Other 2023 Levo SL - Full 29er?

afk314

New Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2023
Messages
19
Reaction score
10
Location
Boise, ID
I'm curious to hear from people who have ridden the 2023 Levo SL in both mullet and full 29er modes. What have you found? What do you like best? What's your height and bike size?

Thanks!
Adam
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
I had 2x 29" wheels, so set mine up as a 29'er.
I'm just under 6ft 2" tall, and am on the S4.

Haven't tried a 27.5" rear... but have ordered a new set of i9 315 Enduro wheels as a 29" pair - so have no intention of making it a mullet. It's plenty manoeuvrable and playful (for me anyway) as a 29'er compared to my previous Levo SL 1.1 - which was XL.
 
I’m 176cm and rode both the S3 and S4 and found the latter to be a better fit. Could have gone either way but I like a longer bike and the S4 was perfect for me.
Rode them in both mullet and 29er and as always 29er just rolls better.
Never gotten on with mullet in all generations of Kenevos and Levos.
 
I actually prefer that's its mullet in S4.
I am 184 cm 95 kilo. So nimble and agile riding tech trails. I guess if I where to only run XC Trails 29 would be better.
I had S5 Levo Gen 3 before.
 
I'm curious to hear from people who have ridden the 2023 Levo SL in both mullet and full 29er modes. What have you found? What do you like best? What's your height and bike size?

Thanks!
Adam
I ride gnarly trails on my 2023 Levo SL and DEFINITELY prefer it in 29".
I have a 29" Maxxis Dissector 2.4 in the rear and leave the flip chip in the 27.5 position. Plenty of tire clearance without lengthening the chainstay. I find this setup to be the best and I tested both wheel sizes thoroughly.
IMHO Specialized should have shipped it without the chainstay flipchip, as a 29" all around and in the slack headset position but fixed.
 
Are there any TCU settings that need to change when switching to a 29” rear wheel?
Good question, I didn't change wheel circumference setting.
The Mastermind application doesn't let you change circumference setting, you have to go to a bike shop (which I never do) I understand shops have access to a program to change the setting and will do it for free or just a small charge.

Distance and speed settings will be slightly off when running a 29" but personally I don't use them. I suppose assist will stay to a higher speed, but doesn't matter when mountain biking - maybe on the road.
 
Good question, I didn't change wheel circumference setting.
The Mastermind application doesn't let you change circumference setting, you have to go to a bike shop (which I never do) I understand shops have access to a program to change the setting and will do it for free or just a small charge.

Distance and speed settings will be slightly off when running a 29" but personally I don't use them. I suppose assist will stay to a higher speed, but doesn't matter when mountain biking - maybe on the road.
That's what I'm finding... My Garmin will say I'm doing say 15mph, but the TCU will be at something like 14.2.
I don't use the TCU for recording my rides - only really for checking the battery level when I have a RE plugged in - as my Garmin says 100%, but the TCU says 150%.
The positive for not changing the TCU to be a 29" wheel is that I maybe get 1mph faster before the limiter cuts in.
 
That's what I'm finding... My Garmin will say I'm doing say 15mph, but the TCU will be at something like 14.2.
I don't use the TCU for recording my rides - only really for checking the battery level when I have a RE plugged in - as my Garmin says 100%, but the TCU says 150%.
The positive for not changing the TCU to be a 29" wheel is that I maybe get 1mph faster before the limiter cuts in.
exactly! Personally I only care about S.O.C.
 
After two months of intense enduro with mullet on a PRO S4, in High, Long and -1°, I have no intention of trying the 29 rear wheel. The SL2 is simply perfect. Agile and very composed. I have Enduro 2020 at home in full 29 and also the KSL Expert full 29. On the Levo Gen3 I tried 29 back and returned to the mullet with long chainstays, more agile and reactive.
 
Doesn't that leave your BB super low running mullet in the 29er position?
 
No with the flip chip in High.

