Shimano Battery Life Poll

[Gary]

1) # of charging cycles 86
2) remaining capacity 93%
3) which charger you use (fast (E6000) or slow (E6002) charger) Both
4) Battery BT-E8010 504wh
5) 3632 miles
6) 11 months old
7) Always stored inside the house

Today's ride I only managed 7.5miles and 1800ft of climbing on it fully charged. Mostly in trail/Eco.
Then continued to ride a further 3 miles with it off.

That's cold, shitty, reduced traction, steep up and down Scotland for ya tho.

 

[RickBullotta]

I just ordered another battery since i need a full capacity battery for some upcoming races - but I'll run an experiment on this one and slow charge it only to see if that makes a difference.

BTW, Comencal has BT-8010 batteries in stock! They've been very hard to find here in the USA...

 

[OldGoatMTB]

1) # of charging cycles 86
2) remaining capacity 93%
....

Could you explain how you arrived at the 93% number? I would like to know this but the only indicator I know of is the 5 "Bars" on the display. Did you calculate it using the estimated range when it's charged, compared to the estimated range when the battery was new? Or is there some other black magic that I've overlooked? Thanks

 

[RickBullotta]

Could you explain how you arrived at the 93% number? I would like to know this but the only indicator I know of is the 5 "Bars" on the display. Did you calculate it using the estimated range when it's charged, compared to the estimated range when the battery was new? Or is there some other black magic that I've overlooked? Thanks

This information is available via the battery diagnostics in the Shimano eTube app for windows or via the Stunlocker iOS or Android app.

 

[OldGoatMTB]

This information is available via the battery diagnostics in the Shimano eTube app for windows or via the Stunlocker iOS or Android app.

I have the eTube Project app but didn't see it. I'll take another look, but can you point me to it? I guess you did when you said battery diagnostics, but I don't actually remember seeing that.

 

[Spiff]

I have the eTube Project app but didn't see it. I'll take another look, but can you point me to it? I guess you did when you said battery diagnostics, but I don't actually remember seeing that.

These battery parameters: health, cycles and % charge, are only available in eTube Windows PC version, but to connect your laptop to the bike you need the expensive adapter SM-PCE1 which costs around 150€. This information is not available in eTube Android/IOS cell or tablet versions.

The cheaper alternative is to buy the Android APP STUNLOCKER, which costs 1,69€ and connects to the eBike by BT and retrives these and other useful configuration parameters, but this cheap version does not allow to unlock the motor, to do that you'd need and additional license for about 30€

 

[RickBullotta]

I have the eTube Project app but didn't see it. I'll take another look, but can you point me to it? I guess you did when you said battery diagnostics, but I don't actually remember seeing that.

It’s only in the Windows/PC version which requires a special cable/converter box. SM-PCE1 has r something like that.

 

[WildGuy]

I wanted to know this info for my battery for a while but wasn't going to pay out all that for the cable, so these apps sound good. Any thoughts on which app is best? (I have no interest in unlocking the motor so that functionality irrelevant in my case).

 

[OldGoatMTB]

I wanted to know this info for my battery for a while but wasn't going to pay out all that for the cable, so these apps sound good. Any thoughts on which app is best? (I have no interest in unlocking the motor so that functionality irrelevant in my case).

I downloaded the ST Unlocker app and it's money well spent, to a nerd like me!

 

[WildGuy]

I downloaded the ST Unlocker app and it's money well spent, to a nerd like me!

Hmm I was going to download it too, but after reading this (very lengthy) thread STUnlocker (ex Shimano STEPS Unlocker) Android & Windows App for derestriction/market change and etc - EMTB Forums I'm not so sure I want to take the risk - I'd have no intention of changing the power, but if there's ever a problem with the motor and Shimano detect that unauthorized software has been used on it for sure they'll use that as a reason to decline replacing it (and, something else I learned from this is that you can't buy a new Shimano motor anywhere else, and, if they decide you've tampered with your motor they won't even sell you one! ).

