Creaking, have I missed anything?

[OffitThatM8]

Hey guys I've done a search hammered chatgpt and googled this and before I inspect one more thing wanted some input as I've never had this type of creak before in all my 20 years of riding mtb.

Things I've done to address the creak first and then I'll mention the symptoms

1. Retorqued all usual stuff, headset preload, stem bolts, handlebar bolts, calipers, motor mount bolts, seat post, linkage bolts, pedal threads, crank arms, etc pretty much everything
2. Regressed all of the above while I was at it, and axles
3. Sprayed silicone absolutely everywhere on moving parts
4. Retensioned spokes
5. And some more I think

I've been chasing a creak for the past 100km on my relatively new Whyte Kado RS which has in total 235km on it.
It happens when pedalling under load and only when under pedal load, it doesn't creak with every pedal rotation but will creak again if I apply more torque. Basically imagine the bottom of a climb you start peddling > creak > silent > get to the top > stop pedalling > creak > coast > start pedalling > creak. Its also very noticeable using extended boost, quarter crank > creak > stop pedalling > coast a meter > extended boost cuts out > creak.

Interestingly it also creaks when I stop pedalling or applying torque. Happens regardless of whether the motor is on or off, seated of standing, I've bounced on the seat stationary and nothing so definitely seems drive train related rather than linkage or motor related.

I think I've narrowed it down to it being the cassette usually at this point having to spend 20 to 40 quid on tools I'd just book it into the LBS but I've decided nah, I'll fix it myself. Whipping cassettes off and dealing with rear hubs has never been something I've spent a lot of time dealing with so any tips would be good.

Anyone else had anything similiar? What was the fix? Chatgpt says whip the cassette off and clean + regrease before refitting but I'd rather some human input here as the new chatgpt update can get pretty blasé with hallucinations

Any help appreciated TIA

 

[RustyMTB]

First rule of creaks is they often don't come from where you think they do. Second is to rule stuff out, which you've done, so not seat post or cranks etc. I spent days chasing one down & wrote a thread in here about it. I went to huge lengths, running the thing as a balance bike with the motor removed, swapping suspension, all sorts. In the end, it turned out to be a bearing in the freehub. I could have found that immediately had I thought to swap out the rear wheel.

Yours sounds like it's at the rear but I would doubt the cassette is the source if it's fitted correctly, they're solid & not a moving part if you see what I mean but I would look at the mech & freehub. A dry clutch can creak and so can the pivot in the mech body & remember that the mech will still move with chain growth when you're not pedalling.

If you can try a different wheel that will diagnose hub or cassette and running it chain off will tell you if the derailleur is at fault. I'd also consider the headset.

 

[VWsurfbum]

Could be free hub bearings, which would give you a creak under load.

 

[MeatBike]

Creaks are the worst! I have one at the moment but I'm pretty sure it's my headset. It's ICR though, so I'm loathed to take it apart.

As @RustyMTB says, sounds on bikes can be deceiving although in your case I reckon the hub and cassette is a good place to start going by what you've described. Cassette removal it's easy enough and definitely worth having the tools. For hubs, some are easier than others but there are plenty of YouTube guides for all the main brands. I had a similar issue on my Rise with the cheapo Shimano hubs, had to tighten the rear hub end caps.

Another culprit may be the UDH hanger (no grease between hanger and frame, or hanger and rear mech), and as an "out there" possibility a creaky fork CSU (see below video):


There's the possibility it's the shock bushings too.

Also, some linkage bolts may require threadlock rather than grease (check the bike manual, not sure about Whyte but I know Orbea are really good at specifying what bits to grease and what bits to use Locktite on).

Good luck!

 

[Paulquattro]

Have you checked your knees
Seriously thou good luck hunting creaks can be a bitch to find

 

[ozzybmx]

I am an anal silent bike rider, used to ride single speeds and it carried on from that tranquillity.

A creak gets hunted down like like a mosquito in my bedroom

Had a weird one that took me ages to find a while back and it only happened when pedalling.

UDH hanger pull that bad boy off, grease around the insert and contact faces.

 

[MichiganEMTB]

If you have a Zeb fork. The steering tubes are known to creak.

 

[nickf]

1. Retorqued all usual stuff, headset preload, stem bolts, handlebar bolts, calipers, motor mount bolts, seat post, linkage bolts, pedal threads, crank arms, etc pretty much everything

Anyone else had anything similiar? What was the fix?

I recently went through much the same process. At one point I was convinced it was the pivot bearing at the rear axle (Trek Rail). In the end it was a suspension rocker pivot bolt. Try slightly loosening all the bolts on your suspension pivots and going for a gentle ride on tarmac, doing all the things that can usually provoke your creak. If it's gone, then retighten one bolt at a time to find the culprit.

Good luck! We all feel for you!

