E-Sommet bearing numbers and torque values (incl headset bearing info and rear thru axle spec)

Stuart569

Well-known member
Jun 24, 2019
128
111
NE Scotland
I too am struggling to find what the torque values are, did you manage to find out what each letter torque setting was? If you could share that would be great, thank you

The diagram clearly gives you all the info you need?

Screenshot_20200413_142715.jpg
 

Master Link

Member
Dec 7, 2018
160
63
Isle of Wight
I too am struggling to find what the torque values are, did you manage to find out what each letter torque setting was? If you could share that would be great, thank you

I have edited my post to include a picture showing revised torque values based on the diagram provided by Stuart569, earlier in this post.

Bearing and Torque Values - Revised.jpg
 
Last edited:

R120

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Apr 13, 2018
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Surrey
I want to swap out all my rear end hardware for black vs the stock silver, anyone replaced them on theirs?
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
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@R120 It'll be a simple swap mate. Just take your time, use decent tools and take care to lay the pieces out in a way you'll remember how they go back paying especial attention to how the main pivot assembly is configured.

Can you sticky this thread? I've just added headset bearing info to the OP
 

RocketMagnet

Well-known member
Dec 16, 2018
166
134
UK
Some confusion here as we have varying values sent by Vitus and the original EngDiag Torque values do not align with the "latest" schematic but they are reasonably close and +/- a few Nm at such low Torques doesn't matter. I did notice on the original drawing they did blank out specific tables of Torque values for some reason.

I think the Horst Link where the Seat Stay and Chain Stays connect should be 6Nm to 10Nm not 19Nm however. I also think where the seat stays connect to the rocker they should be 10Nm.
The Original Drawing definitely lists ASEE-SNT @10Nm which is all the Seat Stay and Chainstay Horst Bolts.

Ultimately this needs a drawing like I've got for other bikes, each bolt with an arrow pointing to it with a Torque value.. just like this drawing for my SCruz:

1587464971558.png
 

Gary

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I think the Horst Link where the Seat Stay and Chain Stays connect should be 6Nm to 10Nm not 19Nm however
Yeah, in the PDF diagram three posts above this one it's spec'd at 6Nm. You get used to how tight pivot hardware needs to be after a whilehaving done loads n loads 6-10Nm would seem way closer to what you'd expect from smaller horst link fastening hardware and bearings.19Nm there would indeed be very unusual. similar horst link hardware on varios frame is generally in the 7-9Nm range
I updated the original post to include that PDF.

yeah, There's far too much conflicting info out there. but at least we're not paying SantaCruz prices so it levels out somewhat, eh? ;)

Having said that, YT are pretty good at putting torque values on the actual frames/bolts
 

tonyker

Member
Jan 28, 2019
48
28
Surrey
Hi all, getting round to changing my main pivot, have taken the first screw out but the the next part is solid and can not remove, the inner hex is stripped, any suggestions. have added a pic showing which part. also what part number is this as need a new one
Untitled.jpg
 

Gary

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That's the expander spacer (it has no hex). it simply stops the axle coming loose when the M6 bolt is tightened down on it.
I'd assumed he meant the hex interface on the actual axle (marked SEE - MAX in the diagram) underneath the expander bung was rounded.
Strange if it is. (and it wasn't you who damaged it)
 

Stuart569

Well-known member
Jun 24, 2019
128
111
NE Scotland
That's the expander spacer (it has no hex). it simply stops the axle coming loose when the M6 bolt is tightened down on it.
I'd assumed he meant the hex interface on the actual axle (marked SEE - MAX in the diagram) underneath the expander bung was rounded.
Strange if it is. (and it wasn't you who damaged it)
Aye it sounds like you know exactly what he is on aboot and I dinnae!?
 

gtaadicto

Member
Jan 26, 2019
101
78
Leon,Spain
I checked the bearings for the first time on my E-Sommet VR, bought in March 2019. At least 7 bearings are totally dead (2x6900, 2x6901, 3x6802). The 6902 bearings seem fine. Now I know why my rear suspension's small bump sensitivity sucked...
Ordered new Enduro ABEC-3 bearings.
 

Tonytank

Member
Jun 5, 2019
99
77
London
Maybe one for the very experienced guys. So had all bearings changed in february, bike was returned to crc for motor issue in march. Shop who fitted new bearings used enduro max bearings,
Ive done 1300 miles on them bearings since. Mostly thru summer and then the last 4months in shite conditions. Stripped the bike down and found alot of them dry/lacking grease.
Regreased most of them and running ok. Main pivots are fooked.
But cleaned and regreased them to get me another few weeks.
Bought some max enduro bearings again but removed the seals before fitting and was disappointed with how liitle grease was in there.
So i have bought some lanoguard marine grease and packed the shizz out of them with that.
Am i wasting my time? Or is it a case of replacing bearings every year?
Btw i wash the bike with bucket of water and brushes and sponge and a rinse with low pressure garden hose, after every ride when its wet and mucky.
Any thoughts or ideas welcome
 

RocketMagnet

Well-known member
Dec 16, 2018
166
134
UK
Some bearings are designed around a specific quantity of grease and overfilling can in fact kill them.
However as these bearing don't rapidly rotate and are load bearing you can pack them out with a marine style grease which can help, its a good idea not to mix greases so best to thoroughly clean them out with a solvent first if you don't know what's in them.

MAX just means the whole race is full with ball bearings with no gaps (Maximum Balls).. it doesn't mean max performance/endurance etc.
Yes MAX are the correct type for load bearing bearings.

