Technical Article, Part # 3: Suspension, The Ups, The Downs, The Hacks

[Rod B.]

Greetings,

This will be the third installment in a three part series on suspension. This third installment will cover hacking a Fox Float X Performance shock and other small performance tips that you can do to improve your suspension.

You can find read the first two installments via the following links:

Technical Article, Part # 1: Suspension, The Ups, The Downs, The Hacks

Hello, It's been a while since I've posted anything for the Orbea Forum. This will be a three part series on basic suspension and simple to perform suspension hacks that you might find interesting and helpful. If you have a "Simple" to perform suspension hack, post it to this thread so others...

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Technical Article, Part # 2: Suspension, The Ups, The Downs, The Hacks

This is Part Two in a three part series on suspension, tuning, hacks and tips. I've always enjoyed the people on the Orbea forum and I've met a lot of good people and many new ride partners through this forum. If you're looking for new ride partners, I encourage you to reach out to other members...

www.emtbforums.com

The purpose of the three technical articles is to provide information that newer mountain bikers may find useful. More advanced riders may find the information basic. Maybe not, we're never to old to learn new things. Suspension can make or break a bike and we pay a lot of money for modern suspension, let's get the most out of it.

Hack # 1: Fox Float X Performance:
The Float X is available to the public in two forms. They are the Fox "Factory" and "Performance Elite" models. A review of Fox's website reveals there isn't a Performance Float X offered for sale. That's because the Fox Float X is an "O.E.M." shock which Fox makes available only to bicycle manufacturers.

To better understand the hack, it's important to understand the break down between Fox Float X series of shocks:

Fox Factory: The Fox Float X "Factory" comes with a Kashima coating, a separate High and Low Speed compression adjustment and a Rebound adjustment. The Kashima coating looks spiffy, however is it worth $100 extra in performance? The Fox Factory Float X will set you back $599.

Fox Performance Elite: The Fox Float X "Performance Elite" comes with a black stanchion coating, a separate High and Low Speed compression adjustment and a Rebound adjustment. You may be thinking "Hey, what's the difference between the two?" The Performance Elite comes with a murdered out appearance and black stanchions. I personally like my bikes murdered out, so I'm all for the black coating. The Fox Float X Performance Elite will set you back $519. You save $80 by opting for the very cool black coating.

Fox O.E.M. Float X Performance: The Fox Float X "Performance" comes with the same black stanchion coating as the Performance Elite. The Performance model has a High Speed Compression adjustment the same as the Factory and Performance Elite. The Fox Float X Performance has a rebound adjustment the same as the Factory and Performance Elite models. The Float X Performance lacks a Low Speed Compression Adjustment.

You can source a brand new "Take Off" Fox Float X Performance online for $250 and even lower used. The 210mm x 55mm Float X Performance is a direct bolt on replacement for the Rise Float DPS and a worthy upgrade.

You have to ask yourself, ‘Is a low speed compression adjustment worth $269 in extra cost?’ If you are a newer rider, no it’s not.

If you are on a budget, or maybe a newer rider and you wish to upgrade the Float DPS on your Rise or Wild, then the OEM Fox Float X Performance is an excellent choice.

Suppose I told you that you could modify the Float X Performance model and give it a low speed compression adjustment for $30. It will turn the Performance shock into a semi Performance Elite? Who doesn't like saving $239....?

Below is depicted a Fox Float X Performance model. You will note there is a black plastic, non-adjustable cap in place of the blue low speed compression adjustment knob found on the Performance Elite. Beneath the black plastic cap is the low speed compression adjustment shaft. The LSC shaft is capable of providing four clicks of LSC. The bike manufacturer determines which of the four clicks of adjustment the black plastic cap is placed upon.

As a side note, the Performance Elite utilizes a slightly different LSC damper valving which gives the Performance Elite 11 clicks of LSC adjustment.

Fox Float X OEM Performance Fox Float X Performance Elite

You can purchase a replacement low speed compression adjustment knob and detent ball bearing kit via your local bike shop. The kit is referenced under Fox Part # 808-17-470 KIT.

If you don't wish to purchase the blue LSC compression adjustment knob, you can pop off the black plastic cap. Using a pair of pliers, you can adjust LSC using the LSC shaft which protrudes from the shock body. After you are done, the cap can be snapped back into place.

Here is a link to Fox's webpage which details how to perform the upgrade on a Performance Float X.

2022 FLOAT X/DHX LSC Upgrade | Bike Help Center | FOX

www.ridefox.com

You can also find several YouTube videos which detail how to perform the hack.



Important Note: I spoke with Fox and they state this modification will give you four clicks of Low Speed Compression Adjustment. However, after installing the LSC knob, the blue LSC knob will turn 11 clicks. Is Fox telling the truth about the four clicks? At the time I spoke to Fox, the hack was not readily known. Fox may have been attempting to protect the higher cost of the Performance Elite. Maybe Fox is telling the truth, I believe so. Fox states the Performance Elite uses a different LSC damper valving which gives the Performance Elite an actual 11 clicks of adjustment. Theoretically, you could disassemble the Performance OEM shock and replace the LSC valving. However the high cost would not justify the modification.

Hack # 2: Fork Stanchion Wiper Seal Quick Lube
All forks whether Rockshox or Fox, utilize a wiper seal which is located at the top of the fork's lower leg assembly. Underneath the wiper seal is an oil saturated foam ring. The oil saturated foam ring serves the extremely important purpose of lubricating the stanchion.

