Mondraker Crafty S vs higher-priced Crafty models — worth the price difference?

[carlnybo]

I ride a Mondraker crafty S.

What do you think about the S model compsred to the other higher priced mondraker crafty models?

@Greg Watts

 

[Greg Watts]

The good news for you: the S shares the exact same core as every Crafty above it. Same Bosch Performance Line CX Gen 5 (120Nm, 750W peak), same 800Wh PowerTube, same carbon-front/alloy-rear frame, same Zero Suspension System with 150mm rear travel. The bits that make a Crafty climb and descend the way it does — geometry, motor, battery — you already have. Nobody's overtaking you up the fireroad because they spent an extra five grand.

Here's what the money above you actually buys, on the 2026 range:

Trim	Price	Fork	Shock	Brakes
S (yours)	£5,799	RockShox ZEB Base 160	Fox Float-X Performance	SRAM DB8
R	£6,799	Fox 38 GRIP Performance 160	Fox Float-X Performance	SRAM Maven Base
RR	£7,699	Fox 38 GRIPX2 Factory 160	Fox Float X Factory	SRAM Maven Bronze
XR	£11,399	Fox Podium GRIPX2 170	Fox DHX2 coil	SRAM Maven Silver
RR SL	£11,799	Fox 36 GRIPX2 Factory 160	Fox Float Factory	SRAM Maven Silver

So the ladder is essentially damper quality and brakes, plus full-carbon rear and lighter wheels near the top. The two real gaps worth knowing:

• Brakes. Your DB8 is a mineral-oil 4-piston that stops a 24.3kg e-bike fine, but the Maven (from the R up) has noticeably more bite and heat management on long, steep descents. This is the one upgrade riders most often make first.
• Damper tune. The ZEB Base and Float-X Performance work well — @ntm95 rates the Crafty's suspension performance even on the alloy-rear bikes — but the Factory GRIPX2 stuff up top gives you more low-speed support and finer adjustment if you're chasing setup.

Two things worth budgeting for regardless of trim: the OEM Maxxis DHF front. @mcboab found it "very drifty" and lost traction in faster corners on the Crafty, preferring a Continental Kryptotal Enduro Soft up front. And @David1960 (750Wh Bosch Crafty) got through a chain every 3 months — that motor torque eats drivetrains, so factor in consumables.

Honestly? The S is the smart-money buy. Ride it, then spend the saved £1k–£5k on brakes and a front tyre if and when you feel the ceiling.


What's your riding like — long alpine descents, or more rolling trail? That'd tell me whether the brake upgrade is worth doing sooner.

 

[carlnybo]

I havent been mountain or trail riding yet, I will mostly use the bike to make food deliveries in bergen Norway which is a town with many steep inclines and I also wsnt to ride it during winter to continue working with deliveries. On my days off I will go off road riding in the mountain

 

[carlnybo]

What do you think greg?

 

[Greg Watts]

I havent been mountain or trail riding yet, I will mostly use the bike to make food deliveries in bergen Norway which is a town with many steep inclines and I also wsnt to ride it during winter to continue working with deliveries. On my days off I will go off road riding in the mountain

@carlnybo - that changes the answer, and in your favour: the S is now definitely the right trim. The upgrades further up the ladder (Factory dampers, Maven brakes, carbon rear) pay off on long alpine descents - not on delivery runs up Bergen's hills. For your use, the money's better spent on the stuff below.

The steep streets The CX Gen 5's 120Nm will laugh at Bergen's inclines, loaded or not. Your DB8 brakes are fine, but repeated steep descents with cargo eat pads - budget for spares and check them often. That's a consumables issue, not a trim issue.

Winter is the real project Bergen ice means studded tyres, no debate - if you want secure grip on ice, studs are the only way. What riders here in Nordic conditions actually run:

• Suomi Tyres Piikkisika 29x2.6 - rated as probably the best spiked tyre for mountain bikes traction-wise, though quality control is patchy and they're hard to set up tubeless. One member runs Nokian Piikkisika 29 2.6 or 2.8 and finds 45NRTH tyres lose studs faster, though the Wrathchild is a bit better on pure ice

• Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro - but don't buy the 2.25" for mountain bike use, it's useless in snow; go 2.6

• Break them in properly: lock the wheel on ice with brand-new studs and you'll lose most of the ones touching the ground - bedding them in first is very important. And watch rear wheel spin-outs against hard surfaces - they pull studs, and spin-outs come easier on an eMTB

• Battery's removable - bring it indoors between shifts and charge warm; cold kills range Carrying the food

The Crafty has no rack mounts, so it's an insulated delivery backpack - plenty exist with adjustable inner dividers, padded back support and a chest strap. Keeps the bike unmodified for your days off in the mountains, which is rather the point of buying a Crafty over a cargo bike.

One practical note: my prices were UK GBP - Norwegian NOK pricing will differ, so check with a local Mondraker dealer.

Honestly, a 150mm enduro bike doing pizza runs up Fløyen all week then proper mountain riding at the weekend might be the hardest-working Crafty in Scandinavia. It'll cope - just feed it chains.

 

[Greg Watts]

What do you think greg?

@carlnybo - I've given you the full picture across the thread, so I'll keep this one tight: stick with the S. It's the right buy for exactly what you're doing.

Everything above the S buys you nicer dampers, Maven brakes and a lighter carbon rear - all of which earn their keep on long alpine descents, and none of which help you get a pizza up Fløyen or keep the rubber side down on Bergen ice. You'd be paying £1k - £6k for a ceiling you won't touch on delivery runs, and your weekend mountain riding won't miss it either while you're finding your feet.

The three things that'll actually matter for you are the cheap ones we already covered: • Brakes - the DB8s cope; just watch pad wear from loaded descents and keep spares in.

• Winter - studded tyres are the real spend, not a trim upgrade. That's where your money goes. • Chains - 120Nm eats drivetrains, so treat chains as a consumable.

So the honest answer to the thread title: no, the price jump isn't worth it for your use. Save the difference, buy studs and a delivery pack, and put the rest toward the day you decide you want proper Factory suspension for the mountains. That's a much better use of the money than buying it up front.

You're set. Go earn some kroner on it - and let us know how it handles that first proper winter shift.