Main way to kill bearings prematurely is to damage them when you put them in so why you should press them in and not use a hammer etc. Another classic reason is to over torque the pivot pins onto the faces which can kill them really quickly as it crushes and deforms the race as the tolerance's are so tight.... though going too low can also damage them early with lateral movement... so use a Torque Wrench.

Other than the obvious poor conditions and water ingress you should keep a closer eye on them and give them a periodic clean, pull the pivots and a full 360+++++ spin with your fingers (as they just rock in normal operation) to work the grease around and change which balls are sitting where in the race.

I've had bikes where bearing last years and others just a few months... it's just life. A big tell tale sign IME is a slight binding/creaking/cracking sound as the pivot pin rotates inside the bearing because the bearing isn't rotating properly so the pivot rotates inside it.
Generally if I get a failed/failing bearing I replace it.. repacking with grease or worse greasing up the pivot pin is simply hiding the fault as you can't undo the damage.
 

Gary

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Am i wasting my time?
No
low pressure garden hose
This may still be your issue.
How long do you spend cleaning the bike? and do you use hot water at all?
Rinsing with a low pressure cold water garden hose can still mean dumping a lot of water onto the bike.
Try using a HOT water hose with a variable head. It's massively more effective at removing debris so you can use it far more sparingly than a cold water hose.
Also make sure you're hand washing the bike with HOT soapy water
First of all wet the bike with the hot hose removing any large clumps of mud as you go. I find a fine jet (fairly high pressure) will remove most and wet the whole bike ready for hand washing in roughly 20 seconds. Just be careful not to point directly at any hearings or the motor.
Next wash the whole bike with a big soft brush and HOT lathered soapy water. - this shoyuld take no longer than 5 minutes including scrubbing the rims/tyres and drivetrain.
The bike should look clean all over before rinsing with clean HOT water. and seeing as you're only rinsing off dirty soapy water this is only 10-15seconds using the hose.
Next. Let the bike drip dry for a min or two and dry the frame/wheels, contact points and chain/drivetrain with a dry clean(ish) rag.
Next lube your chain making sure to remove any excess lube with an old rag
The whole process from manky to clean and lubed should be well less than 10 minutes. I see far too many folk spend way too long washing their bikes and this is the biggest cause IMO of bearings becoming dry

Don't wet wash it at all after dryer rides, but still check it over and wipe it down, especially the drivetrain
 

Tonytank

Member
Jun 5, 2019
99
77
London
Thanks rocketmagnet and gary for replies.
Yes i use torque wrench and bearing press, i use hot water in bucket and sponge and brushes but i rinse with cold water and wipe with microfibre cloth. Wash time is around 10mins depending on how mucky then 5min doing drive train.
The rinsing is with a finer spray and it literally a few seconds to get soap off.
Yes if its dry rides i only do drive train.
As for these new bearings i wouldnt say they are packed with balls there is a gap not quite big enough for a ball at one point.
I guess its going to be probably twice a year inspection and grease.
 

R120

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Apr 13, 2018
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Surrey
So planning on doing full bearing and hardware change in the spring, but want to get ahead of myself and order all the bits now - what are peoples view on the best bearings to get? Can see various options out there including the OEM kit via CRC, but looking to explore what the best option is.
 

Master Link

Member
Dec 7, 2018
160
63
Isle of Wight
You will probably get several recommendations here, I have used Enduro and the CRC bearings and find the CRC last the same as the Enduro and are less expensive.
 

thebarber

E*POWAH Elite
May 28, 2018
986
596
Norfeast
I'm looking at replacing frame bearings (just did main pivots last year) and been on kinetics site.
Looked at the first bearings 6900 and there's different ones, should I just stick with the LLU MAX thruout?
I Also priced thru chain reaction the die presses needed to do the frame and it came to £80+ that's without the bar kit at £59...
Any links to a reasonable kit that covers all the frame and wheels ?
 

Gary

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Yeah. That kit will install all your bearings (including hub and BB bearings) but not remove them.
 
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Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
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Mar 29, 2018
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I'm looking at replacing frame bearings (just did main pivots last year) and been on kinetics site.
Looked at the first bearings 6900 and there's different ones, should I just stick with the LLU MAX thruout?
I Also priced thru chain reaction the die presses needed to do the frame and it came to £80+ that's without the bar kit at £59...
Any links to a reasonable kit that covers all the frame and wheels ?
TBF if they're good quality £80 is actually reasonable for all the removal presses needed. Got a link to what you're thinking of buying?
Kinetics own kit is really nice to use and great quality and should last you a lifetime (for multiple bikes) but pricy.
 

thebarber

E*POWAH Elite
May 28, 2018
986
596
Norfeast
I'm bodging incase I get oot tommo.
Pencil wrapped in masking tape on pencil in drill and plenty weasel piss to flush out, then repac until I get the new bearings.
The mains were replaced in April I think with enduro max.
 
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thebarber

E*POWAH Elite
May 28, 2018
986
596
Norfeast
Fuk me!
£118 for frame bearings....
Are the enduro max bo worth it?
Main swing arm bearings have only lasted since April I think..

Screenshot_20210228-210920_Chrome.jpg
 

thebarber

E*POWAH Elite
May 28, 2018
986
596
Norfeast
Cool the jets.
Just found this on kinetics site.....
Says 16 bearings tho.
Any ideas where the extra 2 come from?
 

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