Because the front tread pattern has two huge “V” shaped knobs, with no centre knob, I found the bike wanted to run in the middle of the tread, and the centre blocks are forced outwards, meaning you’re actually running in the middle of the two huge “V” shaped knobs.
Interesting, I've not had this sensation.
If you get a chance, try the rear on the front also. I much prefer it that way.
Agreed. The Shredda Front seems almost like a full wet tire. Think Maxxis Wet Scream if you've seen one in person. I've read a few reviews with the Shredda rear in the front and that seemed the best without being overkill like the front would be for soft/loose conditions. Then the MM in the rear.
Thanks xtraman122 for the reply and info much appreciated
Thanks James, appreciate you sharing the feedback from Schwalbe. My LBS have asked the same question of the Sales Rep and didn't really get an answer. I also see Rob's post advising he had a 'pretty big rim ding', so feel its a balance maybe run rear for me at 30/31 PSI and test with no insert as want to get most out pf the radial carcass, plus less of a pain on install, but once rim dinged its dinged!..........
Thanks Rob (nice bike, looks so good) appreciated you experienced feedback. Be interesting to see what you think of them fin Finale on faster rolling/ rocky terrain which is more what I ride in Aust. If you can please put a post up. Have fun in Finale - SEND IT!
The benefit of the radials is their higher flexibility allowing them to have a larger contact patch with the ground to provide the better bump absorption and traction. The proper amount of flex there shouldn’t be too extreme though, if you were consent having your tire flex so much the insert would be affecting it then your pressure is probably too low.Thanks James, appreciate you sharing the feedback from Schwalbe. My LBS have asked the same question of the Sales Rep and didn't really get an answer. I also see Rob's post advising he had a 'pretty big rim ding', so feel its a balance maybe run rear for me at 30/31 PSI and test with no insert as want to get most out pf the radial carcass, plus less of a pain on install, but once rim dinged its dinged!..........
Thanks you and makes sense. I don't have tubeless inserts yet (I have been running Tanus Amour and have had no problems and they are easy so if it aint broke, I just haven't changed) get the Tannus will negate the effects of radials.
This is what I’m using right now. Definitely not a usual big name brand, but it’s got a pretty conservative profile in terms of size and was actually very light. It was worlds easier to install than my beefy e-mtb CushCores but still seems to get the job done for the riding I do. It pretty much feels like the material pool noodles are made of.
That's uncanny as this is what I have been looking at the SL and the HD version. So if the SL is working for you might give that a try when I put on the radials.
Totally agree with you. I just demoed a Santa Cruz Vala that had these tires, and a near silent DT Swiss 350 24t rear hub, and I've never been on such a quiet bike before. It really allowed me to focus on riding and hear how the trail was reacting to the bike. I used to love loud hubs, but now I'm dreading going back to my normal bike with Hydra hubs
This is a similar reason why I dislike the Maxxis DHF and actually prefer the DHR2 as a front tire, which Santa Cruz had also been speccing as standard for years on a few of their bikes.
You should try an Onyx hub, which is silent, gamer changer imho.Totally agree with you. I just demoed a Santa Cruz Vala that had these tires, and a near silent DT Swiss 350 24t rear hub, and I've never been on such a quiet bike before. It really allowed me to focus on riding and hear how the trail was reacting to the bike. I used to love loud hubs, but now I'm dreading going back to my normal bike with Hydra hubs
If you're riding mostly soft terrain dirt, sand, silt, mix of smaller rocks I'd say the shredda, if the hard pack with large rocks the Alberts would probably be better.
Not surprising that larger contact patch = more drag = more battery expenditure.
I can’t confirm that, I am only asking? ThanksNot surprising that larger contact patch = more drag = more battery expenditure.
Very interesting.
I run the DHR II up front. That rear shredda kinda resembles it.
It may not be what you are saying ...
Ummm, yes, but How much?It may not be what you are saying ...
... but I am saying "... larger contact patch = more drag = more battery expenditure"
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To slightly offset the increased rolling resistance, especially on smoother terrain, you can also increase your tire pressures compared to non-radial tires and still have increased grip with less impact to rolling resistance. I noticed this after riding a Vala recently and I had my pressures up about 10-15% compared to the Maxxis tires I’ve been running for years with no noticeable downsides, and a still noticeable improvement in grip and absorption.Ummm, yes, but How much?
From Schwalbe web?
Due to the larger contact area with the ground, Schwalbe radial tires always have more rubber in contact with the ground. As a result, rolling resistance increases slightly. However, this can be almost compensated for by clever tread designs, as already demonstrated on the ALBERT, for example.
MTB radial tires | Schwalbe
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