It is better to place the handlebars a little low and the saddle slightly forward so that the front wheel does not lift on very radical climbs.

The overall balance of the bike is fantastic!
 
After two months of intense enduro with mullet on a PRO S4, in High, Long and -1°, I have no intention of trying the 29 rear wheel. The SL2 is simply perfect. Agile and very composed. I have Enduro 2020 at home in full 29 and also the KSL Expert full 29. On the Levo Gen3 I tried 29 back and returned to the mullet with long chainstays, more agile and reactive.
Just came across this - interested how do you compare the 3 bikes? I also have an Enduro and had KSL and sold it. Considering buying a Levo SL gen2 but knowing the other bikes your comparison would be helpful. Thanks.
 
I experimented with 27.5 in long and short chainstay mode and found the bike to be significantly more stable in turns and way more intuitive to lean. It felt more like my 2023 SJ Evo 29er. My observations were the same as the Pinkbike reviewer's observations where he found the mullet in long (29er) chainstay mode to be the best compromise.

The dropout pivot is offset to allow for quick changes between rear wheel sizes without altering the geometry. In the case of a 27.5” rear wheel, you have two choices; a 432mm chainstay length with a -29mm BB drop, or a longer, lower ride position at 442mm and -34mm. Specialized felt that these two lengths fit each half of the size range well, while keeping the nature of the bike on the sporty side. They still offer two options to customers of all sizes, however, I'd wager that riders on the S4 frame size and up will opt for the longer position, regardless of wheelsize.
 
I experimented with 27.5 in long and short chainstay mode and found the bike to be significantly more stable in turns and way more intuitive to lean. It felt more like my 2023 SJ Evo 29er. My observations were the same as the Pinkbike reviewer's observations where he found the mullet in long (29er) chainstay mode to be the best compromise.


Do you know how much it adds to the wheelbase? Thinking of comparing size S5 to my Enduro S4 to see if it makes sense to lengthen
 
Do you know how much it adds to the wheelbase? Thinking of comparing size S5 to my Enduro S4 to see if it makes sense to lengthen
If we extrapolate based on the SJ Evo calculator here.
A SJ EVO changing only the wheel from 29 to 27.5 changes wheelbase fairly proportionately 1261 to 1259 (when in low mode).

Going from high to low on the bottom bracket height flip chip at the horst link (pictured below), which is known as 27.5 to 29er flip chip on the Levo SL, takes a bike with a 27.5 rear from to 1254 in high to 1259 in low. The chainstay changes only 5mm and therefore the wheelbase changes proportionally 5mm as well.

On a S4 Levo SL with a stock wheelbase of 1238mm (Horst flip chip set at "27.5" aka "High") going to "29" aka "Low" adds 10mm. In the Pinkbike comment, he states the chainstay increases 10mm with the flip chip, and I would expect the wheelbase increases proportionally. This 10mm different in chainstay is confirmed here, but it says nothing to the wheelbase length explicitly: Gen.2 Levo SL Chainstay Flip-Chip Kit

Conversely the old flip chip from the SJ Evo says "Adjusts the wheelbase by 5mm:

So putting the flip chip in 29er PLUS adding a 29er wheel would be 10mm + 2mm = 12mm overall wheelbase increase.




1719547038593.png

1719547856269.png
 
If we extrapolate based on the SJ Evo calculator here.
A SJ EVO changing only the wheel from 29 to 27.5 changes wheelbase fairly proportionately 1261 to 1259 (when in low mode).

Going from high to low on the bottom bracket height flip chip at the horst link (pictured below), which is known as 27.5 to 29er flip chip on the Levo SL, takes a bike with a 27.5 rear from to 1254 in high to 1259 in low. The chainstay changes only 5mm and therefore the wheelbase changes proportionally 5mm as well.

