Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

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Bjeast said:
For what it's worth (and it's probably not much), my bike was starting to rattle a bit at the back. I checked the rear and it was loose! Rookie mistake, I know. :)
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You Win! My rear wheel "Switch lever" axel bolt wasn't quite tight enough. It is supposed to be torqued to 10NM. It needed to be tightened one full revolution. Now the bike is nice and quiet. Thank You!
 
Well, if you ever wondered how the Fuel EXe rides with the motor off, I did a field experiment today. Forgot to charge the battery and got to the trailhead with 6% battery. I figured, since I was already there, I might as well ride. First I had the motor off but the assist on. After about 5 miles of single track, the battery went from 6% to 5% just from the display being on. Then I turned the bike completely off, saving the 5% for the last climb back up to the parking lot. The bike has very minimal resistance in either mode But it felt a bit better when the bike was on (display on) then when turned completely off but it was not a huge difference. When I ride the same trail on my 22 Stumpjumper, my avg speed is 8.5 m/hr at 1 hr 35 minutes. Today, on my EXe without the motor, it took me 1 hr 50’ at 7.6 m/hr. Weight difference between the 2 bikes is probably 13-14 pounds. Stumpy is a Pro, EXe is 9.8XT.
it’s nice to know that it pedals so well over technical single track. Will be able to always get home.
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wheelsx2 said:
I tried a Mara Pro. I had a Mara on the Ripley too, and it was very nice. The stupid long piggy back on the pro hits the downtime, so no go.
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Thank you for this ... I was considering a Mara Pro (awesome shock) but had a feeling the long piggy back might hit the downtube. Bummer.
 
Yesterday was the first ride to completely rinse the range extender. 10 miles up 2100', then back down the same way. In 70% ECO and 30% Trail I got 1500' of vert and 7 miles before the change over. I was in Trail at the time and the power cuts off for a few seconds before coming back on the main battery. After it came back on the motor became much more noisy with the same sounds as the low power flutter that is common. The motor was under constant load for over an hour and half at that point. I felt the motor and it was warm to the touch, not hot. All down hill on the way back and will have to go try it today to see if it fixed itself or I have a problem. First time in ten months if have had any sort of noise.

Curious if the torque sensor has trouble with the change over. It felt like the clutch went haywire afterwards.
 
Swingset said:
Yesterday was the first ride to completely rinse the range extender. 10 miles up 2100', then back down the same way. In 70% ECO and 30% Trail I got 1500' of vert and 7 miles before the change over. I was in Trail at the time and the power cuts off for a few seconds before coming back on the main battery. After it came back on the motor became much more noisy with the same sounds as the low power flutter that is common. The motor was under constant load for over an hour and half at that point. I felt the motor and it was warm to the touch, not hot. All down hill on the way back and will have to go try it today to see if it fixed itself or I have a problem. First time in ten months if have had any sort of noise.

Curious if the torque sensor has trouble with the change over. It felt like the clutch went haywire afterwards.
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I've had issues with the torque sensor on the change over between range extender and main battery, in my case it started to significantly under measure my power input (ie it said I was putting in 60w,when in reality I was doing 200+w) and as a result significantly reduce the motor output.

Switching the motor off and on again cured it instantly.
 
Has anyone managed to fit a steel chainring yet? I've been through 2 x cheese ones in 9 months and would much rather a steel one if possible. UK based. Many thanks!
 
playboater15 said:
Has anyone managed to fit a steel chainring yet? I've been through 2 x cheese ones in 9 months and would much rather a steel one if possible. UK based. Many thanks!
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if you run SRAM, this may work for you:
# H391187-01

otherwise if you get the 2pc spider, a steel 104bcd should fit up fine!
Trek-Fuel-EXe-8-GX-AXS-906366.jpg
 
So, I wasn’t really looking to upgrade my shock. But, I stumbled upon a brand new, unused 2024 Fox Float X2, with Kashima, and a climb switch. The price was so good, I couldn’t resist. I was hesitant to buy it, because I knew Trek wouldn’t have any setup guides for this shock. So, I looked on the FOX site and the setup guide is pretty strait forward. It’s really just based off how much air pressure you need to get the appropriate sag measurement. So, that should be a good starting point. I bought it, so just waiting for delivery. Is anyone out there running this shock on their EXe?
 
Crank Removal. So, I removed my cranks to tighten the lock ring. Then, when I reset the cranks and went for a ride, TQ is running rough as. Also, it's not showing rider input for power, just what the motor is delivering which is less than normal. Anyone experience similar. ?🧐
 
Jack of All Trails said:
Crank Removal. So, I removed my cranks to tighten the lock ring. Then, when I reset the cranks and went for a ride, TQ is running rough as. Also, it's not showing rider input for power, just what the motor is delivering which is less than normal. Anyone experience similar. ?🧐
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Did you follow the instructions in the service manual & align the cranks & motor position? If not. It will run roughly for a very short while until the motor software works out you didn't and compensate. Motor should then run as normal.
 
I decided to see if the sicomtbproducts rail mudguard fits.
It does. This is on a Large Exe.
I applied some clear protection tape on the contact areas. Rode it today and only heard it make any noise on some large hits. Mainly just the lower part contacting the chain stay/bb area.

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wheelsx2 said:
I decided to see if the sicomtbproducts rail mudguard fits.
It does. This is on a Large Exe.
I applied some clear protection tape on the contact areas. Rode it today and only heard it make any noise on some large hits. Mainly just the lower part contacting the chain stay/bb area.

