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Levo Gen 4 both class 1 and 3?

Pinky Pilot

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From what I’m hearing the new Levo will be able to toggle between class 1 and 3. Anyone have details on how this will work? Is it in the ride app or switchable on the bike?

(I’d post on the Levo gen4 page, but I’m new here and don’t want to get a time out on my 2nd post. 😂)
 
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My dealer told me he can sell them with or without the option. The dealer has the option according to him.
 
My dealer told me he can sell them with or without the option. The dealer has the option according to him.
Perhaps taking a page from the EV car world where some manufacturers offer performance upgrades through software un-lock. Presumably due to increase potential wear and warranty exposure?
 
Follow up to my own question…I was at a dealer today who let me see the bike. They had already done and update to the bike, so I’m not sure which class it is set to when it arrives at the dealer. That being said, you can switch it between modes via the remote, and when you turn the bike off it defaults back to class 1.
 
All UK, EU bikes will be set to 25kph with no option to alter class. Frames are labelled under top tube.
USA bikes have class change.
 
I have been riding ebikes for the last 9 years and the 20mph limiter is just plain dangerous if you are running a jump line or bike park. it is different that the EU/UK because intermediate jumps are around 20mph so having it cut in and out on the ramp is how you get hurt. my buddy just recovering from a broken wrist and blames the limiter. yes there is no need for the bike to be powered to 28mph but it does need to be fully powered to 23mph imo to make it feel natural. Heavier bikes makes this even more important. My gen 3 has the setting for the rear wheel circumference (allowed to be changed at the LBS) set to the lowest number. This gives me 2-3 more mph before cut out and now its not a problem at all. really 2 more MPH is all we need. Also the average speed increase on an ebike is only a few mph for the average rider and strong regular riders even single speeders still have all the records on strava so everyone needs to take a chill.
 
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I have been riding ebikes for the last 9 years and the 20mph limiter is just plain dangerous if you are running a jump line or bike park. it is different that the EU/UK because intermediate jumps are around 20mph so having it cut in and out on the ramp is how you get hurt. my buddy just recovering from a broken wrist and blames the limiter. yes there is no need for the bike to be powered to 28mph but it does need to be powered to 23mph imo to make it feel natural. Heavier bikes makes this even more important. My gen 3 has the setting for the rear wheel circumference (allowed to be changed at the LBS) set to the lowest number. This gives me 2-3 more mph before cut out and now its not a problem at all. really 2 more MPH is all we need. Also the average speed increase on an ebike is only a few mph for the average rider and strong regular riders even single speeders still have all the records on strava so everyone needs to take a chill.

Where does it end though?

As jumps get bigger and more challenging, we could keep going through the “just 2 or 3 mph more” until somewhere down the line you need 25-30mph to clear them.

The e-bike cut off pedal assistance speed is for road going bikes, if the bike parks etc are on private land and they’re being taken there in a van (most likely a VW T5/6 by the looks of it! 😏😂) then getting the bike de-restricted is a legal option to explore?

Also, and I’m sure you know this, 25kph isn’t the max speed and you can pedal faster just like the ‘normal’ unpowered bikes do, and many current e-bikes pedal very well over the limit but they’re still big heavy bikes.
 
Where does it end though?

As jumps get bigger and more challenging, we could keep going through the “just 2 or 3 mph more” until somewhere down the line you need 25-30mph to clear them.

The e-bike cut off pedal assistance speed is for road going bikes, if the bike parks etc are on private land and they’re being taken there in a van (most likely a VW T5/6 by the looks of it! 😏😂) then getting the bike de-restricted is a legal option to explore?

Also, and I’m sure you know this, 25kph isn’t the max speed and you can pedal faster just like the ‘normal’ unpowered bikes do, and many current e-bikes pedal very well over the limit but they’re still big heavy bikes.
it ends when gravity takes over and thats around 22-23mph for a 53 lb bike.

ps. Never go full eTard ;P
 
it ends when gravity takes over and thats around 22-23mph for a 53 lb bike.

ps. Never go full eTard ;P

Well, I wouldn’t describe myself as an ‘eTard’ but I understand how gravity works and that it doesn’t standby and ‘take over’ at a certain speed…

