Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

Emailsucks98 said:
Cable rattle won't shouldn't be an issue. There is a plastic cable guide plate that is mechanically fastened to the upper/inside of the top tube, and a second guide piece that connects to the motor. I have to say, it's by for the best internal cable routing solution I've seen. I swapped out my dropper post cable and it was easier than most non-eBikes. Trek did great here!

Far as the holes for battery holes, I'd probably just put electrical tape over the upper hole, and then the lower one you'll want to have in place to secure the lower cover. Someone here suggested having a spare lower battery bracket to secure that bolt/plate.
Click to expand...
There is supposed to be a clip on the inside of the battery cover (bottom plate) that can be used to reattach the plate without the battery inside. The bolt screws into the clip then. Mine was missing However.
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
DBSwiss said:
There is supposed to be a clip on the inside of the battery cover (bottom plate) that can be used to reattach the plate without the battery inside. The bolt screws into the clip then. Mine was missing However.
Click to expand...
Mine was missing as well.
 
Bjeast said:
Hey all. I know that going too long on the front of the EXe voids the warranty, but does going over on the stroke of the rear shock also void the warranty (assuming clearances are okay)?
Click to expand...
Almost certainly. I would always assume that any manufacturer will tell you the frame has been tested using the shock specs (stroke and eye-to-eye) listed, and use of a non-standard shock will void the warranty. That said, you could always message Trek and ask.
 
CJaMTB said:
Almost certainly. I would always assume that any manufacturer will tell you the frame has been tested using the shock specs (stroke and eye-to-eye) listed, and use of a non-standard shock will void the warranty. That said, you could always message Trek and ask.
Click to expand...
This is correct. I spoke with Trek corporate about this last week actually. Technically it's untested and could cause a warranty issue. But their warranty process is case by case looking at the details of what happened. So if the extra stroke contributed to the warranty-related issue somehow, it would be problematic. If totally unrelated issue you should be fine.
 
DBSwiss said:
There is supposed to be a clip on the inside of the battery cover (bottom plate) that can be used to reattach the plate without the battery inside. The bolt screws into the clip then. Mine was missing However.
Click to expand...
Here's some pics of the clip if it helps anyone.
Clip01.jpg
Clip02.jpg
Clip03.jpg
Clip04.jpg
Clip05.jpg
 
Bjeast said:
Thanks for this you guys! Given the potential problems, then, I think I'll stick with 140.
Click to expand...
If the manufacturer is smart they will list all the requirements up front as 'outs'. On a high level they list total vehicle weight of 300lbs, a '160' fork (no axle to crown height given, which would have been the smart way to spec it) and 205-60 rear shock. Clearly hacking the software or dicking with the motor is an implied no-no.

Conversely, all the torque specs in the manual appear to be negotiable currently (lock ring and lower shock bolt to name two) so maybe they don't have quite the handle on their side either.

The slightly longer stroke does get the expensive parts lower to the ground though by ~5mm. Little bit of trade though. longer fork moves things up, longer stroke shock moves things down. A bit of a wash.
 
Swingset said:
On a high level they list total vehicle weight of 300lbs, a '160' fork (no axle to crown height given, which would have been the smart way to spec it) and 205-60 rear shock.
Click to expand...
They do specify a max axle to crown, its on the last page of the service manual
1668784242316.png
 
I’ve mainly been riding around dusk and haven’t had too many opportunities for photos. But a lot of great riding and upgrades have been been happening! Conditions have been dry & cold here. I think the cold temps reduce range. I did one ride that was 14 miles, 2800’, mix of trail and Boost (with max boost settings) that killed the battery. But several other rides in the 3300-3600’ range, mostly trail, with 20% left at the end. Overall I’m very happy with the bike especially now that I’m getting the suspension dialed in.

Since my original build:
Zeb 160 Ultimate, 2023, 2 tokens, slik graphics
Ohlins TTX1 rear shock, 205x62.5mm
OneUp 210mm dropper post
Chromag Lyft saddle (stolen from my other bike)
Jank components pump holder

65BFC0B8-8A2F-42C9-97ED-6808AC979123.jpeg 6B17BD6F-6AA8-4733-AC77-02523C9461C5.jpeg
 
What's the right headset for the EXE?

Can't find it in the manual, but is it IS41/28.6 - IS52/40 ?

​

 
Took delivery of the bike yesterday, and rode it today in Squamish. Overall, I am very happy with the bike. I wouldn’t mind a burlier front fork, but the lyrik is fine, and I’m looking forward to getting the travel upped to 160. I did bottom out the fork once on a compression and at the bottom of a roll, but that’s probably because I had too low psi in the fork.

