Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[wheelsx2]

How are you getting on with the Vivid? Still good?

It's working well. Not super plush, but very controlled. I am using all the travel though, compared to the stock float X. The Vivid came with a c34 shim stack. When I have it serviced, I will have it changed to a c26 shim stack to lower the range of the compression adjustments.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

For what it’s worth, I cannot find a fault with the new 2024 Fox X2 @ 62.5mm stroke. The recommended settings for the psi needed for 30% sag are very accurate. The only thing I changed was to add 2 clicks of LSC. I use about 90% of the travel on a typical ride, which I’m ok with. That leaves a little extra for that rare big hit. Like the one I took when I broke 5 ribs on New Years Day. Yeah, I won’t be ridding for a while.

 

[Jack of All Trails]

Looking at upgrading my headset on my 9.7 exe 2023. Has anyone done this, and what did you upgrade to? Results? thanks in advance. Also, what specs too please. thanks Jack.

 

[The Reverend]

I'm about 18 months or so into ownership and am thoroughly enjoying the bike.

What I have found though, especially as other mates are running new SL bikes is that the support and range are behind the current bikes.

Specialised Levo SL2 and Santa Cruz Heckler SL are more efficient and supportive at the eco and mid levels.

What doesn't help in my situation is that I weigh over 100kgs and they're about 20-25kgs lighter than me. Fitting Fox 38 forks, Super Deluxe Ultimate coil, tyre inserts and heavier duty tyres all have my XL 9.8XT weighing in at 21.44kgs.

My solution has been to buy another battery. That way I can ride at the support level I want without added weight or range anxiety, and just swap the depleted battery out mid ride at the car.

All in all, it's still a stellar ride, but a firmware update or larger range battery would be a great thing to see for the TQ motor performance and range.

 

[TheRed]

Any hints for replacing the rear mech cable? The outer is hitting something in the chain stay and refusing to get through, regardless of how much twisting I do. I have tried routing it back to front and front to back.

 

[TheRed]

Any hints for replacing the rear mech cable? The outer is hitting something in the chain stay and refusing to get through, regardless of how much twisting I do. I have tried routing it back to front and front to back.

Turns out that there was the biggest gob of rock solid mud in the chainstay, completing blocking it, had to poke really hard with a spoke to get it shifted, then break it up and pull it out.
3 hours of my life I'm not getting back.
Good old British weather.

 

[gamble]

If you had mud in there you should really pull the battery cover and make sure your downtube and motor area aren't full of junk as well. I'm assuming you already had it out from swapping that cable housing, but just a heads up.

 

[TheRed]

If you had mud in there you should really pull the battery cover and make sure your downtube and motor area aren't full of junk as well. I'm assuming you already had it out from swapping that cable housing, but just a heads up.

Thx

 

[wheelsx2]

Looking at upgrading my headset on my 9.7 exe 2023. Has anyone done this, and what did you upgrade to? Results? thanks in advance. Also, what specs too please. thanks Jack.

There kind of is no headset, just bearings and a top cap and a crown race.
I run a tall top cap and use shims to that the seals barely contact the frame. I use a Cane Creak stainless crown racer.

Top bearing: FSA: Type: TH-873E ACB 36°x45° MR122 for 1 1/8" - IS41
Outer diameter: 41mm
Inner diamter: 30.2mm
Height: 6.5mm
Bearing: Industrial ball bearings

This is common. Cane creek BAA1054 Cane Creek HellBender Stainless Steel 30.2 x 41 x 6.5 – 36/45 is an example. Enduro and other makes the exact same size.

The rear is not common.
Stock: Fsa 1.5 36/45 ACB Mr127
FSA TH-073 ACB 36° x 45° MR127 Bearing Drop In IS52 Headsets
FSA Bearing 073 E for Drop In IS52 (36°x45°) headsets.
Product features
Type: Integrated (IS)
Lower: 1 1/2" / 36°x45° - IS52
Outer diameter: 52 mm
Height: 8 mm
Bearing: Industrial ball bearings

All replacements I have found are 6.5mm.

For now I just keep a spare stock bearing on hand.

Good luck!

 

[Emailsucks98]

I'm about 18 months or so into ownership and am thoroughly enjoying the bike.

What I have found though, especially as other mates are running new SL bikes is that the support and range are behind the current bikes.

I'm surprised the Levo SL seems to have more range/support, I wonder if that could be down to the rider weight differences. Some reviews have said it was under-powered compared to the trek.
I rode a fair bit last year with a friend who has a Relay, typically big days. He definitely gets more range/power. We concluded the difference was about 20%, which is makes sense given the 430 vs. 360wh batteries. He's probably also a bit fitter than I am. I do often bring my second battery when we ride together.