 

[big_scot_nanny]

So many options, we all feel your pain! Only safe bet is to get a new bike

Great suggestions above, I'll add from my experience that hasn't been mentioned:
- the chainring lockring
- seatpost in the frame
- a spoke about to let go usually at either the hub or nipple (spokes are a wear item for me, but not usually until 3000kms or so)
- rear hub axle shearing
-motor mount spacers missed by Giant when motor was warranty replaced, that creaked for 2 yrs as dealer created the problem could not solve it. Local ebike specialist diagnosed it instantly and fixed.

But by far the most frequent -
- the freehub destroying itself in many and interesting ways (bearings, pawls, ratchet rings, hub shell, freehub body collapsing, etc etc)

Could be any of those, but I’m going to suggest suspension bolts / bearings. Maybe one is loose, maybe one is dry.

 

[Just gan]

Hey guys I've done a search hammered chatgpt and googled this and before I inspect one more thing wanted some input as I've never had this type of creak before in all my 20 years of riding mtb.

Things I've done to address the creak first and then I'll mention the symptoms

1. Retorqued all usual stuff, headset preload, stem bolts, handlebar bolts, calipers, motor mount bolts, seat post, linkage bolts, pedal threads, crank arms, etc pretty much everything
2. Regressed all of the above while I was at it, and axles
3. Sprayed silicone absolutely everywhere on moving parts
4. Retensioned spokes
5. And some more I think

I've been chasing a creak for the past 100km on my relatively new Whyte Kado RS which has in total 235km on it.
It happens when pedalling under load and only when under pedal load, it doesn't creak with every pedal rotation but will creak again if I apply more torque. Basically imagine the bottom of a climb you start peddling > creak > silent > get to the top > stop pedalling > creak > coast > start pedalling > creak. Its also very noticeable using extended boost, quarter crank > creak > stop pedalling > coast a meter > extended boost cuts out > creak.

Interestingly it also creaks when I stop pedalling or applying torque. Happens regardless of whether the motor is on or off, seated of standing, I've bounced on the seat stationary and nothing so definitely seems drive train related rather than linkage or motor related.

I think I've narrowed it down to it being the cassette usually at this point having to spend 20 to 40 quid on tools I'd just book it into the LBS but I've decided nah, I'll fix it myself. Whipping cassettes off and dealing with rear hubs has never been something I've spent a lot of time dealing with so any tips would be good.

Anyone else had anything similiar? What was the fix? Chatgpt says whip the cassette off and clean + regrease before refitting but I'd rather some human input here as the new chatgpt update can get pretty blasé with hallucinations

Any help appreciated TIA

Good luck. I knew a custom frame builder I had a creak so he made me cycle slowly and he crouched alongside. Found it no problem at all.

 

[ZR1]

I am terrible at finding creaks/noises. so far the culprits for me have been:

Play in lower headset bearing
loose saddle rails
shoe lace hitting itself on every crank rotation...

 

[RustyMTB]

Got everyone in except the guy with the problem.

 

[OffitThatM8]

Got everyone in except the guy with the problem.

Yeah apologies came down with some gastrobug not long after posting, Friday 1am woke up and had the worst night, spent all day Friday migrating to and from the bathroom and the bed

So had another look this afternoon.
Whipped the rear wheel off and went to get at the cassette. I don't have one of the sram eagle lockring tools unfortunately but I've done some other bits

1. Removed both shock bolts and regreased, both were bone dry.
2. Removed the end cap from the non cassette side of the rear hub and checked the bearing, moved smoothly but all grease that was there had turned to dust so packed full of grease and resealed.
3. Regreased rear axle again and axle faces
4. Actually removed the pedals and regreased them, there was virtually no grease on the threads
5. A big one here, save the best to last and all that. I've been torquing the rear axle to 13nm, same as front axle as there's no markings on the frame actually specifying it so assumed that'd be enough, decided to check the manual and it actually says 25nm, it honked and creaked a bit tightening it to 25nm so, its very likely it could be that

Wont be riding again till Tuesday or Wednesday so we will see, if it's still creaking then I'll order the right lock ring tool and go at the cassette
Need to do the UDH too but my torque wrench tops out at 25nm so didn't wanna mess with that just yet but should the creak still not be excorcised that will get sorted along with the cassette.

Have also considered asking my wife to squat in the driveway whilst I ride in circles around her to try and pinpoint the exact location, but obviously that's a last resort

 

[RustyMTB]

Well mine's creaking again, so now I don't care about yours.

 

[Just gan]

A set of bone conductor headphones sorts out most creaks I have found. You do hear the biggest ones just before it breaks.

 

[OffitThatM8]

A set of bone conductor headphones sorts out most creaks I have found. You do hear the biggest ones just before it breaks.

