Other New wheels on Levo SL- forgot about the darn speed sensor

F4Flyer

Member
Sep 30, 2020
113
54
Denver
Built a new set of wheels- Center Lock Chris King hubs and H2S rotors. Well, you already know what happened. With no magnet, it threw an error code and I have no power. I see Shimano makes some rotors with speed sensors but not sure if that will work. They are not easily available yet. Is there a good solution besides putting the old rear wheel back on?
 

KnollyBro

E*POWAH Elite
Dec 3, 2020
870
2,147
Vancouver
Built a new set of wheels- Center Lock Chris King hubs and H2S rotors. Well, you already know what happened. With no magnet, it threw an error code and I have no power. I see Shimano makes some rotors with speed sensors but not sure if that will work. They are not easily available yet. Is there a good solution besides putting the old rear wheel back on?
I feel for you Bro! Being an expert at swapping wheelsets over between bikes and forgetting to swap the speed sensing magnet over, I decided to make my own. Unfortunately, the stock magnet seems to require a pretty exact height and/or guass value as the neodeum magnet I put on did not work consistently and kept giving me an error code.
If you are handy, you might be able to get something like this to work with your original magnet.

 

Gw0175

Active member
Aug 30, 2020
146
228
Scotland
You can buy adapters to convert your centrelock to 6 bolt and just put your old disc back on? If you need a link I'll fire it your way 👍🏻
 

F4Flyer

Member
Sep 30, 2020
113
54
Denver
Not sure the adapter I looked at will work. I looked at one. If possible, link me to the one you're thinking about. I know Shimano makes rotors that have the magnet/sensor. I am not sure it has the same specs as the Specialized one. The adapter is the cheapest option. I can live with that if it works.
 

dfkenevo

Active member
Aug 13, 2018
69
162
Truckee, Ca
Had same issue with ChrisKing hub center lock. I ended using the stock magnet glued to the rotor. I tried without glue and I didn’t loose it but just to be safe……
One other thing is you might have to put locktite on the center lock ring, it was constantly getting loose and it was driving me nuts until I figure out that was the ring.
 

dfkenevo

Active member
Aug 13, 2018
69
162
Truckee, Ca
I forgot. I did try the Shimano lock ring with magnet but didn’t work. The magnet needs to be close to the sensor. You can add a thin magnet on top and it will work.
 

Bicyclenut

Member
Jul 9, 2022
16
17
Fresno
I too put Chris King wheels on my Levo SL and ran into the same problem. Specialized does make a center lock ring with a magnet, but wont fit on the CK hub. I had bought Shimano center lock rotors. In the cut out of the rotor spider I put a round magnet from an old cateye computer magnet, the kind that screw onto a spoke....I also put a nylon locking nut on the backside. Works flawless!

Screen Shot 2022-07-31 at 5.21.58 PM.png
 
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boBE

Active member
Apr 12, 2020
415
361
FL
For magnets K and J Magnetics (kjmagnetics.com) has just about any size/shape of neo magnets we might want. Some of the countersunk ones are likely candidates for speed sensor applications.
 

F4Flyer

Member
Sep 30, 2020
113
54
Denver
I too put Chris King wheels on my Levo SL and ran into the same problem. Specialized does make a center lock ring with a magnet, but wont fit on the CK hub. I had bought Shimano center lock rotors. In the cut out of the rotor spider I put a round magnet from an old cateye computer magnet, the kind that screw onto a spoke....I also put a nylon locking nut on the backside. Works flawless!

View attachment 93676
Did you use the XTR rotor? I think the XT may have the same cutouts but not sure. I assume you are referring to one of the small holes above the lock ring area. is that right?
 

lumpy

🚁 CHOPPER 🚁
Nov 26, 2018
468
441
SF Bay Area
I faced the same issue with a wheel a while back. Got some neodymium magnets from my local hardware store and stuck them on my rotor. One on each side and used superglue to play it safe.
 

sdcoffeeroaster

Active member
Jul 22, 2018
557
206
San Diego, CA
So those of you that have put quicker engaging freewheels on, is there enough advantage given that the motor has its own coarse engagement? I do miss the quick, easy to ratchet engagement I had with I9 wheels on my analog bike. I now have the 36t dt swiss 350 straight pull hub engagement with a set of CF Specialized wheels I bought. They are light and seem pretty rugged for XC wheels but the engagement is only 10 deg. I've thought of trying the 54t star ratchet for my 350 hub but have read they don't recommend them for ebikes given the extra torque. Any thoughts? Thanks
 

St4nley

Well-known member
Subscriber
Nov 17, 2020
160
328
Derbyshire
So those of you that have put quicker engaging freewheels on, is there enough advantage given that the motor has its own coarse engagement? I do miss the quick, easy to ratchet engagement I had with I9 wheels on my analog bike. I now have the 36t dt swiss 350 straight pull hub engagement with a set of CF Specialized wheels I bought. They are light and seem pretty rugged for XC wheels but the engagement is only 10 deg. I've thought of trying the 54t star ratchet for my 350 hub but have read they don't recommend them for ebikes given the extra torque. Any thoughts? Thanks
Interesting… as I have read this somewhere also regarding the extra torque, but I have been riding i9 Hydra’s on my Levo Sl and am about to swap them over to my Rail after having a conversation with a bike shop in the Lake District UK that build wheels for full fat ebikes with the I9 Hydra’s so I’m not expecting any issues, also I have been using 108 point pick up on my Bontrager hubs on my Rail with no issues either.
 

