rmh1009
New Member
Yeah dead easy. The KS lever has got that long bend sleeve if I remember right so I just the the cable at the lever and left the housing the same length. Fed the cable into the wolf tooth and clamped it up. 5 mins.
Official Canyon EMTB Thread
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
Yeah dead easy. The KS lever has got that long bend sleeve if I remember right so I just the the cable at the lever and left the housing the same length. Fed the cable into the wolf tooth and clamped it up. 5 mins.
rmh1009
New Member
Great photo mate. Good to see some footage from it if possible. On my list of definites to visit one day.
Justchillin
New Member
did you fit the e6000 mode switch to,as with my e8000 mode switch i’m going to get the right lever as not to foul the switches on the e8000
The e6000 mode switch allows you to run an under bar dropper remote in the position you want, rather than have to deal with a mess of levers. It is simple to install as you just have to unplug the e8000 and plug in the e6000. I have used mine with a variety of dropper levers - imo the One Up dropper lever works best in terms of performance and also keeping clear of the switch in order to avoid accidentally switching modes when reaching for the dropper lever.
rmh1009
New Member
Yes mate. Easy to pull out the E8000 cable from the display unit and plus the new E6000 one in. First ride I found my thumb hovering over the new switch and accidentally changed modes a few times but been fine since. I don't toggle through the screen options much (not that interested in numbers like cadence etc really) but sometimes handy to range or something so the third button is a plus I think. Only tried the wolf tooth which works well for me but I'd listen to @R120 . Looks like he's tried quite a few options.
Justchillin
New Member
I’ve just been googling and i like your set up?
Not so keen on the e7000 witch looks a bit bulky and not so sure i’d get the dropper lever as perfect as your set up.
The E7000 isn't that bulky actually. It's a bit wider than the E6000, but smaller in width/height. I've been happy with the E6000 because it's got a menu button. But I'm starting to appreciate the E7000, it's more flush on the handlebar and looks better. I've never had any issues operating it, never missed a button or pushed the wrong one. That happens with the E6000.
The only advantage of the E6000 is the menu button. I think it's nice when connecting the E8000 motor to the phone. On the E7000 motor it seems you don't need to push anything on the bike controls to connect. So I'm not missing the menu button with the E7000 motor.
The only advantage of the E6000 is the menu button. I think it's nice when connecting the E8000 motor to the phone. On the E7000 motor it seems you don't need to push anything on the bike controls to connect. So I'm not missing the menu button with the E7000 motor.
rmh1009
New Member
Yeah that switch does look good. I don't often use the menu button but it is handy. I'll possibly try the new one if the E6000 packs in but I'm pretty happy with it as it is for now. I reckon I leave it in trail for about 95% of the ride anyway. Ridden the same loop a few times using a mixture of eco - trail and then all trail and it hardly seems to affect the battery range at all. Right dropper lever is most important I think. Had a couple of wolftooths and they're really good. PNW one looks nice as well though.
Justchillin
New Member
All ordered e6000 switch and wolf lever thanks for your help ?
From my testing the PNW one is slightly better put together than the Woolftooth, and cheaper too, but not much in it. Also really like the rubber pad on the lever. I though the quality of the grub screws etc was better as those on my WT burred pretty easily.
Key to both of them, and the One Up, is the use of a big bearing for the lever to pivot on, which makes them much smoother in movement, but also have very little play.
The main issue with both PNW and WT is that because they sit close to the bar, they limit the range of positioning if used with the E6000, because they can rub the cable from the e6000 to the display, as the cable exits at the bottom of the E6000, and my concern was damaging the cable.
This means you have to jiggle around the various bits and bobs to get no rubbing, what inevitably means something might not end up in quite the position you want it to. Depending on where you like your contols this may not be an issue, but something to be aware of. You can see it in this pic with the WT.The main issue is you have to rotate the e6000 to always be in line with the dropper lever or vice versa.
I found the One Up mounted using a Sram MMX to my brakes gave the best operation, and also ability to get everything where i wanted as it sits a bit lower off the bars so doesn't foul anything. I run my levers pretty far inboard which also doesn't help getting everything where i like it, and using an MMX or an I-Spec adapter really helps. I think mounting the WT or PNW this way would also help, but PNW don't make an adapter yet, and when i got the WT i could only find the conventionally clamped one in stock.
You can see the cable in the attached pic with WT Remote. You will see I'm my earlier post that when i fitted the PNW and One Up i moved the controller further along the bar to prevent accidental pushes of it when reaching for the dropper remote. One of the best things about the One Up lever is it replicates the positioning fo a shift lever, and actually sits further under the bars, whereas most levers end up sitting in line with the e6000 controllers buttons making it easier to accidentally change the mode when reaching for the dropper lever. One Up's positioning makes this very hard to accidentally do.
Key to both of them, and the One Up, is the use of a big bearing for the lever to pivot on, which makes them much smoother in movement, but also have very little play.
The main issue with both PNW and WT is that because they sit close to the bar, they limit the range of positioning if used with the E6000, because they can rub the cable from the e6000 to the display, as the cable exits at the bottom of the E6000, and my concern was damaging the cable.
This means you have to jiggle around the various bits and bobs to get no rubbing, what inevitably means something might not end up in quite the position you want it to. Depending on where you like your contols this may not be an issue, but something to be aware of. You can see it in this pic with the WT.The main issue is you have to rotate the e6000 to always be in line with the dropper lever or vice versa.
I found the One Up mounted using a Sram MMX to my brakes gave the best operation, and also ability to get everything where i wanted as it sits a bit lower off the bars so doesn't foul anything. I run my levers pretty far inboard which also doesn't help getting everything where i like it, and using an MMX or an I-Spec adapter really helps. I think mounting the WT or PNW this way would also help, but PNW don't make an adapter yet, and when i got the WT i could only find the conventionally clamped one in stock.