I've been eying some of those up for a good while actually you know, I run 2-3 times a week and have my first half marathon later this year

Used to always ride with headphones in back before phones started getting rid of the aux port, any recommendations? What's the sound quality like? Are they tinny? I run with galaxy buds pro in so keen to know how bone conductors would compare

 

[Just gan]

I've been eying some of those up for a good while actually you know, I run 2-3 times a week and have my first half marathon later this year

Used to always ride with headphones in back before phones started getting rid of the aux port, any recommendations? What's the sound quality like? Are they tinny? I run with galaxy buds pro in so keen to know how bone conductors would compare

Aftershox i got I have had for 10 years. Sound can't compare to proper cans to be fair. Not much good if windy unless you cover ears with hat or put earplugs in. I use them for hill walks well so suit me . I find sometimes get uncomfortable on bike if you have glasses on and helmet straps as well round ears. Not selling them really I'm I. Mine go round back of head never tried the small ear ones. Perfect on a bus train or plane though.

 

[Arminius]

Have we had:

• In case of tubes: Valve seat in rim?
• Keys or whatever in pockets or backpack?

 

[Just gan]

Have we had:

• In case of tubes: Valve seat in rim?
• Keys or whatever in pockets or backpack?

Not a creak but the other day I was walking on a route I cycle as well. Hears this tinkle it was windy. I thought it was the telegraph pole like mast on sailing boat noise. Then the bike went racing past . Twice this week I was caught like that.

 

[RustyMTB]

Well I've fixed my creaks, one was dirt in the upper headset, the other dirt in the saddle rails. The hill I will die on is insisting 90% of bike maintenance is cleaning because it is.

 

[irie]

Well I've fixed my creaks, one was dirt in the upper headset, the other dirt in the saddle rails. The hill I will die on is insisting 90% of bike maintenance is cleaning because it is.

Two places I don't habitually check or clean, will now.

 

[RustyMTB]

I'd argue there's a lot to be said for if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Some things like chains, cassettes etc. should be almost daily routines. Stuff like hub bearings, inner cables and so on, really only need attention once they start being a problem.

 

[irie]

Not a creak but the other day I was walking on a route I cycle as well. Hears this tinkle it was windy. I thought it was the telegraph pole like mast on sailing boat noise. Then the bike went racing past . Twice this week I was caught like that.

Few years ago medical Mrs did hearing tests on me because after riding offroad bikes and road racing motorcycles she figured my hearing was damaged. She was right, my high frequency hearing is shitty. So now have hearing aids (Oticon More 1 rechargeable) which I really notice if I forget to wear them. Just got to be careful that they don't fall out when I crash, and if they do then I have an app on my phone (Samsung Galaxy S23) with a bluetooth hearing aid locator. Have used it once to find a hearing aid post crash which saved a shed load of money because these hearing aids are fecking expensive.

 

[irie]

I'd argue there's a lot to be said for if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Some things like chains, cassettes etc. should be almost daily routines. Stuff like hub bearings, inner cables and so on, really only need attention once they start being a problem.

I'll periodically look to see if mud got lodged there, not places I normally look or clean.

 

[Just gan]

Well I've fixed my creaks, one was dirt in the upper headset, the other dirt in the saddle rails. The hill I will die on is insisting 90% of bike maintenance is cleaning because it is.

When you get a bit older and the natural harder of hearing that comes with it you don't notice the creaks the same. Or think it's your joints so just ignore it.

 

[RustyMTB]

I'll look to see if mud got lodged there, not places I normally look.

There will be because mountain bike. But if it's not causing the bike to creak, then I wouldn't bother unless you're one of those weird bike nerds like me who actually enjoy waving spanners about.

 

[Just gan]

Few years ago medical Mrs did hearing tests on me because after riding offroad bikes and road racing motorcycles she figured my hearing was damaged. She was right, my high frequency hearing is shitty. So now have hearing aids (Oticon More 1 rechargeable) which I really notice if I forget to wear them. Just got to be careful that they don't fall out when I crash, and if they do then I have an app on my phone (Samsung Galaxy S23) with a bluetooth hearing aid locator. Have used it once to find a hearing aid post crash which saved a shed load of money because these hearing aids are fecking expensive.

I have Oticons don't make much difference wearing them I pick things up wrong end of story we get a good laugh at the miss heard lyrics etc. Blue tooth hearing locator love that. You must be younger as mine were free at 64 maybe

 

[Redbikejohn]

Lose wheels spokes was one of mine.
Another one was the seat itself ie where the metal bits go into the plastic.

 

[MeatBike]

Well mine's creaking again, so now I don't care about yours.

Mine started creaking at the weekend too, damn it!

Now I have the fun task that is the bike equivalent of trying to find a fart in jacuzzi!

 

[Weeksy]

Mine started creaking at the weekend too, damn it!

Now I have the fun task that is the bike equivalent of trying to find a fart in jacuzzi!

It gets better over time though. I can find a creak on my Trek Fuel in 1-2 minutes usually, mostly because there's really very few things for a particular noise. I've got 3 general locations it could be.

1. Lower pivot just above BB
2. Seatpost needs cleaning/clamp
3. back ABP bearing area.

It seems with the Fuel that the other points don't really make a noise... i'd say 85% of the time it's the pivot just above the BB, gets gritty round there, a bit dry on the spacers, quick strip and clean and we're silent again.