The purpose of the black rubber fork wiper seal is to wipe debris off of the fork upper as it compresses and rebounds inside the lower leg assembly.

The lower leg assembly on the Fox 36 has two bushings, one at the top of the lower leg assembly and the other at the bottom of the lower leg assembly. The two bushings keep the upper fork assembly in alignment and running straight and true within the lower leg assembly.

The lower leg assembly contains oil which is used to lubricate the foam rings and bushings. Without the oil saturated lubrication that the foam rings provide,, your stanchions and the upper bushing will have severe stiction.

A dry or dirt caked foam ring will cause stanchion scoring if allowed to run dry for an extended period of time. If the upper assembly becomes badly scored, it cannot be fixed and will need to be replaced.

Note, a minor stanchion scratch can be fixed with a slight coating of clear fingernail polish. If the scoring is not fixed, the scoring will carry dirt past the wiper seal and into your fork. The contamination will quickly wear out your fork bushings.

Depicted in the photo below is a fork wiper seal, oil saturated foam O ring and upper bushing.

You want to avoid having your fork's wiper seal and foam ring look like what is pictured in the photo below. Imagine what the upper fork must have looked like. This my friends is really bad “JU JU", don't let this ever happen to your fork.

Fox recommends that a complete seal service be performed every 150 hours of operation. A wiper seal service typically includes replacing the wiper seal, foam ring and lower leg assembly oil.

Rockshox recommends cleaning the foam ring and replacing the lower oil every 50 hours and at 200 hours, perform a full fork service.

I am religious about performing regular wiper seal services on my forks. I do not always replace the rubber wiper seal, but I do replace or clean the foam ring. I also replace the lower leg assembly oil which is used to keep the foam ring saturated with oil.

It’s important to know that over time, the foam ring will become caked with dirt. The dirt prevents the foam ring from lubricating the stanchion. The caked dirt will act like a scouring pad on your stanchion and destroy it. Furthermore, a dry or dirty foam ring will create loads of stiction and cause your fork to run very harsh on the top end. A harsh riding fork will cause hand fatigue. So my friends, Keep your wiper seal foam ring clean and well oiled.

Here is a link to a Fox video detailing how to perform a complete wiper seal service. Most people can perform this service themselves.


Typically, the open damper side of a Fox lower leg has approximately 40cc of Fox Teflon infused suspension oil whereas the air side of the lower leg has 10cc of Fox Gold oil. Which type of oil your fork takes depends on the the fork chamber, i.e. damper side or air side and the model of the fork.

IMPORTANT: At least once a week, or even better, before every ride, you need to turn your bike upside down and let it sit there for 30 minutes. Seriously, you need to do this. Turning your bike upside down will allow the oil in the lower leg assembly to flow down to the upper bushing and also saturate the foam ring with oil.

Okay let's talk about the hack. Occasionally there will come a time where you are going to be doing a critical ride and you want the very best performance from your fork. You want your fork to perform like new and with zero stiction.

It’s possible to saturate the foam O ring externally. This hack will give the fork an immediate like new plushness.

Note, you don't want to do this hack frequently. If done frequently, it will cause excessive build up of debris around the wiper seal. Ideally, you want to turn your bike over and saturate the foam ring before a critical ride. Suppose however, you don’t have time and your fork is riding harsh on the top end from stiction? Here’s what you do:

To perform this hack it takes about ten minutes. You will need three things:

1. You will need the appropriate Fox oil for each lower leg assembly, i.e. Teflon infused oil for the damper side of the lower leg and Gold oil for the air bath side.

2) You will need a plastic pick like what's pictured. They can be easily purchased on Amazon. I keep one in my bicycle tool drawer for shock O ring service. You want to use a plastic pick to prevent scratching the stanchion.

3. You will need an industrial size syringe. These have a larger, non-sharp injection port. You will use the syringe to inject lubricant into the wiper seal.

To perform the service, I load the syringe with the appropriate Fox or Rockshox oil. I place the plastic pick against the stanchion and delicately pry the wiper seal away from the stanchion to form an opening. I inject oil into the opening using the syringe. if you dislodge the steel spring band from the wiper seal it will make prying easier. Note, once you are done with the procedure, place the spring band back in place on the wiper seal.

Once a gap has been opened, place the tip of the syringe in the wiper seal opening you created and inject a very slight amount of oil into the gap. Do not overly saturate with oil. We're talking just a little bit. Do this procedure repeatedly as you work your way totally around the wiper seal. When your done, take a rag soaked with rubbing alcohol and completely clean the oil from the stanchion and wiper seal. If you don't do this, the excess oil will cause a large amount of dirt to accumulate on the wiper seal.

This procedure will give your fork a like new plushness with zero stiction. The remedy will last for a few days. It’s much better to occasionally turn your bike over to lube the foam rings instead. However, if time doesn’t allow for turning the bike over, this hack will serve well and alleviate stiction.

As stated, you don't want to do this hack often. Injecting oil down into wiper seal tends to cause excess dirt build up around the wiper seal.

Hack # 3: Zero stiction quick and fast
Maxima makes a spray product called "SC1." It's a clear silicone spray that is used by bike and auto detailers to make rubber components look like new. The stuff is expensive, but absolutely worth every single penny or Euro. I very much endorse this product.

SC1 can make the rattiest death trap of a bicycle or car look like brand new and unstick any dropper post, fork or rear shock stiction.

