Anyone tried Magura Gustav Pro?

This is a true fact.

I am personally over that way of thinking and I try to keep what I have for as long as possible. Especially if parts are doing a great job.
So, although i still have a set of Magura on one of the bikes, I would nkt buy them again if I will ever need to replace them 🙂
I'd love to see vendors do a better job of enabling the home mechanic with really good quality instructions and videos on how to fix their stuff. Hope again do one of the best jobs here but even they are only about a 5/10 on how good they could be.
 
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What about the caliper?
And what about internals of the pump?

As far as I know , if you have issues with sealing in the caliper (for example) , you canmot rebuild it. Same goes with the lever. Only few parts are repairable. Mostly you need to buy a completely new part.

If Maguras leak (caliper or lever/MC), they're covered under warranty. Some parts on the lever are replaceable also on the Gustavs.
 
Anyone have a source for shift mix adapters for the Gustav Pro?

Why would you want them? They make for less flexible cockpits and worse ergonomics.

But if you insist, they're available from Magura online (at least they are in the USA - for both SRAM an Shjmano iSpec). Search for "shiftmix"

 
Anyone have a source for shift mix adapters for the Gustav Pro?
I have them and I have to agree with other comments, they are non-adjustable for positioning and therefore mostly useless.
 
The adapters, while limited in flexibility work pretty good with the older version of the axs controllers. The new pods (which I don’t particularly like) don’t work.

Otherwise I’m pretty happy with the Gustav brakes.
 
Hey everyone, I just recently joined the group! I thought I’d chime in on the new Gustav pros that just came out. . A lot of yout### videos in German which I couldn’t understand, only a handful of reviews out there but I ended up buying a set with the new 2.5mm rotors because I’m looking for a little more power for some of the steep trails I’ve been riding lately. They have the new quick disconnect fittings on the lines and levers which is different but helpful if your planning on swapping levers out a lot I guess. They say everything is prefilled and just click together and go. That’s wasn’t the case with mine, I ended up bleeding it again after the first ride. It’s not that big of a deal as I kinda expected that would be the case. The levers are pretty big compared to a MT7 which I currently have and the lever is a bit farther from the bar than what I’d like. Just my opinion though but the levers are better suited for a large size hand, I have what I think is a medium size hand and the lever reach didn’t work for me. I adjusted the lever closer with the adjustment but then it felt like I was losing some bite and wasn’t as powerful. I ran them a few times down my local trails and ended up swapping levers to the mt7 with the Gustav calipers. That felt a lot better for me and I have the hc3 levers to adjust the reach and leverage ratio. They feel now with this setup a little more powerful upfront which is what I originally wanted. I love the rear caliper as it looks like it’s built to last and take some serious heat if needed! I ordered a set of SRAM Maven levers to experiment on how they’re going to feel with the Gustav calipers soon. I thought I’d just share my experience if anyone was interested. Thanks
 
I was thinking about testing out a Shigura conversion for shits and grins... largely just to get some extra space / clearance in the cockpit given how bulky the Gustav levers are
 
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After a few rides I'm really in two minds about these brakes. I love the look, the lever feel, the power, all of those are great. The noise though is insane, much worse than MT7s. So disappointing when Magura claim to have changed the pad gap for the better.
 
Suspect there is some adjustment to be made… mine are very quiet. Just came
In from 24 miles and 4200 ft and they didn’t make a sound the entire time
 
Suspect there is some adjustment to be made… mine are very quiet. Just came
In from 24 miles and 4200 ft and they didn’t make a sound the entire time
What method did you use to align the calipers? How much rotor truing did you have to do?
 
Nothing on the rotors. Just took my time with the calipers and basically tried to get them set where I could wiggle each of the four pads. My challenge is always taking my time to tighten down the caliper bolts slowly without tweaking the alignment.
 
Well, I had a total brain fart yesterday and blew the master seal out of the housing on my front brake. New master arrived today and that was the easiest thing to fit ever, fair play to Magura they have done a great job with easy link.

With the safety of a new master fitted I tried to take the old one apart, the cover isn’t too hard to pop off. I reseated the seal and put the cover back on, looks good as new to me.
 
I did actually buy one of those when I got the new master, fingers crossed it works.
Gave it a go, better but not perfect. I had to slightly adjust afterwards to account for a piston that won’t retract fully. Interestingly this happens on both calipers, and it’s the same piston on both. Looking down on the caliper it’s the front/top right piston. I lubricated the front piston to see if that would make a difference but nothing. I wonder if there is something about the design that is causing this?
 
if the calliper is straight after using the alignment tool, it should never need to be moved (tightened down to FT) it then is a piston issue but it will make the brake pad faces straight to the disc, thus taking away the noise.
 
Well, I had a total brain fart yesterday and blew the master seal out of the housing on my front brake. New master arrived today and that was the easiest thing to fit ever, fair play to Magura they have done a great job with easy link.

With the safety of a new master fitted I tried to take the old one apart, the cover isn’t too hard to pop off. I reseated the seal and put the cover back on, looks good as new to me.