Did a fair bit of climbing, and rode it in Eco mode. Oh, and I am very glad I was able to trade out the stock combination carbon bar/stem. The shorter reach on the large size bike I bought feels better than the stock set up. Feels good!

47AF938A-B4E8-4254-9714-1B2E3114AF2E.jpeg


453052A6-DDA5-4DAE-8E91-7B28BC3A7DAE.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I have done all my baseline rides at least once or twice now. At the settings I am using I have plenty of range. The power is surprising me as well. I don't use boost much but when I do its more than enough.

I have the Fox suspension from the 9.7 and its stroked. The 150mm Rhythm comes with three volume spacers. At 160mm I took out two and upped the pressure to what is still 10 psi below what they recommend. Sag is right and now the fork is working much better. It would take a huck to flat to get full travel still. I get the impression the fork needs to break in a bit as well.

Its a helluva bike. Numbers on a spec sheet do not do justice to it.
 
I've been hunting a creak on my bike, which ended up being the hub driver. But my first assumption was a loose motor lockring which a lot of people have mentioned.

So first observation is that the lockring itself says 30nm torque, but the trek service manual say 50nm.

Also, the service manual has this somewhat ominous warning about using a protective sleeve. None was included with my bike- Did any of you get one?


sleeve.JPG
 
Last edited:
No battery removed clip nut or BB sleeve for me. I was rather surprised at how little I did get. A charger, a receipt, and a quick start manual. My Decoy came with an amazing assortment of tools, manuals, suspension tokens, and a pump.

Starting a list of parts needed- thanks
 
Emailsucks98 said:
I've been hunting a creak on my bike, which ended up being the hub driver. But my first assumption was a loose motor lockring which a lot of people have mentioned.

So first observation is that the lockring itself says 30nm torque, but the trek service manual say 50nm.

Also, the service manual has this somewhat ominous warning about using a protective sleeve. None was included with my bike- Did any of you get one?


View attachment 101852
Click to expand...

You solved the creaking issue on yours? I still have it on mine even after lubing and torquing everything to spec.

When you say hub driver, you referring to the rear hub? You tightened the lockring to the cassette? I did that too but for me it's not coming from back there.

I didn't get a protective sleeve either. I know a lot of Trek dealers (whether it's Trek themselves or partner LBS), usually don't give all the "extras" for some reason unless you ask them.

Few things to check that are included or installed when taking delivery:
  • Torque Cap Adapters: If you have a Lyrik fork, make sure they installed the included torque cap adapters on the fork. I saw it was missing on mine when I took delivery and asked them to look for it and install it. A lot of LBS don't know that this is new for the '23 model year Rockshox forks.
  • RockShox Bottomless Tokens: Should have come with two bottomless tokens not installed (unless your LSB installed it in the fork).
  • TQ Charger and TQ Owner's Manual (you can download electronic version so no big deal if not included)
  • Side Load Water Bottle Cage (this is obvious)
  • Upper downtube armor (I think this is already factory installed)
  • Clip attached to inside of the lower battery cover (some reported this missing, but this should be there from factory)
  • Suspension Pump (I got one included during delivery and I "think" one comes in the box)
  • Tubeless Tire Sealant (LSB supposed to put tire sealant, I doubt your LSB will miss this step)
 
KevinNY said:
You solved the creaking issue on yours? I still have it on mine even after lubing and torquing everything to spec.
Click to expand...
I've tracked it down to my Chris King rear hub, likely the microspline hub driver I installed when I swapped the wheels over from my previous bike. I've cleaned and lubed the hub guts, cassette & axle, swapped the wheel between bikes to confirm it was indeed the wheel. At least I know it's NOT the frame!
 
Emailsucks98 said:
I've tracked it down to my Chris King rear hub, likely the microspline hub driver I installed when I swapped the wheels over from my previous bike. I've cleaned and lubed the hub guts, cassette & axle, swapped the wheel between bikes to confirm it was indeed the wheel. At least I know it's NOT the frame!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, good to know. I'll swap the stock wheels with another set of wheels that I know doesn't creak at all to see if it makes a difference. I suspect my creaking is from the frame but hard to tell unless I am super short and have my ears on the frame LOL. :)
 
Forgot to mention my one big complaint with this bike. I have a Timber bell that is otherwise brilliant in that you can turn it on and off when you want. It hangs down below the handle bar and the lack of any steering stop on the bike means when the bars get away from you that bell goes zinging over the top/tube. As it stands now it barely clears but its scary.

