Levo SL Gen 1 Levo SL 2023 Megathread

Suns_PSD

Active member
Jul 12, 2022
429
338
Austin
First ride done on the SL. Will break my feedback into two parts, motor/software and bike.

So the motor, not sure if mine was setup how it ships from the factory or someone had messed with it before I rode it. Settings were 35/35 Eco 75/80 Trail and 100/80 in Turbo. Spent the entire ride in Trail. I need to do more research on how the settings effect the ride, but it was super strong in general. My friend was riding a standard Levo and I had no problem keeping up. In general bike felt very artificial, but I will need some more rides on my updated settings before I can give a definitive answer. A few other notes on the Specialized, it has significantly more overrun. Another thing I noticed was a strange cutoff when hitting any large compressions while climbing. Not sure if anyone else notices this, but the power drops dramatically for .75-1.5 seconds.

Right now I would say that the Trek feels much more natural from a power delivery perspective. It cuts in and out almost instinctively to the point where you stop even noticing it.

Regarding noise, this is no contest and the Trek wins hands down. Most of the time on the Trek you literally can't hear it. Sometimes on the road you can hear a faint whine, but only if you are really paying attention. Contrast this with the SL/G2 which has a high pitch whine that is very noticeable and constant.

One other small point, the screen is much better on the Trek/TQ package. More readable and better information like time/distance remaining along with charge status, etc.

Overall, IMO the Trek is a better motor package based on sound and power delivery. This is a very early opinion right now and subject to change. Sound is obviously not going to be altered at all, but as I tune the Specialized more I expect the gap to close significantly. One last note is that I have never tuned the motor on the Trek and had no idea of the setting until I looked tonight to compare them to the Specialized.

Now onto the bike portion. Spent time moving over my preferred build today. It is the same build I run on everything so no surprises there and it came directly off the Trek. Only differences between the bikes were the frame, rear shock, dropper and cranks. My bike is setup full 29/high rear shock position/-1 headset. So the ride, oh the ride. This is where Specialized shines. The bike rides so well it is hard to describe, It feels very natural and you never get the sense that you are riding an eBike. I rode a pretty nasty climb that I haven't made in months on either my analog bikes or my Trek. It is steep, rocky and rutted (Secret Trail into Elfin Forest for those that are local). The SL just cruised right up it and I felt in complete control never once feeling like I might not make it or getting kicked off line. My buddy on his Levo did not clean it and it is not about power. It is about balance and control and this bike has it in spades.

Descending is more of the same. I am running a Zeb up front, but have the stock Fox rear shock right now. Rode some rough/fast descents that were not particularly steep, just very rocky and loose. Lots of slower loose corners with very fast straights where line choice is critical. The bike just ate all of it up and is super balanced and planted. Absolutely loved it and blows the Trek out of the water in every aspect of ride quality. The front end of the Fuel is very low and the bike gets kicked around way more which can make for some interesting moments. I was able to get the Trek dialed in, but it took me 4-6 weeks. For the SL I just tried to get the rear shock close in pressure, did the parking lot bounce to check rebound and rode. I am sure there is more in the bike once I put a little more time and effort into tuning it. I just took a look at Strava and my time down it would have been the 5th fastest time of the year overall whether analog or eBike. That is on the first ride with zero time spent tuning it. Pretty wild.

So that's it. Trek has a more refined motor/software package and Specialized dominates the ride experience. For me I will definitely be keeping the SL because the ride quality is simply outstanding. I will say that if Specialized released a new SL tomorrow with the TQ motor and 500 wHr internal battery I would literally be first in line for it. The stealth nature of the TQ setup with the compact/nearly invisible motor, smoother power delivery and virtually imperceptible sound is far superior to the Mahle setup. Would happily take a 1 to 2 lb weight penalty to have 500 wHr on board with a range extender add on to do truly epic ride distances. Hopefully some manufacturer figures this out soon because I don't think I am the only one that wants something like this.

As always, let me know any specific questions I did not answer.

