Custom Build: Orbea Wild 2026 (Bosch Race Gen 5) - €2,000 Component Budget. Thoughts?

[lucassc]

Hi everyone,

I am building an Orbea Wild 2026 from the frame up, it comes included with a fox float x kashima. The bike has the new Bosch Performance Line CX Race (Gen 5) motor. I am 1.84m tall and I am trying to finish the full build with a 2000 Euro budget for all components.

I have been hunting for deals and second-hand parts. Here is the current breakdown of the build and the prices I am looking at:

Suspension and Brakes

• Fork: Fox 38 Factory Kashima FIT4 170mm (575 Euro)
• Brakes: Formula Cura 4 Gold (200 Euro)
• Rotors: Galfer Fixed 203mm (60 Euro pair)

Drivetrain and Motor Parts

• Rear Derailleur: SRAM GX Eagle Transmission T-Type (Included in kit)
• Cassette: SRAM GX XS-1275 T-Type (Included in kit)
• Chain: SRAM GX Flattop (Included in kit)
• Shifter: SRAM AXS Pod (Full group found for 490 Euro)
• Cranks: Race Face Aeffect R 160mm (90 Euro)
• Chainring: SRAM T-Type Steel 34T Bosch 55mm CL (22 Euro)

Wheels and Tires

• Wheels: Race Face AR30 with Trace hubs (250 Euro)
• Front Tire: Maxxis Assegai 29x2.50 WT 3C MaxxGrip DD (55 Euro)
• Rear Tire: Maxxis Minion DHR II 29x2.40 WT 3C MaxxTerra DD (55 Euro)
• XD Driver: For Race Face hubs (70 Euro)

Cockpit and Finishing Kit

• Handlebar: Race Face Chester 35 (800mm width, 35mm rise) (35 Euro)
• Stem: OC Mountain Control (40 Euro)
• Dropper Post: OneUp Components V2 180mm (130 Euro)
• Remote: OnOff Aluminum Remote (20 Euro)
• Saddle: WTB Volt Steel (35 Euro)
• Grips: Burgtec Bartender Pro (22 Euro)
• Cables and Housing: Jagwire Lex-SL (15 Euro)

Total estimated cost: 2164 Euro (Still trying to negotiate some parts to hit the 2k mark).

Questions for the community:

1. Drivetrain: Is the 34T chainring too much for the Bosch Race motor or should I stick to 32T? I am 1.84m tall and fairly strong.
2. Frame fit: I am going for a 180mm dropper. Does anyone know if there is enough insertion depth in the Large frame for a OneUp V2 180mm to sit almost flush?
3. Handlebar: With the Wild 2026 integrated routing through the headset, is there any trick for choosing the stem to keep the cockpit clean?

Any advice on where I could save some money or improve the reliability and performance would be great. Tell me what components would you pick instead and what should i change, im relatively new to this world so i dont have that much knowledge so all advice is wellcome.

Thanks!

 

[bww5325]

I think I can help you out

 

[Powerslider]

I’d strongly lean toward a cable-less dropper on a bike with headset routing

 

[MeatBike]

Handlebar: With the Wild 2026 integrated routing through the headset, is there any trick for choosing the stem to keep the cockpit clean?

If you want to change the stem then you'll need a part called Orbea HS02-06 Headset Cable Collector SIC No Spinblock - Standard Stem. I have that on my Rise, although I'm still using the stock OC stem at the moment.

Does the Wild have any cables routed through the bars, or is the motor controller wireless? If it's cabled then that's a whole different conversation.

One other point regarding your build. I'd perhaps look into a different wheelset, something like DT Swiss 1900 or 1700. If you Google "Race Face Trace Hubs" you'll see that they have quite a high failure rate.

 

[Powerslider]

If you want to change the stem then you'll need a part called Orbea HS02-06 Headset Cable Collector SIC No Spinblock - Standard Stem. I have that on my Rise, although I'm still using the stock OC stem at the moment.

Does the Wild have any cables routed through the bars, or is the motor controller wireless? If it's cabled then that's a whole different conversation.

One other point regarding your build. I'd perhaps look into a different wheelset, something like DT Swiss 1900 or 1700. If you Google "Race Face Trace Hubs" you'll see that they have quite a high failure rate.

I believe the current Wild has a wireless motor controller.

 

[MeatBike]

I believe the current Wild has a wireless motor controller.

Cool, that removes one complication then.

