Levo Gen 2 Turbo Levo - Chainring replacement - What do I need to get?

Grannyjones

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Turbo Levo 2020 Comp - Chainring replacement is now needed. What do I need to get that is going to be compatible ?
 
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A Praxis steel ering is a direct replacement.
I bought mine here
They're out if stock at the moment, but if you preorder, they'll despatch as soon as new stock arrives.
 
Any 104BCD chain ring which says it's compatible with 11-speed will fit, just make sure it is made from steel (ebikes will worn out aluminium ones very quick), also if you buy it from 3rd party make sure you also buy a chain ring bolts as not all of them come with threaded holes in the chain ring itself ... The one suggested from @KennyB is OE for Levo, but this one lasted only about 2kkm on my bike, but it is cheap though ...
 
I use a Hope ally chainring and its lasting very well. But there again I don't use the motor / full torque all the time.
 
Hope alloy 36T on my Levo has currently done 600 miles with little to no signs of wear, bike gets used it Turbo lots (more than any other mode)
 
Well I've got a spare 32T chain ring (that was originally meant to go on a different bike) and the bolts don't seem to fit the spider or whatever its called
 
No problems or wear with an aluminium Hope one on mine either, plenty of use in turbo
 
Do you need to remove the crank to remove and replace the chain ring? Or will it fit over the crank arm?
 
It goes over the crank arm with little bit of fiddling...
 
By far the longest lasting is the Wolf Tooth stainless steel
I have nothing but steep hills to climb so the 30T is my sweet spot. I get about 6-8 months out of the stock steel/Praxis one. Aluminum ones last about 2 weeks. The Wolf Tooth is good for a year+
 
Is there threaded holes in the chainring itself 2021 Turbo Levo? I maybe need a little bit bigger chainring.
One that have those threated holes.
Does 36t come out how much from the bottom of the motor? I mean with 32t the "motor cover" covers the chainring also from rocks.
36t gets the hits?
 
Put away your flame throwers - this is a sincere question. ? How do you guys determine that the chain ring is worn out? Measure teeth with a caliper? Inspection? Test fixture? I've got more than 5000 miles on my original chainring (with quite a bit of climbing on nearly every ride) and I don't notice any performance degradation or noise.
 
with mine it was noise but I could also feel some roughness through the cranks. I changed cassette and chain only initially but I could both feel and hear that the chain was not happy on the original chainring. So changed that after one ride.
 
Put away your flame throwers - this is a sincere question. ? How do you guys determine that the chain ring is worn out? Measure teeth with a caliper? Inspection? Test fixture? I've got more than 5000 miles on my original chainring (with quite a bit of climbing on nearly every ride) and I don't notice any performance degradation or noise.
5000 miles is great! The surface where I ride is like sandpaper without the paper so the chainring and cassette feel rough by about the third chain. When they feel rough and the new chain doesn't appear to fit well is when I replace them.
 
Put away your flame throwers - this is a sincere question. ? How do you guys determine that the chain ring is worn out? Measure teeth with a caliper? Inspection? Test fixture? I've got more than 5000 miles on my original chainring (with quite a bit of climbing on nearly every ride) and I don't notice any performance degradation or noise.
Talk about coincidence! I thought the chain grunch noise that just started happening when I'm in 1st gear on a steep slope was caused by a misadjusted derailleur. But the derailleur shifts up and down the cassette normally and has no trouble getting into low gear or high gear. The B tension setting is proper according to my SRAM gauge. I stopped several times today on various hills to adjust B tension in quarter turn increments clockwise and then counter-clockwise. The adjustments did not affect the grunch noise.

So I ordered a new chainring when I got home!

My chain fails the 0.5 test but passes the 0.75 test (Park tool gauge). I have a new chain in hand.
 
I have just bought a Works Components 34T alloy ring with the 104 BCD. I did have a Hope 36T alloy ring on the bike from new and that lasted 20 months and 1,800 miles. I think that 34T is the sweet spot with the standard 11-42 cassette. It was obvious from the teeth profile that the old one was worn out, however it was functioning just fine.
 
I think that 34T is the sweet spot with the standard 11-42 cassette.
This depends on what terrain you are riding, for hills around me 11-42t on 32t chainring was sometimes pretty masochistic on long/steep climbs. Now I have changed to Eagle 11-50 and it's a bit better, still I think I could go 10-52t on 30t chainring without problems...
 
This depends on what terrain you are riding, for hills around me 11-42t on 32t chainring was sometimes pretty masochistic on long/steep climbs. Now I have changed to Eagle 11-50 and it's a bit better, still I think I could go 10-52t on 30t chainring without problems...
On the other end of the spectrum, here in coastal Florida I found most of the gearing to be unused so I first changed to the 34T chainring then later to the 11-36 cassette (which was a lot more difficult). Now the range is good for the trails here.
 
I must be in the OEM gearing sweet spot! With 11-42 and 32 I can get up my toughest climb using "1st gear" in turbo when it's hot and I'm out of shape, in trail and 1st when I'm in better shape, and in trail and 2nd gear when it's cool outside and I'm in the best shape I'm willing to work for. This progression repeats every year.
 
Put away your flame throwers - this is a sincere question. ? How do you guys determine that the chain ring is worn out? Measure teeth with a caliper? Inspection? Test fixture? I've got more than 5000 miles on my original chainring (with quite a bit of climbing on nearly every ride) and I don't notice any performance degradation or noise.
My experience is that the chanin ring will start to make a creaking noise, which can sound like there is something wrong with the motor.
 
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