You can see the cable in the attached pic with WT Remote. You will see I'm my earlier post that when i fitted the PNW and One Up i moved the controller further along the bar to prevent accidental pushes of it when reaching for the dropper remote. One of the best things about the One Up lever is it replicates the positioning fo a shift lever, and actually sits further under the bars, whereas most levers end up sitting in line with the e6000 controllers buttons making it easier to accidentally change the mode when reaching for the dropper lever. One Up's positioning makes this very hard to accidentally do.
rmh1009
New Member
Yeah agree you do have to adjust the angle of the switch to keep the cable out the way. Mine is mounted to my brake lever using the i spec clamp. Not tried it with a conventional clamp. Hope it does fit for you @Justchillin . ? Few mm clearance with mine and all torqued up it doesn't move or flex at all so hasn't caught of rubbed at all. I did read a few comments about rounding off bolts etc so I stayed at the max torque in the instructions and thankfully did have a problem. Feels a smooth and solid lever. Second one I bought is the light action version. Should've mentioned that before maybe. Might help with the clearance.
Looks like the MMX mount moves the lever slightly further away from the bars than the standard clamp.
The PNW was the tightest to the bars.
Anyone buying one its a great lever, i am just one of those people who cant stop tweaking a bike!
The PNW was the tightest to the bars.
Anyone buying one its a great lever, i am just one of those people who cant stop tweaking a bike!
Justchillin
New Member
I didn’t go for the LA version as on the wolf site they recomended the normal one 10mm shorter, which one did you find works best and also your a bit greedy having two ?
rmh1009
New Member
Ah sorry mate. Slipped my mind when your first asked. I found because the LA version is longer it cleared the switch better. Think the standard would work but might be tighter. I sold the standard one on eBay. If I had it I'd try it out for you. Easy enough to order the LA and return the standard?
Justchillin
New Member
O cheers for that i’ve emailed them to tell them to send the LA version
Justchillin
New Member
Sorted there sending me the LA, thx for the help again ?
Also my mates just bought a 2019 kenevo expert i hope i don’t like it to much when i have a go ££££?
Justchillin
New Member
How many of you have upped the travel to 160mm mines got the lyric and just wondered is it worth it
rmh1009
New Member
I just bought a new debonair air shaft but kept it 150mm. Haven't needed more travel myself. Bike feels perfect to me so didn't want to change anything. 160mm on @Clansey 8.0 I think. Think he gets more airborne than me as well so probably suits him.
Installed the dropper remote etc yet?
Justchillin
New Member
I must admit i do like to do the odd jump or two and hit some rough stuff at speed which pro answers my question really.
Yes all fitted and perfect, i’m not one for copying but your set up with the wolf tooth looked spot on?What an improvement inc the mode switch
Yeah I have the 160mm fox 36 on mine. Personally I wouldn't change a 150mm to 160mm. Play to the strengths of the ebike. 160mm affects technical climbing too much.
On other news I finally got my graphics card back and I am currently uploading a video from my Lake District trip. The bike took a real beating ?
Justchillin
New Member
I did wonder if the 160mm and slightly slacker head angle may slightly upset climbing a touch, as now i have a 10mm shorter stem on mine and on steep climbs have to get my weight well over the front.
Never been to the lakes in my life, it will have to be done next year
Hello
I've updated at my 7.0 from 150 to 160 Debon Air. I challenged a steeeep climb around the corner right after the upgrade to compare directly and found no noticeable difference. If you leave the SAG at 30% it is only 7mm difference. Judging all the other variables on such steeeeep climbs, where you would expect a difference, like ground conditions, grip, balance capability, active weight distribution, specific form on that day ---- I think everything have more influence than this 7mm.
I'm currently not happy with the Debon Air.
In the area of low stroke its very sensitive. It is so sensitive, that even the weight of the bike brings already 10% SAG. If you want to have the 30% SAG again, you have to increase the pressure about 10 to 15PSI. This influences the progression. I had to remove two of three spacers from before and it could be still too progressive.
So at the moment I didn't find the right setup.
Bye
I've updated at my 7.0 from 150 to 160 Debon Air. I challenged a steeeep climb around the corner right after the upgrade to compare directly and found no noticeable difference. If you leave the SAG at 30% it is only 7mm difference. Judging all the other variables on such steeeeep climbs, where you would expect a difference, like ground conditions, grip, balance capability, active weight distribution, specific form on that day ---- I think everything have more influence than this 7mm.
I'm currently not happy with the Debon Air.
In the area of low stroke its very sensitive. It is so sensitive, that even the weight of the bike brings already 10% SAG. If you want to have the 30% SAG again, you have to increase the pressure about 10 to 15PSI. This influences the progression. I had to remove two of three spacers from before and it could be still too progressive.
So at the moment I didn't find the right setup.
Bye
Last edited:
It was a brilliant day out despite the weather. the bike took a real beating but seemed fine until the very end when all sorts of noises were coming from it. I still haven't had a chance to get back out on it to test properly. Hopefully no motor issues, I should be able to resolve the rest
rmh1009
New Member
Thought it was a definite OTB 9:45. Wet day out. ?
Yeah very wet day out. Most of the trail was a stream. Lots of good footage ruined by mud / water on the lens but it was brilliant ?
Polaris
Active member
2019 models are to be announced soon, I'm refreshing their website hourly atm lol
I'd be surprised if they have a new ebike
drjarvis2003
Well-known member
Spectral on, will stay the same but i suspect there will be a new Strive on, although i dont think it will be announced until after the 24th November.
Polaris
Active member
From the horses mouth, new Ebikes announced within the month
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