Kind of like the Acros headset on my Decoy that has a limiter on it.
 
KevinNY said:
You solved the creaking issue on yours? I still have it on mine even after lubing and torquing everything to spec.

When you say hub driver, you referring to the rear hub? You tightened the lockring to the cassette? I did that too but for me it's not coming from back there.

I didn't get a protective sleeve either. I know a lot of Trek dealers (whether it's Trek themselves or partner LBS), usually don't give all the "extras" for some reason unless you ask them.

Few things to check that are included or installed when taking delivery:
  • Torque Cap Adapters: If you have a Lyrik fork, make sure they installed the included torque cap adapters on the fork. I saw it was missing on mine when I took delivery and asked them to look for it and install it. A lot of LBS don't know that this is new for the '23 model year Rockshox forks.
  • RockShox Bottomless Tokens: Should have come with two bottomless tokens not installed (unless your LSB installed it in the fork).
  • TQ Charger and TQ Owner's Manual (you can download electronic version so no big deal if not included)
  • Side Load Water Bottle Cage (this is obvious)
  • Upper downtube armor (I think this is already factory installed)
  • Clip attached to inside of the lower battery cover (some reported this missing, but this should be there from factory)
  • Suspension Pump (I got one included during delivery and I "think" one comes in the box)
  • Tubeless Tire Sealant (LSB supposed to put tire sealant, I doubt your LSB will miss this step)
Click to expand...
My 9.7 came with:
  • TQ Charger and TQ Owner's Manual
  • Side Load Water Bottle Cage (installed)
  • Lower & Upper downtube armor (Upper in box not installed)
  • Clip attached to inside of the lower battery cover
  • Tubeless Tire Sealant (applied when I went to get the bike)
  • Bell and reflectors for rims (not installed)
  • Blue ring (which might be that protective sleeve for lockring installation)
Suspension Pump would have been nice and haven't heard anyone else mention it, might have been bonus for you.
Would have been nice, because I need to get one.
 
My 9.5 came without upper downtube armor. Is that only with the more expensive models, or do I have to ask the Lbs?
 
Swingset said:
No battery removed clip nut or BB sleeve for me. I was rather surprised at how little I did get. A charger, a receipt, and a quick start manual. My Decoy came with an amazing assortment of tools, manuals, suspension tokens, and a pump.

Starting a list of parts needed- thanks
Click to expand...
I got a few more parts 😃. I got some spacers for the shock and the armor for the upper down tube. the box also included the reflectors I asked them to remove from the bike 😂.
 
Balboa said:
My 9.5 came without upper downtube armor. Is that only with the more expensive models, or do I have to ask the Lbs?
Click to expand...
My 9.5 came with the upper down tube armour,and the little tube thing to protect the seal on the motor,unfortunately I threw the little seal protector thing out thinking it was just some excess packaging, it was only when I read the tq manual later that I realised it was semi useful.
 
Highly recommend taking a piece of frame protector type tape and covering the display. Unfortunately my Bontrager BITS tool slipped out of my gloves and dropped about 1" onto the edge of the display 🤬 Also the other edge of the display has a slight space between it and the frame, and it probably a prime spot for water to get in, this should fix that too.
IMG_9473.jpg
IMG_9478.jpg
 
I'm not an engineer but I don't think tape is thick enough to protect the glass in that situation. It's great that the display still works, at least so far.
 
DugT said:
I'm not an engineer but I don't think tape is thick enough to protect the glass in that situation. It's great that the display still works, at least so far.
Click to expand...
since I've got nothing much to loose, I just tried recreating it by dropping it again - but w the tape on - and no problem. Truth be told, I do have two layers of tape now. The problem is that sharp hard metal edge of the tool and the glass edge that's the problem, so the thick vinyl tape does help.
 
How to get a replacement upper shock bolt? This is for the 9.8 RockShox Super Deluxe Select+ RT. Trek says they are backordered and they don't know when they will get more. Is this a Trek frame part or a RockShox part? I'm wondering if I should try to get the bolt from Rockshox? It is part 1 in the picture. My LBS broke mine on November 3 so I am starting to get concerned, disappointed, annoyed, angry.....etc.

1669075763948.png
 
Its a trek part. I am looking for similar for my Rail, not only are they hard to find they are also pretty expensive for what they are IMO
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    668K
    Messages
    40,772
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top