I really appreciate riding with people who find a pace that works for the entire group, regardless of equipment.

 

[Cell4soul]

Fun ride yesterday. Used both batteries. Still had 20% left in one and 11% in the other. All mid and boost, no eco.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

I'm about 18 months or so into ownership and am thoroughly enjoying the bike.

What I have found though, especially as other mates are running new SL bikes is that the support and range are behind the current bikes.

Specialised Levo SL2 and Santa Cruz Heckler SL are more efficient and supportive at the eco and mid levels.

What doesn't help in my situation is that I weigh over 100kgs and they're about 20-25kgs lighter than me. Fitting Fox 38 forks, Super Deluxe Ultimate coil, tyre inserts and heavier duty tyres all have my XL 9.8XT weighing in at 21.44kgs.

My solution has been to buy another battery. That way I can ride at the support level I want without added weight or range anxiety, and just swap the depleted battery out mid ride at the car.

All in all, it's still a stellar ride, but a firmware update or larger range battery would be a great thing to see for the TQ motor performance and range.

What you really mean is your support and range are behind, not the bikes. The EXe was built to be light and it’s really for fit riders that just want a little assistance. It’s light enough to be ridden turned off. It’s only about 4 pounds heavier than some trail bikes. I’ve ridden mine, turned off for 22 miles with 2,500’ of climbing. Adding a bunch of weight to an EXe just defeats its purpose in life and what it was designed for. You would have been better off buying a more powerful bike with a bigger battery, a Fox 38, a coil shock, tire inserts and heavier tires. It would have been a lot cheaper in the long run and you would have a bike better suited for you. What you’re feeling is buyer remorse.

 

[The Reverend]

What you really mean is your support and range are behind, not the bikes. The EXe was built to be light and it’s really for fit riders that just want a little assistance. It’s light enough to be ridden turned off. It’s only about 4 pounds heavier than some trail bikes. I’ve ridden mine, turned off for 22 miles with 2,500’ of climbing. Adding a bunch of weight to an EXe just defeats its purpose in life and what it was designed for. You would have been better off buying a more powerful bike with a bigger battery, a Fox 38, a coil shock, tire inserts and heavier tires. It would have been a lot cheaper in the long run and you would have a bike better suited for you. What you’re feeling is buyer remorse.

I too have and do ride the bike without the power on occasion and it is very good. I'm more than fit enough to do this.

Granted, yes I have made it heavier and more sturdy and that is going to impact the range.
The support / range relative to its rivals can't be denied as the Mtbr.com test indicated. Those bikes were stock and the rider is much lighter.

One friend is on the Levo SL2 with Zeb and a coil. He's a similar weight and height but by his own admission not as fit as I am.
On the same ride he'll use less battery but be ahead on the climbs.

Your comments about what you thought I meant, what would suit me, and what I'm apparently feeling were unwarranted and just plain wrong.

I didn't want the look, noise, drivetrain wear or the heft of a full power bike so I knew what I was getting myself into.
If you read my post full you'll see I did state at the end that it's a stellar bike to ride.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

I too have and do ride the bike without the power on occasion and it is very good. I'm more than fit enough to do this.

Granted, yes I have made it heavier and more sturdy and that is going to impact the range.
The support / range relative to its rivals can't be denied as the Mtbr.com test indicated. Those bikes were stock and the rider is much lighter.

One friend is on the Levo SL2 with Zeb and a coil. He's a similar weight and height but by his own admission not as fit as I am.
On the same ride he'll use less battery but be ahead on the climbs.

Your comments about what you thought I meant, what would suit me, and what I'm apparently feeling were unwarranted and just plain wrong.

I didn't want the look, noise, drivetrain wear or the heft of a full power bike so I knew what I was getting myself into.
If you read my post full you'll see I did state at the end that it's a stellar bike to ride.

Not every bike has everything that we want. It’s always a compromise. Like computers, as time goes on, they just keep getting better and better. The bikes a year from now will be lighter, more powerful and will have better range. We are already seeing that. You’re taking a trail Ebike and making it into an enduro Ebike and expecting it to have good range. With the added weight and your weight, that’s not going to happen. I think you should have a more powerful bike with more range and learn to deal with the noise. The Turbo Levos go by me on the climbs and honestly, I don’t even hear them.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

I too have and do ride the bike without the power on occasion and it is very good. I'm more than fit enough to do this.

Can you show us a screen shot of one of your longer but typical rides. I’d like to see how much power you are putting in compared to how much power the bike is putting in. There are some things you can do to get better range. If you strike a really good balance between your power, proper power settings and cadence, you can get a lot more range. And, Eco doesn’t always get you the furthest distance. The higher powers take more electricity. But, you are also covering ground a lot faster.

