Mileage / km - chain and cassette life on Shimano SLX, CS-M7100, 12-speed, 10-51t

Dk-shredder

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Hi guys

(I did search the forum on this subject, no thread came through with what I'm looking for)

I have a Turbo Levo 2021 with the slx kit on.

I was just wondering what you guys have in terms of experience regarding the life span on the drive train.
I have seen the test Shimano 12 speed chain test - SLX vs XT - EMTB Forums and it's great, however, I would like to hear from you guys on real-life use.

* how many Km/miles do you put on your chain
* do you cycle through 2/3/4 chains on 1 cassette
* what is your maintenance level

If you feel like you have other inputs that affect the lifetime, such as what conditions you usually ride in I would like to know that too.

Hope you would like to share your experiences, thanks in advance :)
 
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There's a few threads on this subject.

l've got SRAM 12 speed on my ebike. l get around 750 miles from a chain, and my cassette wouldn't take a third chain without jumping in the high gears.
So at 1500 miles l had to replace the chain, and cassette.
The front chainring seems fine.

l've looked after the chain, regularly degreased and used various products including posh oil that's supposed to make the chain last for ever.
 
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I got 2250 miles out of an SLX chain and a mix of SLX/NX cassette (depending which rear wheel I was running). The whole lot needed replacing at that point. I'm doing exactly the same maintenance regime this time around except I'm rotating 2 SLX chains to see how far I can go. I was rotating an SLX and NX chain but the NX shifts like garbage so it's consigned to the emergency spares bin.
 
So, yes, there’s lots here on this subject and I generally put my two penneth in, so apologies to those who think I’m dementing somewhat…?

This question isn’t really about the choice of chain. Yes, some are more wear resistant, for example the high end SRAM and Shimano.

But all chains and then, as a consequence, cassettes and on and on will wear out faster for any one rider the worse they look after them. This is the main factor.

Some people will reply here honestly reporting amazing distances, both short and long, before chain replacement.

There’s the issue of when to replace a chain. The longer you wait, the more damage to the cassette. Most who care for their chains will get two or three chains per cassette. Most say its most cost effective to change your chain when it’s grown in length (due to wear at every roller bearing/link junction) of 0.5% on an e-bike using a chain checker (.75%on a normally aspirated). But some say they don’t bother and change the whole lot (cassette/chain/chainring) together and when they do the maths, it costs them no more per km travelled.

Some say have two or three chains and rotate them every month or 200-400km whatever’s your thing. That’s because this means the cassette will last longer because this system stops you putting a new unworn chain on a worn cassette. Rotating two or three chains means the wear on the cassette effectively mateches the wear on all three chains.

There’s the whole when to clean and how to clean your chain thing.

And the what lube to use thing.

I clean my chain fully after every muddy ride or after every 100km. I do that by taking it off and slushing it in turps two or three times and then wiping it and then one trip through meths. That all takes about 6 minutes altogether. Do that in an ice cream tub. No toothbrushes needed. Whenever I lube my chain, I always wipe as much off as possible afterwards with a rag spinning te chain through it. Only the surfaces that move over each other need lube. Any more than that attracts dust and dirt which then moves into the ‘bearings’ between the rollers and the plates.

I get about 1000km out of my e-bike chain, I rotate chains and get about 2500km out of a cassette this way. But that means nothing ‘cos you don’t know how I ride, where I ride, the weather, etc etc. I get even more out of my hardtail normally aspirated bike’s chainset.

Focus on doing your best to keep your drivetrain clean and font worry about anybody else (so, normal practice then ?)

If you want to read more and learn how the process above can be actually very quick and most cost effective (honestly!), set aside a couple of quite uninterrupted hours and read the only independent cost analysis of which lube/chain/cleaning method is best. All the methodology is fully set out so that it can be repeated. It’s a fascinating read - just takes a while:

 
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I'm rotating 2 SLX chains to see how far I can go.
Don't rotate them. Run one chain with each cassette. and always run that same chain with that cassette swapping it when you swap between wheelsets
 
The smooth and level terrain I ride on allows me to run in the smallest 11 tooth cog most of the time. I originally used a wet lube and got about 900 miles before having to replace chain and 11 tooth cog. The 11 tooth cog was worn badly causing chain to skip in that gear only. Lesson learned is do not use smallest gear too often and stop using nasty grit collecting wet lubes. I now hot wax my chain, hoping this will extend cog life.
 
The smooth and level terrain I ride on allows me to run in the smallest 11 tooth cog most of the time. I originally used a wet lube and got about 900 miles before having to replace chain and 11 tooth cog.
spin faster, fit a larger chainring if you can and a closer ratio smaller range cassette only running low enough gearing as low as you actually need (this can often require changing to 10 speed components as mtb 11 and 12 speed cassettes are not available with the smaller range). Personally with a motor I don't require any lower than a 1:1 ratio to climb anything I ride (36t chainring and 11-36 cassette) so that's what i run.

Massive range cassettes (eg. 10-52 12speed) combined with a clutch mech unavoidably increases load on a drivetrain. Shifting with larger tooth jumps between sprockets and the more extreme angles the chain has to reach both contribute to increased wear and are terrible for drivetrain longevity. add in a little clumsy shifting under load or poorly cared for drivetrain components and the effect is multiplied. closer ratio cassettes shift more quickly and cleanly and it's no coincidence that they last a lot longer
 
Don't rotate them. Run one chain with each cassette. and always run that same chain with that cassette swapping it when you swap between wheelsets
I’m not swapping wheels any more; I’ve settled on a rear wheel size now.
 
