2023 Orbea Rise M20 Headset Bearing Replacement Options

[LA_Stu]

Hi

Does anyone have advice for replacement bearings for a 2023 Orbea Rise M20, that are available in the US? I want to replace mine and would like something that's better quality than what it came with. This is the first time I'm replacing headset bearings, so I've done some research, but would like to confirm what I understand and get recommendations for reputable, quality bearings please.

As best I understand, the specs are for two 52x40x7mm 45/45 bearings, and also a 1.5mm 45 degree crown race. I've seen bearings available from Enduro, and it looks like the replacement parts that Orbea sells include those (see attached screenshot) - one in stainless and one in black oxide. I'm not sure if these are the same as what the bike came with, or better quality. Also, I haven't seen where I can get a replacement crown race other than as part of the Orbea replacement part set.

Thanks in advance for any info/guidance on this!

Stu

 

[skizzian]

I'm in the same boat!
rusty oil coming out after 9 months use on two bikes
I'm looking to buy:

Enduro ACB 4545 150 SS Bearings ACB 4545 150 SS - 1-1/2 stainless steel, Angular Contact Headset Bearing​

not impressed with the Spanish Acros bearings
but wanted advice on whether an extraction tool is required? Any advice on here anybody?
first carbon mtb and don't want to shag the frame...

 

[LA_Stu]

I'm in the same boat!
rusty oil coming out after 9 months use on two bikes
I'm looking to buy:

Enduro ACB 4545 150 SS Bearings ACB 4545 150 SS - 1-1/2 stainless steel, Angular Contact Headset Bearing​

not impressed with the Spanish Acros bearings
but wanted advice on whether an extraction tool is required? Any advice on here anybody?
first carbon mtb and don't want to shag the frame...

According to the shop I bought the bike from, the bearings can be removed by hand - no tools required.

 

[skizzian]

According to the shop I bought the bike from, the bearings can be removed by hand - no tools required.

thanks for that! I've bought 2 sets of Enduro bearings SS for the bottom and Black oxide for the top
not having much luck with finding decent instructions - the blue paper seems a bit simple
I'm now worried I'm going to have to disconnect all of my cockpit cables - you wouldn't know anything about that?
Ta

 

[LA_Stu]

thanks for that! I've bought 2 sets of Enduro bearings SS for the bottom and Black oxide for the top
not having much luck with finding decent instructions - the blue paper seems a bit simple
I'm now worried I'm going to have to disconnect all of my cockpit cables - you wouldn't know anything about that?
Ta

If you have the alloy bike then the cables don’t go through the headset so no need to disconnect any cables - it'll be a quick job.

If you have the carbon bike with cables going through the headset you’ll have to disconnect cables and the rear brake line to change the upper bearing. If you disconnect the rear brake line then there's a decent chance you'll need to bleed the brake afterwards (and you should replace the compression olive too), so this might be a job for a shop if you haven't done this type of thing before. The lower bearing can be done without disconnecting any cables/lines.

 

[skizzian]

If you have the alloy bike then the cables don’t go through the headset so no need to disconnect any cables - it'll be a quick job.

If you have the carbon bike with cables going through the headset you’ll have to disconnect cables and the rear brake line to change the upper bearing. If you disconnect the rear brake line then there's a decent chance you'll need to bleed the brake afterwards (and you should replace the compression olive too), so this might be a job for a shop if you haven't done this type of thing before. The lower bearing can be done without disconnecting any cables/lines.

that's what I was worried would be the case
I'm fine with burping the brake
not very keen on pulling cables thru and getting them back
will see what sort of nick the top Bearings are in and decide then I suppose...
Thanks a lot for answering Stu

 

[BAh30]

Is a replacement headset an option? Something like the cane creek 40 or 50?

 

[GunnarNyb]

thanks for that! I've bought 2 sets of Enduro bearings SS for the bottom and Black oxide for the top
not having much luck with finding decent instructions - the blue paper seems a bit simple
I'm now worried I'm going to have to disconnect all of my cockpit cables - you wouldn't know anything about that?
Ta

The headset bearings on my Orbea Rise M20 (2021) feels a bit rough, I tried to tighten them slightly yesterday, but this caused it to be very rough, so I suspected corrosion. Inspired by this thread i decided to have a go at it today.