On a S4 Levo SL with a stock wheelbase of 1238mm (Horst flip chip set at "27.5" aka "High") going to "29" aka "Low" adds 10mm. In the Pinkbike comment, he states the chainstay increases 10mm with the flip chip, and I would expect the wheelbase increases proportionally. This 10mm different in chainstay is confirmed here, but it says nothing to the wheelbase length explicitly: Gen.2 Levo SL Chainstay Flip-Chip Kit

Conversely the old flip chip from the SJ Evo says "Adjusts the wheelbase by 5mm:

So putting the flip chip in 29er PLUS adding a 29er wheel would be 10mm + 2mm = 12mm overall wheelbase increase.




View attachment 142929
View attachment 142930
Thanks, VERY helpful! I'll try the shorter config first as it's already configured (the bike is brand new, haven't ridden it yet), then I'll try the long. Incidentally, there's this amazing tool for comparing geos: Geometry Geeks I use that to compare the results of the 27.5 and 29er config to my existing 29er bikes
 
I experimented with 27.5 in long and short chainstay mode and found the bike to be significantly more stable in turns and way more intuitive to lean. It felt more like my 2023 SJ Evo 29er. My observations were the same as the Pinkbike reviewer's observations where he found the mullet in long (29er) chainstay mode to be the best compromise.


Also running my S4 as set up in the PB review and imo its the best option. Haven’t tried it in that configuration with the standard headset cup tho
 
  • Like
Reactions: ah1
I experimented with 27.5 in long and short chainstay mode and found the bike to be significantly more stable in turns and way more intuitive to lean. It felt more like my 2023 SJ Evo 29er. My observations were the same as the Pinkbike reviewer's observations where he found the mullet in long (29er) chainstay mode to be the best compromise.


I got my bike and thinking of going this route - I have it setup in slack / low bb. Do you think I should change the BB setting to high if I lengthen the chainstay (and keep 27.5 wheel on rear)? Just worried it might be "too much" to go low on everything
 
I got my bike and thinking of going this route - I have it setup in slack / low bb. Do you think I should change the BB setting to high if I lengthen the chainstay (and keep 27.5 wheel on rear)? Just worried it might be "too much" to go low on everything
I’m not sure because I’m on 5dev 160mm cranks. I’ve never had a strike. It’s unreal to me in 2024 that specialized equips any bike with 170 cranks other than XL sizes
 
  • Like
Reactions: ah1
Thanks for the info! When you do look, plmk if it came in the A or the B setting. Thanks!
Mine came in A but it’s been shifting poorly from day one and now I’m sure it got worse when I put chainstay in long chainstay mode. I need to take it apart and redo whatever the bad specialized dealer did.
 
Last edited:
Mine came in A but it’s been shifting poorly from day one and now I’m sure it got worse when I put chainstay in long chainstay mode. I need to take it apart and redo whatever the bad specialized dealer did.
FWIWI, mine came in B and been shifting poorly even on the stand. I switched to A and now it's fine, before and after the longer chainstay.
 
Sorry actually just looked again ones actually in B not A! The guide says it should be in B oddly. I wonder if I can lock cage forward and switch this around without taking derailleur off
 
Sorry actually just looked again ones actually in B not A! The guide says it should be in B oddly. I wonder if I can lock cage forward and switch this around without taking derailleur off
yes, and I contacted SRAM to ask them to check if their guide is wrong... I know another guy who switched to A.
You don't need to take the derailleur off. Watch the SRAM T-type install video, basically loosen a bit the rear wheel axle, then loosen the derailleur (where it says 35N), then switch from B to A and go through the setup processes, then tighten back. Best to watch the video there are a few steps involved.
 
yes, and I contacted SRAM to ask them to check if their guide is wrong... I know another guy who switched to A.
You don't need to take the derailleur off. Watch the SRAM T-type install video, basically loosen a bit the rear wheel axle, then loosen the derailleur (where it says 35N), then switch from B to A and go through the setup processes, then tighten back. Best to watch the video there are a few steps involved.
It looks pretty straightforward, although I’m in the Airbnb out in the middle of nowhere without all my tools or stand
 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    669K
    Messages
    40,901
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top