EP8 with 630 battery maximum range ?

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Eco set to low and all climbing done slowly in good dry conditions with a light fit rider and low rolling resistance tyres?
maybe
 
Thank you for the info, so still king of the long travels is Levo - 700 battery + Levo SL with range extender.
Maybe it will be good Orbea Rise + range extender , but we have to wait for more information from users.
I read the reviews Santa Cruz Bullit with engine EP8 and has a short range.
It's a pity because it will be soon new Canyon Spectral Ep8 , it's a good bike for long travels.
 
Range will depend on your riding style, ambient temperature and weight. In the winter my range has decreased on the battery due to low temps, if I keep it in eco mode I get greater distance than boost and as I loose a bit of weight in can go further.
 
I once did 2300hm with bt-8010 and mostly Eco low but also some trail and boost. Plus the battery wasn't completely drained so 2400/2500hm seems to be possibly. I weighed around 70kg and cadence was between 70-100rpm with mostly lowest gear and mostly asphalt.
 
Better to gauge by hours, IMO.

If you got it set to Eco and the motor is using half its power, you might get at least 4 hours if it sucks up only about 125W per hour. I doubt that, based on my experience with the E8000 and 504 Wh battery. I get under 3 hours in eco, so I guess it's taking up more than 150 W per hour on average.

I've seen power output graphs, comparing motors, and it showed the E8000 using up 450W peak. I'm guessing the increased torque from the EP8 doesn't help it much. The E8000 doesn't have much drag from what I can tell. I suspect that the difference is them switching from sprag clutch to roller clutch--sprag clutch is always in contact (draggy), is heavier, needs tighter tolerances. Perhaps it's the roller clutch that is clacking on them.
 
From my experience range is determined by climbing and cadence.

Ignoring the variables of rider weight, bike weight, and choice of tire, what eats up the battery is when you are using the motor most for assistance, and how you pedal in that situation.

Predominantly this is when climbing, so you could go for a short ride with a lot of elevation, and get far less range than a much longer ride with less elevation.

I think since its very easy to get away with not being in the right gear on an EMTB, a lot of riders get lazy with gear changes. If you are on top of your gear changes, and match your cadence to the sweet spot of the motor, then you will see an improvement in range.
 
Yeah you're right but I feel like the biggest factor is still rider weight. When riding identical bikes in my experience the lighter rider has more battery left even if he or she uses higher assist modes. Fitness hasn't a big effect because of all the muscle weight to motor has to carry but doesn't assist pedalling. Think of the classic couple with fit 100kg male with big backpack and 60 kg female with smaller backpack. The 40 kg wieght difference will eat up the most battery because it constantly drags, no matter what cadence or assist mode.
 
Yeah you're right but I feel like the biggest factor is still rider weight. When riding identical bikes in my experience the lighter rider has more battery left even if he or she uses higher assist modes. Fitness hasn't a big effect because of all the muscle weight to motor has to carry but doesn't assist pedalling. Think of the classic couple with fit 100kg male with big backpack and 60 kg female with smaller backpack. The 40 kg wieght difference will eat up the most battery because it constantly drags, no matter what cadence or assist mode.

Possibly. But two riders of identical weight will also get different distances. Tyre options, fitness and mode choice will also have a bearing on distance. So will effort. Cruising around a track will use less power than going as hard as possible. A fat, unfit dickhead on maxx grip tyres, like me, will get less range than a super fit guy of the same weight on cross country tyres. It's unrealistic to blame it all on weight alone, I think.

Gordon
 
Yeah you're right but I feel like the biggest factor is still rider weight. When riding identical bikes in my experience the lighter rider has more battery left even if he or she uses higher assist modes. Fitness hasn't a big effect because of all the muscle weight to motor has to carry but doesn't assist pedalling. Think of the classic couple with fit 100kg male with big backpack and 60 kg female with smaller backpack. The 40 kg wieght difference will eat up the most battery because it constantly drags, no matter what cadence or assist mode.
Spot on this is literally me and the wife, and she’s always got more battery left after an identical ride
 
Maybe it will be good Orbea Rise + range extender , but we have to wait for more information from users.
I read the reviews Santa Cruz Bullit with engine EP8 and has a short range.