Really the E-tube android app should show us the battery data rather than having to buy a ridiculously overpriced cable or rely on a Russian hacker. Probably Shimano don't want too many people to be able to check their battery health because from the sound of it that'll generate quite a lot of warranty claims for batteries that haven't lived up to their claimed longevity.

 

[Gary]

if there's ever a problem with the motor and Shimano detect that unauthorized software has been used on it for sure they'll use that as a reason to decline replacing it (and, something else I learned from this is that you can't buy a new Shimano motor anywhere else, and, if they decide you've tampered with your motor they won't even sell you one! ).

Well that's a load of bollocks.
Customers don't generally buy motors direct from Shimano, they need to buy them through a bike shop, who in turn buys from their countries Shimano distributor.

 

[OldGoatMTB]

Really the E-tube android app should show us the battery data rather than having to buy a ridiculously overpriced cable or rely on a Russian hacker. Probably Shimano don't want too many people to be able to check their battery health because from the sound of it that'll generate quite a lot of warranty claims for batteries that haven't lived up to their claimed longevity.

Honestly, the main/only reason I bought it was because I wanted to see the battery info. That peek behind the curtain was worth a buck or two, to me.

 

[Gary]

Russian hacker

WTF mate?
Vladll put a lot of time and effort into designing an App that's way better than Shimano has. and is selling it for the less than the price of a cheap cup of coffee.

 

[WildGuy]

Well that's a load of bollocks.
Customers don't generally buy motors direct from Shimano, they need to buy them through a bike shop, who in turn buys from their countries Shimano distributor.

I was merely relaying what I'd gleaned from @SuperFastBiker2019's post in the thread I previously referenced, which ironically enough fits perfectly with what you are somehow disagreeing with. But you're always right so, naturally, why shouldn't you jump right in and tell someone else what an idiot they are? 5000 posts and counting there's barely a thread on this forum you haven't spammed, so yes I do get what your "Deal with it princess" line means! lol

 

[WildGuy]

WTF mate?
Vladll put a lot of time and effort into designing an App that's way better than Shimano has. and is selling it for the less than the price of a cheap cup of coffee.

By his own admission he hacked a copy of some Shimano software that was meant for dealers only (almost certainly his resulting product is in copyright infringement as a result). People have referred to him as Russian and he hasn't corrected them on that (though given that he admits he doesn't want anyone to know who he is that's as likely to be because he'd be quite happy for people to think he is Russian than that he actually is). Therefore I'd say the term "Russian hacker" is as good as any for him, and not one that he himself actually objects to.

 

[Gary]

I was merely relaying what I'd gleaned from @SuperFastBiker2019's post in the thread I previously referenced, which ironically enough fits perfectly with what you are somehow disagreeing with. But you're always right so, naturally, why shouldn't you jump right in and tell someone else what an idiot they are? 5000 posts and counting there's barely a thread on this forum you haven't spammed, so yes I do get what your "Deal with it princess" line means! lol

Yeah, and I'm "merely" correcting your inacurate information. Get over yourself.

I didn't call you an idiot. You did!

 

[Gary]

By his own admission he hacked a copy of some Shimano software that was meant for dealers only (almost certainly his resulting product is in copyright infringement as a result). People have referred to him as Russian and he hasn't corrected them on that (though given that he admits he doesn't want anyone to know who he is that's as likely to be because he'd be quite happy for people to think he is Russian than that he actually is). Therefore I'd say the term "Russian hacker" is as good as any for him, and not one that he himself actually objects to.

Stop trying to justify putting someone down on the basis of their nationality.
Referring to someone as a nationality isn't the same thing as using it negatively.
Try to be less of a prick, eh?

 

[WildGuy]

Stop trying to justify putting someone down on the basis of their nationality.
Referring to someone as a nationality isn't the same thing as using it negatively.
Try to be less of a prick, eh?