A few pics just because

Before it got dirty

Untitled by Sales Punk, on Flickr

Weight (Will work to get this below 40 lbs at some point)

Untitled by Sales Punk, on Flickr

How good does the bronze 5Dev stem look on this setup!?

Untitled by Sales Punk, on Flickr

After the ride

Untitled by Sales Punk, on Flickr

Great review as always.

I do think you should test the Relay. The F60 motor is just as quiet to my ears as the TQ (I've ridden both), very nearly as natural when dialed in, much more powerful when desired, with a 462 watt battery and the best chassis I've ever ridden.

My XL with pedals, 210 dropper, dual inserts, rear DD tire, and the factory bash guard weighs 43#s. (Mezzer fork, AM front wheel with DH rear 27.5" rim, cable 12 speed shifting) My cheap scale is accurate as it's been tested against a Park Tool at the bike shop.

The issue is reliability however as something went wrong with mine last night and it suddenly became 3x as loud.
 

Pete N

Active member
May 10, 2020
189
126
Surrey
I think the Gen 2 SL is the best option for now.
Not as silent as the TQ but the range extender makes it very useable for longer rides. I also think the Mastermind is the best system.
I’ve always said that the Gen 1 motor noise didn’t really bother me so the Gen 2 will at least be noticeably quieter.
I ride my Epic Evo 50% of the time so there is my silence!
 
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Salespunk

Active member
Jul 27, 2020
107
144
Encinitas, CA
Great review as always.

I do think you should test the Relay. The F60 motor is just as quiet to my ears as the TQ (I've ridden both), very nearly as natural when dialed in, much more powerful when desired, with a 462 watt battery and the best chassis I've ever ridden.

My XL with pedals, 210 dropper, dual inserts, rear DD tire, and the factory bash guard weighs 43#s. (Mezzer fork, AM front wheel with DH rear 27.5" rim, cable 12 speed shifting) My cheap scale is accurate as it's been tested against a Park Tool at the bike shop.

The issue is reliability however as something went wrong with mine last night and it suddenly became 3x as loud.
I will have to check one out. Never owned a Transition before, but have heard good things about them. Hope you get your motor sorted quickly.
 

squealing brakes

New Member
May 23, 2023
6
2
Kent
I am building up a frameset and and struggling to install the rear mech cable sleeve. According to the assembly instructions there should be a plastic guide tube running from the chain stay and over the motor to the bottom of the down tube - but there is no tube provided. The cable sleeve refuses at the end of the chain stay near the pivot where the sleeve needs to bend fairly sharply.

There is a guide tube for the brake so no problems here.

I was wondering whether the frame was assembled with AXS in mind and hence no need for a mech cable?

Going to contact the LBS tomorrow, but was wondering whether the lack of guide tube is common over all framesets? In the absence of a tube, I guess the solution is disassemble the chain stay pivot and drop the motor, and try to wiggle the cable sleeve through. Not keen on this unless I have to!

1686475831326.png
 

RAG

Member
Mar 16, 2021
68
77
UK
I was wondering whether the frame was assembled with AXS in mind and hence no need for a mech cable?
I reckon so, I’m running AXS but was curious when I was building mine up and had the same result, outer cable feels like it’s hitting the motor and/or harness. There isn’t true tube in tube routing, from port to port on this frame.

It looks the same for a cable actuated dropper, it’ll be a motor down job, I’d try dropping the motor before dismantling the rear stays as it may give enough access to get the cable through. Dropping the motor doesn’t look too much of a hardship.
 

dan1987

New Member
Jun 4, 2023
8
5
York, UK
I am building up a frameset and and struggling to install the rear mech cable sleeve. According to the assembly instructions there should be a plastic guide tube running from the chain stay and over the motor to the bottom of the down tube - but there is no tube provided. The cable sleeve refuses at the end of the chain stay near the pivot where the sleeve needs to bend fairly sharply.

There is a guide tube for the brake so no problems here.

