motor. This week I've added a Zefal Deflector rear (after reading a recommendation for them on here). It was only £14 and it mates with the Pro Guard to give excellent protection for the bike (especially the dropper) and me. Hideous? Well yeah it is but I can't see it when I'm riding and it's so effective that it's a price worth paying for the gloopy months. I also added a neoprene cover over the battery compartment (after noticing water and mud ingress previously) and sealed the switch/power level selector on the top tube with bike saver tape. Hopefully it'll all help to protect my bike.
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Marzocchi Bomber CR with a cane creek coil for my Cube hybrid 160 sl... took me a very long time, but really really really should have done this way earlier. Thanks again @Jona for helping/providing all the details to get the right items! Dialed it in at the local bikepark - Next week is Winterberg/Willinge/Greenhill Germany for a week's holiday - hopefully it will rain less (and be a tidy bit warmer) than forecasted...
 
I've been trying to winterize/weatherproof my bike in anticipation of the pending shit weather that we get here in the west of Scotland. I already had an RRP bolt on front mudguard fitted and a Pro Guard at the back to protect the suspension linkages and the rear of the motor. This week I've added a Zefal Deflector rear (after reading a recommendation for them on here). It was only £14 and it mates with the Pro Guard to give excellent protection for the bike (especially the dropper) and me. Hideous? Well yeah it is but I can't see it when I'm riding and it's so effective that it's a price worth paying for the gloopy months. I also added a neoprene cover over the battery compartment (after noticing water and mud ingress previously) and sealed the switch/power level selector on the top tube with bike saver tape. Hopefully it'll all help to protect my bike. View attachment 97915

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I used to have the zefal rear, great guard and easily adjusted but it has a tendency to really rub your paint work and I got a very annoying duck quacking kind of noise from it when hitting the gnarly stuff lol.
 
Since I know I will be more careful, thorough, and conscientious than any for-profit bike mechanic, I do all my own maintenance and part replacements (other than the new Brose motor that was replaced under warranty). My most recent project was replacing all the link bearings on my Turbo Levo, which revealed the need for a Brose cap puller (S175300006), blind bearing yanker outer (Bearing Pro Tools), and a 10 - 60 Nm torque wrench (Hazet). I also got a fork seal pusher inner and a 3d printed block so I can extend one Magura MT7 piston at a time for cleaning.

Yeah, people can bodge/kluge these tasks without the proper tools. I prefer the right tool. The money I don't spend at the repair shop goes into tools. I like making and fixing things, so donating my labor is not a problem.

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I used to have the zefal rear, great guard and easily adjusted but it has a tendency to really rub your paint work and I got a very annoying duck quacking kind of noise from it when hitting the gnarly stuff lol.
The seat stays where the Zefal clamps go are already heli taped so hopefully it should be okay and as it's jammed on top of the RRP ProGuard it's absolutely solid and can't sag towards the tyre. I think the Maestro rear triangle on the Giant lends itself to this kind of set up as non of it moves independently behind the linkages so there are no issues with changing clearances.
 
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