Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[jabar1975]

Has anyone compared new Levo SL to Trek EXe?
I'm starting to get interested these "light" eMtb's and levo SL is clearly my number one because i have currently Levo Comp and i like it very much.

BUT i want check other options also. Trek's removable battery is a plus. And that TQ motor is very interesting.
So, convince me why Trek would be a better option?

Both, Spesh and Trek are represented my local LBS.

Is TQ motor reliable, is there any downsides?

Did a ride with guy on new SL, over 700km on the clock in spesh - it is no more so quiet as it was at the beginning - super annoying sound to me (but maybe it is just this one bike), there was also one in Kenevo SL (old motor) that was noisy like hell.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Compared to an EXe, the new SL is noisy AF.

 

[Decolocsta]

95% battery used.
Stock Settings.

I‘m impressed.

 

[Piccirilli]

The Fuel EXe continues to exceed my expectations. I recently got addicted to DH and dirt jumping. I started running bigger stuff, and became concerned about catastrophic frame failure. And I'm no lightweight at 185lbs. So I ran it by my local Trek store manager, expecting to start looking for another burlier bike. He said the EXe is well suited (with the exception of crashing) for any of the trails and jumps at my local Kanuga Bike park. FYI, there are double black diamond DH runs and HUGE advanced jumps here. I also met Matt Driscoll, who came in 12th in the nationals at Rock Creek. Matt practices his DH runs on an EXe. Needless to say, the Exe is best bike I've ever owned, and continues to perform with amazing capability in cross country, downhill, and even dirt jumping.

Crazy wildlife story about how quiet this bike really is: One day as I was smoking up a very steep incline in full power mode, there was a cute woman trail runner ahead , who obviously thought no one was around and needed to pee. So when she made it to the top of the climb, she immediately dropped her shorts and squated, while still facing uphill. I was literally right behind and below her at this point, in 'stealth mode'. The scenery was magnificent. Then we both laughed and parted ways.
People still ask me how much I love my EXe. See below.

 

[Swingset]

Please tell me that bike has a seat post in it.

I think the rear seat stay at the rear pivot is where the fuse is. Bike is probably fine until you make a mistake and case it. Years ago I knew a guy who broke everything he touched. He was maybe 175lbs. Finally rode with him and he was just a hammer on the bike. No timing and no finesse. He was the same on a snowboard and broke his share of them as well.

 

[Piccirilli]

Please tell me that bike has a seat post in it.

I think the rear seat stay at the rear pivot is where the fuse is. Bike is probably fine until you make a mistake and case it. Years ago I knew a guy who broke everything he touched. He was maybe 175lbs. Finally rode with him and he was just a hammer on the bike. No timing and no finesse. He was the same on a snowboard and broke his share of them as well.

Riding recklessly will eventually destroy any bike. Yet I've cased my EXe on blue jumps many times, rear shock taking most of the hit, with no issues. The frame is not as fragile as one would think, and Trek backs up that claim.

 

[Jack of All Trails]

Crank Removal. Hi again, I have the 9.7 with E*thirteen E*spec crank kit. I want to remove the cranks, give it a clean, tighten the lock ring from 30nm to the recommended 50nm etc. I searched online for the correct tools, but couldn't get a straight answer. Has anyone removed their E*thirteen E*spec alloy cranks and lock ring and what tools do you need. Much appreciated any guidance.

Replying to myself - useful info to share from E*thirteen tech support :
Thanks for reaching out to us and for your question. Trek Fuel EXe Models are currently coming outfitted with both our Alloy Plus Level Cranksets and and our Carbon Race Level Cranks. The crank arms which came stock on your bike will be specific to the build level.

• Our E*Spec Race Carbon Cranks have a built in self extractor and can be removed by loosening the inner 8mm Bolt. The crank is press fit onto the spindle using 40 Nm force. This means that considerable force will need to be used when loosening the bolt of the self-extracting system. This is normal. Using the 8mm hex key turn counter-clockwise until the bolt is fully loose. Once the 8mm hex bolt is fully loose the crank arm can be removed.

