AXS T-Type not shifting properly on new bike

[toreador]

Hello everyone,

I purchased a Haibike Lyke SE online a few months ago. Since I first custom wrapped it and didn't have time before, I've only just ridden it for the first time.

The whole bike was basically not adjusted correctly. The last two problems concern the XTR front brake, which makes a smacking noise when braking (perhaps discussed in another thread), and the SRAM XX Eagle AXS gear shift, which is not shifting properly.

This is definitely a mechanical problem. According to the app, the battery is fully charged (also the one in the trigger is full), and the shifter is responding and generally working.
However, it doesn't shift into all gears (especially around 7th gear). The first and last gears work fine.
Sometimes the chain even gets stuck between the sprockets when shifting and jams horribly.

I have already tried to solve the problem using micro adjust, but it didn't help.

In the meantime, I have done some research (this is my first electronic gear shift) and am now wondering whether it is “only” due to improper installation or whether there is a defect in the rear derailleur or cassette?

What are your experiences and opinions on this?
How should I proceed? (I don't want to make it worse, as I have no experience with this so far).

 

[Stihldog]

My first experience with a T Type AXS Eagle derailer and cassette was interesting. Within hours after leaving the local Bike Shop with my new purchase (Trek Fuel EXE 8) the shifting was not smooth, quite or accurate. Back to the shop I immediately went.

Besides the micro adjustments that are available for fine derailer alignment, there is A setup procedure which must be followed. The red ring in the SRAM cassette is a critical starting point. None of the mechanics or sales staff understood this procedure.

Five of us stood around my new bike and scratched our heads as we all watch the motion of the derailer, shifting and chain engagement. When they/we finally removed the rear wheel, it was a sales representative that noticed something was assembled incorrectly.

A small axle bushing or spacer was originally installed backwards. That was corrected and a proper setup procedure was done. After some fine micro adjustments with the phone app…perfect!

I’ve never had a problem since. I can easily shift under load or torque. Shifting is quiet, smooth and accurate.

I’m sold on this system and I plan to install this on my 2020 Trek Rail.…when my shimano/sram shifting hack wears out.

I think my magic app number is 14, but I haven’t needed to adjust this since the correct setup.

 

[Panama]

Have you followed the app guides on recommended chain length and the A/B setting adjuster, thingy to make sure they are both correct?

 

[Stihldog]

Have you followed the app guides on recommended chain length and the A/B setting adjuster, thingy to make sure they are both correct?

Yes, there are a number of other things that can affect smooth shifting. Perhaps a qualified or experienced bike mechanic can quickly spot a problem or issue. They can sometimes hear or see a problem that they may be familiar with.

I might personally tackle this problem but it would probably take me much longer and a trial’n’error may not be good.

 

[Chips]

That pic looks slightly out of alignment - the two notches should line up and from what I've read and done with mine, they need to be pretty close to perfectly aligned. Mine would skip 8 on the way down, and was millimetres out, got it close to perfect on the notches and now it works better. process is > Stick in correct gear according to app (usually 8 or 7), extend derailer and engage lock between the cage (where it says A/B) not where you normally would lock it for a chain change, undo rear axel slightly, undo derailleur bolt, pull derailleur all the way back, hold and tighten to 35nm, tighten rear axel, ride.

 

[Mikerb]

I am not sure on your photo which line on the mech is the right one so the mech may not be properly positioned. Assuming the bike was set up properly by the shop in the first place one way you can impact on the proper setting is by removing and then re installing the back wheel incorrectly. So locking the mech forward to release the chain and remove the rear wheel is the usual practise. Refitting the wheel is however slightly different in one respect. You install the wheel and insert the thru axle but do not torque it....leave it just lightly snugged up. Then release the mech, then torque the thru axle. If you torque the thru axle with the mech locked forward you change its correct position. Maybe you have done that.

 

[RustyIron]

The whole setup procedure is sort of the equivalent of setting the b-screw on those old-school derailleurs. You want the jockey wheel close to the cassette, but not crashing into it. I’ve seen new bikes that are maladjusted from the factory/shop. I like to initially set it up as Chips described. Then I like to adjust it more by rotating the shiny part with the indicator line that attaches to the frame. If you get too close, your jockey wheel cage will contact the first cog as you shift from 2 to 1. You need to check the 2-to-1 clearance. The others will be further away.

 

[Mikerb]

That pic looks slightly out of alignment - the two notches should line up and from what I've read and done with mine, they need to be pretty close to perfectly aligned. Mine would skip 8 on the way down, and was millimetres out, got it close to perfect on the notches and now it works better. process is > Stick in correct gear according to app (usually 8 or 7), extend derailer and engage lock between the cage (where it says A/B) not where you normally would lock it for a chain change, undo rear axel slightly, undo derailleur bolt, pull derailleur all the way back, hold and tighten to 35nm, tighten rear axel, ride.

I think you missed a step there. After tightening the mech bolt to 35nm.........RELEASE THE MECH..........tighten thru axle.

 

[Chips]

You're not wrong, quite right in fact, though if you change up high enough it will release itself

 

[toreador]

Thank you very much for your assessment and advice.
You have convinced me that it makes sense to look into this myself.

After going through the correct adjustment procedure, as described in several videos, the shifting now actually works correctly.
Wonderful!

Interestingly, however, the alignment of the two markings relative to each other has not changed. They are not more centered relative to each other, as I had actually expected.
But the important thing is that the shifting works as intended.
Thanks again.

 

[Downhillr]

Thank you very much for your assessment and advice.
You have convinced me that it makes sense to look into this myself.

After going through the correct adjustment procedure, as described in several videos, the shifting now actually works correctly.
Wonderful!

Interestingly, however, the alignment of the two markings relative to each other has not changed. They are not more centered relative to each other, as I had actually expected.
But the important thing is that the shifting works as intended.
Thanks again.

FYi… new firmware update is out, this applies to shifting performance:

https://support.sram.com/hc/en-us/articles/41233546928155-SRAM-Eagle-AXS-Transmission-Cassette-Mapping-Firmware-Update-2-53-8?utm_source=iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_content=firmware&utm_term=DRC_SM_Transmission_Firmware_2.53.8_USA&utm_campaign=drc-sm-firmware-2538