Headset bearings for my bike

EMTBSEAN

EMTBSEAN

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I have looked online at headset bearings but there’s nothing better than a recommended product, I have a 2020 V1 e150rs, I want some bearings but not cheap bearings, just a decent pair that’ll last a few years, so any recommendation for a pair would be great and possibly a link please 👍
 
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Go to Trail Vision and look up their Blue seal bearings.

Trailvision - Bicycle Specific Bearings

They do everything they can to help you identify the size and spec of bearing you need. Just have a good look around.

When I first went to the site I was impressed with the specification of the bearings and I expected that they would be "reassuringly expensive", but nope! They are competitively priced.

If all else fails give them a call.
 
I just found what I was looking for on the Trail Vision website. I have no financial interest in Trail Vision

Blue Seal Bearings
ABEC 3 as Standard
Most non-bike specific bearings are ABEC 1 as standard. Blue seal Bike Bearings™ are all ABEC 3 Rated, this higher class of bearing runs smoother & last longer.

Max. Fill Premium Grease​

Standard bearings contain a small amount of basic bearing grease (Approx. 20%) which offers little protection towards corrosion and rain and dirt ingress.
Blue seal Bike Bearings™ contain the maximum fill of Mobil waterproof grease possible without compromising the function of the close-contact rubber seals.

Close Contact 2RS LLU Seals​

Blue seal Bike Bearings™ have top-quality LLU 2RS close-contact rubber seals. The tighter the seal is to the inner bearing race the harder for water and dirt to get in and the grease to get out!

Designed For Bicycles​

Specially engineered bicycle bearings. Designed for maximum efficiency, they outperform standard bearings.
 
steve_sordy said:
I just found what I was looking for on the Trail Vision website. I have no financial interest in Trail Vision

Blue Seal Bearings
ABEC 3 as Standard
Most non-bike specific bearings are ABEC 1 as standard. Blue seal Bike Bearings™ are all ABEC 3 Rated, this higher class of bearing runs smoother & last longer.

Max. Fill Premium Grease​

Standard bearings contain a small amount of basic bearing grease (Approx. 20%) which offers little protection towards corrosion and rain and dirt ingress.
Blue seal Bike Bearings™ contain the maximum fill of Mobil waterproof grease possible without compromising the function of the close-contact rubber seals.

Close Contact 2RS LLU Seals​

Blue seal Bike Bearings™ have top-quality LLU 2RS close-contact rubber seals. The tighter the seal is to the inner bearing race the harder for water and dirt to get in and the grease to get out!

Designed For Bicycles​

Specially engineered bicycle bearings. Designed for maximum efficiency, they outperform standard bearings.
Click to expand...
I very much appreciate your feedback Steve and taking the time to type all that information mate, I think what I’m going to do is, WHEN, my eyes are finally sorted out, and I can see clearly, I’m going strip my bike down and look at the condition of the other parts (not just the bearings) and make a decision on what I’m going to buy, I might need the other parts in the headset too, I seem to remember there being some stuff in there that had some light rust on them that I cleaned in my ultrasonic cleaner and I refitted them, I was looking at those pick ‘n’ mix headset parts from Hope, nevertheless I’m really grateful to you for your help mate 🙏
 
vertrkr said:

Headset Bearings | Replacement Bearings for Bicycle Headsets - Cane Creek Cycling Components

All Cane Creek headset bearings are durable, sealed cartridge bearings, and they’re interchangeable between headset series. Simply match the bearing size and drop in your new bearing. Upgrade your bicycle headset bearings today.
canecreek.com
Click to expand...
Much appreciated for the link mate, like I said to Steve, I’m going to strip my bike down and have a look at the existing stuff I my head tube and make a decision on what to do next 🙏👍
 
The ABEC rating refers to the degree of accuracy of the ball bearings. That is important for a very fast running bearing but not so much for any bearing in a bike. A slow running bearing such as pivot bearings and headset bearings can have closer tighter fitting seals on both sides since protection is more important than the amount of additional friction those seals create. Wheel and hub bearings need to be free moving however so lighter seals are invariably used for those bearings....and yes protection is less. There are a rguments for and against stainless steel bearings...other options include expensive ceramic bearings.
I use Enduro bearings and never found them any problem, and most bearing suppliers stock them.

