Levo Gen 3 Dropper post sticks

[Bustershaw]

My dropper post sticks, but not in the way I've heard of. It only sticks when it sits for a while. If I go and hit the lever it does nothing, but after I give it a nudge it pops up like it should, over and over again until it sits for a few minutes or more. I have unscrewed the cap, got the bushing up and cleaned and greased it up with slickoleum.
I tried once to get it out of the frame, but I could not get the cable housing to budge. I took the lever off the handlebars and tried to push it into the frame. Do I have to take the battery out and get it out of the plastic guide under the bottle cage bolts?

 

[James_C]

You havent stated which bike you have. Assuming levo, there are 3 cable clips under the shock, take the shock off and loosen these. push the cable from the lever end and pull the cable from around the shock area. You then have to edge the post up an inch or so at a time, repeating this process to provide the cable slack.

The post likely needs a service. Cleaning and regreasing etc inside. Pretty easy. You might need a new cartridge or repressurise the existing one if you can.

 

[Bustershaw]

You havent stated which bike you have. Assuming levo, there are 3 cable clips under the shock, take the shock off and loosen these. push the cable from the lever end and pull the cable from around the shock area. You then have to edge the post up an inch or so at a time, repeating this process to provide the cable slack.

The post likely needs a service. Cleaning and regreasing etc inside. Pretty easy. You might need a new cartridge or repressurise the existing one if you can.

It is a Levo gen3, but I"m confused. I'm just about positive that the dropper post cable runs under the bottle cage. I got pretty familiar with it when I mistakenly removed both bolts for the bottle cage and found out that the plastic guide that it sits in is what the bottle cage bolts to. Oops...

 

[Stihldog]

It is a Levo gen3, but I"m confused. I'm just about positive that the dropper post cable runs under the bottle cage. I got pretty familiar with it when I mistakenly removed both bolts for the bottle cage and found out that the plastic guide that it sits in is what the bottle cage bolts to. Oops...

Besides any cable binding, lack of grease. worn guides (plastic or brass), leaking cartridge or a slightly bent post may cause some dropper delay.

I’d try the cable first and insure free operation.

 

[James_C]

It is a Levo gen3, but I"m confused. I'm just about positive that the dropper post cable runs under the bottle cage. I got pretty familiar with it when I mistakenly removed both bolts for the bottle cage and found out that the plastic guide that it sits in is what the bottle cage bolts to. Oops...

not sure about gen3 mine is gen2 and its under the shock

 

[Bustershaw]

Besides any cable binding, lack of grease. worn guides (plastic or brass), leaking cartridge or a slightly bent post may cause some dropper delay.

I’d try the cable first and insure free operation.

That was my first thought also, but how to get the cable free?

 

[Mikerb]

I would first try reducing the torque on the seat post clamp. If that makes no difference you can reduce that further to the point you can at least rotate the post a little and perhaps lift or push it down a little. i am not suggesting the clamp has magically changed torque but if there is additional friction within the post ( ie it needs a service) a slightly lighter torque may counteract that...at least unless the friction within the post gets worse.

 

[Stihldog]

That was my first thought also, but how to get the cable free?

I wonder if you’ve developed a pinch point in the motor compartment. Because of the acute curve in that cable, over time it may have failed.
Also removing and replacing the complete dropper may have caused an issue.
Is the controller operating and wired properly?

I usually add a very thin layer of light grease to the cable wire before each install.

I know the AXS Reverb Dropper may not be in your future plan …but that instantly solved my dropper issues.

Perhaps r&r the dropper again???

 

[Mikerb]

I wonder if you’ve developed a pinch point in the motor compartment. Because of the acute curve in that cable, over time it may have failed.
Also removing and replacing the complete dropper may have caused an issue.
Is the controller operating and wired properly?

I usually add a very thin layer of light grease to the cable wire before each install.

I know the AXS Reverb Dropper may not be in your future plan …but that instantly solved my dropper issues.

Perhaps r&r the dropper again???

I ddid not read anywhere that the guy had previously replaced the dropper!! He had however released the plastic guide in the down tube when he removed both water bottle bolts. If that was a recent event it could be worth checking he has not damaged that plastic guide or misdireted it when he replaced the bottle cage bolts. Any change in the orientation of the plastic guide could well change the cable tension. A slight increase or decrease in cable tension at the lever may be worth a try.
Since the post works OK in the release to slam direction but then fails to release to raise it does not sound like an overall problem with the dropper cannister, but could still be sticking bushings.

 

[Bustershaw]

I ddid not read anywhere that the guy had previously replaced the dropper!! He had however released the plastic guide in the down tube when he removed both water bottle bolts. If that was a recent event it could be worth checking he has not damaged that plastic guide or misdireted it when he replaced the bottle cage bolts. Any change in the orientation of the plastic guide could well change the cable tension. A slight increase or decrease in cable tension at the lever may be worth a try.
Since the post works OK in the release to slam direction but then fails to release to raise it does not sound like an overall problem with the dropper cannister, but could still be sticking bushings.