 

[The Reverend]

Can you show us a screen shot of one of your longer but typical rides. I’d like to see how much power you are putting in compared to how much power the bike is putting in. There are some things you can do to get better range. If you strike a really good balance between your power, proper power settings and cadence, you can get a lot more range. And, Eco doesn’t always get you the furthest distance. The higher powers take more electricity. But, you are also covering ground a lot faster.

I absolutely do get and understand that as soon as you've bought a bike, the technology will get surpassed. It's inherent in the game. My situation and preferences are for the bike to be set up as it is, and to compensate for the compromises I've bought an additional battery. This is not ideal but very workable I'm finding.

Would bringing the bike back to stock improve the range? I'm not sure or convinced, and I prefer how it rides currently so I'm unlikely to change anything back.

Regarding tracking rides, I've not done that in a while as I'm not fussed about the data.
After a look in the app here's as recent an example as I can find.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

You’re definitely putting in more power than the bike is. And yeah, the lighter it is the more range you’ll get. The EXe likes a high cadence. Anytime I’m going uphill I’m at 100 rpm or more. I know that seems fast, but you get used to it. Try a higher cadence and see if that helps you keep up with your friends. With two batteries maybe slide all the power settings to 300W with the Assist being different for all three modes. That way with a higher cadence you’ll get as much power as possible, based on the Assist percentage in whatever power mode you are in. I hope that makes sense.

 

[The Reverend]

I

You’re definitely putting in more power than the bike is. And yeah, the lighter it is the more range you’ll get. The EXe likes a high cadence. Anytime I’m going uphill I’m at 100 rpm or more. I know that seems fast, but you get used to it. Try a higher cadence and see if that helps you keep up with your friends. With two batteries maybe slide all the power settings to 300W with the Assist being different for all three modes. That why with a higher cadence you’ll get as much power as possible, based on the Assist percentage in whatever power mode you are in. I hope that makes sense.

It does, and thanks for the suggestions.
The cadence I'll try first to see how it goes but the 300w output setting for all power levels is interesting.

I currently have that as the max output on high, with mid and eco at 200w and 100w respectively.

I'll see how it goes. And like I say, it's a great bike and encourages rowdy riding.

 

[LuvnmyEXE]

That's a good question. I recall my Ohlins came with the Igus bushings like Fox uses, I had to swap those for a bronze DU bushing like RS uses for the shock hardware to fit correctly. I think my Ohlins was a new take-off so I'm not sure if they typically deliver with those Igus bushings.

Thanks, sounds good. I think I will take one, TTX1. Are there any special bushings needed for lower shock eye, or those from RS Seperdeluxe will fit?

I think you'll like it. I run mine at 65 stroke it is great.


I bought this from modern bike to make the hardware work. Need to get the correct spacer width.

Part Num 755015
Ohlins Mounting Hardware Kit, (15mm), 8mm x 40mm
$16.00
Quantity 1

 

[Jack of All Trails]

There kind of is no headset, just bearings and a top cap and a crown race.
I run a tall top cap and use shims to that the seals barely contact the frame. I use a Cane Creak stainless crown racer.

Top bearing: FSA: Type: TH-873E ACB 36°x45° MR122 for 1 1/8" - IS41
Outer diameter: 41mm
Inner diamter: 30.2mm
Height: 6.5mm
Bearing: Industrial ball bearings

This is common. Cane creek BAA1054 Cane Creek HellBender Stainless Steel 30.2 x 41 x 6.5 – 36/45 is an example. Enduro and other makes the exact same size.

The rear is not common.
Stock: Fsa 1.5 36/45 ACB Mr127
FSA TH-073 ACB 36° x 45° MR127 Bearing Drop In IS52 Headsets
FSA Bearing 073 E for Drop In IS52 (36°x45°) headsets.
Product features
Type: Integrated (IS)
Lower: 1 1/2" / 36°x45° - IS52
Outer diameter: 52 mm
Height: 8 mm
Bearing: Industrial ball bearings

All replacements I have found are 6.5mm.

For now I just keep a spare stock bearing on hand.

Good luck!

Thanks for this, will check it out

 

[Jazzii]

I think you'll like it. I run mine at 65 stroke it is great.


I bought this from modern bike to make the hardware work. Need to get the correct spacer width.

Part Num 755015
Ohlins Mounting Hardware Kit, (15mm), 8mm x 40mm
$16.00
Quantity 1

Thanks! I go for it!

 

[Dave_B]

Range extender question.