Thank you all for your answers. I understand that there are many factors playing into my question. It is great hearing about you personal experiences and please keep them coming if you have more knowledge :)

I bought an extra chain that I will cycle around every 200 km. I will also keep the chain, cassette and the rest of the drivetrain clean. I am onæy using X-sauce Eco lube as i have experienced that this will aid the ease of maintenance
 
Overtime if you see lots of oil and dirt buildup on your derailleur wheels, this is not good. Your lube is collecting abrassive dirt, causing drivetrain wear. I ride mostly on paved roads, and the wet lubes collected lots of this foul dirt. I am now trying the drier hot wax method to see if that works better.
 
Overtime if you see lots of oil and dirt buildup on your derailleur wheels, this is not good. Your lube is collecting abrassive dirt, causing drivetrain wear. I ride mostly on paved roads, and the wet lubes collected lots of this foul dirt. I am now trying the drier hot wax method to see if that works better.
That is exactly why I'm using the Eco wax, my cassette is so clean, even when riding in mud.
 
3700Km in a SLX 12v cassette and Deore chain . Wheel and cassette semashed by car rear hit ? :eek: . No personnal damage ? .
 
3700Km in a SLX 12v cassette and Deore chain . Wheel and cassette semashed by car rear hit ? :eek: . No personnal damage ? .
Woooah Good to hear that you are okay ? sounds like your maintenance is good, but it might struggle with this one.
 
Woooah Good to hear that you are okay ? sounds like your maintenance is good, but it might struggle with this one.
Only regular use, avoinding to ride in deep mud in winter, and Lub . No special care . Lack off spares helped to extende the use, otherwise supose had replace it earlier.
 
High Rock Ruti

Let's see $13,000 for the ebike....oh yeah now I remember I replace the chain and cassette when they're worn out, yeah that's ticket

Warm Regards Ruti
 
Somebody needs to make hardened 10 and 11 tooth cogs. Big money in that.

Maybe we can harden cogs ourselves? Any metallurgist listening?
 
Somebody needs to get a grasp of how derailleur gearing actually works so they can spend less time in their TOP gear.
Big savings in that. ;)

I'm no metallurgist but I do know one of the downside of hardening steel is brittleness and at a guess I'd say both Shimano and SRAM have some pretty clever folk working for them designing and choosing the materials for their components.
 
Yes I am learning to shift more often. Trying not to put chain under too much load.

Some things are designed to wear and fail earlier than they should $$$
 
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I have 1400 miles already on the 10 speed chain combined with the gearbox hub and it still works without issues. I cleaned this chain just once at around 800 miles. This chain was stretched ower 0.75 mm mark at 800 miles and now at 1400 miles it probably stretched a couple millimeters more over 0.75 mm mark but it still works fine. I do not care about damage on the sprocket and the chainring because of those things cost less than the chain. I guess the only thing will force me to replace the chain is the chain will be broken.

I believe 12 speed systems would allow to use chains for such high mileage without replacing them if only those would not slip on high gears when the chain is stretched too much and the high gear sprockets are damaged.
 
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I have 1400 miles already on the 10 speed chain combined with the gearbox hub and it still works without issues. I cleaned this chain just once at around 800 miles. This chain was stretched ower 0.75 mm mark at 800 miles and now at 1400 miles it probably stretched a couple millimeters more over 0.75 mm mark but it still works fine. I do not care about damage on the sprocket and the chainring because of those things cost less than the chain. I guess the only thing will force me to replace the chain is the chain will be broken.

I believe 12 speed systems would allow to use chains for such high mileage without replacing them if only those would not slip on high gears when the chain is stretched too much and the high gear sprockets are damaged.
High Rock Ruti

I always try to break my chain in the Parking lot, or at the top of the hill, it's so much easier to get home.

Warm Regards Ruti
 
9 or 10 speeds is plenty for an Ebike you would get lower prices for chain and casette and mor distance.
 
Is it ok the use a 12 speed front chain ring with a 9 or 10 speed cassette and chain. Isn't the 12 speed more narrow than the 10 speed?
 
If you want your drivetrain to last longer (much, much longer), switch to hot waxing your chain and rotate 3 chains regularly. It takes much less time and fluffing around then the normal chain cleaning/lubing procedures. Unless you ride primarily in wet environments then its not as good.
 
Hello everyone
My experience with Shimano's SLX bothers me a lot, I changed casts 3 times, at the bike shop, in less than 1500 km it is important to note that I am a new rider and walk only for dirt roads, do not climb mountains or singles and have no medical strength in my legs or fitness Physical.
Even I myself was not one to skip the SLX Cassette 7100, whenever an experienced friend would take the bike for 10 minutes of experience he would come back and tell me I had a skip. Would show me the jump after exerting some force on my missing legs.
I'm desperate and mentally broken I stopped riding, and considering selling the bike and suing the store and against Shimano, I would love to cooperate.
 
Shimano SLX here - 1700 miles on original . 3rd chain just started. Always use putoline or candle hot was bath. Always remove chain to clean. You can get replacement smaller sprockets for the cassette , they are the ones you wear out....
 
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