New Rockshox Zeb Fork

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From 150 to 180 on the same fork with a just a click turn? That’s a nice feature men two forks in one
 
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Is that a 2021 Kenevo in the vid, the red bike?
 
wondering if the adjustable fork will be a nice addition to the Decoy as you can master up the climbs better (common complaint for the Decoy) then blast down the backside. 180 seems to be the preferred travel down, then going to 150 will keep the front down a bit for the climbs. Decoy owners, thoughts?
 
nickfrog said:
Not sure but I think it's a business that make excellent suspension parts for mountain bikes (forks and shocks).
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My experience is that they spend a lot more time being repaired than Fox components - and I prefer to be riding.
 
Eddy Current said:
From 150 to 180 on the same fork with a just a click turn? That’s a nice feature men two forks in one
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Not really. It's only for climbing but it can make a difference if you struggle with the front end lifting or losing steering. Fox used to make a TALAS* fork (may still do, I haven't looked) that could swap from 140 to 110 at the flick of a lever (maybe also a 160-130). So it's the same 30 mm adjustment option. It was handy at first and there were a few short and steep climbs where it helped, but I soon got the hang of climbing them without having to risk leaning down to move the lever. In the end I stopped using it. The downside of the TALAS system was that I could not tune the air spring by adding tokens or even by adding oil other than a very small amount that would have little effect. I wonder if the dual position Rockshox offering stop the addition of tokens?

*(TALAS = Travel Adjust Linear Air System, I think)
 
Rob Hancill said:

A look at the different options including the EMTB specific Zeb forks
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@Rob Hancill would love to hear how the Zeb compares to the boxxer on the Kenevo. You hinted in your video you would compare the two forks but I dont think you got to it in the end. Great video nonetheless, love your new studio and quality!
 
If you’re bike came with 150mm of travel won’t 180mm forks impact the handling? How does that work?
 
Fingerpuk said:
If you’re bike came with 150mm of travel won’t 180mm forks impact the handling? How does that work?
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Its really designed to be the other way round, they are a 180mm fork that can be dropped to 150mm when climbing, so designed for a bigger travel bike.
 
RickBullotta said:
My experience is that they spend a lot more time being repaired than Fox components - and I prefer to be riding.
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I can't fault the Lyrik that's on the Kenevo although the Fox 38e would be preferable having not only 180 mm travel but also has a floating axle & many other new features.

Explore 38 E-Bike Forks | FOX

technology-3638-floatingaxle.jpg


masthead-right-38e.png
 
I'll definitely buy an entry level 160mm ZEB to upgrade my 150mm Yari on the Decoy. I was going to get a £40 160mm new style Debonair spring anyway :)...
I just need the price to be down to around £600 from £679 RRP. If I can sell the Yari for £250/£300 then that's a cheap upgrade as I have "saved" £1,000 by not going for the £5k Decoy with the 36, although that would have bought other bits too of course...
 
skypickle said:
What is a floating axle and y should I care?
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If your hub is say 109mm not 110mm, then tightening down the axle would pull the ends of the fork together and as you go into the travel the stantions would also have to bend or at least fight against slightly misaligned bushings. Is it really an issue? is guess no for most hubs and most peoples level of sensitivity, not to mention most people wont bolt it up following the correct procedure anyway and actually make the fork worse. I think also there must be an element of fork stiffness to the design, doing up the pinch bolt may reduce twisting of the lowers better than a loose axle hole and relying on the axle being given the correct preload by the user.

FYI, the first 26" pikes had a floating axle design, the 20mm axle had a shoulder which tightened against the hub, then when you flicked the lever it used an expanding wedge to hold the axle in place and also prevent the right hand fork leg floating on the axle. Few people used those right, always yanking on the fork leg to close the QR, which mean the fork leg was not in its natural position and would bind through the travel. You couldnt really tell though as those were 32mm stantions back then.
 
RS torque caps are their "solution" to the same issue of stiffening up the fork at the bottom. Have to say I installed them after going to a 223mm front rotor asn they definitely made a difference, as the bigger rotor really excavates the forces down there.
 
thank you for trying to explain it to me but i am not getting the 'floating' part. I understand the concept of a mismatched fork width and hub width. so if you fork is wider then your hub, your front wheel might not be held snug against the fork and wander back and forth on the axle. I would fix this with some big washers. What is floating on the fork to correct this?


Torque caps (What are Torque Caps? - NOBL) seem simply to be an adapter that allows a thinner axle to fit on a bigger dropout. How that translates to 'improved stiffness', I cannot understand - the use of a thinner axle would seem to cause more flex not less than using a thicker axle to match the bigger dropouts.
 
No torque caps are end caps for the wheel hub that have a larger surface area, meaning “in theory” the connection between the hub, axle and fork is stronger, stiffer and flex less. They have nothing to do with axle size.
 
skypickle said:
thank you for trying to explain it to me but i am not getting the 'floating' part. I understand the concept of a mismatched fork width and hub width. so if you fork is wider then your hub, your front wheel might not be held snug against the fork and wander back and forth on the axle. I would fix this with some big washers. What is floating on the fork to correct this?


Torque caps (What are Torque Caps? - NOBL) seem simply to be an adapter that allows a thinner axle to fit on a bigger dropout. How that translates to 'improved stiffness', I cannot understand - the use of a thinner axle would seem to cause more flex not less than using a thicker axle to match the bigger dropouts.
Click to expand...

Its a floating sleeve the axle goes through. First Ride: Fox's New 38 Fork - Pond Beaver 2020 - Pinkbike

Torqe caps are a way to make the axle 'effectively' larger, without need to actually have a larger axle, and hence bearings and hub, which equals more weight.
 
R120 said:
No torque caps are end caps for the wheel hub that have a larger surface area, meaning “in theory” the connection between the hub, axle and fork is stronger, stiffer and flex less. They have nothing to do with axle size.
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gotcha. but the torque is still transmitted through the wheel hub to the tire. Imagine if the dropouts were the size of a brake rotor- that would not make the fork stiffer. To spread out the stress of the hub, you need a larger dropout AND a larger hub so the CONTACT AREA is greater. no?
 
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