And now it's too muddy.....

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tobster

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First it get all slippery when it rains, and now it gets muddy too. Trouble is that due to the design of the front chainwheel area on my 2019 powerfly LT all the mud ends up in a mess around the front chainwheel. And then the little plastic lug in front of the front chainwheel snaps off. The design of the chainring lockring and this lug make this area a mega mud retention system. Anyone else have this happen? What's the solution??
 
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I get the same issue - it's the leaves and twigs that get stuck in the mud and then dragged through the whole drive line. Stopping every half hour to pull crud from the derailleur, chain guide and chainring is the only solution I've found.
 
If you've got the Gen2 with the small chain ring do yourself a huge favour and buy a Mudstop from @Bearing Man as soon as possible. Then bin the chainguide/sprocket nut combo in favour of a simple nut. That will stop all the crap getting ground into a paste and forced through the motor, wrecking it. Ask me how I know...

I happen to have a brand new nut and the spider tool to remove/replace it here that I'd be happy to sell you.
 
Mudstop already fitted and sprocket without chainguide ordered. Or i could stop riding in the mud....
 
Hopefully now sorted. Mud,
8EDF4DF9-8243-4485-911A-37147397CE92.jpeg
twigs and leaves do your worst....
 
However, while the bike did not grind to a halt due to the accumulation of mud & leaves around the front chainring, I did have a couple of instances of the dreaded chainsuck. Presumably this happens because the front chainring is so small. Before I nip off to my man cave (AKA garage) and dig out my anti-chainsuck devices from the 90s, do other people get this happening?
 
tobster said:
do other people get this happening?
Click to expand...
Yes. It's a PITA.

There are two anti chain suck devices that work with the Gen 2 Bosch, one by Moustache and one by Lappierre. I never managed to find anyone who stocked the Moustache one and the Lappierre one is 80 quid and the Yorkshireman in me wouldn't spend the money...

More info on both systems here; Bosch motor MTB, - EMTB Forums
 
Doomanic said:
Moustache system here;

www.larouelibre.fr

ANTI-DERAILLEMENT MOUSTACHE | Accessoires et équipements pour vélo

Retrouvez ce ANTI-DERAILLEMENT MOUSTACHE proposé par le site La Roue Libre, leader dans la vente d\\'accessoire et d\\'équipement de vélo. Anti-déraillement ...
www.larouelibre.fr www.larouelibre.fr
Click to expand...
as ever thanks for your swift reply Doomanic. I wonder whether chainsuck would be reduced if I changed the front chainring to a larger one. I never get into the bottom three gears in the UK so I'm tempted to try a bigger ring
 
I tried a 16. It was better than the 15 but I still had chainsuck occasionally. Keeping the drive train squeaky clean helps, but even then there are rides where it's so mucky that nothing seems to stop it.
 
well I've taken the plunge and ordered an 18T ring. IF chainsuck is caused by a worn ring then it will be sorted with a new chainring and IF it is because the chairing is rather small then it might be sorted as well. Hence i will be none the wiser, unless it has no effect. I'll also go and measure the chain tonight with my Park tool tool and see how badly worn it is. How exciting.
 
I ditch my chains when they start to move north of .50, as I have the park tool with the dial on it., and when the new one comes compare it the current one to see if its worn,

~Dom - can we get titanium chain rings?
 
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Not that I'm aware of. It would make a terrible chainring anyway.
 
Hi there,

Is this the correct lockring to replace the original bash guard/lock ring combo on a Powerfly LT9?
If it is does the same 50mm lock ring tool fit it?

thanks

1607014667346.png
 
Doomanic said:
Not that I'm aware of. It would make a terrible chainring anyway.
Click to expand...

Hey man , ive had this issue when the track gets rough or when i take a bumb on the road my chain jumps off on the top of the chainring and gets stuck between the motor and the chainring. Ive tried 21 and 20t kmc chain rings but it only went worse. Later on i switched to a 20t narrow wide chainring from haibike xduro and problem was gone. Now ive got these small sharp things on the wide tooth. Can i file them away or do i need a new sprocket?
20210216_171329.jpg
20210216_171343.jpg

I dont want to buy this chainring again as its expensive at 95€ and the only narrow wide sprocket that ive found is the sram ex1 18t but that kinda small


Ive made a post here but got no respont yet
www.emtbforums.com

Front chainring bosch.