• Alternatively our E*Spec Plus Crank Arms will require a traditional ISIS crank arm puller tool for removal. We recommend the Park Tool CCP-44. Ive posted the related crank users manual below for reference.

https://support.ethirteen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360042100611-e-spec-crankset-user-manual

The chainring lockring in this case will be specd by the motor manufacturer and will likely use a BB-UN55 bottom bracket tool for install/removal, additionally a protective spacer may be needed for install and may have been included with your bike/owners manual. I have attached a link to the Fuel EXe Owners Manual below for reference if needed.

https://retailerassetsprd.blob.core...=UogJIteiFltPX66np2M0a3esSu1uZzABYHTFInUlT/o=

 

[MikeP]

Riding recklessly will eventually destroy any bike. Yet I've cased my EXe on blue jumps many times, rear shock taking most of the hit, with no issues. The frame is not as fragile as one would think, and Trek backs up that claim.

I think Mr Swingset might have seen this video (of a guy who lives a bit west of me):
Possibly a one-off, and as you say, Trek stood behind the warranty.

 

[Ribinrobin]

I think Mr Swingset might have seen this video (of a guy who lives a bit west of me):
Possibly a one-off, and as you say, Trek stood behind the warranty.

I follow this guy, great places he rides. He has a canyon torque ON too now, seems to be loving it. He did mention he did a big case to cause the failure, he rides his bikes hard.

 

[jabar1975]

Did anyone successfully change chainring to 30teeth?
I have impression it would help to keep higher cadency at low speed

 

[wheelsx2]

Did anyone successfully change chainring to 30teeth?
I have impression it would help to keep higher cadency at low speed

Direct Mount Chainrings for Trek TQ E-Bike Motor

Wolf Tooth Direct Mount Chainrings for Trek TQ E-Bike Motors are compatible with all Boost and Super Boost bikes that use the Trek TQ Motor. This brings a lightweight chainring with patented Drop-Stop® technology to e-bike chainrings for the first time. Direct Mount Chainrings for Trek TQ E-Bike...

www.wolftoothcomponents.com

 

[pat1032]

Anyone have a bike rack that hangs their fuel exe vertically? Is that ok to do that? The garage is accumulating some bikes and we are thinking getting a rack for better storage, any recommendations is appreciated.

 

[Swingset]

Highly recommend Steadyrack.

 

[Emailsucks98]

Anyone have a bike rack that hangs their fuel exe vertically? Is that ok to do that? The garage is accumulating some bikes and we are thinking getting a rack for better storage, any recommendations is appreciated.

We’ve got (2) velocirax tilt& pivots and are super happy with them. Freed up a lot of space and the bikes don’t bang into each other

 

[Rikster]

After a couple of nice years on a Rail 9.8 2020 wich I upgraded with GX-AXS and first SRAM G2-rsc and then Code-rsc's it was time for a nice EXe-8.
On the Rail I mostly ride in Eco or Tour. 80% of my rides are just over the border in Germany and Belgium and a little further away in France and off course the Alps. So I thought the EXe would suit me perfect. Was lucky to get to test a EXe-9.7 for a long weekend when my Bosch engine broke-down (code 500, so a dead one....) for a trip planned to Luxembourg. Pretty quick I noticed this test bike was gonna cost me mony, haha.

So after the summer ordered myself a nice one when the alu-version came out and the bike became a bit better affordable and also because I wanted a alu-bike again instead of a carbon. Don't ask me why, I can't explain .

First had my sights set on the Fuel EXe-8 with the AXS-Transmission, but all my analog bikes have the normal AXS so opted for a 8-XT instead in the collor Satin Mercury.

