E-Sommet VR on Order.... So, what do I need to know

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Hi All

I'm an E-bike newbie, in fact this is my second post. I've got an E-Sommet VR on order so I just thought I'd gather some collective wisdom on the bike.

What needs doing to it? Any pitfalls I need to know? Does it convert to tubeless well? What tyre pressures are people running tubeless?

Many Thanks
Tim
 
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Common sense stuff really - Give it your own PDI as I had a few loose bolts and an incorrectly routed brake cable. Expect a bit swearing sorting out the dropper height :D

The glossy black paint scratches/scuffs really easy so helitape/invisiframe it if that's a worry.

Tubeless was easy (I use a compressor though), came with valves and the rim tape was good to go. I put a Rimpact insert in the rear as it's pretty rocky where I ride and it's harder to lift the rear end than on a regular bike.

Enjoy! :cool:
 
Cool, thanks for the input! In what way is the dropper an issue? I’m used to a Reverb which tends to be trouble free. Does the Brand X have a particular quirk?

Cheers, Tim
 
No quirk, but if you need to adjust the initial height of it, the cable routing is a PITA.
You'll see... :D
 
Use the steps app to see if there's a firmware update for the motor, latest one smoothed the transition of how the motor switches on and off.

Inner tubes as supplied are heavy DH ones so tubeless is a must. You will need tape and sealant. Mine went up easy with a ghetto inflator and soapy water.

Spray some silicone spray or furniture polish on the dropper cable outer if it's reluctant to move initially, it might save you having to drop the motor.
 
smokey_jo said:
Use the steps app to see if there's a firmware update for the motor, latest one smoothed the transition of how the motor switches on and off.

Inner tubes as supplied are heavy DH ones so tubeless is a must. You will need tape and sealant. Mine went up easy with a ghetto inflator and soapy water.

Spray some silicone spray or furniture polish on the dropper cable outer if it's reluctant to move initially, it might save you having to drop the motor.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that. I’ve got the app ready installed and ready to go.

I didn’t imagine the dropper could be THAT much of a PITA. Thanks for the heads up. I’ve got some silicone spray, so I’ll give that a go!
 
The main issue with the dropper is that they tend to install it with too much cable slack, and because its pretty tight around the shock/motor area where it comes out the downtube and into the seat tube it can easily get kinked/foul on something - just shorten the cable.
 
Check the box contents that you get everything your supposed to.. if anything is missing then Wiggle/CRC are quick to send out anything omitted.

Check the bike over very carefully for any damage and look at the signed off build sheet (will be a signed up A4 sheet listing items checked). Once again contact Wiggle/CRC with any issues, they either offer refunds, store credit or all the way up to returning the bike.

I didn't get any tracking it just turned up ~4 days after the order was processed.

If your fine with it set up the gears yourself from scratch or give it a good test out, I've seen people break teeth off and that's either the setup or them not shifting properly... probably a bit of both. I just set mine up out of the box and have had no issues.

I'd check the battery is in its housing solid and doesn't move see here:
I personally applied Loctite to the bolts when I setup my battery clamp adjustor.

On the topic i'd Loctite the spoke wheel magnet screw.. you definitely don't want this flying off into the bushes... I'd also Loctite all the other usual bolts.

Update the firmware for display, motor and switch via the app as it may have problems with the E7000 switch out of the box until you do. You may need to unplug the switch from the display during this process depending on the software version out of the box... once patched it fixes this issue with the switch.

I personally checked all the pivot bolts were at the correct Torque.

A common error is people turning on the bike with a foot on the pedal which causes an error during the bikes start up and self checking.. it's looking for Zero torque on the pedals to calibrate the zero point during start.. so if it sees any it throws an error.

Get a feel for battery usage... the lights on the battery and display are just a guide. Heavy use of the Boost mode coupled with steep climbs can rapidly deplete the battery. Overall its mainly a judgement of Distance/Altitude gained/Power Mode. I get anywhere from 15-24 miles with ~800-1000m of climbing the latter is Eco 95%+

Tubeless setup is the same as any other bike.. you should get tubeless valves in the box and the wheels should be pre installed with tubeless tape.
 
My dropper could be adjusted from bottom to maximum extension quite easily.

Too bad that M-size comes with shorter dropper as I think I'll change it to longer one in some point...
 
