New 2025 Wild

You are right, everybody has different approach to such issues and I'm honestly happy for others who are not bothered by such things. For me, 6 months of riding a bike (because I did ride it for 6 months with the issue as it was since day 1 basically) that made your pocket lighther with 10K EUR, and not even getting a firm delivery date for a replacement frame is not really something I could swallow. Thats the reason I requested a refund and opted out of the bike.

And sadly I read many many terrible experiences with Orbea's customer service and warranty support even here and on other forums. Still I was attracted by the bike so much I went for it, and then I have experienced all that sh*t myself. I guess you only really learn from your own mistakes.

Again, otherwise the bike could be awesome! I made the switch to a Yeti LTe which is awesome so far and really high quality.

I had 2 frame warranty issues in the past 20+ years of riding, both with Specialized. Both was replaced in 2 weeks after the issue was confirmed. This is something you would expect from a premium brand.

BTW the issue was, the inside of the seattube had a rough surface on the carbon where the toptube connected to it, in the inside, and despite trying to make a smooth surface by the dealer, greasing the shit out of it, getting multiple seatpost replaced it was just simply not working and always "damaging" the surface of the seatpost. Making terrible noise while pedalling.

I also had other small issues (that is not supposed to happen either): motor cover touching rubbing the motor, rear brake cable guide on the chainstay breaking, rear axle constantly getting loose on factory torque spec, headset cable routing (that was expected).

By no means I want to throw a shade on anybody and on Orbea, just posted my own experience as a reply for a question. Have a great day to all!
 
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Damn, that’s a long wait from Orbea. I’m about three months into this warranty claim now, and last week the Orbea distributor in my country asked me which color and size I want for either a Wild ST or a Wild H20.
My current Wild is a 2021 model, so I’m honestly pretty stoked that I might be getting a brand-new one. But damn… six months.
Hope you get it soon! 🤞 Every case is different - may be I really got on the wrong end here.
 
This is my new steed. 2026 M10. I got it ex-display for a really good price. I had some good luck for a change.

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Came with Performance suspension, I went with the Ohlins coil and put a Grip X2 damper in the fork. This was first ride on the new bouncy bits today. Rides great already. I bought Otter's tuning guide for the fork which honestly could just be a forum post but I'm happy to support his channel. I followed that which was quite different to what I would have done for the X2, and it went well. Bottom'd it out a couple of time so just need to work out whether more damp or token is best. Seems like damp for the X2.

The shock is sweet. I haven't got as far as tuning it but straight away feels great and matches the fork well too. First time I've had MTB Ohlins, used to love it on my Tuono...

Other than that I put on Kryptotal DH tires and a Fox Transfer seat post I already had -it's 180 but that's actually perfect for me on this.

I really love how this bike is still fun on regular trails, and still agile - it does not ride like an Enduro pig at all. I saw that in the reviews of course but it's still surprised me.

Today I rode wholly in standard 85/600 EMTB mode (non-plus) and it was great. Just don't need to use EMTB+ and the bigger numbers. I had 62% remaining after the same ride I had 52% remaining in the souped up mode. There's still plenty of grunt in EMTB but's more controllable and encourages a bit more of push through the quads. Just don't need more. Will leave it with just emtb and eco+ selectable. ECO+ is just in case I get anxiety and want to be frugal getting back one day. I don't actually have the remote on the bar. Doesn't seem to matter where I put it I somehow hit it by accident.

Should have just bought this when they came out. Would have saved me a few bike swaps :rolleyes:

I had the first FS in alloy, H10. The main issue was it was too short. No such issue here.
 
Figured I'd just post my build in case anyone wanted to draw anything from it. I still believe that I made the best choice for my needs in spite of the fact that there is a new sleeker Wild being released very soon with the Avinox motor.

2026 Orbea Wild Carbon Fiber CX-R motor & 600 wh battery. Large. I paid $7.1K for it new to my door. It was a custom ordered M20. I stripped off all the basic parts and installed them on my Relay to sell off and used my old good parts on the new Wild.

Weight 48.7#s/ 22.1 Kgs. This weight includes a coil shock, dual DH wheels, dual DH tires, electronic dropper & electronic shifting (includes pedals, sealant, temporary sag indicator & bottle holder)


Fork is a EDITED Mezzer G2 LT and it weighs 2250 grams with axle and fender installed. Rear shock is an Avy Bomber CR coil with a 450# SAR spring. It weighs 799 grams.

Wheels are Crankbrothers Synthesis DH/ E-bike MX rims with Sapim flat spokes and OneUp Hubs. These came in lighter than expected at 988g rear & 854g front. This was a full 254 grams lighter than the published weight all saved from the spokes and hubs. Tires are a big weight penalty, Albert 2.6 gravity in the rear weighs 1340 grams. My front Mazza Race 2.6 weighs 1420 grams. A put a lot of sealant in there, so I guess about 250 grams more in Orange Sealant. This is the best tire set up I’ve ever ridden.

WheelTop Electronic Shifting weighs 472 grams on my scale all in. This was only 46 grams more than an 11-speed mechanical shifting. Impressive!

X01 11 speed cassette weighs 274 grams on my scale. That’s a big weight saver, all steel, and perfect for an e-bike. Highly recommended.

Swapped over a Carbonwolf bash plate and at 97 grams it saved 46 grams. I bought this not to save weight and I had hoped it was thicker. Shuttle guard added about 40 grams I think.

Pedals are Newmen Beskars. Easily the best pedals I’ve ever had and only 295 grams. Cranks are E13 machined 155s. They only weighed like 5 grams less than the stock cheap ones.

Brakes are Dominion T4s, at 250 grams each. Rotors are Magura MDR-P, 220mm front weighs 240 grams, plus about 35 grams for the 40mm spacer. The rear rotor is the 200mm version so only weighs 216 grams.

My SQlabs saddle is heavy at 200 grams. Love them! The AXS 200 mm dropper with remote weighs 791 grams; that’s a pretty good weight penalty however I do enjoy it.

Bars are OneUp CF, about 230 grams. Renthal push on grips are 104 grams/ set. Spank stem,140 grams. Stock bottle cage about 30 grams, I guess.

I do carry a pack of tools in the bottle holder that weighs 300 grams, but it wasn’t weighed with this. I’ve given up on just carrying a single hydration bottle. Doesn’t work for me.

Places to save weight without removing functionality, are limited: Some Ti shock spring options out there could save 30-70 grams, but I'm too concerned with inconsistency to risk that. Plummet’s Bosch motor mounts save around 70 grams I think but are also the only thing holding the entire motor and cranks in, no thanks. I could save a solid 200 grams just running a standard Mezzer, but I wanted the more rigid unit. I'll only run a coil shock on an AM e-bike, they just work better and the weight is in the ideal place anyways. Still, it’s a heck of a weight for the build imo.

I just installed the new Mezzer G2 LT fork. It clears the underside of the Large frame with no knock block needed.

Probably about an extra 100 grams in nylon strap and sag indicator, but otherwise this is my Wild weight.

I'll predict right now that the new Avinox versions are commonly going to be 53-56#s with the 800wh battery & DH tires but I won't blame the new frame or the motor system. It'll be the builds.

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