I was wondering whether the frame was assembled with AXS in mind and hence no need for a mech cable?

Going to contact the LBS tomorrow, but was wondering whether the lack of guide tube is common over all framesets? In the absence of a tube, I guess the solution is disassemble the chain stay pivot and drop the motor, and try to wiggle the cable sleeve through. Not keen on this unless I have to!
I assembled the frameset and had to drop the motor for the rear mech cable and seatpost one. Someone on here suggested leaving the rear two bolts in and swinging it down, that worked really well for me and I didn’t have to unplug anything. All my motor bolts were loose so I assumed I was expected to drop the motor.
 

43ride

New Member
May 6, 2023
18
24
Wales
I am building up a frameset and and struggling to install the rear mech cable sleeve. According to the assembly instructions there should be a plastic guide tube running from the chain stay and over the motor to the bottom of the down tube - but there is no tube provided. The cable sleeve refuses at the end of the chain stay near the pivot where the sleeve needs to bend fairly sharply.

There is a guide tube for the brake so no problems here.

I was wondering whether the frame was assembled with AXS in mind and hence no need for a mech cable?

Going to contact the LBS tomorrow, but was wondering whether the lack of guide tube is common over all framesets? In the absence of a tube, I guess the solution is disassemble the chain stay pivot and drop the motor, and try to wiggle the cable sleeve through. Not keen on this unless I have to!

View attachment 117422
I had exactly the same issue and unfortunately you have to drop the motor 😒
 

gts66

New Member
Apr 5, 2023
65
58
France
… and a great way to remind yourself how much assistance these “mid assist” emtb’s are really providing!
True, I experience the same when switching from my EPIC EVO and my SL 2 ! Ride after ride I like more and more the gen 2 SL, such a versatile bike !
 
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Pete N

Active member
May 10, 2020
189
126
Surrey
… and a great way to remind yourself how much assistance these “mid assist” emtb’s are r
True, I experience the same when switching from my EPIC EVO and my SL 2 ! Ride after ride I like more and more the gen 2 SL, such a versatile bike !
Good to hear!! Have you found any negatives?
I have settled on a frame build in the end. Finances dictated it.
I have all the parts, just await the frameset which should be here within two weeks
 

gts66

New Member
Apr 5, 2023
65
58
France
Good to hear!! Have you found any negatives?
I have settled on a frame build in the end. Finances dictated it.
I have all the parts, just await the frameset which should be here within two weeks
Honestly for now all good, the only strange thing that happened twice is the mastermind going in stealth mode while riding, I am investigating to understand if it is on me because doing strange button combinations on the mastermind remote or if it is a firmware bug.
The only downside is that when it happens the bikes stops recording the ride and I loose some datapoints, but other than that the bike still rides the same (meaning super well 😍).
 

RAG

Member
Mar 16, 2021
68
77
UK
Honestly for now all good, the only strange thing that happened twice is the mastermind going in stealth mode while riding, I am investigating to understand if it is on me because doing strange button combinations on the mastermind remote or if it is a firmware bug.
The only downside is that when it happens the bikes stops recording the ride and I loose some datapoints, but other than that the bike still rides the same (meaning super well 😍).
I’ve had this happen, it happened to me while I was making settings changes in MissionControl while riding using an iphone.

I found some references on this forum and online about the iPhone “shake to undo”setting.

I figure as my phone is bouncing around in my pocket it’s undoing settings in MissionControl. I haven’t had it happen since but it’s not a conclusive fix just yet…. Might be worth a try:

  1. Go to Settings in your phone
  2. Select General → Accessibility → Touch
  3. On the Touch settings page, scroll down to find 'Shake to Undo'
  4. Toggle the ‘Shake to Undo’ switch to the OFF position to disable the feature in iOS
It’s also referenced here:

 

gts66

New Member
Apr 5, 2023
65
58
France
I’ve had this happen, it happened to me while I was making settings changes in MissionControl while riding using an iphone.

I found some references on this forum and online about the iPhone “shake to undo”setting.