Did you need to do a bleed after the swap?
 
if the calliper is straight after using the alignment tool, it should never need to be moved (tightened down to FT) it then is a piston issue but it will make the brake pad faces straight to the disc, thus taking away the noise.
They are straight but it doesn’t take away the noise as the pad is basically rubbing against the rotor for the entire wheel rotation. They seem to be silent now after my very small adjustment anyway.
 
I just installed the Maven levers with the Gustav calipers and gotta say, these things are Powerfull with an easy finger pull. I’m planning a ride this week after work to shake them down. But so far I’m loving it! I have put about 25 miles before the lever swap and mine have been silent and smooth. I did have to rebleed after installation but that didn’t bother me as I was a little skeptical about it working with out bleeding but they prefilled the calipers and levers out of the box so it didn’t take much oil at all. I hope this helps anyone.
 
How is live with the maven levers? Keen to see if anyone has gone Shimano yet on the Gustavs.
 
I’m loving the Maven levers with the Gustavs. I have been running Mt7 brakes before I purchased these Gustav pro. I was initially looking for an upgrade in power but found they didn’t offer much increase in power in my opinion. The Gustav levers were a little large for my liking, but with the Maven levers I get that increase in power I was looking for. The power takes a bit to get used to in the beginning but once you get used to it, I feel I can brake a little later before turns and scrub some speed immediately instead of braking more if that makes any sense. I never tried just Mavens but these feel pretty damn good. The brakes have been completely silent the whole time and I’m only running the stock brake compound so far. So if you wanted even more power, the new pads coming out would only improve if you wanted. Definitely not the cheap way to go spending the money on the Gustavs and the Maven levers but I’m real happy how they turned out so far. If you spent the big bucks on these brakes and want a little more power and better feel for smaller hands, I recommend the Maven levers for sure.
 
From what I read, it seems like Magura are working on a different lever for the Gustavs that will allow them to be run closer to the bars. I think they offer the same for their other brakes, too.

I just installed mine, but they're dragging on full wheel rotation, annoyingly. I think I probably need to remove the pads and open the lever bleed port and push the pistons all the way back in. Is that right?

There seemed to be plenty of room before installing the wheel, but the lever went right back to the bar. I pumped the lever a few times to get the pressure up and now the pads rub round the full rotation of the wheel.
 
I'm struggling with fitting these, not sure if I'm missing something.



I fitted them and the pads were rubbing the full rotation of the disc, so I removed the wheel and pads, opened the bleed port on the lever and pushed the pads back in. I also did a piston massage on all the pistons and used a cotton bud to apply Royal Blood to the piston sidewalls. Then put the wheel back in and... Still rubbing full rotation. I had the caliper loose and pulled the lever whilst I tightened them down, but the caliper ended up just touching the disc on one side and still rubbing full rotation. Then I straightened the caliper out so the disc was more central and it still runs both sides at once for the full rotation.

20250817_164721.jpg
 
I'm struggling with fitting these, not sure if I'm missing something.



I fitted them and the pads were rubbing the full rotation of the disc, so I removed the wheel and pads, opened the bleed port on the lever and pushed the pads back in. I also did a piston massage on all the pistons and used a cotton bud to apply Royal Blood to the piston sidewalls. Then put the wheel back in and... Still rubbing full rotation. I had the caliper loose and pulled the lever whilst I tightened them down, but the caliper ended up just touching the disc on one side and still rubbing full rotation. Then I straightened the caliper out so the disc was more central and it still runs both sides at once for the full rotation.

View attachment 166380

Weirdly, these calipers don't seem to have any sort of pad spring to push them apart when you let go of the lever, so I guess they must just rely on the magnetic pads following the piston back in. But that seems like a bit of an ask...

Any help from those who managed to get them working properly would be very well received. Thanks!
 
Are your rotors the ones that came with the brakes, or a different make, as it looks like the pistons are all the way back and no clearance?

The pads don't need a return spring; they are magnetic. works really well once the calliper is set up straight using the little yellow alignment tool for the brakes.
 
Are your rotors the ones that came with the brakes, or a different make, as it looks like the pistons are all the way back and no clearance?

The pads don't need a return spring; they are magnetic. works really well once the calliper is set up straight using the little yellow alignment tool for the brakes.
Yes, it's the rotors that came with the brakes. Though TBH, I'm not sure that anyone else does rotors thicker than these. The Gustav Pro uses 2.5mm rotors!

Yeah, I know the pads are magnetic, but you're then relying 100% on the calipers pulling the pads back with them.

When I took the pads out I pulled the lever and the pistons didn't move in at the same rate. Usually just one side would come in. Even after putting some royal blood on the sidewalls of the pistons and pushing them in and out 10 times each they still don't move out anywhere close to uniformly. I'm not sure if that's normal or not. Either way, it doesn't really matter when it appears to be dragging both sides at once for the full rotation!

I'm at a loss.
 
Thats really odd.
Those rotors are beefy for sure! Have you got another set you could try?
 
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