Ok i eventually got the dropper working. required a bit of macgyvering. Basically The screw in the barrel was too short and wouldnt screw in far enough for the cable diameter, it was pulling through the lever when i would go to activate it. I didnt have a longer screw with the same thread/size so I cut some metal, dropped it in and screwed the screw back in, gave it a bit more length so now its holding strong. The dropper is a cheap POS. The action is crazy. Not sure if anyone has seen a dropper that activates by the cable sheath ‘pushing’ up on the activation mechanism, but thats how this one works. I’m looking at replacing it if i have ANY trouble whatsoever. Last thing i want to worry about on the trail is the dropper being stranded at a certain height.
My Aussie Cheeb
- Thread starter Wax
- Start date
Ok i eventually got the dropper working. required a bit of macgyvering. Basically The screw in the barrel was too short and wouldnt screw in far enough for the cable diameter, it was pulling through the lever when i would go to activate it. I didnt have a longer screw with the same thread/size so I cut some metal, dropped it in and screwed the screw back in, gave it a bit more length so now its holding strong. The dropper is a cheap POS. The action is crazy. Not sure if anyone has seen a dropper that activates by the cable sheath ‘pushing’ up on the activation mechanism, but thats how this one works. I’m looking at replacing it if i have ANY trouble whatsoever. Last thing i want to worry about on the trail is the dropper being stranded at a certain height.
Spares - what has anyone got on deck for this frame?
I wouldnt mind getting a full bearing set for the frame. Has anyone got spares of these? I’m not sure which joints have bearings in them, without unscrewing stuff. Guessing you would need to order another set off bafang though.
I’m chasing volition for a spare derailleur hanger.
Headset parts?
I’m on holidays for a full week, but i plan to do some single track after i get back. Will be the first real ride on some tough stuff. I’ll say this though, the extra weight of an ebike seems to give so more more stability, especially in the air
That gets me to another question regarding carbon frames - what carriers are ya’ll using? I need to get a new one and I’m thinking one where the wheels are on a solid platform. I have one of those hangers that grab the top tube for my previous alloy bikes. Dont want to use that to lug it around, they are EXXY as hell though.
I wouldnt mind getting a full bearing set for the frame. Has anyone got spares of these? I’m not sure which joints have bearings in them, without unscrewing stuff. Guessing you would need to order another set off bafang though.
I’m chasing volition for a spare derailleur hanger.
Headset parts?
I’m on holidays for a full week, but i plan to do some single track after i get back. Will be the first real ride on some tough stuff. I’ll say this though, the extra weight of an ebike seems to give so more more stability, especially in the air
That gets me to another question regarding carbon frames - what carriers are ya’ll using? I need to get a new one and I’m thinking one where the wheels are on a solid platform. I have one of those hangers that grab the top tube for my previous alloy bikes. Dont want to use that to lug it around, they are EXXY as hell though.
thaeber
Well-known member
The Bafang Go App is almost useless in my opinion. But: Whenever they may develop something better, You are ready with the BT option.
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Elite
The concept of the App is very good with the BT of the DC241 doing exactly what should be expected of a modern digital integration between motor and display. But for some reason Bafang have locked out only the motor upgrade side and also not expanded the application to match other manufacturers. Rather than upgrade the display would you not be better to use an old mobile phone as a display, it will talk to the motor OK via the 241 display and would give you proper Nav as well. There are some really good protective phone cases and some of the rugged phones are probably cheaper than a display.
I would almost put a bet down of a pint of beer that the Bafang Go has everything there ready to go but Bafang have locked it out. Are there any App developers out there on the forum that could take a peak ?
I would almost put a bet down of a pint of beer that the Bafang Go has everything there ready to go but Bafang have locked it out. Are there any App developers out there on the forum that could take a peak ?
Being able to OTA the motor and other peripheral firmware would be amazing! Does anyone update firmware themselves using BESST? If so care to share your experience.
@Waynemarlow the more i think about it the better it would be to have a small bike display with BT and have your mobile phone connected when you need it, for nav especially as you suggest.
Cheers - I‘llsee if i can get hold of a 241. Makes sense to get that over a 240 if I’m going to the trouble of getting a new display.
@Waynemarlow the more i think about it the better it would be to have a small bike display with BT and have your mobile phone connected when you need it, for nav especially as you suggest.
Cheers - I‘llsee if i can get hold of a 241. Makes sense to get that over a 240 if I’m going to the trouble of getting a new display.
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Elite
The 241 is actually a good display size if you have good eyesight, with just a few simple changes in the way it displays data ( make every data type able to be displayed as the main middle row ) then even the poorer short sighted such as myself could read it. It sits down well under the handlebar and is quite discreet, has BT which actually links to the motor and mobile phones, what more could you want for.
Sadly it just needs real riders to talk to the developers and its problems could be sorted really quickly.
Sadly it just needs real riders to talk to the developers and its problems could be sorted really quickly.
In terms of bike rack, I got this and it was on sale for $299 at the store.Spares - what has anyone got on deck for this frame?
I wouldnt mind getting a full bearing set for the frame. Has anyone got spares of these? I’m not sure which joints have bearings in them, without unscrewing stuff. Guessing you would need to order another set off bafang though.
I’m chasing volition for a spare derailleur hanger.
Headset parts?