RocketMagnet said:
Check the box contents that you get everything your supposed to.. if anything is missing then Wiggle/CRC are quick to send out anything omitted.

Check the bike over very carefully for any damage and look at the signed off build sheet (will be a signed up A4 sheet listing items checked). Once again contact Wiggle/CRC with any issues, they either offer refunds, store credit or all the way up to returning the bike.

I didn't get any tracking it just turned up ~4 days after the order was processed.

If your fine with it set up the gears yourself from scratch or give it a good test out, I've seen people break teeth off and that's either the setup or them not shifting properly... probably a bit of both. I just set mine up out of the box and have had no issues.

I'd check the battery is in its housing solid and doesn't move see here:
I personally applied Loctite to the bolts when I setup my battery clamp adjustor.

On the topic i'd Loctite the spoke wheel magnet screw.. you definitely don't want this flying off into the bushes... I'd also Loctite all the other usual bolts.

Update the firmware for display, motor and switch via the app as it may have problems with the E7000 switch out of the box until you do. You may need to unplug the switch from the display during this process depending on the software version out of the box... once patched it fixes this issue with the switch.

I personally checked all the pivot bolts were at the correct Torque.

A common error is people turning on the bike with a foot on the pedal which causes an error during the bikes start up and self checking.. it's looking for Zero torque on the pedals to calibrate the zero point during start.. so if it sees any it throws an error.

Get a feel for battery usage... the lights on the battery and display are just a guide. Heavy use of the Boost mode coupled with steep climbs can rapidly deplete the battery. Overall its mainly a judgement of Distance/Altitude gained/Power Mode. I get anywhere from 15-24 miles with ~800-1000m of climbing the latter is Eco 95%+

Tubeless setup is the same as any other bike.. you should get tubeless valves in the box and the wheels should be pre installed with tubeless tape.
Click to expand...

Wow, that’s extensive. Many thanks! Is there a list of parts in the box so I can check everything’s there? If not, can you please give me a steer?

Thanks!!
 
From Memory:
Multi Tool
2X Additional Fork volume spaces (1X installed) so a total of 3.
Battery Charger
2X Touch up Paints (Green/Black)
1X safety check build sheet
1X Dork Disk
Numerous Manuals (Shimano Steps, Dropper post etc)
2X Battery Keys
Set of Pedals (I'd use your own though)
Pedal Spanner
Selection of Reflectors
Disk Pad Spacer
Some spare Screws and cable spacer clips.
1X Shimano Di2 E-tube plug Tool TL-EW02 (looks similar to a small tyre lever).. It's to make it easy to remove/install the electrical cables from the mode shifter to the display etc.
Shimano TL-EW02 Ultegra Di2 Plug Tool | BIKE TOOLS | Evans Cycles
 
Well, it’s arrived. Thanks for all the input. Everything’s seems to be there apart from the tubeless valves so I’ll call CRC about that.

All bolts checked
Battery’s charged
Tyres setup tubeless (with no issues)
Dropper sorted (you were right about it being fiddly)
Sag Set
Firmware updated

Just need to ride it now!

Again, thanks for the input!
 
Kicks out the front center another 20mm or so, lowers the grip height, steepens STA, lowers BB. I'd run cranks no longer than 165.
 
No offence but I cannot see why you would want to do that to a bike with the E-Sommett geometry
 
ninjichor said:
Kicks out the front center another 20mm or so, lowers the grip height, steepens STA, lowers BB. I'd run cranks no longer than 165.
Click to expand...

Sorry. No. I know what an angleset does. I've been using anglesets for years.
I should have been more specific. What I was asking was why do you want a 63deg HA E-Enduro bike?
E-sommets are slightly slacker (HA) than the geometry chart states (both my 2019 and 2018 E-sommet VR smalls are sub 65deg)

If you're using it as a motor assisted uplift DH bike then by all means go for it. But if you are using the bike as an allrounder too I'd actually be wary of the negative aspects slackening the HA out to DH head angles will bring to all round riding/handling.

BTW fitting a -2deg headset really doesn't do all those things you mentioned. Not noticably anyway.
Yes it will lengthen the front centre by about 20mm (this isn't necessarily always good thing)
As for the rest it will only lower the head tube (stack) by around 1mm meaning the BB will lower around a third of that (ie un noticable)
this may well be negated depending on which brand headset you fit. eg. Superstar components headset cups are around 1mm thicker at the lip than the standard vitus cups so would negate any headtube drop. (BBheight/STA would remain the same)
Even if it does lower the headtube 1mm you won't actually notice any difference in seat tube angle from that tiny of a reduction in stack.