I use SC1 on all areas of my bike with one exception. You CANNOT let this stuff get anywhere near your brakes or rotors. When using SC1, I will literally step a short distance away from my bike and spray a small amount onto a rag. I will then return back to the bike and wipe it down. This includes cables, wheels, brake levers, frame, and handelbar. The SC1 silcone spray will attract fine dust, but it really helps keeps mud and other debris from sticking like glue to the bike.

My Specialized Levo has a flat matte carbon finish which allows mud to stick like glue to the frame. Those of you who have a matte carbon frame know what I'm talking about. SC1 prevents debris from sticking like glue. It can be easily washed off post ride. I especially like applying a light coating of SC1 via a rag to the stanchions on my fork, shock and dropper post. This quickly eliminates stiction.

Note, if you do contaminate your brakes with SC1, you will need to perform a perform a brake pad and rotor cleaning service using rubbing alcohol to remove the SC1..

Here is a picture of my bike after a wet Blackstar Canyon ride.

Here's my bike after a wash and a wipe with Maxima SC1

An astute viewer may notice my Levo in this picture is sporting a Fox Float X Performance with a blue Low Speed Compression knob hack. As NASA would state...my Fox X2 suffered a catastrophic air loss and died. It's currently being warrantied by Fox. I'm using my Fox Float X in the mean time.

Hack # 4: Rubber Stair Tread Grip Tape

Okay, this hack has absolutely nothing to do with suspension. I'm tired and throwing it in before I go to bed. Most after market bicycle frame protection brands charge a left testicle for clear frame protection tape. Anybody whose laid their bike down fairly hard on rocky ground, soon realizes the stuff doesn't protect diddly squat.

There's a company called Safe Way Traction, that sells a 1 inch wide x 60 feet length roll of black rubberized, no grit, stair tread traction tape (Item # 3510-1). The tape is extremely durable and tough. A roll of the rubber tape costs about $25 for a 60 foot roll.

I love this stuff and use it on all of my bikes. In the picture above, you can see I applied the rubberized traction tape to my seat and chain stays, down tube and top tube. My shorts tend to rub against the top tube and I'll occasionally rest my trail pack on the top tube. The rubber traction tape prevents the top tube or my stays from being scratched. My bike and the tape look like new despite having over a thousand miles on them.

Unfortunately, the tape isn't currently available in the one inch width on Amazon. A two wide width is available but costs a bit more.

I hope you have found this series on suspension and hacks useful. If you have any questions about suspension, feel free to send me a private message or post a comment.

Be safe,
Rod

 

[PureFM]

Thanks for taking the time to write this series of articles.
Regarding the "hacks".

When using SC1, I will literally step a short distance away from my bike and spray a small amount onto a rag.

This needs to be in bold, IMHO. Not only getting silicone on the brakes will make for some wild rides, it may not mix well with some rubbers or plastics.

If anyone is going to perform Hack #2. All the crud around the top of the seal needs to be removed/cleaned as best as one can before trying to lift the seal edge. Getting that stuff in the seal/oil ring and you should be looking at seal and oil service. I had heard the upside down trick but have personally never tried it. I service seals and oil every 50 hrs of riding.

For frame protection, I use the clear vinyl they use for stone chips on car bonnets etc. I have a 30cm (1 foot) roll thats as wide as a car. Done 3 bikes with it, enough left to do another 3 bikes. Easy to remove and replace. Only down side is cutting the shapes so it looks half pie decent

 

[Rod B.]

Thanks for taking the time to write this series of articles.

Regarding the "hacks".

This needs to be in bold, IMHO. Not only getting silicone on the brakes will make for some wild rides, it may not mix well with some rubbers or plastics.

If anyone is going to perform Hack #2. All the crud around the top of the seal needs to be removed/cleaned as best as one can before trying to lift the seal edge. Getting that stuff in the seal/oil ring and you should be looking at seal and oil service. I had heard the upside down trick but have personally never tried it. I service seals and oil every 50 hrs of riding.

For frame protection, I use the clear vinyl they use for stone chips on car bonnets etc. I have a 30cm (1 foot) roll thats as wide as a car. Done 3 bikes with it, enough left to do another 3 bikes. Easy to remove and replace. Only down side is cutting the shapes so it looks half pie de

Thanks for taking the time to write this series of articles.
Regarding the "hacks".

This needs to be in bold, IMHO. Not only getting silicone on the brakes will make for some wild rides, it may not mix well with some rubbers or plastics.

If anyone is going to perform Hack #2. All the crud around the top of the seal needs to be removed/cleaned as best as one can before trying to lift the seal edge. Getting that stuff in the seal/oil ring and you should be looking at seal and oil service. I had heard the upside down trick but have personally never tried it. I service seals and oil every 50 hrs of riding.

For frame protection, I use the clear vinyl they use for stone chips on car bonnets etc. I have a 30cm (1 foot) roll thats as wide as a car. Done 3 bikes with it, enough left to do another 3 bikes. Easy to remove and replace. Only down side is cutting the shapes so it looks half pie decent

Regarding the "hacks".

This needs to be in bold, IMHO. Not only getting silicone on the brakes will make for some wild rides, it may not mix well with some rubbers or plastics.

If anyone is going to perform Hack #2. All the crud around the top of the seal needs to be removed/cleaned as best as one can before trying to lift the seal edge. Getting that stuff in the seal/oil ring and you should be looking at seal and oil service. I had heard the upside down trick but have personally never tried it. I service seals and oil every 50 hrs of riding.

