Chain stretch dilema.

Old Codger

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I have three flat bar chain checkers which I use and change my chains at 0.5%. I recently purchased one of those with the small pins and sliding gauge and printed on it it said that new chains can be between 0.25 and 0.5%.
Thinking this was strange I checked three new Shimano chains, one 12 speed and two 11 speed with all four checkers and sure enough all three chains were at 0.25%.
Does this mean that I should be going up to 0.75% before changing chains? What do people think?
 
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New chains are 0.00% - If your "checker" tells you something else it is not right for whatever reason.
Measuring roller centres is the only failsafe/accurate way to do it IMO.
I now use one of these stupidly priced, but deadly accurate devices....
 
I always measure a new chain over 100 links, ie 50 inches. Then if it is different, (it never is) I can compare later.

Years ago, I used to measure with an internal vernier caliper gauge. The distance I measured was 5.7". A new chain was always 5.700". But when I started using 11 and 12 speed chains, the start measurement started to vary. (I suspect that the rollers were a different diameter to previous). Initially, if I recorded say 5.706" then that was the measurement I used to compare the same chain as it wore. But then I noticed that despite very careful measurement, often repeating the same measurent several times to ensure that I was as accurate as possible, the chain would vary along its length. What! :unsure: Yes, using a vernier caliper, the chain would vary along its length, implying differential wear. It didn't matter how many times I measured the same section of chain I always got the same result, so at least I was consistent. Move the crank half a turn and measure again, different! This should be impossible as it cannot be manufacturing variation within the length of a single chain. I know how chains are made and it is unlikely to the Nth degree. Maybe the rollers are barrel-shaped, or maybe they do wear differentially? :unsure:

So I stopped using my vernier caliper (more accurate than a go/no-go chain gauge.) Instead I started removing the chain and measuring across 100 links. This method averages out any section-to-section wear and reduces the error impact of any measuring-device-to-chain-contact variation by nearly nine fold.

What this says to me is that the short distance over which chain gauges operate cause them to be inheritantly inaccurate and can cause a chain to be retired long before it is necessary.

So if you have a chain that is due to be replaced according to your chain gauage, check the chain over 100 links and then make your decision. Measure with a metal tape measure, with the chain laid flat over a flat surface and pulled tight.
50" = new chain
50-1/8" = 0.25% = OK
50-1/4" = 0.5% = OK (As far as I'm concerned, but I'd buy a replacement ready for action. As long as the chain is running OK).
50-3/8" = 0.75% = replacement asap.

But you don't have to measure to the nearest one eighth of an inch. Most metal tape meaures have increments of 1/16". That is to 0.125%. That is more than accurate enough, but if you are careful, it is quite easy to meaure to 1/32" i(0.06%)! The choice is yours. :)
 
I always measure a new chain over 100 links, ie 50 inches. Then if it is different, (it never is) I can compare later.

Years ago, I used to measure with an internal vernier caliper gauge. The distance I measured was 5.7". A new chain was always 5.700". But when I started using 11 and 12 speed chains, the start measurement started to vary. (I suspect that the rollers were a different diameter to previous). Initially, if I recorded say 5.706" then that was the measurement I used to compare the same chain as it wore. But then I noticed that despite very careful measurement, often repeating the same measurent several times to ensure that I was as accurate as possible, the chain would vary along its length. What! :unsure: Yes, using a vernier caliper, the chain would vary along its length, implying differential wear. It didn't matter how many times I measured the same section of chain I always got the same result, so at least I was consistent. Move the crank half a turn and measure again, different! This should be impossible as it cannot be manufacturing variation within the length of a single chain. I know how chains are made and it is unlikely to the Nth degree. Maybe the rollers are barrel-shaped, or maybe they do wear differentially? :unsure:

So I stopped using my vernier caliper (more accurate than a go/no-go chain gauge.) Instead I started removing the chain and measuring across 100 links. This method averages out any section-to-section wear and reduces the error impact of any measuring-device-to-chain-contact variation by nearly nine fold.

What this says to me is that the short distance over which chain gauges operate cause them to be inheritantly inaccurate and can cause a chain to be retired long before it is necessary.

So if you have a chain that is due to be replaced according to your chain gauage, check the chain over 100 links and then make your decision. Measure with a metal tape measure, with the chain laid flat over a flat surface and pulled tight.
50" = new chain
50-1/8" = 0.25% = OK
50-1/4" = 0.5% = OK (As far as I'm concerned, but I'd buy a replacement ready for action. As long as the chain is running OK).
50-3/8" = 0.75% = replacement asap.

But you don't have to measure to the nearest one eighth of an inch. Most metal tape meaures have increments of 1/16". That is to 0.125%. That is more than accurate enough, but if you are careful, it is quite easy to meaure to 1/32" i(0.06%)! The choice is yours. :)
I check a new chain (usually Shimano CN-9100) with a Park Tool CC-2 in several places then change the chain when it stretches more than 0.5% from that baseline (normally measures 0.0 when new). Simples.
 
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