As your consistently abusive postings, on an electric mountain bike forum of all places, lead me to believe you have mental health issues I shan't judge you too harshly. But as there's nothing I can do to help you from here I suggest we strike a deal: never reply to another of my posts and I'll be delighted to promise to steer well-clear of yours.

 

[aajiikoo]

By the way you can get battery health report via E-tube tablet app too. Because of some reason the mobile phone app doesn't have this option.

My current bike has BT-E8035 battery. The original battery was at 90% capacity after 10 cycles and 87% after 20 cycles. I contacted the Shimano importer and got a new battery because the capacity had dropped so rapidly. Well, the new battery dropped to 90% exactly at 10 cycles. Before that it was 100%. I know this because I checked it after every cycle. I've been using the fast E6000 charger. Now I'm thinking that maybe there is some kind of a bug in software which checks the battery capacity or the charger doesn't work correctly. I'm going to continue checking the capacity after every cycle.

 

[Hakki]

My stats today.
1) # of charging cycles 92
2) remaining capacity 91%
3) E6000
4) Battery BT-E8010 504wh
5) 5772km
6) 14 months old
7) Always stored inside the house
8) Average driving temperature about +5-10Celcius. Coldest temp about -28celcius.

I think freezing temperatures make some effect to capacity. And especially how long rides are in freezing conditions.
My hardest ride was over 5 hours below -15C. The battery was getting very cold even inside.

 

[Marc_250]

I'll add my stats here tomorrow, running 2 battery's with hundreds on cycles over 6 months, defo was a 10-20% reduction in range within the first couple of months but have held steady since

 

[Marc_250]

BT-E8010
Batt1 (original 6 months old)
83 Cycles 94%
Batt2 (prolly 3/4 months old)
63 Cycles 96%

E6000 Charger
Batts stored and charged in house
5500km but not accurate as used STUnlocker to change rear wheel size. Strava has it closer to 8000 Miles.

Stats are from STUnlocker. Main issue I'm having is the damn battery connectors are wearing out!

 

[electricbogaloo]

1) # of charging cycles 17
2) remaining capacity 100%
3) I use E6000 charger exclusively
4) Battery BT-E8010 504wh
6) 12 months old / ~ 900 miles

I store the battery between 15-20 degrees celcius in a dark chamber and try to only charge it to 100% when I need it and then only right before I leave for the ride. I also try to avoid to fully empty it if it's not needed and if it happens I charge it up as fast as possible.

When I store it longterm then at 30-40%. I ride almost exclusively in Eco/High mode with 90-100 rpm and Im fairly light (around 70kg with gear). Boost-mode feels to strong anyway with that weight.

 

[R120]

I think it would be interesting to see if peoples bikes are derestricted or not (fully derestricted, with assist always on, as EU vs US limit shouldn't be that relevant ) as this has quite an effect on battery life, because the motor is constantly drawing power - I had one of mine derestricted for a bit, and I found my range dropped by about 15%. I now run the bikes stock.

 

[electricbogaloo]

Don't think that derestriction has that big of an effect. Steep uphills with poor traction are what strains on the battery the most and there it's difficult to reach more than 25 km/h anyway.

Battery One (model bt-e8035 504wh)
1) # of charging cycles = 32
2) remaining capacity = 85%
3) charger = Mainly e6002 slow charger, but use e6000 on weekends.
4) age = 5 months

Battery Two (model bt-e8035 504wh)
1) # of charging cycles = 20
2) remaining capacity = 87%
3) charger = Mainly e6002 slow charger, but use e6000 on weekends.
4) age = 4 months

Both batteries fell to 90% remaining capacity at about 10 cycles and 87% remaining capacity at about 20 cycles. Both batteries are stored at SoC between 40-60% then usually charged to 100% the night before.