For frame protection, I use the clear vinyl they use for stone chips on car bonnets etc. I have a 30cm (1 foot) roll thats as wide as a car. Done 3 bikes with it, enough left to do another 3 bikes. Easy to remove and replace. Only down side is cutting the shapes so it looks half pie decent

Thanks for taking the time to write this series of articles.
Regarding the "hacks".

This needs to be in bold, IMHO. Not only getting silicone on the brakes will make for some wild rides, it may not mix well with some rubbers or plastics.

If anyone is going to perform Hack #2. All the crud around the top of the seal needs to be removed/cleaned as best as one can before trying to lift the seal edge. Getting that stuff in the seal/oil ring and you should be looking at seal and oil service. I had heard the upside down trick but have personally never tried it. I service seals and oil every 50 hrs of riding.

For frame protection, I use the clear vinyl they use for stone chips on car bonnets etc. I have a 30cm (1 foot) roll thats as wide as a car. Done 3 bikes with it, enough left to do another 3 bikes. Easy to remove and replace. Only down side is cutting the shapes so it looks half pie decent

PureFM,

I’m glad you enjoyed the article. I agree with you on routinely servicing the wiper seals. I try to do it about every three months or so. My ZEB is especially prone to stiction and a harsh ride if the wiper seal foam rings are not regularly cleaned and lubed.

I regards to the SC1 spray. I’ve been using the spray for over ten years on my bikes. I’ve never had an incident where it’s damaged plastics or rubber. It’s a very light percentage of siliconized spray and not your typical heavier silicone lubrication spray.

Regarding getting the SC1 on your brakes. I did warn to step away from the bike and spray the SC1 onto a rag. I also mentioned in capital letters, underlined and in bold, to not let the spray get on the brakes or rotor. I am of the firm opinion that if somebody reads the post and still applies the spray to their brakes, well, sometimes you just gotta let ‘em touch the stove to see if it’s hot

 

[cookie70]

Thanks for the info Rod. Are you going to mention the CC Rise linkages now available as a "hack"

 

[Rod B.]

Thanks for the info Rod. Are you going to mention the CC Rise linkages now available as a "hack"

That’s funny….I was leaving for Baja Mexico the following morning and trying to get the three articles written and posted before I left. I hadn’t meant to release anything until I got back, but the computer rebooting and posting the incomplete first article jammed me up. I was typing so much and trying to think about what hacks to include, I completely forgot about Cascade Component’s Rise linkage upgrade and pivot axle lock. That would have been a perfect addition to the hack section. Especially Cascade‘s new upper pivot axle retention system. No more linkage movement on the upper pivot axle..…nice….

Where I’m at in Baja has really slowwwww internet but excellent Margaritas…hmmm. Cookie, could you do me a favor and post a link to Cascade Component‘s, Rise linkage upgrade which increases rear travel and also a post on the new upper pivot axle lock. I know you recently installed the linkage on your Rise. If possible maybe go into a bit of detail on why the two pieces are a good thing. I would appreciate it.

if you can’t get to it, I’ll take care of it when I get back.

Be safe,
Rod

 

[Rod B.]

Hello,

Please consider Hack # 5 detailed below an addition to Part Three in my suspension series. Part Three discusses small things you can do to your Rise suspension, or any mountain bike suspension, to improve or restore and give it a smooth, like new feel.

I would first like to add additional information to my previous post regarding servicing the foam oil rings located beneath the black rubber wiper seals on your fork. I cannot stress this enough, if you ride frequently, especially in poor weather conditions, i.e. lots of mud exposure, or lots of dust, you want to service the foam rings much more frequently than what Fox or Rockshox recommends. I would suggest at a minimum, every three months. You will be surprised by how smooth and plush your fork will feel on the top end after doing so. Servicing the upper wiper seal is one of the cheapest and best ways to improve your fork. If your fork is feeling very harsh, if your hands are hurting, yet your suspension is set up correctly, then you need to clean or lubricate the foam rings beneath the wiper seals.

* Fox recommends you perform a wiper seal service serviced every 125 ride hours or at least once a year

*Rockshox recommends that you replace the lower leg oil, clean and re-lubricate the wiper seal and foam ring every 50 hours. Rockshox recommends that the black rubber wiper seal and foam ring be replaced every 200 hours.

Servicing the foam ring is not a difficult process and does not require special tools other than a Nm torque wrench. If you plan to replace the black rubber wiper seal, you will need to purchase a seal driver tool. The size of your fork, i.e. Fox 32mm, 34mm 36mm, 38mm, Rockshox Pike 35mm, Lyrik 35mm, ZEB 38mm will dictate the size of the seal driver tool you will need to purchase. The tool can be purchased on Amazon for about $15.

If you watch Fox's video on performing a wiper seal service, you will be intimidated by the amount of tools that Fox states you will need to have in order to perform a wiper service. The tools are nice to have, they make the job easier, however you do not need them. There are many YouTube videos which show how to perform a wiper seal service without using Fox's recommended tools.

You also do not always have to replace the black rubber wiper seal when you service and clean the form ring on your Fox or Rockshox fork. I replace the black rubber seal on my forks once a year. I will replace the foam ring if it looks overly contaminated or worn.

You will need the correct oil to perform a wiper service. Both Fox and Rockshox provide service manuals for all of their forks which will specify the oil types and volumes used for the fork. Note, when performing "Only" a wiper seal service, you need only replace the small amounts of oil located in the lower leg assembly. You do not need to replace any oils in the damper or upper air chamber.