I figure as my phone is bouncing around in my pocket it’s undoing settings in MissionControl. I haven’t had it happen since but it’s not a conclusive fix just yet…. Might be worth a try:

  1. Go to Settings in your phone
  2. Select General → Accessibility → Touch
  3. On the Touch settings page, scroll down to find 'Shake to Undo'
  4. Toggle the ‘Shake to Undo’ switch to the OFF position to disable the feature in iOS
It’s also referenced here:

Thanks for sharing, I will try that and let you know, but it sounds promising !
 
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Salespunk

Active member
Jul 27, 2020
107
144
Encinitas, CA
Did another ride today on the SL/G2 after tuning the motor which changed my views somewhat. Ride was 19.5 miles/3.1K of elevation. I finished with 41% battery remaining.

I swapped my settings to Eco 30/35, Trail 50/80 and Turbo 80/100. Did 99% of the ride today in Eco and it felt much more natural and brought it up to equal in feel to the TQ motor. I only used Trail for about 45 seconds on one section of a climb that is 20%+ gradient. Probably need to tune Trail down to 40/80, but will mess with it more in future rides.

One other interesting note is that either I am getting used to the sound or the bike has quieted down slightly after the first ride. Definitely seems a little quieter to me and a buddy who was riding a Kenevo SL commented on how quiet my bike is.

I also adjusted my display, but Specialized implementation of range estimates sucks. It is literally terrible because it assumes that I will be changing between Eco/Trail/Turbo in some sort of regular cadence. This means that when I switch between Trail and Eco the range estimate does not change. IMO this is just poor SW implementation where Specialized just took one person's view of what the display should be. Also having to manually reset for distance/elevation/etc is a bit weird as well. This one is a little more understandable, but could definitely be better.

So overall, motor feel equivalent with TQ, battery life is excellent, noise is OK but definitely higher than the TQ, ride quality incredible, display just dumb.
 
Last edited:

cfrea

New Member
Jun 12, 2023
6
1
Los Angeles
Did another ride today on the SL/G2 after tuning the motor which changed my views somewhat. Ride was 19.5 miles/3.1K of elevation. I finished with 41% battery remaining.

I swapped my settings to Eco 30/35, Trail 50/80 and Turbo 80/100. Did 99% of the ride today in Eco and it felt much more natural and brought it up to equal in feel to the TQ motor. I only used Trail for about 45 seconds on one section of a climb that is 20%+ gradient. Probably need to tune Trail down to 40/80, but will mess with it more in future rides.

One other interesting note is that either I am getting used to the sound or the bike has quieted down slightly after the first ride. Definitely seems a little quieter to me and a buddy who was riding a Kenevo SL commented on how quiet my bike is.

I also adjusted my display, but Specialized implementation of range estimates sucks. It is literally terrible because it assumes that I will be changing between Eco/Trail/Turbo in some sort of regular cadence. This means that when I switch between Trail and Eco the range estimate does not change. IMO this is just poor SW implementation where Specialized just took one person's view of what the display should be. Also having to manually reset for distance/elevation/etc is a bit weird as well. This one is a little more understandable, but could definitely be better.

So overall, motor feel equivalent with TQ, battery life is excellent, noise is OK but definitely higher than the TQ, ride quality incredible, display just dumb.
Thanks for the review. I'm trying to decide between a Fuel EXE and a Levo SL 1.2. I rode the EXE first and felt it was underpowered, then I rode a SL 1.2 and instantly felt more power low down. I went back to the Trek dealer and connected the EXE to the app and boosted all the figures to their max in each stage and then re rode the EXE and it felt a lot closer to the SL 1.2. Since you have both, is power equal on both if you were to set both levels to match each other's on their respective apps?
 