Yes, I have never had the dropper post out. I did have to fight with my bottle cage bolts recently, but I had tried to get the cable to move before that with no luck. The dropper canister is working perfectly as far as I can tell. It snaps up quickly when it's not stuck.

 

[Bustershaw]

I would first try reducing the torque on the seat post clamp. If that makes no difference you can reduce that further to the point you can at least rotate the post a little and perhaps lift or push it down a little. i am not suggesting the clamp has magically changed torque but if there is additional friction within the post ( ie it needs a service) a slightly lighter torque may counteract that...at least unless the friction within the post gets worse.

I did try that to the point my seat would move around, but no change.

 

[Stihldog]

The bottle holder bolts, attached to the cable guide, is interesting? Alignment or torque may be affecting some cables.

I have seen that twice …a pinched derailer cable and a pinched rear brake line in a bulkhead.

 

[Bustershaw]

The bottle holder bolts, attached to the cable guide, is interesting? Alignment or torque may be affecting some cables.

I have seen that twice …a pinched derailer cable and a pinched rear brake line in a bulkhead.

Interesting is one word for it! Imagine my surprise when I tried to change my water bottle cage and discovered the threads were missing when I went to put it back on.

 

[Bustershaw]

Has anyone here just changed the inside cable? I was thinking that might be easier than trying to push the cable housing in. How does one go about crimping and end on that? Excuse my ignorance

 

[The Hodge]

Buy some of this to keep your post & suspension beautifully smooth ..spray then work the post up & down a few times ..then wipe off the excess ..
Ive never had a stiction problem in four years ..its magic stuff

 

[Mikerb]

Has anyone here just changed the inside cable? I was thinking that might be easier than trying to push the cable housing in. How does one go about crimping and end on that? Excuse my ignorance

The cable should just feed through the cable outer from the dropper towards the lever. You still have to get the dropper out of the seat tube first however because you have to disconnect the bullet end from the lever at the base of the dropper and fit the new cable bullet end. I just had a new dropper installed together with a new cable ( on a Whyte/Bosch bike). I already had the replacement dropper and cable both of which I bought for a good reduced price some months ago. My existing droppe had problems...not the same as yours.....on mine it took a couple of seconds for the seat to lock in place when released. Rather than have the hassle I took it to a bike shop to do, giving them my replacement dropper and cable. They took a day and charged about £35. Not worth the bother doing it myself.

 

[Bndit]

Has anyone here just changed the inside cable? I was thinking that might be easier than trying to push the cable housing in. How does one go about crimping and end on that? Excuse my ignorance

If your outer cable doen’t move, there`s some issues on routing. I have gen3 Levo, i had 25cm extra cable some where inside frame . I cut the extra away, it helped little on dropper action. But now my outer cable blowed up and i had it replaced by LBS and I installed oneup dropper (droppers where inner cable knob is on trigger end of the cable should be phrobited by law) . Anyway, the outer cable should move around, otherwise it’s impossible ro adjust anything or change the inner cable. Levo has really thin outer cable, probably because of routing around motor.

 

[DylanJM]

(droppers where inner cable knob is on trigger end of the cable should be phrobited by law) .

This, I fucked up the dropper cable on my gen 3 and trying to get things sorted using the stock dropper lever was a nightmare. Ended up a buying a PNW dropper lever that clamps the cable at the lever with a bolt rather than than relying on the soldered on cable end. 1000x times easier to get correct cable length with that.

 

[DMC707]

Post on My gen 3 Levo (comp alloy version) is a steaming pile of junk (X- Fusion Manic -- who names these things? )

so sticky i thought it was bent ---- i think the best fix is to pull and replace with a better dropper as soon as possible if that is the version you have.

I am partial to Fox stuff, but have heard good things about PNW -- or naturally the RockShox AXS post if you have a bit more green candy to throw at it

 

[irie]

I usually add a very thin layer of light grease to the cable wire before each install.

Just installed Oneup V3 droppers on our Rails and a light smear of grease on dropper housings helps them slide around the corner up seat tubes.

 

[Mikerb]

There are 2 systemic problems with virtually all dropper posts. One is lack of maintenance and the other is the push to hide all cables inside the frame usually involving a pretty torturous route .......that in turn often makes removal of the dropper for maintenance more difficult. A wireless dropper is one solution but at a price.
The less expensive droppers all use a sealed cannister and often the only answer to a problem with them is a replacement cannister.
My wife's Cube hardtail did not come with a dropper post from new so I bought a really cheap external cable dropper and a few cable clips. It has been totally reliable now for 4 years and easy to service and adjust....and both cheap and quick to replace if needed.
Internal cabling for a dropper is a more historic equivalent of putting brake cables through the headset really.....both make maintenance more difficult for no performance gain other than aesthetics!