The lower leg assembly on all Fox and Rockshox forks uses two nuts to secure the lower leg assembly to the damper and air shaft which are mounted on the upper assembly. Each nut uses what is known as a "Crush" washer to seal the bottom of the fork. The crush washer prevents the lower leg oil from seeping out of the bottom of the fork. The crush washer is made of soft plastic and mounts into a recess on the nut. When you tighten the nut to torque, the plastic washer will crush and act like a gasket. If your observe oil seeping out at the bottom of the lower fork tube, this means the crush washer is not sealing correctly or the nut was not torqued to specification. You can try checking the torque on the nut, however it's been my experience that if a crush washer is leaking, it's because it was not seated correctly on the nut and it was pinched during installation. No amount of tightening will seal a pinched crush washer.

The picture below depicts a crush washer which is properly seated in the nut prior to installation. Use a dab of grease to secure the crusher washer to the nut when you install the nut.

After performing the foam ring service, you will need to re-install the foam ring back in it's groove located beneath the black rubber wiper seal. You will then slide the lower leg assembly back onto the fork's upper assembly stanchions. It's very easy to pinch the foam rings on the stanchions as you slide the lower leg assembly into place on the upper. If you fill resistance when trying to slide the lower leg onto the upper stanchions, then most likely a foam ring has shifted and is being pinched against the upper stanchion. If you continue pushing, you will cut the soft foam ring. Do Not Force the upper onto the stanchions. Instead, remove the lower assembly and inspect the foam rings to see if it has shifted inside it's groove and is no longer centered in the opening. Re-center the foam rings and again attempt to install the lower leg assembly. You may have to do this several times before the lower leg assembly slides smoothly onto the upper stanchions.

Rise Suspension Hack # 5: Cascade Linkage Arm and Upper Pivot Axle Pre-Load Kit Lock

I would like to start by stating I have not performed this modification. My brother now owns my 2021 Rise M20. I still perform all the service work on the Rise, however my brother does not ride frequently enough to need the Cascade upgrade. If I still owned the Rise, I would absolutely perform the Cascade upgrade.

Cascade Components is a small mountain bike company located in Everette Washington, United States.

Mountain Bike Performance Upgrades | US | Cascade Components

Mountain bike kinematics experts bring your mountain bike maximum performance on the toughest terrain. Shop MTB links, chain guides, and brakes.

cascadecomponents.bike

Orbea Suspension Links

Mountain bike kinematics experts bring your mountain bike maximum performance on the toughest terrain. Shop MTB links, chain guides, and brakes.

cascadecomponents.bike

Cascade manufactures linkage arm upgrades for many mountain bikes including the Orbea Rise and Wild. As you probably know, the 2020 through 2022 Orbea Rise has always suffered from a linkage arm design defect which causes the linkage arm to loosen on the upper pivot axle. Cascade Component's Rise linkage arm and pre-load kit seek to fix the issue.

I've written several articles which detail servicing the Upper and Lower pivot axles on the 2020 thru 2022, Rise M series. You can refer to the articles here:

Part # 1: Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing Service

Thank you to those who have contributed their experiences thus far to make this article better. I service the linkage, i.e. remove the linkage, axles, inspect, clean and lubricate the bearings about every six months on my Rise. The pivot bearings have held up nicely. Very wet or powdery dirt...

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PART # 2: ORBEA RISE - LOWER MAIN LINKAGE AXLE AND BEARING SERVICE

This is Part Two in a two part series on servicing the Rise pivot bearings and linkage. Part Two will discuss servicing the Rise's lower main pivot axle and bearings. If possible, please read Part One before continuing with this article. In Part One, "Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing...

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The articles came about after I'd owned my Rise for a few months and it began to make an irritating creaking noise. Initially I suspected the creaking was caused by a lack of proper lubrication at the "Upper" and "Lower" pivot axles. Over time and with the help of other Orbea Forum users reporting similar issues, I began to suspect that the creaking noise was solely attributed to a defect in the design of the linkage arm and upper pivot axle as a unit.

If you read my tech articles, you'll see there is a gradual shift in the thread where I began to realize that the creaking issue wasn't caused by a lack of lubrication, but caused by a loosening of the linkage arm on the upper pivot axle. Once the linkage arms loosen up, excess play in the rear triangle develops and it creates an issue where the upper pivot axle is allowed to slide back and forth in micro movements across the upper pivot axle frame bearings. This shifting back and forth eventually rubs the grease away from the upper pivot axle. The axle runs dry, the creaking noise starts and you go crazy trying to figure out where the creaking noise is coming from.

Important Note: The lower and upper pivot axles on the Rise 2020-2022 models are not sealed. Despite having proper pre-load set and the sealed linkage bearings being in perfect condition, if the axles are allowed to run dry of grease, they will absolutely cause creaking. To avoid creaking, they must be occasionally disassembled, cleaned and re-greased.

For the 2020-2022 Rise, there needs to be a proper "Pre-Load" linkage arm adjustment set on your Rise via the upper pivot axle. Orbea provides a "Pre-Load" tool with the owner's kit. The pre-load procedure requires that you loosen a pinch bolt on the linkage arm. This loosens the linkage arm on the upper axle. You screw the preload tool into the upper axle and tighten the tool. The tool slides the linkage arm into correct position on the upper axle and correct pre-load is set. The linkage arm pinch bolt is then tightened to torque and the arm to secured to the upper axle. Unfortunately, the single pinch bolt on each linkage arm is not sufficient to secure the linkage arm and maintain lateral stiffness and the integrity of the rear triangle. It's just too much for one small bolt to do. This is especially so after the linkage arm has been removed from the axle on multiple occasions for service. Layers of metal have been removed during the linkage arm removal process and the fit is no longer of a tight tolerance fit.

