Ridgydidge
Member
This is a note to report my angleset install on the Amflow. It is possible!
Two reasons - First I prefer around 66 degrees HA as I don't ride burly steeps, rather, less steeply inclined blues with the odd black feature. (Not all of us live in Whistler - I consider most bikes are too slack these days.) Anyway, not a mainstream view probs! Second, when I investigated the prospects for an angleset - taking the Amflow's headset apart - I was pretty aghast. I mean, what a crappy design. First, there is the giving up of 15mm of head tube rigidity to install that funky knock block ring, which is then never even used. Talk about unresolved. Then, the upper bearing uses a 52mm bearing with a flimsy sliver of an alu spacer to 'support' the top of the fork stem. No wonder it flexes in this area. Its a joke. As much as I admire the Chinese, this innovation bravery just ended up a dog's breakfast.
And as a further insult of all this, no existing angleset could be made to fit. However, with some thought I have been able to adapt 9point8's 'Slack-R' IS angleset (specifically, the ‘November’ headset). These are a truly great design, and I have run them on my Tallboy (for a steeper head angle) and my wife's Epic (for a slacker head angle) to great effect.
To do that, for the Amflow, I had to make a couple of custom adapters for the top and bottom, so as to overcome the Amflow's unique design language. My men's shed has an excellent lathe, so armed with a nice chunk of 6061 ally, I set to work.
For the bottom, I removed the knock block ring and crafted a 5mm spacer to sit on top of the existing 10mm of the angleset's intrusion into the frame, making up the total 15mm to the bearing seat inside the Amflow's head stem.
For the top, I machined a 52mm insert, fashioned to take the Slack-R's upper cup assembly. Into that I popped a standard 41mm bearing off an old Cane Creek 40 headset I had laying around.
I also had to take a smidge off the diameter of the Slack-R's bottom tube assembly, to allow it to fit inside the head tube of the Amflow. The resulting assembly can be seen in the following photo.
It all fits great, and I am super happy with the results. Here is the final install.
There are multiple benefits:
. First, I get a head angle of an estimated 65.8 degrees - pretty close to my preferred 66 degrees (= 64.5 + November 1.6 Slack-R - ~0.3 degree lost due to the higher stack that comes from the angleset)
. Second, I get an approximately 1cm higher stack - helping to reduce a common criticism of the Amflow geo (although I get a slightly slacker seat angle - had to adjust my seat forward and the angle down a smidge)
. Third, perhaps most importantly, I get a rock solid connection between the frame and fork. The Slack-R gets tightened up to 40Nm with a special supplied tool to hold everything together inside the head tube. This solidity is helped by the fact that the bearings are now 15cm apart on the fork stem, rather than the previous 11cm - giving so much more leverage on the fork. And I've replaced that flimsy alu top ring with a solid chunk of close fitting alu.
Overall, it is an amazing result. Its hard to describe, but the bike now feels almost burly. It cuts in like a scalpel, allowing incredibly precise line choice. All up, I think it overcomes one of the major problems with the Amflow frame. Ride on!
Two reasons - First I prefer around 66 degrees HA as I don't ride burly steeps, rather, less steeply inclined blues with the odd black feature. (Not all of us live in Whistler - I consider most bikes are too slack these days.) Anyway, not a mainstream view probs! Second, when I investigated the prospects for an angleset - taking the Amflow's headset apart - I was pretty aghast. I mean, what a crappy design. First, there is the giving up of 15mm of head tube rigidity to install that funky knock block ring, which is then never even used. Talk about unresolved. Then, the upper bearing uses a 52mm bearing with a flimsy sliver of an alu spacer to 'support' the top of the fork stem. No wonder it flexes in this area. Its a joke. As much as I admire the Chinese, this innovation bravery just ended up a dog's breakfast.
And as a further insult of all this, no existing angleset could be made to fit. However, with some thought I have been able to adapt 9point8's 'Slack-R' IS angleset (specifically, the ‘November’ headset). These are a truly great design, and I have run them on my Tallboy (for a steeper head angle) and my wife's Epic (for a slacker head angle) to great effect.
To do that, for the Amflow, I had to make a couple of custom adapters for the top and bottom, so as to overcome the Amflow's unique design language. My men's shed has an excellent lathe, so armed with a nice chunk of 6061 ally, I set to work.
For the bottom, I removed the knock block ring and crafted a 5mm spacer to sit on top of the existing 10mm of the angleset's intrusion into the frame, making up the total 15mm to the bearing seat inside the Amflow's head stem.
For the top, I machined a 52mm insert, fashioned to take the Slack-R's upper cup assembly. Into that I popped a standard 41mm bearing off an old Cane Creek 40 headset I had laying around.
I also had to take a smidge off the diameter of the Slack-R's bottom tube assembly, to allow it to fit inside the head tube of the Amflow. The resulting assembly can be seen in the following photo.
It all fits great, and I am super happy with the results. Here is the final install.
There are multiple benefits:
. First, I get a head angle of an estimated 65.8 degrees - pretty close to my preferred 66 degrees (= 64.5 + November 1.6 Slack-R - ~0.3 degree lost due to the higher stack that comes from the angleset)
. Second, I get an approximately 1cm higher stack - helping to reduce a common criticism of the Amflow geo (although I get a slightly slacker seat angle - had to adjust my seat forward and the angle down a smidge)
. Third, perhaps most importantly, I get a rock solid connection between the frame and fork. The Slack-R gets tightened up to 40Nm with a special supplied tool to hold everything together inside the head tube. This solidity is helped by the fact that the bearings are now 15cm apart on the fork stem, rather than the previous 11cm - giving so much more leverage on the fork. And I've replaced that flimsy alu top ring with a solid chunk of close fitting alu.
Overall, it is an amazing result. Its hard to describe, but the bike now feels almost burly. It cuts in like a scalpel, allowing incredibly precise line choice. All up, I think it overcomes one of the major problems with the Amflow frame. Ride on!