View attachment 125822 View attachment 125823 View attachment 125824
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Nice one. I've also had success with this on my EX-e: Full Face Fender, Black

By the way, how is the new e-thirteen Helix crank going? Is the q factor wider than the stock e-thirteen alloy crank? I bought a 155mm one in an effort to stop pedal strikes now that I have mulleted my Ex-e but I have not installed it yet
 
Nugget said:
Nice one. I've also had success with this on my EX-e: Full Face Fender, Black

By the way, how is the new e-thirteen Helix crank going? Is the q factor wider than the stock e-thirteen alloy crank? I bought a 155mm one in an effort to stop pedal strikes now that I have mulleted my Ex-e but I have not installed it yet
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I recently switched to the Forx 155 cranks and I love them. Zero strikes!
 
wheelsx2 said:
I decided to see if the sicomtbproducts rail mudguard fits.
It does. This is on a Large Exe.
I applied some clear protection tape on the contact areas. Rode it today and only heard it make any noise on some large hits. Mainly just the lower part contacting the chain stay/bb ar View attachment 125823
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Hi, just following up re the fit of the Vivid, and its performance. Any clearance issues or contact / rubbing near the lower bridge? Hows the performance now that you have had more time on it? Worth the upgrade? Thanks
 
Nugget said:
By the way, how is the new e-thirteen Helix crank going? Is the q factor wider than the stock e-thirteen alloy crank? I bought a 155mm one in an effort to stop pedal strikes now that I have mulleted my Ex-e but I have not installed it yet
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I've been on those Helix e*spec cranks for a while. Q-factor seems to be the same as the stock alloy cranks. They have not come loose. I went 160mm, maybe fewer pedal strikes but less torque while climbing too.
 
Nugget said:
Nice one. I've also had success with this on my EX-e: Full Face Fender, Black

By the way, how is the new e-thirteen Helix crank going? Is the q factor wider than the stock e-thirteen alloy crank? I bought a 155mm one in an effort to stop pedal strikes now that I have mulleted my Ex-e but I have not installed it yet
Click to expand...

The cranks work well. I mainly wanted to try shorter. Still getting used to that after coming off 175s for years. The Q seems the same as stock.
 
konamac said:
Hi, just following up re the fit of the Vivid, and its performance. Any clearance issues or contact / rubbing near the lower bridge? Hows the performance now that you have had more time on it? Worth the upgrade? Thanks
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No issues with clearance. It is VERY close though. I can only say that I am confident it fits a large size frame.

The biggest thing for me has been getting anywhere near full travel. So far, the Vivid is working better. I was very happy with the Float X on my Ripley and Ripmos. The large air spring of the vivid is helping with getting more travel. I installed a shock wiz over the weekend and am on my first round of tuning. Removed the 1 stock volume reducer, increase air pressure, less rebound and less LSC. I made all those changes and will ride tomorrow morning.

Because I could, I installed the compression adjuster on the stock Float X. In the process, I discovered that it was set to -4 of 10 from the factory. That could be why I was not getting full travel. Too much compression damping. Once the Vivid is Dialed, I may through the Float X back on and see if that was the case.
 
^ Number one, just adding the knob to the Float X does absolutely nothing. Number two, even if the knob did add adjustability, it would have nothing to do with whether your shock bottoms out or not.
 
Canyon Shawn said:
^ Number one, just adding the knob to the Float X does absolutely nothing. Number two, even if the knob did add adjustability, it would have nothing to do with whether your shock bottoms out or not.
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I have heard both ways. Looking at exploded views, it is not clear as fox only shows the view of the elite/factory. There is definitely a keyed shaft under that cover. If a 200 lb rider is not getting over 70% travel, having a lot of compression damping could be an explanation. Won't hurt to throw it back on with the same pressure as before and see of backing off whatever that shaft is connected to makes any difference.
 
wheelsx2 said:
If a 200 lb rider is not getting over 70% travel, having a lot of compression damping could be an explanation.
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That can be true, but I would suggest trying a different approach to tuning- with the vivid too. You should not have any problems getting full travel out of this bike since it's not very progressive at all. I would try this:
  1. With climb switches open and no compression (full CCW) set sag to 30% (18mm of shock stroke)
  2. If you are not getting full travel on the biggest impacts, remove a volume spacer / or go to a smaller volume spacer.
  3. Repeat till you get full travel
  4. If you are getting hard bottom-outs, add a volume spacer or compression damping
  5. THEN add compression damping, to prevent "squatting" when you shift your weight rearwards, or prevent using too much travel when you're pumping the bike.
If you're not getting full travel, it's likely either too much pressure, or too small of volume (in which case remove volume spacer)
 
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Emailsucks98 said:
That can be true, but I would suggest trying a different approach to tuning- with the vivid too. You should not have any problems getting full travel out of this bike since it's not very progressive at all. I would try this:
  1. With climb switches open and no compression (full CCW) set sag to 30% (18mm of shock stroke)
  2. If you are not getting full travel on the biggest impacts, remove a volume spacer / or go to a smaller volume spacer.
  3. Repeat till you get full travel
  4. If you are getting hard bottom-outs, add a volume spacer or compression damping
  5. THEN add compression damping, to prevent "squatting" when you shift your weight rearwards, or prevent using too much travel when you're pumping the bike.
If you're not getting full travel, it's likely either too much pressure, or too small of volume (in which case remove volume spacer)
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Yep. Already did all of that. Not my first rodeo. Been riding full sus since 1995.
 
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