You will typically know when excessive linkage arm play has occurred in your rear triangle by one of two ways. The first is the much discussed creaking noise. The other occurs when you rail your Rise hard into a berm and the rear triangle feels like it's bending around you and pass you on the trail. Okay, it's not quite like that, but the play in the rear triangle will be evident by a loose motion from the rear triangle.

Orbea recommends that a cylindrical retaining compound be used to secure the linkage arm to the upper pivot axle. The retaining compound works, however, the retaining compound makes the job of servicing the linkage very difficult. The retaining compound which Orbea recommends, will allow for the linkage arms to be removed. However, it's a pain in the ass and very hard, especially if you apply to much of the retaining compound. I learned the hard way to be exceptionally frugal when applying the stuff. Use only a very small amount, i.e. one drop.

I've always felt that the Orbea Rise is one of the most perfect "Trail" eBikes out there for most people. Yes, it's not an Enduro eBike. It's not a heavy, 90Nm, full fatty eBike capable of going 40 miles and climbing 2,000 meters on a 750Wh battery. What the Orbea Rise does well is offer excellent range, decent power and excellent handling for a lightweight "Trail" eBike. The Rise is the type of tool you always pull from the toolbox when things need to get fixed. Out of the box, the Rise in stock form isn't much. It has an extremely low bottom bracket height and by modern standards, a fairly steep head tube angle. However, with a little bit of tweaking to the suspension and brakes, you can make the Rise punch well above it's weight class and into a hard hitting "Trail" bike, which is capable of doing 95% of the stuff that needs to be ridden.

Everybody has a unique riding style and terrain where they ride. What I ride, is not what you ride. How I ride is not how you ride. Therefore, what modification(s) you need to perform on your Rise depends uniquely upon you. For my personal taste, I think the big five mods that need to be performed (I bought a Rise M20)to the Rise are as follows:

1. Replace the stock Fox 34 140mm fork with a 150mm or 160mm fork. For me, a 160mm fork was ideal. Increasing fork travel to 160mm greatly reduced pedal strikes and changed the head tube angle to approximately 65 degrees. The increase in travel and decrease in head tube angle greatly enhanced the descending capabilities of the bike, while at the same time it did not affect the climbing ability of the bike too much.
2. Replace the stock Fox DPS with a Fox Float X or Fox coil shock.
3. Replace the Deore two piston calipers with four piston calipers and the stock 180mm rotors with 220 front and 203 rear rotors.
4. Replace the stock 170mm crank arms with 160mm crank arms. Reducing crank arm length while also increasing fork travel will reduce 95% of all pedal strikes on technical trails. A shorter crank arm will enhance pedal efficiency. This is even more so for riders who are shorter in stature.
5. Lastly, I would replace the stock linkage arms with a set of Cascade Component's linkage arms and Rise upper pivot axle retention lock.

I cannot vouch for the Cascade Component's Rise linkage arm because I have not used the product. I mention the product solely as an option to consider if, 1) you find you are tired of screwing with Orbea's faulty linkage design and creaking noise, 2) You would like more lateral stiffness in the rear triangle, 3) You would like to increase travel in the rear to 150mm. Boys, despite what the women in your life say, size does matter......

Cascade states that the Rise Linkage uses a slightly different pinch bolt design to retain the linkage arm on the upper pivot axle:

"We have also done a little to remedy the issue of links walking out on the spline at the main pivot due to side loading. The pinch bolt has been flipped to the outside of the link so that a tighter clamp on the spline can be achieved. Tighter clamp on the spline makes it much harder for the link to slide outwards."

Cascade states that their Rise linkage will increase rear travel by 10mm to 150mm. You will still being able to use your stock rear shock and stock mounting hardware:

"This link is designed to increase travel to 150mm while significantly boosting progression. If you're wondering what this might be similar to, think Stump jumper Evo link. The increase in progression allows you to keep a super light and active off the top feel without having to sacrifice bottom out resistance. For descents the improvement is substantial. Let your Rise stretch it's legs a little. All links come with MAX bearings installed and are completely ready to bolt up."

Lastly, Cascade offers a upper pivot axle "Pre-Load" retention system that will stop the linkage arms from shifting on the upper pivot axle. The system can only be used with Cascade's linkage arm. I believe this system will no longer require the application of a retaining compound. This will make servicing and greasing the upper axle much easier to do. For this reason alone, I would buy the linkage arm and pre-load locking kit.

"This kit is designed to be used in conjunction with our Rise link to completely solve all issues and concerns with the links migrating outwards on the splines due to side loads. Truth be told, a single pinch clamp often isn't adequate to react all side loads from the rear end. Included is a through bolt, washer, nut, and bearing spacer. The bearing spacer gets installed between the two bearings in the seat tube. This allows the two links to be clamped together through the inner races of the bearings without overloading them axially. The washer and nut are designed specifically for use with our link and nest into it nicely for a no-extra-bulk look. Additionally, the nut keys into the pinch clamp slot so that you only need a tool to tighten the through bolt. If you have had your links slide outwards on the spline and/or are concerned about it, this kit is the ticket."