Directly swapped out some parts;
XT drive-train for GX-AXS with a XO1 cassette
Deore brakes for Sram Code RSC (frontbrake hose still needs to be shortened)
Bontrager XR5 for Maxxis Assegai and Aggressor in 2.5WT with Cushcore insert

On the list for the near future is an areshaft upgrade to 160mm.

This weekend first ride planned in Germany - Wuppertal area

 

[Cell4soul]

Anyone have a bike rack that hangs their fuel exe vertically? Is that ok to do that? The garage is accumulating some bikes and we are thinking getting a rack for better storage, any recommendations is appreciated.

I built my own. I can move the vertical mounts anywhere along the unistrut. This allows my to space the bikes any distance apart that I want. My heavier bikes have the rear wheel on the ground to support the weight of the bike. My gravel bikes are hanging by the front wheels.

 

[wizard604]

May be a dumb question but is the lock ring for the chainring right (cw)or left hand (CCW) threaded? I was going to remove the lock ring and chainring to clean and regrease everything. Also is a chain whip needed to keep the spindle from spinning

 

[senergy]

Anyone have a bike rack that hangs their fuel exe vertically? Is that ok to do that? The garage is accumulating some bikes and we are thinking getting a rack for better storage, any recommendations is appreciated.

got a few steadyracks, almost all of different models. I went with the Steady Rack E-Bike Rack, not for the weight limits but for the fender clearance.

 

[Decolocsta]

May be a dumb question but is the lock ring for the chainring right (cw)or left hand (CCW) threaded? I was going to remove the lock ring and chainring to clean and regrease everything. Also is a chain whip needed to keep the spindle from spinning

CCW

 

[mrhaboobi]

Hey Guys

Looking at a ebike. currently on a trek slash and mainly because the shape / geo is comfortable for my back. im 48, not going too crazy, use the bike at the park on blue trails, and want to explore other places but hey im a bit lazy ( A.k.a unfit ) so looking at an ebike to assist a bit.

Exe looks like a good option but im particular interested to know if anyone has installed the adjustable cups to create a slacker headset and also increased the fork to 160 . The Exe in the shops is a bit upright for me, the rail was a nicer feel but is a heavy beast. so im looking for something that slots in around the trek slash shape ( 2022 model ).

Anyone modified their exe to get a slacker setup, and even better compared that to a slash? wondering if a 160 fork and mullet rear gets closer to the shape of a slash. really very interested to hear any thoughts. trying to decide on alloy with the adjustable cups or carbon with just the 160 and mullet. trying to avoid going to a rail but i do love my slash..

also any heavier riders on a exe ( 115KG) .. how does the battery handle the extra weight? will want to travel with the bike so often might be run with just a range extender and not the battery as planes wont take the battery here, My wife is looking at an exe ( probably carbon ) but also wants to slacken the ride a bit but shes alot lighter Im about 181/182 cm, riding a large slash with some 35MM rise bars. feels really comfortable. looking to replicate it with an ebike


Cheers

 

[Scarboroguy]

The 9.5 is micro spline not HG. FWIW I just changed my 9.5 wheels to Line Pro 30s that were setup for microspline (off Pinkbike) and everything fit seamlessly.

My recently purchased 9.5 came with a Sunrace cassette and a HG drive/spline. I had planned to swap my SLX cassette but not possible. This spec. change will fall under Treks disclaimer of reserving the right for substitutions due to shortages

 

[Scarboroguy]

I believe all the EXe-ISIS cranks have extractors built in. So you should only need a big hex key and a torque wrench. (be sure its a torque wrench that also works in LEFT HAND threads)

Won't the ranks just slide off with the retaining bolt removed ? Also is the lock ring bolt Left hand thread?

 

[Swingset]

Hey Guys

Looking at a ebike. currently on a trek slash and mainly because the shape / geo is comfortable for my back. im 48, not going too crazy, use the bike at the park on blue trails, and want to explore other places but hey im a bit lazy ( A.k.a unfit ) so looking at an ebike to assist a bit.