Caveat - I don’t really understand electrics.

The RE is 160wh
The main battery is 320wh

When using the RE, how is the motor able to pull full power from such a small battery? It uses the RE before the main battery, so I don’t understand how the motor get can full power?

I am probably being very stupid, but it’s something that is bugging me…….

 

[Cell4soul]

Range extender question.

Caveat - I don’t really understand electrics.

The RE is 160wh
The main battery is 320wh

When using the RE, how is the motor able to pull full power from such a small battery? It uses the RE before the main battery, so I don’t understand how the motor get can full power?

I am probably being very stupid, but it’s something that is bugging me…….

The internal battery is 360 wh. The battery shouldn’t need to be full or be a large batteryto get full power. If so, wouldn’t that mean we would lose power on all our rides as the battery drained.

 

[njatherton]

Range extender question.

Caveat - I don’t really understand electrics.

The RE is 160wh
The main battery is 320wh

When using the RE, how is the motor able to pull full power from such a small battery? It uses the RE before the main battery, so I don’t understand how the motor get can full power?

I am probably being very stupid, but it’s something that is bugging me…….

Those figures are theoretical maximums i.e. 160W for 1 hr. Your motor will draw whatever power it needs during your ride, so, theoretically, if your motor uses 80W average your battery should last 2 hours, 40W - 4 hours, etc.

 

[wheelsx2]

Range extender question.

Caveat - I don’t really understand electrics.

The RE is 160wh
The main battery is 320wh

When using the RE, how is the motor able to pull full power from such a small battery? It uses the RE before the main battery, so I don’t understand how the motor get can full power?

I am probably being very stupid, but it’s something that is bugging me…….

Full power is only 300 Watts. At (guessing) 48v, the max current draw would be 6.25amps. A single 18650 battery cell is capable of up to 20A continuous discharge. All seems reasonable.

 

[Dave_B]

thanks all. sounds good. like I say, I'm an idiot with electricery. I can wire a plug, but no more than that.
I'm satisfied that I can stay ignorant and just ride the bike

 

[EnduroIntern]

Joined the club in December with an EXe 9.5/9.7
Already had 500Km on it and loving every moment.
Wanted an eMTB, but one that would still make me work for it. Cleaned some climbs that were impossible on a regular MTB, but still needed to work super hard for it. What an amazing feeling.

Wanted a 9.7, but the LBS did not have one in stock in colors I wanted, but they did have an L in Dnister black.
So they bike has the frame of 9.5, suspension from 9.7 and some parts from the Fuel EX gen 5 (meat bike), which I traded in for it.
* Line elite wheels
* Maxxis tyres - The bonty ones have 0 grip in the wet
* Code R breaks ( I actually like Sram breaks..)
* 200mm HS rotors front and rear
* GX cassette + wired GX shifter + X01 chain
Chain ring is the e*13 that came with it. Might change that to the xsync-fsa combo if I find the parts.

Got many great tips from this thread
* Check motor bolts torque
* Check the small bits like chainguilde, clip in battery hatch, downtube protector

Initially the bike developed a knock, it always started during a ride and was not present at the start of a ride. Took it to the LBS, non sure exactly what they did, but they refitted the shock, and now the knock seems to be gone.

Some motor impressions
* I feel it really likes to be pedalled at ~75 RPM. Going to 80 and above and the noise get significantly more noticeable. So I'm kinda getting used to pedalling a bit slower with more torque.
* After taking the bike from the LBS, it had the muffled growl described here some times. I was a bit disappointed since I did not notice it in any of my rides up to that point. Figured it is just a result of enough Km ridden. Fortunately, after a 2hr ride, riding in high cadence, and high rider power output, the grown went away towards the end of the ride, and since to be gone since.

Makes me think there is a way the motor "likes" be used, and it fits they way I ride it, and riding it differently results in more noises. Just speculations tho.

I find the range fitting for what I do. Most rides are 2-3 hours, mostly doing runs in the woods, so climbs are mostly double fire rode. Can easily do 10 runs if I stay in middle mode, at which point I get tired myself. Still would be happy to have the range extender available just in case.

And here it is

 

[gbla]

If anyone is running the 5dev cranks could you please let me know what the model/partnumber says on the back of the crank arms?

 

[EnduroIntern]

Question for over strockers. Specially 9.7 fox float.
Any clearance issues on the Large frame with removing one or both spacers?
Is switching the mino link to high required?

 

[Jazzii]

Question for over strockers. Specially 9.7 fox float.
Any clearance issues on the Large frame with removing one or both spacers?
Is switching the mino link to high required?

9.5 M size, Float X 65mm stroke without any probs