I suspect my slow charger (e6002) as the problem as the slow charger charges faster (14% per hour) than my fast charger (e6000) between 80-100%. Given that I use both chargers it is possible that the fast charger is degrading the batteries faster.

Really strange. How are you handling your batteries? Charging them up to 100% the night before is not ideal but also not downright wrong. Do you leave them on the charger during the night?

Here is an interesting study on battery degradation:

Impact of Dynamic Driving Loads and Regenerative Braking on the Aging of Lithium-Ion Batteries in Electric Vehicles - IOPscience

 

[Marc_250]

Does anyone else get these issues?

The display showing a different number of battery 'bars' to that on the battery itself. They're normally only out of sync for a few minutes but seems kinda odd.

Inconsistent end of battery life indicators. Normally should drop to 1 red bar then mandate eco mode then dead. - However I've had it on more than one occasion go from two bars (or been on 1 red bar for like 10 seconds) indicated on display to dead instantly. Tended to happen when I've been using low power modes for an endurance run then switched to Boost for a final 5 mins of madness only for the battery to cave in. Never had these battery inconsistency's with Bosch...

 

[R120]

Yes, its a common occurrence, because the head unit is displaying estimated range/remaining battery level based off the data the system has gathered during the ride since you powered up the bike., whereas the battery is just showing the drain on it.

You will often find if you turn off the bike and turn it back on they read the same again, and the range left is slightly recalculated

 

[Marc_250]

Yea I get the range should be inaccurate just as it would be in my car if I drive like miss daisy then don't but why the battery level skips a whole bar is a pain in the ass. That's like my fuel gauge going from 2/5 to zero......where's my 1/5!

 

[nosenada]

Really strange. How are you handling your batteries? Charging them up to 100% the night before is not ideal but also not downright wrong. Do you leave them on the charger during the night?

I store my 2nd battery in my car in a insulated bag when out for a ride. At home they are stored in my house. Rarely stored for more than a day in a fully charged state.

I used to leave them on the charger at night, but now I use timers that do not start the charging until shortly before my rides.

Ways I may be "hard" on my batteries include:
* 100% discharge on many weekend days.
* Leaving them at 0% (bike shuts off after eco reserve) for up to 4 hours (rare, but sometimes).
* Lots of non-stop turbo climbs (2,000 to 3,000 ft) where the battery is warm at the end of the climb.
* Charging immediately after long turbo climbs (Recently one battery refused to charge until it cooled after a mostly turbo 6 mile, 2,100 ft climb, I normally would have waited for it to cool a little, but wanted to see what would happen).
* Charging in a hot environment when out riding. Probably 90-100 deg F, but at times they have been in a backpack with the charger or next to an inverter that may of raised the temperature above this.
* Used to charge for about the first six months in the garage at night which was between 50-60 deg F which I understand is cool enough to plating to occur.
* Charging with my presumed defective slow charger (e6002) that would not slow down its charging rate after reaching 80%.

The slow charger has been replaced under warranty with a fast charger (e6000).

I have resolved to be more cautious of charging temp going forward. Except for the weekends, I now charge indoors which is between 65 and 75 deg F. I no longer charge with the battery in a backpack with the charger or with it next to my inverter when out riding.

I hope my batteries are defective and that Shimano batteries are not this fragile.

 

[aajiikoo]

It seems that there is something wrong with BT-E8035 batteries. So far I've had 2 of these batteries and both have dropped capacity exactly the same way: 100%>90% at 10 cycles and 90%>87% at 20 cycles. Currently I'm at 24 cycles so let's see what happens at 30 cycles... On my previous bike I had 2 BT-E8010 batteries and one was at 92% after 80 cycles and the other at 100% after 20 cycles. I've handled all of these batteries exactly the same way: usually I ride until the bike shuts down and then use the fast charger to charge it to 100% after the battery has cooled/warmed to room temperature. I don't store it at 100% for a long time because usually I ride almost every day.