Exe looks like a good option but im particular interested to know if anyone has installed the adjustable cups to create a slacker headset and also increased the fork to 160 . The Exe in the shops is a bit upright for me, the rail was a nicer feel but is a heavy beast. so im looking for something that slots in around the trek slash shape ( 2022 model ).

Anyone modified their exe to get a slacker setup, and even better compared that to a slash? wondering if a 160 fork and mullet rear gets closer to the shape of a slash. really very interested to hear any thoughts. trying to decide on alloy with the adjustable cups or carbon with just the 160 and mullet. trying to avoid going to a rail but i do love my slash..

also any heavier riders on a exe ( 115KG) .. how does the battery handle the extra weight? will want to travel with the bike so often might be run with just a range extender and not the battery as planes wont take the battery here, My wife is looking at an exe ( probably carbon ) but also wants to slacken the ride a bit but shes alot lighter Im about 181/182 cm, riding a large slash with some 35MM rise bars. feels really comfortable. looking to replicate it with an ebike


Cheers

I put on a Fox Factory 38 with 160mm- that is a very nice upgrade from the 36 on the 9.7. As for battery, I am just a hair lighter than you. There is wide opinion on range and use. I ride a bunch in ECO, some in Trail, and rarely in Boost. In the lower setting you can go a long way if you want.

These are very capable bikes.

 

[DugT]

I'm getting a new weird sound. It is a brief clunk that seems to be coming from the bottom bracket. It only occurs when I'm pedalling fast and hard like at the begging of an uphill. It happens randomly, not in synch with pedalling. Any guesses what that could be? It's not the chain or the crank arms.

 

[wheelsx2]

I'm getting a new weird sound. It is a brief clunk that seems to be coming from the bottom bracket. It only occurs when I'm pedalling fast and hard like at the begging of an uphill. It happens randomly, not in synch with pedalling. Any guesses what that could be? It's not the chain or the crank arms.

Possibly check the toque on the motor bolts. 20NM.
If it's never been done, check the compensation screws. Mine were off by quite a bit from the factory.

 

[Swingset]

A theory. Recently had a new noise start. Turns out it was in a single gear on the cassette. It was the one where it goes to single cogs. The lock ring was not as tight as it should be. Took everything off, cleaned it and re tightened and has seemed to go away

 

[Bjeast]

For what it's worth (and it's probably not much), my bike was starting to rattle a bit at the back. I checked the rear and it was loose! Rookie mistake, I know.

 

[DugT]

Possibly check the toque on the motor bolts. 20NM.
If it's never been done, check the compensation screws. Mine were off by quite a bit from the factory.

There was an occasional squeak from the bottom bracket. Adjusting the compensations screws solved that problem. I torqued the bolts to 20NM at the time but I will check them again. This sound is much different than the loose motor squeak.

 

[DugT]

I'll check the cassette lock ring and the rear heel attachment and rear bearing tightness.

 

[steveL]

I'm having a problem where the power output indicated is lower than the actual output. I am basing this on my HR, perceived effort and previous rides on the same hill. It seems to get " stuck" in the 40 to 60 watt range. In one case it seemed to self correct and went back to a believable 120- 140 watt range( HR was reduced). In the second event I had to turn the bike off twice to get back to a "normal" power output. The first time this happened I noticed it because I felt like I was riding in sand, so it is a noticeable event by the feel and then when I checked power output it verified the feeling.

It also may have become more surgy - not sure about that.

I ride at a reasonable cadence; 75- 100 rpm, average cadence at the end of the ride will normally be in the 80's. I am an experienced rider with a background in road and MTB racing.

I understand that this isn't a calibrated power meter.

I did find one other post that seemed to have a similar event, I believe that a software update fixed that one. My software all got updated last week. Anyone else experience this or have "informed" thoughts.

Thanks,

Steve