Levo Gen 2 Magura MT7 with 220mm rotor

[1Nixxxo]

MDR-P rotors are only for 6-bolt interface (Magura strongly warns against Centrerlock for MDR-P). Had MT7 for more than a year, though had to use rear 2-pot caliper on Merida eOne-Sixty. It’s the most powerful brakes with 220 mm, even with 2-pot calipers!
Now I’ll happily install them on my new Levo and I (116 kg w/o a gear) will feel safe and sound.
Considering bleeding. It’s a pain in the ass as long as you don’t know about one small hack: bleed the lever from both sides! And while bleeding rotate the lever +-10 degree or more to release the air.
I actually give it a quick bleed at the lever when I forgot to change brake pads on time ? — 10 minutes job.
Also I totally recommend HC3 levers! These levers alone forced me to purchase MT7. The power adjuster is really helpful cause you can balance the feel of front and rear brakes, adopt power delivery depending on trail conditions. With them you can mimic the feel of shity Sram to Shimano Saint and anything in between.
Previously I had Formula Cura and I really loved them too — so powerful with such a small lever stroke and still great modulation! Cura 2-pot are just a bit less powerful than MT7, I think maybe 10-12% percent less IMO.

 

[Kave]

What an experince replacing the sram brakes. Replacing the rear brake pipe was quite easy. There are guieds around the engine area to push the pipe through. What was a pitt was getting all the air out. I bought the Magura Professional kit and that was a really messy experience. I am not sure I have the air out after 1.5 hours and three tries per brake system pushing fluid back and forth.

 

[1Nixxxo]

What an experince replacing the sram brakes. Replacing the rear brake pipe was quite easy. There are guieds around the engine area to push the pipe through. What was a pitt was getting all the air out. I bought the Magura Professional kit and that was a really messy experience. I am not sure I have the air out after 1.5 hours and three tries per brake system pushing fluid back and forth.

Year, had the same experience with first bleed. Just don't push super hard on syringe cause it sucks air the lever o-ring (you feel like it's an never ending process, spent 4 hours before realized my mistake). Instead just push full syringe from caliper to lever, close the lever and repeat. Next, close the caliper, plug a syringe in the lever, level the lever fore and alt a bit while pulling air out, close the bleeding port. THEN! Bleed the lever again from the other side. After that you'll have successful bleeding.
I don't know why Magura doesn't state this in the bleeding instructions, but bleeding the lever from both sides works best.

 

[Kave]

Year, had the same experience with first bleed. Just don't push super hard on syringe cause it sucks air the lever o-ring (you feel like it's an never ending process, spent 4 hours before realized my mistake). Instead just push full syringe from caliper to lever, close the lever and repeat. Next, close the caliper, plug a syringe in the lever, level the lever fore and alt a bit while pulling air out, close the bleeding port. THEN! Bleed the lever again from the other side. After that you'll have successful bleeding.
I don't know why Magura doesn't state this in the bleeding instructions, but bleeding the lever from both sides works best.

So you mean you never suck back from the caliper? Magura claims that fluid should be pushed and sucked back many times.

 

[1Nixxxo]

So you mean you never suck back from the caliper? Magura claims that fluid should be pushed and sucked back many times.

Exactly. Or you can suck fluid back through the caliper, but really really slow. Most of the air is trapped in the lever, so push it through the caliper once, and then pull it from the lever with caliper closed, tilting the levere a bit and do the same from another side of the lever (it’s called quick bleed, there are few videos on Youtube).

 

[1Nixxxo]

So you mean you never suck back from the caliper? Magura claims that fluid should be pushed and sucked back many times.

Magura doesn’t state, that the o-ring at the lever port allows to suck air ?

 

[Tobi]

MDR-P rotors are only for 6-bolt interface (Magura strongly warns against Centrerlock for MDR-P). Had MT7 for more than a year, though had to use rear 2-pot caliper on Merida eOne-Sixty. It’s the most powerful brakes with 220 mm, even with 2-pot calipers!
Now I’ll happily install them on my new Levo and I (116 kg w/o a gear) will feel safe and sound.
Considering bleeding. It’s a pain in the ass as long as you don’t know about one small hack: bleed the lever from both sides! And while bleeding rotate the lever +-10 degree or more to release the air.
I actually give it a quick bleed at the lever when I forgot to change brake pads on time ? — 10 minutes job.
Also I totally recommend HC3 levers! These levers alone forced me to purchase MT7. The power adjuster is really helpful cause you can balance the feel of front and rear brakes, adopt power delivery depending on trail conditions. With them you can mimic the feel of shity Sram to Shimano Saint and anything in between.
Previously I had Formula Cura and I really loved them too — so powerful with such a small lever stroke and still great modulation! Cura 2-pot are just a bit less powerful than MT7, I think maybe 10-12% percent less IMO.

Does anybody has an technical explanation why Magura strongly warns against using Centrerlock for MDR-P. Recently i purcased MDP-R 220 mm rotor and mount it to "Reverse Component" centerlock adapter and it fits well. Didn't find any reason not to use it. I see that some users had to adjust adapter's to fit in to rotor but Revers Component fit nice in to hole of rotor.

 

[1Nixxxo]

Does anybody has an technical explanation why Magura strongly warns against using Centrerlock for MDR-P. Recently i purcased MDP-R 220 mm rotor and mount it to "Reverse Component" centerlock adapter and it fits well. Didn't find any reason not to use it. I see that some users had to adjust adapter's to fit in to rotor but Revers Component fit nice in to hole of rotor.

I suppose that this restriction is due to a weak spline interface on a long run. Shimano spline interface is much stronger on a crank shaft due to thicker walls. But it may also be a kind of myth that the ebike "needs" the ebike-specific wheels. I still believe that Centerlock interface does not belong on MTB.

 

[smstansbu]

I've done MT7s with 220 ebike rotors front and rear. Very happy with the results. My local trails have long, steep descents that are shared with hikers (and their kids and dogs). The SRAMs weren't up to the task and would be howling hot when I reached the bottom.


View attachment 40238

what size adapter did you use for the rear? I'm attempting to order the right items to update my Levo to 220mm

 

[salko]

If you want 220mm rotor on rear end you will need PM +40mm adapter ...