cassette wear SLX 12SP

[Maxukeiro]

HI
currently on a 2600 km slx cassette, normally change chain every 600 / 800km depending on wear, and keep it clean and lubed.

Have installed a new chain 150 km ago and even with the speeds nicely tuned, on the smaller cogs it's very clunky - has the same feeling when you don't have the Btension correctly tuned - slow shifting and clunky
is this the sign for a new cassette ?

Does a deore cassette get god mileage or just go for the same and put a SLX

 

[cozzy]

The advantage of Shimano are the replaceable small cogs. I used to replace the 13t when it started to skip with a new chain, as thats my main gear.

 

[RustyMTB]

If you're dialled in on B screw & cable tnesion, I'd try backing off the clutch a quarter turn or so. Counter intuitive but I've found it can affect shifting in the harder gears. As for Shimano sprockets, the replaceable deisgn is neat but good luck finding them for much less than a whole new cassette.

 

[irie]

Deore cassette is ~598g, Slx is ~533g. I think that the 65g weight difference is accounted for by Deore having steel largest sprocket whereas Slx has alloy largest sprocket. Buy the cheapest.

* XT 477g, XTR 376g

 

[Maxukeiro]

The advantage of Shimano are the replaceable small cogs. I used to replace the 13t when it started to skip with a new chain, as thats my main gear.

Thanks but not easy to find that at a "good" price, the ones available it's almost 30% total cost of a complete deore cassette

 

[Maxukeiro]

If you're dialled in on B screw & cable tnesion, I'd try backing off the clutch a quarter turn or so. Counter intuitive but I've found it can affect shifting in the harder gears. As for Shimano sprockets, the replaceable deisgn is neat but good luck finding them for much less than a whole new cassette.

Will give it a try

 

[steve_sordy]

HI
currently on a 2600 km slx cassette, normally change chain every 600 / 800km depending on wear, and keep it clean and lubed.

Have installed a new chain 150 km ago and even with the speeds nicely tuned, on the smaller cogs it's very clunky - has the same feeling when you don't have the Btension correctly tuned - slow shifting and clunky
is this the sign for a new cassette ?

Does a deore cassette get god mileage or just go for the same and put a SLX

Even if you do all the right things with respect to lubrication, maintenance and chain replacement, there will come a time when a new chain will not run well on your cassette. Your cassette is old enough to be in that zone. If you still have it, put your old chain back on the cassette. If it runs better, then keep going with both until once again you have problems then change both.

You say that you change the chains every 600/800km. Are you rotating the chains? By that I mean you keep the old ones and rotate (for example) three chains one after the other, then use them again, then again. The idea is to allow the chains and cassettes to age together and keep them running smoothly. I never have a bike long enough to make that work for me!

Or is it that you use cheap chains and discard each one? I used to do that.
In my opinion, based upon my experience, cheap chains are a false economy. Pay a bit more and you will get much more life. I believe at least x2 and probably x3 vs what you are getting now. And because the chain lasts longer, the cassette (and don't forget the ring!) will also last longer.

An SLX cassette is the sweet spot as far as cost/weight and performance is concerned.

 

[Maxukeiro]

Even if you do all the right things with respect to lubrication, maintenance and chain replacement, there will come a time when a new chain will not run well on your cassette. Your cassette is old enough to be in that zone. If you still have it, put your old chain back on the cassette. If it runs better, then keep going with both until once again you have problems then change both.

You say that you change the chains every 600/800km. Are you rotating the chains? By that I mean you keep the old ones and rotate (for example) three chains one after the other, then use them again, then again. The idea is to allow the chains and cassettes to age together and keep them running smoothly. I never have a bike long enough to make that work for me!

Or is it that you use cheap chains and discard each one? I used to do that.
In my opinion, based upon my experience, cheap chains are a false economy. Pay a bit more and you will get much more life. I believe at least x2 and probably x3 vs what you are getting now. And because the chain lasts longer, the cassette (and don't forget the ring!) will also last longer.

An SLX cassette is the sweet spot as far as cost/weight and performance is concerned.

Normally just use Shimano chains, when goes beyond the wear trash bin with the.
Yes have checked and the last small cogs are toasted
New cassette is coming.
What do you mean by rotation chains?

 

[steve_sordy]

.................
What do you mean by rotation chains?

"Are you rotating the chains? By that I mean you keep the old ones and rotate (for example) three chains one after the other, then use them again, then again. The idea is to allow the chains and cassettes to age together and keep them running smoothly."

Use one chain (no1), then before it is worn out fit another one (chain no2), then before it is worn out fit another one (chain no3), then before it is worn out, go back to the beginning and fit the first chain (no1). Then keep going using the chains in rotation. 1,2,3,1,2,3,1,2............

 

[Maxukeiro]

"Are you rotating the chains? By that I mean you keep the old ones and rotate (for example) three chains one after the other, then use them again, then again. The idea is to allow the chains and cassettes to age together and keep them running smoothly."

Use one chain (no1), then before it is worn out fit another one (chain no2), then before it is worn out fit another one (chain no3), then before it is worn out, go back to the beginning and fit the first chain (no1). Then keep going using the chains in rotation. 1,2,3,1,2,3,1,2............

Was thinking you rotate the chain backwards .

Got it but never do that

 

[James_C]

The method I use, is to buy run 2 chains from new. About monthly, hang them both on 2 nails on your garage wall etc next to each other and whichever is the shortest chain put back on the bike.

 

[Maxukeiro]

The method I use, is to buy run 2 chains from new. About monthly, hang them both on 2 nails on your garage wall etc next to each other and whichever is the shortest chain put back on the bike.

Just use a good chain checker and won't go through the work of removing chains
unless you are waxing them

 

[Hech]

I ride steep hills in wet, muddy conditions, wash the 10 or so 8-9 geared Active Line ebi kes occasionally with hot water and fairy liquid, but have never had an issue with chain or sprocket wear after prob 5000 miles per bike. Obvious y I oil them regularly if not religeously with 3in1 or chainsaw oil. A month ago I bought a near new Vitus e-mythique and almost immediately had problems with 7th (out of 10)gear, the goto sprocket on the flat when motor assist cuts out at 16mph. Chain skips all the time in that gear and only that gear. Drivetrain seems perfect otherwise. Am on 600 miles or so now but has been issue since 250 at least. I hope to replace that single sprocket (16 tooth?) but the relatively cheap shimano cassete is a joke for a 95NM motor. Anyone got a 16 tooth castiron multispline socket for sale?