You should do your own research on Cascade Components Rise linkage arm and upper pivot axle " Rise Pre-Load Ki."

Here are several links to eMTB Forum, Orbea Rise Cascade Component threads:

Orbea Rise Cascade Component Link

It's happening - no details on it though. Saw this through their IG showing this at the Crankworx Whistler Booth. Below are all educated speculation: + progressivity + travel (possibility, if so, not much) Gen 1 Rise (up to 2022) - should fit both carbon and hydro Gen 2 Rise (2023 edition) -...

www.emtbforums.com

Anyone install their cascade link for rise yet ?

Curious if anyone with the pre load kit was able to install it yet.

www.emtbforums.com

You Tube Video - Installation:

 

[steve_sordy]

@Rod B. Great stuff !
Was there a hack #4?
You appear to have gone from hack #3 to hack #5

 

[Rod B.]

@Rod B. Great stuff !
Was there a hack #4?
You appear to have gone from hack #3 to hack #5

Steve, Hack #4 involves frame protection. I listed it at the end of my first post for article Part #3. I realize hack four isn't a suspension hack. I included the stair tread traction tape hack as a last minute addition to save people money on frame protection.

The tape comes in various widths, including a one inch wide by 60 foot roll, which costs about $25. The size is perfect for protecting chain and seat stays from damage. You can cover a lot of frames with 60 feet of tape.

The tape is semi matte black in color and has a rubberized, "Non-Grit", texture which is very durable and can take a lot of damage. The tape was originally intended to be placed at the edge of stair treads on boats to provide traction against slippage. Because the tape is rubberized it doesn't scratch bare feet like a normal gritted traction tape would do.

I tried the tape simply because I was tired of being "Bent Over" and paying a lot of money for clear 3M tape or other frame protection kits sold on the market. The clear tape would yellow with time and it didn't offer a whole lot of protection from side impacts and scrapes with sharp rocks. You may have seen past pictures I've posted of the trails I like to ride in Utah and Nevada. Most of the trails feature very tight turning radiuses and are lined with very sharp square edged rocks. The clear frame tape simply does not hold up well to side glances on the rear triangle. The black traction tape performs this service very well, although it's not bullet proof. You hit anything hard enough and the frame's going to scratch.

My buddy rides clipless and has aalways had an issue with the cleats on his shoes scratching and gouging the paint on the seat stays of his bike. This typically occurs when he's trying to quickly clip in on difficult sections which he briefly clipped out of and then has to quickly clip back in. He has a Trek Rail which has a matte carbon finish and his cleats were really scratching up the seat stays. We put the tape along the top of his seat stays and he hasn't had an issue since. The tape is really durable.

Here's a picture of my Levo with the tape applied to the seat and chain stays. Numerous contact hits over 1,000 miles and it still looks good.

 

[ZXR_Power]

I have to say something to hack #1. All Fox Float X models do not provide a HSC adjustment. Only LSC. On the cheap OEM performance models the LSC adjustement knob is missing. Although if you remove the plastic cap you can choose between 4 adjustement positions.
After installing the blue knob you will get 11 adjustement positions. This is integrated in the knob with balls and detents. I did this on my Rise H10 MY2023.
But I have to tell you there is not an effect. Why? The cheap Float X uses a different base valve tune. It is adjusted to work with most average rider weights on the Rise.
If you want full adjustment ability you will need to upgrade to the factory base valve. Only the blue knob assy which is very hard to come by is not enough. Unfortunately.

 

[Rod B.]

I have to say something to hack #1. All Fox Float X models do not provide a HSC adjustment. Only LSC. On the cheap OEM performance models the LSC adjustement knob is missing. Although if you remove the plastic cap you can choose between 4 adjustement positions.
After installing the blue knob you will get 11 adjustement positions. This is integrated in the knob with balls and detents. I did this on my Rise H10 MY2023.
But I have to tell you there is not an effect. Why? The cheap Float X uses a different base valve tune. It is adjusted to work with most average rider weights on the Rise.
If you want full adjustment ability you will need to upgrade to the factory base valve. Only the blue knob assy which is very hard to come by is not enough. Unfortunately.

ZXR_Power,

You are correct. When I referred to the Float X as having a High Speed Compression adjustment, I was referring to the two position ride lever. However, when I checked to verify this, I discovered that the ride lever assisted Low Speed Compression and not High Speed Compression. Thank you for the correction.

In regards to Hack # 1, Fox Float X OEM Performance Low Speed Compression hack, everything that you mentioned, I specifically stated in the Float X hack.

Here is what I wrote:

" Below is depicted a Fox Float X Performance model. You will note there is a black plastic, non-adjustable cap in place of the blue low speed compression adjustment knob found on the Performance Elite. Beneath the black plastic cap is the low speed compression adjustment shaft. The LSC shaft is capable of providing four clicks of LSC. The bike manufacturer determines which of the four clicks of adjustment the black plastic cap is placed upon.

As a side note, the Performance Elite utilizes a slightly different LSC damper valving which gives the Performance Elite 11 clicks of LSC adjustment.

