Opinion on Orbea changing cranks for cheaper than spec

[BobR]

Thanks Volts, what do you think they did wrong that is causing the chain ring to Mo with the back pedal so I make sure to avoid it?

 

[ebsocalmtb]

they likely left the dust cover in that is used on the e13 cranks and is discarded on the shimano cranks.

 

[BobR]

Ok, that is what Chicane said… thanks

 

[volts]

they likely left the dust cover in that is used on the e13 cranks and is discarded on the shimano cranks.

yep that's a good bet!

 

[Ducman71]

Just finally got around to pulling off the e*13 alloys (which I never actually had a problem with) and installing the FC-EM900 arms. For anyone else yet to do this, one thing I noticed that I have not seen mentioned here yet is that there is not sufficient clearance to get a hex drive socket and torque wrench on the inner-most of the two pinch bolts on the right (drive) side arm. The chainring prevents anything longer than the short end of an allen key going straight into the head of the bolt when the crank arm is fully seated on the spindle. Proper torque on these bolts is important, but on that one the only option is to go by feel.

 

[volts]

Just finally got around to pulling off the e*13 alloys (which I never actually had a problem with) and installing the FC-EM900 arms. For anyone else yet to do this, one thing I noticed that I have not seen mentioned here yet is that there is not sufficient clearance to get a hex drive socket and torque wrench on the inner-most of the two pinch bolts on the right (drive) side arm. The chainring prevents anything longer than the short end of an allen key going straight into the head of the bolt when the crank arm is fully seated on the spindle. Proper torque on these bolts is important, but on that one the only option is to go by feel.

Or you can get a socket style piece to make it long enough to use the torque tool.

 

[Ducman71]

Or you can get a socket style piece to make it long enough to use the torque tool.

Can you post an image of what you are thinking? The problem is that the inner pinch bolt is essentially on the same plane as the chainring, so the only space to get straight down into the head of the bolt is to use a short key and approach it from the space between the 'spokes' of the chain ring. The chainring itself is slightly dished (convex), and the head of the inner pinch bolt sits basically on the chainline of the chainring, so there is no way to get a longer hex bit straight onto the bolt...

 

[Tribanas]

Given the uncertainty of when e*thirteen will be able to supply a crank that’s 100% compatible with this motor, we are contacting you about delivering a new set of top-of-the-range Shimano FC-EM900 cranks, the best available cranks on the market for this motor model. We want to ensure you have a reliable, high-quality product as soon as possible so that you can continue to enjoy your bike.



Oh man... So they are admitting e*13 cranks are not to be trusted, even aluminium ones...
Good to know thanks for sharing

 

[volts]

Can you post an image of what you are thinking? The problem is that the inner pinch bolt is essentially on the same plane as the chainring, so the only space to get straight down into the head of the bolt is to use a short key and approach it from the space between the 'spokes' of the chain ring. The chainring itself is slightly dished (convex), and the head of the inner pinch bolt sits basically on the chainline of the chainring, so there is no way to get a longer hex bit straight onto the bolt...

It's not perfectly square in there, but it's the best I could make work.

View attachment 84734

 

[BobR]

Hmm I don't know of a yt vid, but it's not hard.

1) unscrew the bolts (i blieve it's a 4mm hex key)
2) take out the outer most screw completely (you will see why later)
3) undo and remove the inner plastic preload thing. You need a somewhat special tool for this.
4) flip the little black plastic tap up, the one that sits at the crank in the little crack. You won't be able to do this unless you completely remove the outer most screw.
5) take off the crank arm. Inspect for damage, clean and grease.
6) put on crank arm
7) flip the plastic thing down again
8) insert screw, but do not tighten
9) preload the arm with the round plastic thing that needs a special tool. finger tighten it.
10) tighten the 2 4mm hex key bolts alternately to 14 nm, revisit each bolt a few times alternately.

So I followed the instructions exactly and used a very large flat head screw driver for the preload cap and removed the e13 dust cover and it works perfectly!

 

[Ducman71]

@volts Is that a Shimano spider/chainring? If so, I wonder if the chainline is slightly different (more inboard) than that of the original e*13 ring. Here is a pic looking straight down onto the inner pinch bolt on my bike; the chainring overlaps about half of the bolt head. Even using a socket with a long hex bit (i.e. a smaller diameter against the chainring than the extension you are using) and with the chain off, it's not possible to get straight enough onto the bolt, especially at the torque required.

 

[BobR]

@volts Is that a Shimano spider/chainring? If so, I wonder if the chainline is slightly different (more inboard) than that of the original e*13 ring. Here is a pic looking straight down onto the inner pinch bolt on my bike; the chainring overlaps about half of the bolt head. Even using a socket with a long hex bit (i.e. a smaller diameter against the chainring than the extension you are using) and with the chain off, it's not possible to get straight enough onto the bolt, especially at the torque required.

View attachment 84866

My tourque wrench set came with this and I did not even have to remove the chain

 

[Ducman71]

@BobR Thanks. I'm using the same kind of hex driver. Yes the hex can be made to go into the head of the bolt, but not straight on, and because of the angle, the hex does not go in far enough to seat fully in the head of the bolt. You can see the angle of the tool relative to the chain guide for reference. Applying 14nm of torque like this is a good way to round off the bolt head hex...

 

[volts]

Yes mine doesn't go perfectly square down the slot either, but I have had the arm off 4-5 times and torqued it to spec every time and no round bolt yet (knock on wood).

 

[Garryy]

Each bike build has a designated crankset type that works to give riders optimal performance. Mtb employ single crankset technology. With the single-ring crankset, there are fewer moving components in the machine. It provides a lighter bike weight advantageous for mtb riders climbing on specific terrains. Also, fewer adjustments are needed without the front derailleur and shifter, making the bike ride noncomplex.

 

[BengtWeil]

@BobR Thanks. I'm using the same kind of hex driver. Yes the hex can be made to go into the head of the bolt, but not straight on, and because of the angle, the hex does not go in far enough to seat fully in the head of the bolt. You can see the angle of the tool relative to the chain guide for reference. Applying 14nm of torque like this is a good way to round off the bolt head hex...

View attachment 84873

Here's another possible option that seems to work pretty well, given the angle of approach to tighten/loosen the crank bolt closest to the chainring -

 

[neilo]

Just finally got around to pulling off the e*13 alloys (which I never actually had a problem with) and installing the FC-EM900 arms. For anyone else yet to do this, one thing I noticed that I have not seen mentioned here yet is that there is not sufficient clearance to get a hex drive socket and torque wrench on the inner-most of the two pinch bolts on the right (drive) side arm. The chainring prevents anything longer than the short end of an allen key going straight into the head of the bolt when the crank arm is fully seated on the spindle. Proper torque on these bolts is important, but on that one the only option is to go by feel.

I agree this is problematic. Like the other posters who replied, I've used extended bits in my torque wrench, but it does still interfere at the chain ring and won't go in straight. I don't trust that the friction between the bit and the chain ring isn't invalidating the torque amount either. I've been resorting to comparing the feel using a regular L shaped hex key (a nice long one helps get the feel right) vs the outer one after I've torqued it up.