Orbea rise chain touching rubber stay after AXS install

chrismechmaster

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Hey guys

so I installed the sram gx axs on to the standard shimano cassette and found the chain to be to long basically loads of slack in 12th gear

so I shorten it by 4 links , did the g gap and it shifts lovely however I notice in 1st the derailleur is far to forwards indicating the chain is to short

I have added two links back in and everything looks a lot better and it shifts perfectly

however if I put the transmisson in to 12 the chain is touching all the way along the rubber chain guard and even with pressure on the cranks it only clears the rubber Guard by say 0.5 mm

I can’t remember how close the chain was In 12 th before I fitted the axs

if anyone is able to post a pic of there rise in 12th and the chain against the rubber protector I would be really grateful
 
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For my XL frame the chain at rest doesn't touch anywhere along the rubber guard, but there are 3-5mm gaps at either end, where it is close.

Here are some pics (click to expand hopefully ...)

WP_20210405_14_48_58_Pro.jpgWP_20210405_14_50_11_Pro.jpgWP_20210405_14_50_28_Pro.jpgWP_20210405_14_51_00_Pro.jpg
 
I will count when I get home from work and let you know

iirc it’s either 119 or 120
 
Hi Chris,

Would like to hear how the mech performs compared to what you had before (XT? XTR?). I'm happy with my XT mech, but a wireless shifter is quite tempting, especially GX. How did it work out on the handlebar with the brake lever integration?
 
Hi Chris,

Would like to hear how the mech performs compared to what you had before (XT? XTR?). I'm happy with my XT mech, but a wireless shifter is quite tempting, especially GX. How did it work out on the handlebar with the brake lever integration?

I have always had sram on my previous bikes the rise was the first bike I had with shimano xtr although I liked the xtr and it shifter really nice I just love the idea of electronic shifting so moved to the gx wireless

straight out the box fitted it adjust the b gap to the exact distance sram recommend using the sram distance tool and it shifted perfectly didn’t even need to touch the limit screws

compared to the xtr , it’s a really differcult choice I would say the gx is slightly better as you get a clean shift with a positive clunk when it goes in which I like

one think I would say is I have gx wireless on my Levo as well which is ALL sram set up including cassette and chain I would say it shifts slightly cleaner on this bike than the rise I assume as it Because its a ALL sram set up

where the rise with the shimano cassette and chain possibly very slightly isn’t a clean as a all sram set up

however it’s hardy noticeable it works great on the rise tbh
 
Tempting... I was expecting more from the XT, compared to SRAM XO1 I have in an Occam. XO1 feels more precise. Never had an electric shifter before.

Can we install a SRAM cassette to our wheels and hubs?
 
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Tempting... I was expecting more from the XT, compared to SRAM XO1 I have in an Occam. XO1 feels more precise. Never had an electric shifter before.

Can we install a SRAM cassette to our wheels and hubs?


Hi

Yes and no

Not without buying a race face vault different hub

I looked into this and basically ....

The sram cassettes either use xd driver hub or the older Shimano spline hub

We have micro spline hubs fitted to our wheel and there’s no sram cassette that will fit on to the micro spline hub

I have found replacements hubs for our wheels that are xd driver ( but most say they are to weak for emtb use )

So that only leave the shimano one , I have found the older shimano hub for our wheels from sellers in USA cant find any in the uk

So to make it work You would need to buy

Race face vault shimano spline hub and a sram NX cassette this is the only way I can see it can be done
 
Thanks!
Same as mine but the chain still touching a little bit the rubber in 12th gear and I'm not sure I can remove a link safely...

Mine is the same problem is I tried a link less and the angle of the mech in 1st gear looks far to forwards
 
I know that the sram chain has an inside and an outside and if you put it on backwards it is noisy... also the Shimano cassette has special groves that are suppose to work w/the Shimano chain so I would suggest getting a sram chain if you switch to. SRAM cassette
 
Tempting... I was expecting more from the XT, compared to SRAM XO1 I have in an Occam. XO1 feels more precise. Never had an electric shifter before.

Can we install a SRAM cassette to our wheels and hubs?
This is needed.
 
This is needed.


The only thing is They don’t rate xd hubs for emtb (so I have been told ??)
I was told it better to go for a shimano free hub then you can fit the sram nx cassette apparently

So you need that race face vault hub in shimano free hub with the nx sram to get a strong emtb rated set up

This is what I have been told generally from various bike mechanics
 
Is it a different angle on the rear derailleur that is causing this, compared to the Shimano?


Hi yes I believe so when I went under 117 links to the derailleur angle when in first gear was very far forwards

Going back to 117 links seamed much better more normal position / angle of the derailleur through the gear range
 
I know that the sram chain has an inside and an outside and if you put it on backwards it is noisy... also the Shimano cassette has special groves that are suppose to work w/the Shimano chain so I would suggest getting a sram chain if you switch to. SRAM cassette
SRAM chains aren’t directional, other than the quick link.
 
The only thing is They don’t rate xd hubs for emtb (so I have been told ??)
I was told it better to go for a shimano free hub then you can fit the sram nx cassette apparently

So you need that race face vault hub in shimano free hub with the nx sram to get a strong emtb rated set up

This is what I have been told generally from various bike mechanics
Interesting. I’ve seen a many others running XX1 with no known issues reported on the Rise and especially the SL. The SL has comes specced with XX1 to GX on a few models for a year now, so I wouldn’t worry.
I’m going to try the AXS mismatch like you to see if I can feel a shifting difference compared to my analog all SRAM AXS. If I don‘t care for it, I plan on installing an X01 cassette/ chain.
 
@chrismechmaster Did you get a Wolf's tooth or matchmaker to keep the cockpit tidy?

"MM-ISEV, MM-ISII, & MM-MAG is compatible with but not designed for SRAM AXS. With SRAM AXS, the shift lever will be further towards the end of the bar, or closer to the rider's hand than is ideal for most riders.
"

How about the hole into the headtube where the shift cable would have gone - Was that easy to neaten up?

Very interested and, as my XT rear derailleur drifts out of calibration, this becomes increasingly attractive!
 
@chrismechmaster Did you get a Wolf's tooth or matchmaker to keep the cockpit tidy?

"MM-ISEV, MM-ISII, & MM-MAG is compatible with but not designed for SRAM AXS. With SRAM AXS, the shift lever will be further towards the end of the bar, or closer to the rider's hand than is ideal for most riders.
"

How about the hole into the headtube where the shift cable would have gone - Was that easy to neaten up?

Very interested and, as my XT rear derailleur drifts out of calibration, this becomes increasingly attractive!
 
I didn’t no didn’t realise they did that
But thanks I am going to order one now
 
Hi there. Did you have to drop the motor to remove the cable?
I am planning on installing my AXS XX1 mech on my H30 when it arrives. I've asked the same about the dropper cable in another thread since i am also installing a Reverb AXS dropper and the responses are somewhat mixed. Consensus seems to be that I might be able to just pull it out, but to be careful and if I feel any tension or restriction then I should drop the motor.
 
Hi actually never removed the outer cable I just cut it close to the frame and put two caps on the end of the cable it’s hardly noticeable that the cable is still there
 
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