Perhaps a longer run in is in order?! 🤔
 
Gen 1 was super easy to fully unlock with a bluetooth hack 9 years ago. Fact is you just can't use the full potential speed of the bike on MTB trails and even on the road you can only pedal to about 30mph with mtb gears on a steep downhill. Riders are only going to go the speed they are reasonably comfortable with and most trails are speed limiting by nature, meaning you can only go so fast on a winding trail without going off line or crashing. Point is an ebike doesnt give you the skills to go faster just the power. And..., just because you can go fast doesn't mean you WILL use that ability in a dangerous way. Ebikers are not an automatic liability to others. Lets embrace personal responsibilty just like we do with cars. Like do you trust the guy driving the fully unlocked tesla around town? haha I trust the guy more than the car. ;P
 
Well, I wouldn’t describe myself as an ‘eTard’ but I understand how gravity works and that it doesn’t standby and ‘take over’ at a certain speed…

Perhaps a longer run in is in order?! 🤔
Im saying an eTard is a person with an eCar and an eBike on the back. hahaha.
Gravity absolutely takes over as you gain speed on a downhill or even a small dip in the trail.
Thats why the speedlimiter is annoying because even a small dip in the trail can cause it to cut in and out disturbing your flow.
 
The biggest question is, what is a reasonable price for derestriction (not matching speed/ data info)
 
🥳 now to work on chip design etc
IMG_4804.jpeg
 
there is no need for the bike to be powered to 28mph
Where you live that may be true. Here in the endurance capitol of the world, im running on the 28 mph limiter all day.

I do ride 400 miles a month. Average ride is 25 miles and climbing 3500' in elevation. Honestly wish it was just open. I think for the year im at 2100 miles
 
I have been riding ebikes for the last 9 years and the 20mph limiter is just plain dangerous if you are running a jump line or bike park. it is different that the EU/UK because intermediate jumps are around 20mph so having it cut in and out on the ramp is how you get hurt. my buddy just recovering from a broken wrist and blames the limiter. yes there is no need for the bike to be powered to 28mph but it does need to be fully powered to 23mph imo to make it feel natural. Heavier bikes makes this even more important. My gen 3 has the setting for the rear wheel circumference (allowed to be changed at the LBS) set to the lowest number. This gives me 2-3 more mph before cut out and now its not a problem at all. really 2 more MPH is all we need. Also the average speed increase on an ebike is only a few mph for the average rider and strong regular riders even single speeders still have all the records on Strava so everyone needs to take a chill.Tthere is no need for the bike to be powered to 23mph but it does need to be fully powered to 28mph
There is no need for the bike to be powered to 23mph but it does need to be fully powered to 28mph!!
 
I am not for or against this feature but I just want to put some actual facts out there of how this bike functions in the realm of reality. It seems like most peoples opinions are based off mental constructs that have no real world groundings. First, its not like this bike is a Surron and you can spin the bike to 28 mph with zero effort. Over 20mphs the bike drops to 250watts (in class 3) and getting above 23-24mphs on a slight dirt incline it takes effort (+300watts), which only increases as you push for 28. So your average joe climbing 3-5% incline on dirt is never hitting 28. Now what the bike does allow for is a smooth transition over that 20mph barrier if you actually get there, and its almost certainly will be on the downs. Also for you folks that are arm chairing comments, you can't flip from class 1 to 3 on the fly without stopping not to select class 3 or vice versa. You can however leave the bike in class 3 and ride full power up to 20mph and then reduce to 250 watts up till 28mph. In practice you need to either be on a flat road / paved path / or downhill to hit 28mph unless you got some serious legs.

The only part I will advocate for is that smooth transition over 20mphs, not feeling that sudden dead stop is truly amazing.
 
leave the bike in class 3 and ride full power up to 20mph and then reduce to 250 watts up till 28mph
Curious what your sources are for this.

Was hoping this bike would give more power between 20 to 28 than 250w.

Makes a good case to go Amflow
 
Curious what your sources are for this.

Was hoping this bike would give more power between 20 to 28 than 250w.

Makes a good case to go Amflow
In the US there is no power drop in class 3 mode and no transition at 20mph. It works as advertised. Sure it takes a few second to select the mode when starting but its a small compromise. I rarely need it but its nice to have.
Thanks Specialized.
 
Why do you say that?
Im buying one of the two bikes for speed over 20. 20 is way to slow around here, everyone runs class 3 at minimum. Even at 28 i bounce off the limiter everyday. If the gen 4 was limited in class 3, i would never own it.