 

[AlfonsoTe]

Preguntas para la comunidad:

1. Ajuste del cuadro: Voy a usar una tija telescópica de 180 mm. ¿Alguien sabe si el cuadro grande tiene suficiente profundidad de inserción para que una OneUp V2 de 180 mm quede casi a ras.

El OneUp V2 210 se adapta perfectamente a la talla L del Wild e incluso a la talla M; la versión 180 no encaja "casi al ras".

 

[Suns_PSD]

I’d strongly lean toward a cable-less dropper on a bike with headset routing

Orbea offers these electronic droppers that plug directly in to the Shimano motors. I sure wish this would work with the Bosch motor. They are sleeker than the aftermarket electronic droppers for several reasons. Lighter, no battery, better drop, etc.

https://www.orbea.com/us-en/gear/oc-componentes/cat/oc-electronic-dropper-post-mc1

Of course, in the real world, maybe they are disasters. But the idea is the future.

 

[Powerslider]

Cool, that removes one complication then.

Yup. I enjoyed my recent Wild demo ride so much I got to thinking if I'd put up with the headset routing. The Bosch being locked to Class 1 is a dealbreaker, but if they ever removed that restriction, my plan would be to use a cable-less dropper so the rear brake hose would be the only thing going through the headset.

 

[Suns_PSD]

A couple of points I'd make:

1) No bike is perfect.
2) HCR is like, whatever in the end. It's just one thing. Especially if you only have a rear brake cable entering, I'd actually call it an advantage ultimately if I only had 1 cable as it's lighter and cleaner looking without all of the unused ports on the frame. I'll have 3 cables to deal with but am a competent mechanic.
3) Word is that Gen5 Bosch motors just do not break and are running very near a 0% failure rate. Other brands are much higher.
4) The Gen5s can be turned up remotely to 2x speed for $40 online. That's 40mph.
5) If you did have a failure I think it's pretty unlikely that the repairing dealer would even know. If it started making a weird noise, have the guy turn it back before taking it in. That's only a 2 year anyways, after that it's for you to pay for.
6) I crunched and crunched the bikes for my needs, lots of good bikes out there honestly but for my needs they nearly all have shortcomings. The fact that I was able to get a CXR Bosch CF Wild shipped to my door for about $7K (it's on order and the wait sucks), really makes it a very compelling package.
7) If I had wanted an 800watt battery I would have paid 5 figures for the Yeti or bought the much less expensive Norco VLT and lost the CXR. Outside chance I would have bought the Regulator. The thing is that the CXR is a very efficient motor. At my weight and trails the 600w battery will be more than sufficient.

 

[Powerslider]

A couple of points I'd make:

1) No bike is perfect.
2) HCR is like, whatever in the end. It's just one thing. Especially if you only have a rear brake cable entering, I'd actually call it an advantage ultimately if I only had 1 cable as it's lighter and cleaner looking without all of the unused ports on the frame. I'll have 3 cables to deal with but am a competent mechanic.
3) Word is that Gen5 Bosch motors just do not break and are running very near a 0% failure rate. Other brands are much higher.
4) The Gen5s can be turned up remotely to 2x speed for $40 online. That's 40mph.
5) If you did have a failure I think it's pretty unlikely that the repairing dealer would even know. If it started making a weird noise, have the guy turn it back before taking it in. That's only a 2 year anyways, after that it's for you to pay for.
6) I crunched and crunched the bikes for my needs, lots of good bikes out there honestly but for my needs they nearly all have shortcomings. The fact that I was able to get a CXR Bosch CF Wild shipped to my door for about $7K (it's on order and the wait sucks), really makes it a very compelling package.
7) If I had wanted an 800watt battery I would have paid 5 figures for the Yeti or bought the much less expensive Norco VLT and lost the CXR. Outside chance I would have bought the Regulator. The thing is that the CXR is a very efficient motor. At my weight and trails the 600w battery will be more than sufficient.

First, I'd like to not own an eMTB more than 2 years.

Hacking a brand new bike is a gamble I don't feel comfortable enough doing to displace my Levo 4. Perhaps my bank account is happier this way anyway. lol

I felt the same way with my BMW where I paid for the factory "M Performance Power Kit" engine tune until i exceeded my warranty; then layered a full-bore custom engine tune after.

 

[Suns_PSD]

E-bike depreciation is on par with Tesla depreciation, meaning you'll lose your *ss. Motor repairs don't even cost much anyways if it does break. I'll run the Wild for 3-4 years.