Pete N

Active member
May 10, 2020
189
126
Surrey
Honestly for now all good, the only strange thing that happened twice is the mastermind going in stealth mode while riding, I am investigating to understand if it is on me because doing strange button combinations on the mastermind remote or if it is a firmware bug.
The only downside is that when it happens the bikes stops recording the ride and I loose some datapoints, but other than that the bike still rides the same (meaning super well 😍).
I had this a couple of times on my Gen1. It also occasionally switched down a level. A software upgrade appeared to fix that thought could have just have been a bit of moisture I guess. With this hot weather it’s unlikely to be moisture at the moment!
Great to hear the bike is as good as hoped.
I’ll be running mine 29/29 as this is what I always had in mind.
I may change my mind but it’s where I’ll start.
 

George_KSL

Active member
Sep 11, 2021
234
259
Slovak Republic
Majority of people ride SL in Eco/Trail (although for Internet posterity claim to be 99perc. Eco :- ).
Majority of questions in thread still concerned about power of the engine. The law of physics still apply, there is not magical difference in "efficiency" so that at 100W consumption one will give 20perc. more noticeable boost in power over the other. Just not possible. When you tune SL and TQ to produce same output, they will almost always eat through the same amount of battery.
What does it matter what the stock settings are? The "Trail" mode can be absolutely anything.

There will be so many of these bikes in Sell-Section of bike websites to get great discount on I suggest everyone budget concerned to simply wait for the wave of mistaken early adopters. Looks like Specialized wanted to avoid the 'always on discount' situation by simply not manufacturing lot of them in first place.

Choosing bike almost purely based on engine will never make anyone happy. These aren't cars.
 

Pete N

Active member
May 10, 2020
189
126
Surrey
This is very true. The amount of bikes of all
Manufacturers that end up for sale pretty soon is crazy. There are lot of people who don’t really think about what they want.
 

squealing brakes

New Member
May 23, 2023
6
2
Kent
I assembled the frameset and had to drop the motor for the rear mech cable and seatpost one. Someone on here suggested leaving the rear two bolts in and swinging it down, that worked really well for me and I didn’t have to unplug anything. All my motor bolts were loose so I assumed I was expected to drop the motor.
Thanks for your advice. A bit of wiggling of the cable outer in the chainstay, followed by dropping the motor (with rear bolts still attached) has sorted the problem.
 

gts66

New Member
Apr 5, 2023
65
58
France
I had this a couple of times on my Gen1. It also occasionally switched down a level. A software upgrade appeared to fix that thought could have just have been a bit of moisture I guess. With this hot weather it’s unlikely to be moisture at the moment!
Great to hear the bike is as good as hoped.
I’ll be running mine 29/29 as this is what I always had in mind.
I may change my mind but it’s where I’ll start.
Honestly I was suspicious on the mullet setup on my S5 bike given my size/weight (1,91m an 91kg) mostly because of the short chain stay I thought the front wheel would lift to easily on steeper climbs and make the bike hard to control, but after experiencing a few rides with steep climbs all I can say is that I love the mullet setup 🥰 ! Nimble downhill and stable uphill !
 

Olivier Clg

Member
Nov 15, 2021
55
47
France
Honestly I was suspicious on the mullet setup on my S5 bike given my size/weight (1,91m an 91kg) mostly because of the short chain stay I thought the front wheel would lift to easily on steeper climbs and make the bike hard to control, but after experiencing a few rides with steep climbs all I can say is that I love the mullet setup 🥰 ! Nimble downhill and stable uphill !
I'm agree with you. My LSL2 mullet S4 climb like a charm. However I'll try the full 29 to compare with my KSL
 

Suns_PSD

Active member
Jul 12, 2022
429
338
Austin
Short CS's always climb great. Looping out isn't a thing, short of an ICE engine and the rearward weight distribution helps dramatically with climbing traction.
The issue is that when going through turns you can find that with your weight biased too far back, results in a front tire that won't stick.
It'll be worse in flat turns and when seated, residual with a slack 75' sta.
That said, I've discovered on my Relay that the battery weight results in high front end traction so maybe long CS's aren't as needed for good bike balance on an E-bike? Yet to be determined.
 
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