1. Before dropping the fork I removed the handlebar and suspended it on the frame (first picture(s)).
2. I also removed the brake caliper and the clip that holds the brake line to the fork and tucked the caliper onto the handlebar
3. Regarding the cables, I only disconnected the electrical cable coming out of the frame from the display (if no display then disconnect from the EW-EN100 Junction).
4. I dropped the fork (had to tap it gently with a rubber mallet to get i through the upper bearing) and used a small piece of wood to tap the lower bearing out of the tube.
5. As suspected, the lower bearing was badly corroded. I tried to regrease it (I actually took it apart and cleaned every ball), but still not very good, so it will be replaced. The upper bearing feels OK, but will be replaced as well.
6. I could see that I had pulled the electrical couplings for the switch/display slightly out of the downtube (picture 2), but I was able to push it back in with help of the seat post cable cable. Since the fork it tapered, there is fairly good space for the cables inside the headtube.
7. When remounting the fork, I placed the lower bearing on the fork (rounded profile up) and pushed it carefully through, then while holding the fork in place with one hand I pushed the upper bearing in place (quite tigth, so the fork stays in place when it is fitted.
8. Mounted the handlebar, tightened the bearings and finally tightened the clamp bolts to the correct(ish) torque

 

[skizzian]

Good job
I think those photo's will be really useful for people with the 21-22 models
unfortunately it seems Orbea went and put the cables through the headset and not around the headset on the later model.
I'll bear your tips in mind when I swap the bearings though.
off to Glentress in a couple of weeks - will get on it after the trip

 

[skizzian]

I am not quite sure what you mean? On my 2021 model the following cables all go through the headset:
Right hand side: Seat post cable and Electrical cable. Left hand side: Rear brake line and Gear cable.
(It was the seat post cable I pushed in to relocate the electrical junction into the down tube, corrected in the reply above)

through the centre of the headset bearing - there are no ports in the side of the head tube

 

[Rockhopper70]

View attachment 162376

But your photograph of the work quite clearly shows cable ports at the side of the head tube, not going into the headset cover. What your arrangemt looks like is every home mechanics dream…

 

[skizzian]

But your photograph of the work quite clearly shows cable ports at the side of the head tube, not going into the headset cover. What your arrangemt looks like is every home mechanics dream…I think you meant to reply to gunnar

I think you meant to reply to Gunnar - it's probably a language thing - headset and headtube are pretty similar...

 

[GunnarNyb]

View attachment 162376

Sorry, my mistake :-(
Yes, the cables on my bike go through the Head Tube, not the headset

 

[skizzian]

so I've started stripping the headset (it reminds me of the smash up derby exploding cars) the enduro bearings shown in the top pic are installed (not Acros) - the top bearing is indeed stainless - the bottom bearing where all the water is, is steel black oxide and of course is totally shot - crazy engineering decision - good news is that I won't have to break all the cables and just put a new stainless in the bottom. the blue paper looks pretty good now that I've delved deeper.
fingers crossed it all goes back together ok...

 

[cookie70]

the bottom bearing is easy to change (just drop the fork), the top one is another story! I'd suggest using tape and tape the top of the headset to the frame so when you drop the fork its all stays in place and not fall apart. Change the lower bearing and put push the fork back up and hopefully everything just fits together without fuss

 

[skizzian]

the bottom bearing is easy to change (just drop the fork), the top one is another story! I'd suggest using tape and tape the top of the headset to the frame so when you drop the fork its all stays in place and not fall apart. Change the lower bearing and put push the fork back up and hopefully everything just fits together without fuss

100% - a bit late for mine with the tape - but will be doing the missus' bike next and will tape it to kingdom come! Cheers.

 

[LA_Stu]

...the enduro bearings shown in the top pic are installed (not Acros) - the top bearing is indeed stainless - the bottom bearing where all the water is, is steel black oxide and of course is totally shot - crazy engineering decision...

FYI my bike also had Enduro Bearings from the factory, and the Orbea replacement kit that I got included Enduro Bearings (as in the top pic).

I also wondered about why the lower bearing was Black oxide instead of stainless, so I contacted Enduro Bearings to ask about whether there are any disadvantages to replacing it with stainless instead of black oxide. Here's their response:

"Stainless should work great in both positions, and most failures start with corrosion, so they’ll tend to outlast other bearings. That said, it’s a little softer than a black oxide steel bearing, so if you hit a lot of jumps and/or drops, that might be a reason to stick with BO."

 

[skizzian]

FYI my bike also had Enduro Bearings from the factory, and the Orbea replacement kit that I got included Enduro Bearings (as in the top pic).

I also wondered about why the lower bearing was Black oxide instead of stainless, so I contacted Enduro Bearings to ask about whether there are any disadvantages to replacing it with stainless instead of black oxide. Here's their response:

"Stainless should work great in both positions, and most failures start with corrosion, so they’ll tend to outlast other bearings. That said, it’s a little softer than a black oxide steel bearing, so if you hit a lot of jumps and/or drops, that might be a reason to stick with BO."

you definitely asked the right question! their answer took a bit of imagination but it's complete bollocks! I hope you put the SS in the Bottom otherwise it will deteriorate just as quick as previous (I speak as an engineer with some experience in material behaviour) in Orbea's defence the replacement kit is good value! Cheaper than buying from the manufacturer...