I'm in need of some help from the experts on here. Today I changed the chain an the 3 smallest sprockets of my cassette. When i took the chain off i noticed the front sprocket had some things(i have no clue whats the name in english) on the outside of the wide theeth. Can i file those away? Or...
www.emtbforums.com www.emtbforums.com
 
The chain needs to be placed in a specific way on that ring. It's a narrow wide ring. So the wide link goes over that wider tooth, narrow link goes on the narrow tooth. Looks like you had it the other way around. At least....that's what it seems like I'm seeing here!
 
tobster said:
Seems to be performing well

View attachment 45083
Click to expand...
Hi! Just seen your post. Basically this is what i want to do, removing the cover from the motor to help mud buildup. Did it helped? was there a lot under before removing it?
In this case are you loosing the chainguard? - I mean the small bit that sticks out to reduce the chain's vertical movement not the circular guide around the front sprocket (which i want to keep). I can see that vertical guard in your photos ...did you buy it seperate or was it under the plastic cover?

The reason i am doing this because my motor started to sound dry possibly from my muddy trails and too much water used at the cleaning.. sounds like its the bearings getting rusty I think. :(
I have already found a really good company to repair the intricate parts (performancelinebearings.com here as: Bearing Man), but i think I try a local company first to quote the problem.

As an additional protection I also want them to install the MudStop and the Crankshaft seal to protect the motor.

If removing the motor cover do i need to order any parts to keep any hanging cables fixed or its pretty safe as it is?

thanks
Adam
 
adammo said:
Hi! Just seen your post. Basically this is what i want to do, removing the cover from the motor to help mud buildup. Did it helped? was there a lot under before removing it?
In this case are you loosing the chainguard? - I mean the small bit that sticks out to reduce the chain's vertical movement not the circular guide around the front sprocket (which i want to keep). I can see that vertical guard in your photos ...did you buy it seperate or was it under the plastic cover?

The reason i am doing this because my motor started to sound dry possibly from my muddy trails and too much water used at the cleaning.. sounds like its the bearings getting rusty I think. :(
I have already found a really good company to repair the intricate parts (performancelinebearings.com here as: Bearing Man), but i think I try a local company first to quote the problem.

As an additional protection I also want them to install the MudStop and the Crankshaft seal to protect the motor.

If removing the motor cover do i need to order any parts to keep any hanging cables fixed or its pretty safe as it is?

thanks
Ada
Click to expand...
 
I did it slightly different and I am very happy with it I have ridden the whole winter in very wet and muddy conditions with no mud build up, no chain suck and the bearings are running like new.

I ditched that large diameter lock ring which was causing most of the buildup. I fitted a mudstop and new crank seal.

I decided I would try and keep the plastic cover so I left the chain guide thing on. Although I don’t think that does anything. I did cut the vertical piece off with a dremel making and sealed the hole with gorilla tape. That vertical moulding doesn’t do anything other than cause mud build up.

I am very happy with the setup it works well and when I get a minute I will neaten the tape up a bit.
1615226116217.jpeg
 
staffiedrone said:
I did it slightly different and I am very happy with it I have ridden the whole winter in very wet and muddy conditions with no mud build up, no chain suck and the bearings are running like new.

I ditched that large diameter lock ring which was causing most of the buildup. I fitted a mudstop and new crank seal.

I decided I would try and keep the plastic cover so I left the chain guide thing on. Although I don’t think that does anything. I did cut the vertical piece off with a dremel making and sealed the hole with gorilla tape. That vertical moulding doesn’t do anything other than cause mud build up.

I am very happy with the setup it works well and when I get a minute I will neaten the tape up a bit.
View attachment 55170
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info staffiedrone.
I will might do something similar. I let do company install the new bearings and additional seals and i will sort out the plastic cover later. I just have to buy a crank tool.
 
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