I spoke with Fox and they state this modification will give you four clicks of Low Speed Compression Adjustment. However, after installing the LSC knob, the blue LSC knob will turn 11 clicks. Is Fox telling the truth about the four clicks? At the time I spoke to Fox, the hack was not readily known. Fox may have been attempting to protect the higher cost of the Performance Elite. Maybe Fox is telling the truth, I believe so. Fox states the Performance Elite uses a different LSC damper valving which gives the Performance Elite an actual 11 clicks of adjustment. Theoretically, you could disassemble the Performance OEM shock and replace the LSC valving. However the high cost would not justify the modification. "

Regarding the availability of the low speed compression conversion kit (Fox Part # 808-17-470 KIT). I am not familiar with sourcing Fox parts in Europe and it likely may be difficult to source the blue low speed compression knob kit. In the United States the conversion kit is available however, the only way to purchase the conversion kit is to order the part directly through a bike shop." A suspension service center which specializes in Fox products would also be a good source for purchasing the part.

I have a spare Float X low speed compression conversion kit available if anyone wishes to purchase it. I'll sell it for what I paid for the kit. I'd be willing to mail it to Europe if you are willing to pay shipping. Send me a private message if you are interested.

Be safe,
Rod

 

[ZXR_Power]

In EU this kit is very hard to buy. If available it‘s quickly sold out after a few days or hours.

It‘s annoying that Orbea provides the Float X performance in the 2023 models without LSC adjustment.
Back in 2022 the Orbea Rise H15 came with Float X performance and LSC knob. But Orbea stated „damper with special tune for Rise“.

Orherwise the adjustment ist just without any effect with the special tuned base valve. That‘s caused by the shimstack.

So my plan is to replace the special tuned base valve with the factory valve at the first service.
I‘ve read about the experience from a biker with a Canyon Spectral. He mounted the blue knob on his Float X with Canyon specific tune. But it worked, so it‘s clear that the special Orbea tune of the base valve is responsible for the non functional LSC adjustment.

Orherwise in my opinion the Float X is a great damper.

Edit:
The plastic cap provides 4 clicks via ball and detent per one turn. But it is very hard to turn without popping off the cap.
The blue knob has got more balls and detents and provides 11 clicks per turn.
The only advantage is the more fine justage of the valve.

 

[Rod B.]

In EU this kit is very hard to buy. If available it‘s quickly sold out after a few days or hours.

It‘s annoying that Orbea provides the Float X performance in the 2023 models without LSC adjustment.
Back in 2022 the Orbea Rise H15 came with Float X performance and LSC knob. But Orbea stated „damper with special tune for Rise“.

Orherwise the adjustment ist just without any effect with the special tuned base valve. That‘s caused by the shimstack.

So my plan is to replace the special tuned base valve with the factory valve at the first service.
I‘ve read about the experience from a biker with a Canyon Spectral. He mounted the blue knob on his Float X with Canyon specific tune. But it worked, so it‘s clear that the special Orbea tune of the base valve is responsible for the non functional LSC adjustment.

Orherwise in my opinion the Float X is a great damper.

Edit:
The plastic cap provides 4 clicks via ball and detent per one turn. But it is very hard to turn without popping off the cap.
The blue knob has got more balls and detents and provides 11 clicks per turn.
The only advantage is the more fine justage of the valve.

ZXR_Power,

It may be cheaper in regards to parts and labor costs, for you to instead buy a used Float X Factory or Performance Elite shock. You could sell your OEM Float X to offset the cost of the Factory/Elite shock upgrade. I will speak to my suspension guy and ask what it would cost for parts and labor to perform a LSC base valving upgrade.

For my situation, I elected not to replace the OEM Performance LSC base valve. I instead performed the LSC hack, which gave me the flour clicks of adjustment and I then had the compression damper custom tuned to a cross stack configuration which greatly enhanced LSC compression dampening. You may want to look into doing something similar to this instead of replacing the entire LSC base valve assembly.

Regarding the LSC valving replacement you are considering:

Fox diagram for a 2022 Fox Float X.

LSC Base Valving Assembly

Base Valve Internals

I'm not a suspension expert and as an average mountain bike enthusiast, I find it difficult and confusing to decipher Fox's part numbering system. Because of this, I am uncertain if you must buy the entire shock eyelet assembly to get the Fox Float X Factory/Performance Elite low speed compression (LSC) base valve? Or, can you buy the Base Valve separately as a whole unit and install it in a Fox Float X OEM Performance?

Fox does offer base valve, "Valve Stack" assemblies in various configurations.

For those who are following this thread and find the topic interesting, it's important to know that when Fox or a manufacturer specifies a compression or rebound damper "Shock Tune", they are trying to configure the shock to work for the widest range of rider skills and rider weights. It's very much a "One Shock to fit all" mentality. The riders at the center of the bell curve, i.e. average ability and weight, will get the most benefit from the shock. However, those riders at the ends of the bell curve, who ride very aggressively, or those who weigh a lot, will not get the same level of performance from the shock. This is where custom tuning comes into play. Custom tuning especially benefits those riders who push their bikes hard or for those riders who weigh a lot, or who weigh very little. A shock custom tuned to your abilities and weight is perfection. As a side note, costs to have a tuning service performed average about $100 in the United States.

If you are interested in further reading, here is a very good "Pink Bike" article which explains shim stack tuning, how the shims work and affect shock/fork performance:

To The Point - Shim Stacks - Pinkbike

Shim stacks explained by Eric Neeley, Suspension Design Engineer at RockShox. To The Point is a series of articles that explains the ins and outs of your bike every Tuesday.

www.pinkbike.com

Here is a Fox article which details the disassembly of a Fox Float X:

2022 FLOAT X Rebuild | Bike Help Center | FOX

www.ridefox.com