The key to problem free bike bearings is more about proper installation (using the appropriate press), maintenance (headest bearings should be cleaned and greased regularly) and sympathetic bike cleaning plus the use of guards where appropriate ( e.g rear mudguard to protect seat post/shock and lower pivot bearings).

ps for pivot bearings, when I clean the bike I use a stiff brush to clean the bearing spacers followed by using a pipecleaner to clean the complete circumference. I then drip some all weather lube on them........clean off after 10 mins or so again with a pipe cleaner. I have a front Mudhugger fitted on the back of the bike all year round. I suplement that with the big Mudhugger fitted over the top with reuseable zip ties as and when needed for really mucky conditions.
I have never had to replace a pivot bearing!! Similarly I service the freehub (clean and regrease) every 3/4 months. Everytime I remove the front or rear wheel I smear grease on the thru axle before re inserting and torqueing.
 
My experience in recent years has been limited to Cane Creak, which came on my current bike, and Chris King, which I now run.

The original headset was fine until it was several months old. Then it started getting louder and louder. The bearings appeared fine, but no amount of servicing would quiet them down. At first I thought of just replacing what I had. But that made no sense if they would start making noise again in a few months. Cane Creek makes a higher end product, which they claim is the greatest thing since sliced bread. But it's expensive. Cane Creek also makes a super-enhanced headset which is better than sliced bread, and eliminates all the weaknesses of their less expensive. After viewing their web site, I got pissed. They make all these different products, which they all claim are great. If that's the case, why would anyone buy anything but the cheapest one? The more expensive versions wouldn't even be needed. Something didn't add up. That's when I decided to quit screwing around and just pony up for the best: Chris King.

The Chris King is nice. Frankly, the bearings just look like bearings. Expensive bearings and cheap imports look the same to me. The first thing I noticed was the bottom race that goes on your fork. The Cane Creak is just a stamped out part that costs a nickel to make. The King race is actually ground to precise dimensions. The stack of bits that goes not he top is also very different on the King. The whole purpose of the top stack is to clamp the steerer tube tight. The way King arranges the preload and clamp is patented, and it really does hold everything together tight. I think that's why King headsets are so quiet--noise is created when parts move ever so slightly. King's design eliminates this movement. The tightness is evident when you disassemble it. The clamp doesn't just fall apart like on a Cane Creak. On the King, you have to tap it with a mallet.

The other think I like about King is their philosophy that bearings need to be serviced if you want them to last forever. They provide explicit instructions on how to disassemble their fancy seals and repack the bearings.

So that's the end of the story. King makes a technologically superior product, and makes their parts more precisely. The Kings cost twice as much. Is it worth it? That's something everyone has to determine for themselves.

My log shows that I got 2064 miles out of the Cane Creek. But the headset was noisy for about half that time. It just took me that long to solve the problem. The King has about 2400 miles on it, and is perfectly silent. It's still as smooth as warm butter.
 
Another tip is to occasionally force some grease into the slight gap between the head tube and crown with your finger...wipe clean afterwards. That creates a barrier against water and dust ingress there.
 
My experience of blue seal bearings was not good.

One collapsed completely, all the balls fell out. I only noticed because of a noise. By then the bolt had become the bearing surface and had the side of it worn off. This was after 3 months of use!!

www.emtbforums.com

Levo Gen 2 - Horst link dramatic bearing failure

This bearing is one of the middle Horst link ones. I’ve never had a bearing fail like this, completely in pieces all the balls missing and the bolt chewing up the Horst link!! They were all changed about 3 months ago. Around the time a ttx coil was fitted. Tbh I only noticed because the...
www.emtbforums.com www.emtbforums.com


I took the whole lot out and put Enduro Max in.

I couldn't really face taking this up with Trailvision, only to end up with another set of bearings I'm unwilling to use, so I never even mentioned it to them.
 
Mikerb said:
Another tip is to occasionally force some grease into the slight gap between the head tube and crown with your finger...wipe clean afterwards. That creates a barrier against water and dust ingress there.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mike, I never thought of that 🙏😉
 
James_C said:
My experience of blue seal bearings was not good.

One collapsed completely, all the balls fell out. I only noticed because of a noise. By then the bolt had become the bearing surface and had the side of it worn off. This was after 3 months of use!!

www.emtbforums.com

Levo Gen 2 - Horst link dramatic bearing failure

This bearing is one of the middle Horst link ones. I’ve never had a bearing fail like this, completely in pieces all the balls missing and the bolt chewing up the Horst link!! They were all changed about 3 months ago. Around the time a ttx coil was fitted. Tbh I only noticed because the...
www.emtbforums.com www.emtbforums.com


I took the whole lot out and put Enduro Max in.

I couldn't really face taking this up with Trailvision, only to end up with another set of bearings I'm unwilling to use, so I never even mentioned it to them.
Click to expand...
How disappointing to hear that, most unexpected based upon my experience. :(
 
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