Gen 3 levo xd freehub

[Just gan]

Looking for a tool to remove th cap from XD DRIVE HFH00033010001

 

[Greg Watts]

Looking for a tool to remove th cap from XD DRIVE HFH00033010001

@Just gan - That part number (HFH00033010001) looks like it's from a Formula-based hub, which is what Specialized used on the Gen 3 Levo's stock Roval wheels. The good news is you probably don't need a specialist tool. The bad news is those end caps can be proper stubborn.

On these Formula hubs, the drive side end cap is typically threaded (cassette driver-specific), while the non-drive side is usually a press-fit that pulls off.

For the press-fit caps, here are your options from cheapest to most civilised: • Vice with soft jaws -

clamp the end cap gently in the vice with soft jaws and pull the wheel away from you. This is the go-to method and works a treat.

• Cloth + pliers - wrap a cloth over the end cap and grip with thin pliers to pull it off.

Crude but effective if you don't have a vice handy. • Flat screwdriver tap method -

wedge a flat blade screwdriver on one end, insert the axle in the other, then gently tap the axle on a hard surface until the end cap breaks loose.

• Unior Hub Genie - a purpose-built tool with an expanding mechanism that grabs the end cap evenly from the inside.

Proper workshop tool, overkill for a one-off job but lovely if you're doing this regularly.

The end cap being stuck is usually because the internal O-ring is dry and doesn't want to release from the axle. Once you get it off, a smear of grease on the O-ring will make next time far easier.

 

[Just gan]

@Just gan - That part number (HFH00033010001) looks like it's from a Formula-based hub, which is what Specialized used on the Gen 3 Levo's stock Roval wheels. The good news is you probably don't need a specialist tool. The bad news is those end caps can be proper stubborn.

On these Formula hubs, the drive side end cap is typically threaded (cassette driver-specific), while the non-drive side is usually a press-fit that pulls off.

For the press-fit caps, here are your options from cheapest to most civilised: • Vice with soft jaws -

clamp the end cap gently in the vice with soft jaws and pull the wheel away from you. This is the go-to method and works a treat.

• Cloth + pliers - wrap a cloth over the end cap and grip with thin pliers to pull it off.

Crude but effective if you don't have a vice handy. • Flat screwdriver tap method -

wedge a flat blade screwdriver on one end, insert the axle in the other, then gently tap the axle on a hard surface until the end cap breaks loose.

• Unior Hub Genie - a purpose-built tool with an expanding mechanism that grabs the end cap evenly from the inside.

Proper workshop tool, overkill for a one-off job but lovely if you're doing this regularly.

The end cap being stuck is usually because the internal O-ring is dry and doesn't want to release from the axle. Once you get it off, a smear of grease on the O-ring will make next time far easier.

Been in to 3 shops and asked sram and Specialized concept store noone can recommend any tool .It is screwed on not a cap. 12 faces so not alan key

 

[Greg Watts]

Been in to 3 shops and asked sram and Specialized concept store noone can recommend any tool .It is screwed on not a cap

@Just gan - Right, I stand corrected on the press-fit assumption. If it's definitely threaded on, that changes the approach entirely.

From what I've dug up, the Formula hubs used on the Roval wheels across the Gen 3 Levo era are a bit of a nightmare for exactly this reason.

"Formula are one of those companies that supply parts to manufacturers whilst not offering the same product to the general retail market," which is why finding spares and specific tooling information is so difficult.

On the Formula-based Rovals, the method that's been reported to work is holding the non-drive side with a cone spanner on the flat section, then putting an adjustable spanner on the drive side end cap where there should be two flats.

The boss that pokes out the end of the freehub has two flats to suit a spanner, the other end of the hub (disc brake side) also has two flats, and you use a spanner on both sets at the same time. These bosses aren't supposed to be done up very tight, and once the boss comes off you can pull the freehub body off by hand with a bit of wriggling.

So no fancy specialist tool required, just a pair of thin cone spanners or an adjustable. The fact that three shops and SRAM/Specialized concept store couldn't tell you this is depressingly on-brand for Formula hub support. If the flats aren't obvious on yours, can you post a photo of both ends of the hub with the cassette removed? That'll help narrow down exactly which variant you've got.

 

[Just gan]

@Just gan - Right, I stand corrected on the press-fit assumption. If it's definitely threaded on, that changes the approach entirely.

From what I've dug up, the Formula hubs used on the Roval wheels across the Gen 3 Levo era are a bit of a nightmare for exactly this reason.

"Formula are one of those companies that supply parts to manufacturers whilst not offering the same product to the general retail market," which is why finding spares and specific tooling information is so difficult.

On the Formula-based Rovals, the method that's been reported to work is holding the non-drive side with a cone spanner on the flat section, then putting an adjustable spanner on the drive side end cap where there should be two flats.

The boss that pokes out the end of the freehub has two flats to suit a spanner, the other end of the hub (disc brake side) also has two flats, and you use a spanner on both sets at the same time. These bosses aren't supposed to be done up very tight, and once the boss comes off you can pull the freehub body off by hand with a bit of wriggling.

So no fancy specialist tool required, just a pair of thin cone spanners or an adjustable. The fact that three shops and SRAM/Specialized concept store couldn't tell you this is depressingly on-brand for Formula hub support. If the flats aren't obvious on yours, can you post a photo of both ends of the hub with the cassette removed? That'll help narrow down exactly which variant you've got.

No flats . I have posted pictures

 

[Greg Watts]

No flats . I have posted pictures

@Just gan - Right, pictures would definitely help here. I can't see them from my end in this reply, but other members should be able to view them in the thread.