 

[Stihldog]

Just installed Oneup V3 droppers on our Rails and a light smear of grease on dropper housings helps them slide around the corner up seat tubes.

I think most dropper cables come slightly greased or oiled when new, but that doesn’t seem like enough. I use a light grease (Slick Honey or SRAM Butter).

I also apply some light grease in the dropper post collars (4-6 months). The Reverb AXS dropper had a price to pay but I really like the ease of servicing. (Did I mention that it goes up an down )

I measured the insertion depth with a broom stick and decided a 170mm AXS dropper would just fit …that’s on a medium Rail.

I might go your route (OneUp V3) on the Fuel EXE when that Bontrager dropper fails …or maybe …just maybe.… I might shove another wireless AXS dropper in there. I might have to wait until my birthday for that.

 

[YokoOno]

Post on My gen 3 Levo (comp alloy version) is a steaming pile of junk (X- Fusion Manic -- who names these things? )

so sticky i thought it was bent ---- i think the best fix is to pull and replace with a better dropper as soon as possible if that is the version you have.

I am partial to Fox stuff, but have heard good things about PNW -- or naturally the RockShox AXS post if you have a bit more green candy to throw at it

PNW make a nice cartridge style post. No need to top off the air and PNW is responsive to potential warranty issues.

I installed a Wolftooth Resolve on my Levo a few months ago and am thrilled with it. The low stack height allowed me to get 30mm more drop than the stock 150. It's impressively machined and has a very solid feel. The automatic self-bleeding feature prevents sag. But it is costly.

 

[irie]

I think most dropper cables come slightly greased or oiled when new, but that doesn’t seem like enough. I use a light grease (Slick Honey or SRAM Butter).

I measured the insertion depth with a broom stick and decided a 170mm AXS dropper would just fit …that’s on a medium Rail.

Put a Oneup V3 180mm dropper in wife's 2022 Rail Medium (alloy), slammed to give her 33 inches from pedal top to saddle top. One thing to note is that to get the post to come up super quick the lever has to be pushed all the way ( more progressive than V2). So moved the lever out about 1/4" to make it easier to push right in to get a fast erection. So to speak.

 

[Bustershaw]

Just to close out this story, I removed the X-Fusion Maniac and closely followed the service procedure and cleaned and lubed everything. It still hung up, almost like it was bent. What a POS.
Luckily I found a Bike Yoke Revive Max 3.0 on Marketplace for $100. Wow, what a difference! It just about launches me off the bike now.

 

[YokoOno]

Just to close out this story, I removed the X-Fusion Maniac and closely followed the service procedure and cleaned and lubed everything. It still hung up, almost like it was bent. What a POS.
Luckily I found a Bike Yoke Revive Max 3.0 on Marketplace for $100. Wow, what a difference! It just about launches me off the bike now.

Bike Yoke is a good one. Congrats.

 

[DMC707]

Just to close out this story, I removed the X-Fusion Maniac and closely followed the service procedure and cleaned and lubed everything. It still hung up, almost like it was bent. What a POS.
Luckily I found a Bike Yoke Revive Max 3.0 on Marketplace for $100. Wow, what a difference! It just about launches me off the bike now.

Awesome ! -- Im sad to say - the X Fusion is still on my E Bike --- because i have a lot of other expensive hobbies (meaning -too much other crap competing for limited dollars) and usually ride cross countryish trails so have it fully extended most of the time -- but when i get to the truck - it really requires a conscientious bounce to get the thing to go down

My Fox preference comes from 2 analog bikes i still have -- but sadly i dont really ride them anymore --- and their the wrong size to retrofit to the e-bike

never actually heard of a Bike yoke but will look into it !

 

[Bustershaw]

Awesome ! -- Im sad to say - the X Fusion is still on my E Bike --- because i have a lot of other expensive hobbies (meaning -too much other crap competing for limited dollars) and usually ride cross countryish trails so have it fully extended most of the time -- but when i get to the truck - it really requires a conscientious bounce to get the thing to go down My Fox preference comes from 2 analog bikes i still have -- but sadly i dont really ride them anymore --- and their the wrong size to retrofit to the e-bike never actually heard of a Bike yoke but will look into it !

Awesome ! -- Im sad to say - the X Fusion is still on my E Bike --- because i have a lot of other expensive hobbies (meaning -too much other crap competing for limited dollars) and usually ride cross countryish trails so have it fully extended most of the time -- but when i get to the truck - it really requires a conscientious bounce to get the thing to go down

My Fox preference comes from 2 analog bikes i still have -- but sadly i dont really ride them anymore --- and their the wrong size to retrofit to the e-bike

never actually heard of a Bike yoke but will look into it !

I've heard that it's better then the Fox. It has a lever to remove any air in the system easily. On other posts it would require a teardown. It works quite well!