The cranks rotate backwards, but the chain doesn’t move ...

lubing your cassette will just attract more dirt to the cassette.
so long as the chain is looked after (cleaned) and lubricated properly (which doesn't actually mean tons of lube) the lubed chain will run on the sprockets and chainring without incresasing wear.
This shouldn't really need explaining. But... well... y'know ;)
A wet lube sure will attract dust to any component. I have exclusively used dry lube for about 8-10 years now with great success, first on motorcycles and now on the mtb also. The lube leaves a film which once dry there is little to no tackiness to attract dust.
 
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what's difficult about putting an allen key in a chainring bolt and then removing it less than a minute later?
gotta be easier than flipping the bike upside down. Especially if you have displays/garmin/lights/levers/switches etc. on your bars to have to think about when you lay it on it's bars.
Allen key method I prepared earlier.

Takes a matter of seconds


Why? it does no harm
Can anyone provide scientific evidence that this in fact does no harm? Seem to remember reading somewhere not to do that.
 
If it did harm so would walking the bike backwards.

What sort of harm do you "think" you read about?
 
Sam Pilgrim had a video showing a limited edition "Eeb It" crankstick, i got a large and small and the small works perfect on my Norco Range. E-Bike Tool Archive | CrankStick

I had to use a Reship service to get it shipped to Australia was the only downside so took longer to arrive.

Before that i used to just use a cut down allen key wrapped in some tape.

as long as the bike is off and either using the allen key method or a crankstick and making the chain go backwards it won't do anything bad to the motor etc.
 
The allen key really works fine. It's what I've been using since I heard about it and no problems. As an aside, I see the way it functions as a benefit when riding very technical trails there's the occasional need to ratchet the pedals backwards and it's nice not to have to worry about the chain going haywire and getting jammed up or jumping because of reverse movement.
 
I use wet lube and then wipe the chain. Then use dry lube and leave to dry.
Maybe teaching grandma to suck eggs? regardless ......Re lifting the bike onto a bike stand or into the back of a van/car it is worth experimenting on your specific bike which are the best points on the frame to use....the key thing being, the lower the better/easier and achieving a balance.
Typically the seat stay at the back of the bike and a point under the down tube level with that, gives you not only the best leverage but also enables the bike to be lifted to a reasonable height. If you are using the seat post/dropper post as the attachment point on a bike stand, the easiest method is to first lift the front wheel onto a box or chair so you can then just lift the rear of the bike to the bike stand clamp, leaving one hand free to secure the clamp...obviously the box or chair can then be removed. If you are clamping to the top tube then you only need to hook the top tube into an open clamp and tighten afterwards. Personally I dislike both methods for an EMTB and use a bike stand that clamps the front fork axle. I can put both my bikes on this stand single handed with no problems.
 
I just use a ziptie when I don't use my workstand.
Allenkey doesn't work as my front sprocket won't allow it.
When it's in my workstand I just lube the chain using the walk mode on my purion
 
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