sdcoffeeroaster

Active member
Jul 22, 2018
557
206
San Diego, CA
Interesting… as I have read this somewhere also regarding the extra torque, but I have been riding i9 Hydra’s on my Levo Sl and am about to swap them over to my Rail after having a conversation with a bike shop in the Lake District UK that build wheels for full fat ebikes with the I9 Hydra’s so I’m not expecting any issues, also I have been using 108 point pick up on my Bontrager hubs on my Rail with no issues either.
I figure the I9 should be OK. It's the aluminum DT Swiss 54t that might not handle the torque. Can you get quick engagement in spite of motors more coarse internal engagement (don't know what it is but can't be more than 10 deg internally). Just trying to figure if it makes enough difference with an ebike. Ratcheting to use the motor torque to get up a small rock or curb is more difficult (with the DT Swiss 36t) than it was with my old Anthem with I9's (which were very quick) for instance. Thanks
 

St4nley

Well-known member
Subscriber
Nov 17, 2020
160
328
Derbyshire
The Bontrager 108 engagement with 6 pawls is noticeably quicker than the 3 pawls the wheels came with as stock from Trek, most noticeable on technical climbs when having to do short back pedal strokes, which we have plenty of in the Peak district UK where I live.
 

sdcoffeeroaster

Active member
Jul 22, 2018
557
206
San Diego, CA
The SL doesn't produce the boost/torque the larger motors generate and at 73 yrs old I don't produce the torque a fit younger rider generates either so maybe the 54t (6.6 deg instead of 10) might be worth a try. I think the 36t ratchet in the 350 is also aluminum like the 54t but larger teeth of course. I did have the Hybrid 350 24t on my Focus before I sold it and it's really made for a large motor ebike. I never tried any ratcheting moves with that one since it was so coarse @ 15 deg. I did some searching here and I think I just have to periodically check for chips and wear if using the 54t and probably the 36t as well.
The Bontrager 108 engagement with 6 pawls is noticeably quicker than the 3 pawls the wheels came with as stock from Trek, most noticeable on technical climbs when having to do short back pedal strokes, which we have plenty of in the Peak district UK where I live.
Yes pedal back situations or ratcheting moves are what I'm looking to improve. The I9 was pretty amazing at this but could not get the weight down like these Specialized CF wheels without spending a whole lot more on the I9's (like $1000. more). These Spec wheels are only 1450g too Roval Control 29 Carbon 6B XD | Specialized.com
 

Pauliemon

Active member
Sep 14, 2020
211
310
Northern California, USA
I did the same. Built a new wheelset, jumped on the bike,...WTF! Oh yeah the efing magnet. Soooo,...
20220802_090814.jpg

It works! But until I got the mag rotor I did this,

20220802_090915.jpg

Yeah I know, I know scarey. I checked it about 20 times every ride. I used it probably half dozen times no problem. I got the mag rotor no problem. I've tried to get another for my spare wheels with no luck. Like you said not readily available.
 

St4nley

Well-known member
Subscriber
Nov 17, 2020
160
328
Derbyshire
Yes pedal back situations or ratcheting moves are what I'm looking to improve. The I9 was pretty amazing at this but could not get the weight down like these Specialized CF wheels without spending a whole lot more on the I9's (like $1000. more). These Spec wheels are only 1450g too Roval Control 29 Carbon 6B XD | Specialized.com
This is also interesting as I was concerned about putting my Reserve SL wheels with the i9’s on my Trek Rail (from my Levo SL) that weigh 1780g with J bend spokes but as you are considering 1450g carbon wheels with straight pull spokes I feel I should be fine.
 

F4Flyer

Member
Sep 30, 2020
113
54
Denver
The lock rings did not work (as mentioned above). They don't fit onto the Chris King hub. I ended up using a Cateye wheel sensor on a (rotor swap) XTR rotor that replaced my SRAM HS2. Yeah, bummer. Thanks Bicyclenut, for the pics. Do you recall what size nyloc nut you used? I currently have the VCateye black plastic piece but that will prob come loose eventually.
 

ChrisBrand

Member
Nov 18, 2020
12
3
Pretoria
Hi I solved this issue quite easily, I had built a second wheel on a Shimano hub with centre lock. I simply took off the magnet and placed it as per the pics. Marked the centre of the holes, drilled through the aluminium with a 4 mm drill then tapped the new thread using a 5x 0,8 tap and the fastened the magent with new M5 cheese head screws. It’s a 2 min job now if I change wheels to take the magnet off from one wheel to another

4112147A-1E66-4B4A-A990-5D185E2D5AC3.jpeg


CB4D26D1-3171-4B18-82E7-A53BF91ED888.jpeg


7091A5E3-8A0B-4F4C-B170-752DDCCDF2A5.jpeg


158D1733-034F-47A9-A0B8-25C87C3D4F24.jpeg
 

boBE

Active member
Apr 12, 2020
415
361
FL
Hi I solved this issue quite easily, I had built a second wheel on a Shimano hub with centre lock. I simply took off the magnet and placed it as per the pics. Marked the centre of the holes, drilled through the aluminium with a 4 mm drill then tapped the new thread using a 5x 0,8 tap and the fastened the magent with new M5 cheese head screws. It’s a 2 min job now if I change wheels to take the magnet off from one wheel to another

View attachment 94199

View attachment 94200

View attachment 94201

View attachment 94202
*That's* the way! My mantra is "everything must be modified"! Nice work.
 

Bicyclenut

Member
Jul 9, 2022
16
17
Fresno
Do you recall what size nyloc nut you used? I currently have the VCateye black plastic piece but that will prob come loose eventually.
Im sorry I dont remember the size of the nut. I just took the magnet to my local hardware store and found one that screwed on.
 

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