I’m on holidays for a full week, but i plan to do some single track after i get back. Will be the first real ride on some tough stuff. I’ll say this though, the extra weight of an ebike seems to give so more more stability, especially in the air
That gets me to another question regarding carbon frames - what carriers are ya’ll using? I need to get a new one and I’m thinking one where the wheels are on a solid platform. I have one of those hangers that grab the top tube for my previous alloy bikes. Dont want to use that to lug it around, they are EXXY as hell though.
Costco
www.costco.com.au
Has anyone noticed their frame creaking? Even with minuscule movements.
To those that did the build themselves, did you use grease on everything that bolts into/through the frame? After a few rides i have noticed a creaking noise coming from various parts of the frame. I removed the rear shock and noticed no grease where it attaches to the frame, and I’m guessing the rest of the bike has no grease, especially the headset cups. Looking for advice, should i pull everything apart and inspect/grease everything. Is there anything I shouldn’t grease?
To those that did the build themselves, did you use grease on everything that bolts into/through the frame? After a few rides i have noticed a creaking noise coming from various parts of the frame. I removed the rear shock and noticed no grease where it attaches to the frame, and I’m guessing the rest of the bike has no grease, especially the headset cups. Looking for advice, should i pull everything apart and inspect/grease everything. Is there anything I shouldn’t grease?
then
the shock yoke shd be greased and also the expansion bolt of the headset. other areas I just left it alone. too much grease will attract dirt.
the shock yoke shd be greased and also the expansion bolt of the headset. other areas I just left it alone. too much grease will attract dirt.
Yeah I’m not a fan of attracting dirt into places that you wouldnt want it.
You mentioned the shock yoke, does that include maybe all the linkages and pivot points? I expect those are probably ok as they should contain bearings which would already have grease. But i might I just pull all the linkages apart. The “Creaking/cracking” noise just kind of annoys me. Its not doing any harm? I’ve never had carbon before.
just the part connecting to the shock
Eco and Sport mode - Is this an option for the M600 and what does it actually do?
I know how to switch between Sport and Eco on the display, but does the controller actually support it? Sport mode doesnt seem to be using any more power. I’m wondering if its even supported on the M600.
its actually hard to find anything definitive online.
I know how to switch between Sport and Eco on the display, but does the controller actually support it? Sport mode doesnt seem to be using any more power. I’m wondering if its even supported on the M600.
its actually hard to find anything definitive online.
Available on my M600. Noticeable difference between the 2 modes on mine. Typical cruising use Eco 3, and for rocky hills that I can barely walk up, Power 5, biggest rear sprocket is the go. Pedals up easily or just use the throttle. Eco 3 would not provide enough assistance. I would expect greater distance overall on Eco. I typicality start out on Eco for the exercise switching to Power as needed or later in the ride to maximise discharge.
you enter in your display parameter mode and you change setting during your ride ?
Approx how much range are you getting? I’m assuming you are configured for 5 assistance levels?
I dont notice much if any difference between eco and sport, which is why i wondered if it wasn’t actually supported by the controller. I’ve been using eco for everything so far. I might try my next single track in sport mode. I use PAS 1-2 on the trails and move up to 3 if I’m climbing and want an easy go of it. My last ride i was a bit shocked at the (bad) range. I think i started on around 70% and in 12kms i was at 20% using PAS 1-3, in saying that I hadn’t charged it after a few short rides totalling about 20kms.
Crusing at 35+ also eats the battery in no time.
Hello , just put out my info on the range for M600 ....I drive another controller 43V 20A from FLX (=battery 48Volt 840wh).
I can reach about 85km on 1 battery and about 600hm in totall (mostly pas2 from 5) ,there is no real mountain overhere but more like smaller hills ,country riding !
Did you get that controller for a specific reason?
Yes looking for more range but still some punch and lower consumption
...i ride with an extra battery in backpack what makes longer rides (= marathon)of 120km and more possible ....85k’s sounds pretty damn good!
I have just ordered a new saddle, I couldn’t ride more than about 20kms seated constantly. When i ride the new saddle in i plan to do a bit of a range test myself. Will post a comparison. My home town is pretty flat also.
I am curious, how is the PAS and torque applied with that controller Compared to the stock controller? As smooth?
Hello ,in pas 1 is for athletes and lower assistent ...(-; pas2 is the one you need ...3 is the same as pas1 original ... Torque is good as you push harder you get more power .. feel is better ,what i think and believe tobe happening on a ebike ....on a normall flat road you get even 95 km with Average speed of 29.4 kmh on 1 battery .(840wh)
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I drive a 48v m600 to. Would you advise me to do the same mod?Yes looking for more range but still some punch and lower consumption
From my point off view its a real easy and a good upgrade ....you still can go back whenever you want
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djol
Member
Best investment you can get .. no wires and works everytime( Axs) batteries are really good ,no hassle what so ever ....my 2 centsWax, is that an Archer D1x or the SRAM AXS?
I’m planning on an Archer for my E10 build / very curious to hear what you think of electronic shifting as an DIY-eMTB addition once you get one. Perhaps an eMTBforums mini-review…?
- Thread starter
- #118
I will do a report, I was lucky enough to get the rona and so I have not been able to rideWax, is that an Archer D1x or the SRAM AXS?
I’m planning on an Archer for my E10 build / very curious to hear what you think of electronic shifting as an DIY-eMTB addition once you get one. Perhaps an eMTBforums mini-review…?
Hello
Hello Guys ,did some testing on the PAS1 off 5 from controller above ...got 140km on a flat surface (+-300hm) .You have to work a bit harder .The big power isn't there in PAS1 but if you are getting started ,and keeping the speed at 26-28km is easy on a 90ish cadence .
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