Rail 5 Motor Removal For Kiox Upgrade

9thwonder

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Hi All, this has probably been discussed previously but I just cant find it anywhere. I am due my delivery of my new Rail 5 soon and I have the Kiox upgrade kit coming with it and I will fit it but just wanted some steer on doing it. I know you need to drop the motor and route the new cable through but wondered if anyone has detail on how to do it?
any help would be appreciated.

thanks
 
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He's doing a different job but removes the motor on a Rail 5 in this video. Might be useful to you.
From about 2min 20sec.


 
Hi All, this has probably been discussed previously but I just cant find it anywhere. I am due my delivery of my new Rail 5 soon and I have the Kiox upgrade kit coming with it and I will fit it but just wanted some steer on doing it. I know you need to drop the motor and route the new cable through but wondered if anyone has detail on how to do it?
any help would be appreciated.

thanks

Six bolts to remove motor, pretty easy job to do and makes fitting Kiox cable so much easier. Just make sure you have a torque wrench and some locktite for reassembly .
 
I’ve dropped the Bosch gen4 motor a number of times on the Powerfly 5 and Rail 9.7. I found the fit was a little tighter on the aluminum frame (difficult to reassemble). You could leave the cranks on (helps with small alignment) but remove the peddles, chain and chain guard. Take before/after pics to help with reassembling. Route the wires and cables carefully around the motor to ensure no pinching or crossing. On my first removal/replacement I went slowly and methodically. Once I became familiar with this service I was more confident (and faster) with dropping a motor. I’m only a garage mechanic but these little details were a few issues and concerns for me. YouTube helps and a torque wrench.
 
Removing the motor is the easy part, you barely need to lift it an inch to sneak the cable through, but make sure you take note of exactly where the battery mounting plates are and where the screws sit in the underside of the down tube and also the alignment of the battery key in the hole - take photos of these as they can be a bit of a pain to get a decent battery alignment after.

It took me about 15 mins to get the motor off and cables all run, it took about 30 mins to get a decent battery alignment I was happy with

This guide is helpful:

 
Last edited:
Removing the motor is the easy part, you barely need to lift it an inch to sneak the cable through, but make sure you take note of exactly where the battery mounting plates are and where the screws sit in the underside of the down tube and also the alignment of the battery key in the hole - take photos of these as they can be a bit of a pain to get a decent battery alignment after.

It took me about 15 mins to get the motor off and cables all run, it took about 30 mins to get a decent battery alignment I was happy with

This guide is helpful:

View attachment 59839


Hi LexC,

thanks for the info, I cannot open the link you have attached? it says I do not have permissions. is there another way you could send it?

thanks
 
Hi LexC,

thanks for the info, I cannot open the link you have attached? it says I do not have permissions. is there another way you could send it?

thanks
Removing the motor is the easy part, you barely need to lift it an inch to sneak the cable through, but make sure you take note of exactly where the battery mounting plates are and where the screws sit in the underside of the down tube and also the alignment of the battery key in the hole - take photos of these as they can be a bit of a pain to get a decent battery alignment after.

It took me about 15 mins to get the motor off and cables all run, it took about 30 mins to get a decent battery alignment I was happy with

This guide is helpful:

View attachment 59839
Battery alignment is crucial. My battery got stuck after first attempt. If you are going to install lights which operates by the main battery, route out the cable that hides on above the battery`s upper terminal.
 
Removing the motor is the easy part, you barely need to lift it an inch to sneak the cable through, but make sure you take note of exactly where the battery mounting plates are and where the screws sit in the underside of the down tube and also the alignment of the battery key in the hole - take photos of these as they can be a bit of a pain to get a decent battery alignment after.

It took me about 15 mins to get the motor off and cables all run, it took about 30 mins to get a decent battery alignment I was happy with

This guide is helpful:


Why would dropping the motor affect battery alignment or other? Or is it beacuse the cabel swap? Seems like it is just remove 6 bolts, drop the motor and then reinstall it back? Just got my Rail so curious.
 
Why would dropping the motor affect battery alignment or other? Or is it beacuse the cabel swap? Seems like it is just remove 6 bolts, drop the motor and then reinstall it back? Just got my Rail so curious.
Yes it is the cabel swap. You need to remove the consoles at both ends of the battery. They have some adjustments so it is easy to misalign them.
 
It depends on what you’re doing. I installed a dropper, so I had to route a cable for the remote. Loosening the battery mounts may be necessary in order to thread the cables through. I was lucky and everything was reinstalled without the need for a battery realignment.
 
It depends on what you’re doing. I installed a dropper, so I had to route a cable for the remote. Loosening the battery mounts may be necessary in order to thread the cables through. I was lucky and everything was reinstalled without the need for a battery realignment.
Please read the topic. It`s about Kiox upgrade..
 
Please read the topic. It`s about Kiox upgrade..
I’m so sorry. I didn’t realize the op was interested in dropping his gen4 motor for a Kiox upgrade, which can be a step for installing the Kiox wiring. (Which I’ve only installed on my Rail 9.7 and is similar to the cable routing of a dropper post on my aluminum Powerfly 5, which I’ve also installed.) My confusion.
 
I know this has been done without actually lowering the motor. There's another thread where removing the bash guard was enough. YMMV, but it may not be necessary.
 
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