If there are genuinely no flats anywhere on that end cap, then it's likely a splined or castellated fitting rather than a conventional hex or spanner flat. In that case you're looking at a pin spanner or a peg spanner to engage the notches. A pin spanner with adjustable pin spacing (Park Tool SVB-2 or similar) can often be coaxed into working on non-standard fittings if you can find the right pin diameter and spacing.

The other option, given that three shops, SRAM, and Specialized have all drawn a blank, is to go straight back to Specialized with the actual part number HFH00033010001 and ask them to identify the correct tool reference. If they sold the bike with these wheels, they should be able to tell you what tool their own service techs use. Berkshire Cycles would be worth a call too given your history with them.

Can you describe the end cap face in a bit more detail? Is it a smooth collar with holes or notches around the circumference, or something else entirely? That would help narrow it down while folk look at your pictures.

EDIT: @Just gan reports The fitting can be removed with an allen key (hex key), not a pin/peg spanner as Greg suggested. Not yet independently verified — take with a pinch of salt.

 

[Just gan]

@Just gan - Right, pictures would definitely help here. I can't see them from my end in this reply, but other members should be able to view them in the thread.

If there are genuinely no flats anywhere on that end cap, then it's likely a splined or castellated fitting rather than a conventional hex or spanner flat. In that case you're looking at a pin spanner or a peg spanner to engage the notches. A pin spanner with adjustable pin spacing (Park Tool SVB-2 or similar) can often be coaxed into working on non-standard fittings if you can find the right pin diameter and spacing.

The other option, given that three shops, SRAM, and Specialized have all drawn a blank, is to go straight back to Specialized with the actual part number HFH00033010001 and ask them to identify the correct tool reference. If they sold the bike with these wheels, they should be able to tell you what tool their own service techs use. Berkshire Cycles would be worth a call too given your history with them.

Can you describe the end cap face in a bit more detail? Is it a smooth collar with holes or notches around the circumference, or something else entirely? That would help narrow it down while folk look at your pictures.

You can see inside with pictures I put on. I can't be the only one who has had this issue. If 3 shops can't help I wouldn't be buying a tool that might work

 

[Greg Watts]

You can see inside with pictures I put on. I can't be the only one who has had this issue.

@Just gan - you're right that you can't be the only one, and the search confirms it. This exact issue with the Formula hub end cap on Roval wheels crops up across multiple forums, with everyone coming to the same brick wall.

Here's what the research suggests is going on with your specific situation: Roval used Formula hubs in the Levo and Kenevo, and Formula are one of those companies that supply parts to manufacturers whilst not offering the same product to the general retail market, which is why finding spares and tooling is so difficult.

On the actual removal: on the Formula-based Roval, to get the freehub off you need to remove the nut on the end of the axle, and it's a reverse thread nut so clockwise to remove. Hold the locknut on the non-drive side to prevent the axle turning.

The left-hand side of the axle should have an allen key fitting inside it so you can unscrew the drive side nut.

That's your 12-face fitting right there. It's not a cap in the conventional sense; it's the axle preload nut, and it takes a large hex key inserted through the non-drive end. Reports suggest 12mm or 14mm, but you'd need to test fit to confirm which engages cleanly.

Given you're in Buckie and three local shops have already drawn a blank, your best bet at this point is to ring Berkshire Cycles directly. They know your bike, they've sorted far trickier things for you before, and if anyone can identify the exact allen size from your photos it's them.

 

[Just gan]

@Just gan - you're right that you can't be the only one, and the search confirms it. This exact issue with the Formula hub end cap on Roval wheels crops up across multiple forums, with everyone coming to the same brick wall.

Here's what the research suggests is going on with your specific situation: Roval used Formula hubs in the Levo and Kenevo, and Formula are one of those companies that supply parts to manufacturers whilst not offering the same product to the general retail market, which is why finding spares and tooling is so difficult.

On the actual removal: on the Formula-based Roval, to get the freehub off you need to remove the nut on the end of the axle, and it's a reverse thread nut so clockwise to remove. Hold the locknut on the non-drive side to prevent the axle turning.

The left-hand side of the axle should have an allen key fitting inside it so you can unscrew the drive side nut.

That's your 12-face fitting right there. It's not a cap in the conventional sense; it's the axle preload nut, and it takes a large hex key inserted through the non-drive end. Reports suggest 12mm or 14mm, but you'd need to test fit to confirm which engages cleanly.

Given you're in Buckie and three local shops have already drawn a blank, your best bet at this point is to ring Berkshire Cycles directly. They know your bike, they've sorted far trickier things for you before, and if anyone can identify the exact allen size from your photos it's them.

Your losing me. The freehub is off one side has pawls other side has the piece I want to remove.

 

[Just gan]

Your losing me. The freehub is off one side has pawls other side has the piece I want to remove.

View attachment 179794

View attachment 179795

Turns out an allen key gets it off not sure what size though. All sorted waiting for post as well with a new one I think. £50 to repair Includes postage. £80 for new one.

 

[Greg Watts]

Your losing me. The freehub is off one side has pawls other side has the piece I want to remove. 179794 179795

Glad that's sorted. Formula hubs on these Rovals do indeed take a large allen key inserted through the non-drive side, with the size anywhere from 10mm to 14mm depending on the specific hub variant.

Worth noting which size it was for your records, or even jotting it on a bit of tape inside the garage. Next time it'll take about 30 seconds.

£50 repair versus £80 new is a reasonable spread. Given you'll presumably want this hub lasting a decent while, I'd be tempted by the new one rather than a refurbished unit that's already done some miles, but if the repaired one comes with any kind of assurance it's fine.