I hear ya, I modify everything and knock on wood, it's never burned me.

My E85 tuned F150 with supporting mods is sitting near 600 rwhp at the moment, about 45% more than stock. YOLO.

 

[Powerslider]

E-bike depreciation is on par with Tesla depreciation, meaning you'll lose your *ss.

I'm not looking at my eMTB as an investment, but perhaps Trent Reznor said it best- Nothing quite like the feel of something new. Maybe I'm all messed up.

 

[KKe]

1. Drivetrain: Is the 34T chainring too much for the Bosch Race motor or should I stick to 32T? I am 1.84m tall and fairly strong.
2. Frame fit: I am going for a 180mm dropper. Does anyone know if there is enough insertion depth in the Large frame for a OneUp V2 180mm to sit almost flush?

1. 34T is on stock, it is pretty much standard choice now days. So not too much.
2. You are 184cm so you are fine. I have 180mm V3 on M frame. It can be inserted flush. But I'm much shorter than you and i need to raise it from flush.

I would choose Shimano OT-SP41 cable housing

 

[Singletrackmind]

1. 34T is on stock, it is pretty much standard choice now days. So not too much.
2. You are 184cm so you are fine. I have 180mm V3 on M frame. It can be inserted flush. But I'm much shorter than you and i need to raise it from flush.

I would choose Shimano OT-SP41 cable housing

I'm running a 175mm SRAM AXS B1 Dropper on a large frame and it can be inserted to flush.

 

[Singletrackmind]

Hi everyone,

I am building an Orbea Wild 2026 from the frame up, it comes included with a fox float x kashima. The bike has the new Bosch Performance Line CX Race (Gen 5) motor. I am 1.84m tall and I am trying to finish the full build with a 2000 Euro budget for all components.

I have been hunting for deals and second-hand parts. Here is the current breakdown of the build and the prices I am looking at:

Suspension and Brakes

• Fork: Fox 38 Factory Kashima FIT4 170mm (575 Euro)
• Brakes: Formula Cura 4 Gold (200 Euro)
• Rotors: Galfer Fixed 203mm (60 Euro pair)

Drivetrain and Motor Parts

• Rear Derailleur: SRAM GX Eagle Transmission T-Type (Included in kit)
• Cassette: SRAM GX XS-1275 T-Type (Included in kit)
• Chain: SRAM GX Flattop (Included in kit)
• Shifter: SRAM AXS Pod (Full group found for 490 Euro)
• Cranks: Race Face Aeffect R 160mm (90 Euro)
• Chainring: SRAM T-Type Steel 34T Bosch 55mm CL (22 Euro)

Wheels and Tires

• Wheels: Race Face AR30 with Trace hubs (250 Euro)
• Front Tire: Maxxis Assegai 29x2.50 WT 3C MaxxGrip DD (55 Euro)
• Rear Tire: Maxxis Minion DHR II 29x2.40 WT 3C MaxxTerra DD (55 Euro)
• XD Driver: For Race Face hubs (70 Euro)

Cockpit and Finishing Kit

• Handlebar: Race Face Chester 35 (800mm width, 35mm rise) (35 Euro)
• Stem: OC Mountain Control (40 Euro)
• Dropper Post: OneUp Components V2 180mm (130 Euro)
• Remote: OnOff Aluminum Remote (20 Euro)
• Saddle: WTB Volt Steel (35 Euro)
• Grips: Burgtec Bartender Pro (22 Euro)
• Cables and Housing: Jagwire Lex-SL (15 Euro)

Total estimated cost: 2164 Euro (Still trying to negotiate some parts to hit the 2k mark).

Questions for the community:

1. Drivetrain: Is the 34T chainring too much for the Bosch Race motor or should I stick to 32T? I am 1.84m tall and fairly strong.
2. Frame fit: I am going for a 180mm dropper. Does anyone know if there is enough insertion depth in the Large frame for a OneUp V2 180mm to sit almost flush?
3. Handlebar: With the Wild 2026 integrated routing through the headset, is there any trick for choosing the stem to keep the cockpit clean?

Any advice on where I could save some money or improve the reliability and performance would be great. Tell me what components would you pick instead and what should i change, im relatively new to this world so i dont have that much knowledge so all advice is wellcome.

Thanks!

I highly recommend the Rockshox Zeb Ultimate on the 2026 Wild over the Fox 38 and you may be able to save sone €. Just switched mine out I really like how well it tracks while climbing, rides higher in the travel and feels more plush than the Fox 38.