The Amflow is lighter and faster, the Sworks is more customizable and heavier. Both are faster than my ep801 Canyon
 
Curious what your sources are for this.

Was hoping this bike would give more power between 20 to 28 than 250w.

Makes a good case to go Amflow
My source is I own a Gen4 S-works bike. As someone also stated it was my understanding the amflow is only a class 1 bike so if you want 28mph assist your going to have to pedal really hard once you hit 20mph on the amflow.
 
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Im buying one of the two bikes for speed over 20. 20 is way to slow around here, everyone runs class 3 at minimum. Even at 28 i bounce off the limiter everyday. If the gen 4 was limited in class 3, i would never own it.

The Amflow is lighter and faster, the Sworks is more customizable and heavier. Both are faster than my ep801 Canyon

I think your missing the point, in class 3 the Gen4 allows you to smoothly pass the 20mph cutoff and go power assisted up to 28. Its an incredibly nice feature as the sudden cutoff at 20mph SUCKs. I hit 28mph every time I ride my bike but its on descents and flows where power isn't as much an issue but helps you get to 28 way faster. What I will say when you select class 3 the bike screen says (Limited to 250 Watts). To me the bike feels it maintains full power up to 20 mph, and after that it feels the power reduces slightly from 20-->28mph and then cuts off at 28. If someone has seen a bench test for power (in class 3) between 20-28 power output can you please link?
Also, without replacing the 34-tooth chainring with a 36-tooth you will really be spinning high RPMs up near 28 and above. And honestly I prefer the 34 for punch on the steep terrain were I ride.
 
I think your missing the point
No i understand fully. I an on the 28 limiter all day on my current bike. Lots of steep hills here. What im saying is if the gen 4 is restricting power after 20 to 250W I wont own it period.

Some people have stated that is not correct, and may be because of European specs. Here in USA they have stated bike has full power to 28 like any other class 3
 
No i understand fully. I an on the 28 limiter all day on my current bike. Lots of steep hills here. What im saying is if the gen 4 is restricting power after 20 to 250W I wont own it period.

Some people have stated that is not correct, and may be because of European specs. Here in USA they have stated bike has full power to 28 like any other class 3
I've seen an email someone posted from Specialized Customer Care, that said , there was no reduction in power above 20mph when class 3/28mph was selected...
 
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No i understand fully. I an on the 28 limiter all day on my current bike. Lots of steep hills here. What im saying is if the gen 4 is restricting power after 20 to 250W I wont own it period.

Some people have stated that is not correct, and may be because of European specs. Here in USA they have stated bike has full power to 28 like any other class 3
Again, I would like to see this from a dyno test and not "Bob from specialized said". What are you riding currently that you are on the "28 limiter" all day? And are you going up or down these hills on the 28 limiter? I guess I am not understanding a need for 700 watts of power going downhill, uphill sure, but if that's the case I know from experience that if your climbing with this bike (>6%) you best have some serious legs to hold 28 mph for extended periods of time. Since all we have is he said she said it has full power above 20mph... all I can say is the bike smoothly transitions over 20 mph up to 28 and you get the cutoff.
 
What are you riding currently that you are on the "28 limiter" all day?
And are you going up or down these hills on the 28 limiter?
600w / 85 nm motor. And a little of both, im hitting 40 everyday on pavement downhills, im in the 30's on single track downhill, and you are trying to carry speed on the flats to climb up the next grade. There should be no cutting out at 28 but im stuck with it for now. Its BS to have limiters. Our hills are to steep and long so you may hit the bottom at 28 when climbing but your speed tapers off quickly when climbing. The 20mph limiter is pathetic and it is a joke, only way to understand why 20 is a joke is to run at 28, and if you are 100% uncorked you realize why 28 sucks azz. I hit the 28 limiter often every day, but I push going down and as much as I can going up. Pushing is the key word, some people ride like it is a race, and some people just cruise. KOMs are tough on strava here in the endurance capitol of the world, so you better learn to push if you want to be competitive. And im the slowest in my groups.
 
KOMs are tough on strava here in the endurance capitol of the world, so you better learn to push if you want to be competitive. And im the slowest in my groups.
I know your terrain (I used to ride a lot in Auburn etc) and I am surprised that you can even ride E-bikes there. Or are you riding designated moto trails like up in Downieville?
 
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