I've no idea what you mean about lowering "grip height" but 20mm longer front centre generally means less weight on the front wheel (which equals less front tyre grip. not more).

Being in the US I'd assume this is all theory on your part. Or do you actaully have a vitus? or have ridden one?
 
Gary said:
this made me laugh.

CRC even sent a new one in the box each time they sent the bike back from warranty work. WTAF?
Click to expand...

Ohh I know why! .. someone at CRC must know you ;)

Sorry couldn't resit it...

On a more serious note and back on topic I'd definitely pick up a spare derailleur hanger as a spare is not provided.

Vitus Hanger 3 - eSommet 2018-19 | Chain Reaction Cycles]

Having ridden the E-Sommet VR for several months now and the bike rides awesome.. you don't need to look at numbers it's obvious when you swing a leg over. Some may like to tinker with angle sets as it may suit them though I would personally think these would be the real outliers wrt the E-Sommet.
There is so much marketing nowadays it's hard to separate the real from the sales pitch... Journos are not helping as it's partly their job to discuss & fuel constant iteration whether it's genuinely beneficial or not. I'm just waiting for the first Negative stem to show up and then talk about should I go -10mm or -40mm etc etc ;)

Problem with the E-Sommet VR is getting to demo one.

Remember the mainstream media in many fields are beholden somewhat to the companies/products they report on. Good thing here is Rob just rides and AFAICT gives his honest ride opinions... IMO most modern bikes are great from the main brands and only a few stinkers seem to get produced now. My main rule is to stay clear of new radical designs, especially linkage systems until the 2nd gen of that new system/design.
 
Loving this thread. I’ve just ordered mine. Looking at fitting Hope V4s as they were basically free to get the Wiggle Gold discount, and I’m planning to go Tubeless. Any other upgrades can wait until I’ve put a few miles in.
 
Riksbar said:
Loving this thread. I’ve just ordered mine. Looking at fitting Hope V4s as they were basically free to get the Wiggle Gold discount, and I’m planning to go Tubeless. Any other upgrades can wait until I’ve put a few miles in.
Click to expand...

The Stock Guide REs are excellent btw. I was looking to change mine based on experience with some Guide Ultimate's being a bit low power but after riding the REs they are great IMO. If I was going to replace them then I'd probably go with Hope also.

I'd get some decent pedals as those provided aren't really up to the task. I run either Nukeproof Horizon Pros which I really like or some Oneup Al which are a fair bit thinner and a good platform but are a fair more expensive than the Horizons.

I personally changed out the dropper lever.. yeah it works but I had a spare Wolftooth in a box and it's much better. I also changed the grips to RevGrips to try and help minimise arm pump (you can get them in the UK now from Cyclorise IIRC but they ain't cheap)

I also got a spare chain but if your snapping chains then your gears aren't set up right or it's user error in shifting. I've found little difference in shifting technique.. the feel is there even with the assist.

I fit a Tyreinvader in the rear but getting the tyre back on with it in is character building... It actually seats much easier with the Tyreinvader as the insert helps by pushing the tyre into the seat.
 
I have one too, what do you need to know. Read the decal on the top tube. Every time I get on mine I see that and smile. Often I will do just one more climb or just see where this takes me. It is awesome I just had mine round Aston Hill this morning and way more capable than I am.
 
Wellsywellsy said:
decal on the top tube. Every time I get on mine I see that and smile.
Click to expand...

My Dartmoor 4X has "Ride your way" printed in a similar position on the toptube.

I normally black out most of the graphics/decals on all my black bikes but these two stay as the irony of them always makes me laugh.
:LOL:
 
I'd get some decent pedals as those provided aren't really up to the task. I run either Nukeproof Horizon Pros which I really like or some Oneup Al which are a fair bit thinner and a good platform but are a fair more expensive than the Horizons.
Click to expand...

I’ll be fitting the Time Atacs, saddle and grips from my five onto it. I figured that for £50 difference the brakes were worth a switch as I like the feel of the Hopes. Has anybody made a cover to keep mud out of the gap in front of the shock?
 
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