You're asking a question to which there is no answer. It's ALL about how you CHOOSE to ride.

For comparison, if I'm being lazy, I can drain my battery in 16 miles and 3500 feet. On a much more serious ride, I've done 20 miles and 4000 feet with half the battery remaining. If we were to extrapolate, it wouldn't surprise me if you could do 40+ miles and 6500 feet, but you'd have to be serious about conserving power.

You mentioned the Bullit. Last week I rode with two friends on Bullits. I'm on a Heckler (smaller battery). We kept a pretty fast pace over 22 miles and 3500 feet. His Bullit crapped out about 150 yards from the trucks. My Heckler made it about another 20 yards. How coincidental is that?! She got back to the truck with two bars showing.

The whole moral to this story is that if anyone tells you that a bike can/can't do a certain amount of distance/climbing, politely nod and acknowledge them, but remember that whatever is coming out of their pie hole is gibberish. It's like some jamoke asking if his bike can jump a five meter gap. Of course the BIKE can, but the REAL question is whether the RIDER can do it.
 
Is it possible 37-43miles + 6500 ft (eco mode) ?

I have done 151km or 93mi and 1196m or 3900ft on E8000/500Wh, in Eco-low (20% assist, 30Nm)
So, I am convinced that I can do more with more efficient/lighter/more powerful/higher capacity EP8/630Wh. I will let you know once I have tested it.

However, having done E8000 test, I have to admit that riding in Eco-low is defeating the point of having an e-MTB. I would be faster and had more fun riding analogue MTB rather than eMTB in Eco-low.
 
Your own weight is really the one thing that effects the battery capacity together with tires and the ground surface.
 
Is it possible 37-43miles + 6500 ft (eco mode) ?

Yes, I have done today 97km today and I have 62% battery charge left.
Admittedly, I have done first 40km with motor-off, but that means that 55km used only 38% of the batt charge. The 95km race had ascent of 3660ft and descent of 3661ft
 
Yes, I have done today 97km today and I have 62% battery charge left.
Admittedly, I have done first 40km with motor-off, but that means that 55km used only 38% of the batt charge. The 95km race had ascent of 3660ft and descent of 3661ft
Hey @Pivot, I am looking at a bike with the EP8.
Could you describe a bit more about this race you did with the EP8...what settings(assistance and torque) did you use? What was the terrain like? Which bike? Thanks 🤟⚡
 
Hey @Pivot, I am looking at a bike with the EP8.
Could you describe a bit more about this race you did with the EP8...what settings(assistance and torque) did you use? What was the terrain like? Which bike? Thanks

Hi @emtbeast

Last year L2B off-road was ~95km. Very well organised and run event. I saw 8-ebikes on the day, but must have been more, as there were ~3000 riders in total.
Registration is open for 2022 and I am doing it again.

There are check-points / pit-stops every 20km, so you can stop to eat/drink or just ride through. Last time we ignored the first pit-stop, next time I will stop at every checkpoint, as when I asked for my clocked time at the end, I was told they were clocking only to see that they didn’t lose anyone in a ditch somewhere so it’s a social ride, not a race.

There are 3 major up-hills, see attached profile from OS app.
IMG_0534.jpg


I rode on a brand new Ducati TK01RR (I got it via DHL 3 days before the ride) and I didn’t know by bikes range, so I set the Eco mode to 20% and I rode first 40km with the motor OFF.
I cleared the first hill with motor off, enjoyed the downhill and I switched the motor ON at the bottom of the second hill (what a relief )

The third hill is the killer, uphill lose gravel and stones, with people pushing their bikes. I went into Trail mode and I had probably the biggest grin ever! Many people pushing their bikes just gasped “I want one of those” , no one had any energy to come-up with any nasty one-liners

When I finished the ride I had 4 out of 5 battery bars on my display(?) I thought I should have been riding the whole ride with the motor on! When I connected to the App, I had 62% of battery left (IIRC)
Here are my modest settings for L2B ride:
IMG_0535.jpg


Anyway, I highly recommend the ride, next time I will have thicker-padded underpant, as that was the only aching part of my body. Otherwise I could ride another 50km, with pit-stops along the way.

See you there in September!
 
Weight and conditions play a massive part of battery life youl never answer this one too many variables
 
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