Right, "motor bolt torque specs" is a bit like asking "how long is a piece of string" — it depends entirely on which motor and which frame. The bolts are usually frame-specific, not motor-specific, because manufacturers love to add their own custom inserts and washers that change the spec. So here's the cheat sheet from what the forum has accumulated.
By motor / brand
| Motor / Bike | Torque | Notes |
| Bosch CX Gen 4 | 20Nm | T40 Torx Plus, blue Loctite |
| Bosch CX Gen 5 | 30Nm | Different bolt design to Gen 4 |
| Trek Rail (Bosch) | 20Nm | Loctite required on reassembly |
| Cube (Bosch) | 25–30Nm main, 13–15Nm T30 front, 9–11Nm T30 rear | Lockring 20–25Nm |
| DJI Avinox | 20–22Nm | Per official manual |
| Crestline (DJI) | 15Nm | Blue Loctite 242 |
| Yamaha YDX | 22Nm long / 11Nm short (drive side) | |
| Bafang (general) | 35Nm | |
| Bafang M820 casing bolts | A few Nm only | Internal plastics crack easily |
| Shimano EP8/EP801 | Not in dealer manual | Cover bolts 0.6Nm — contact mfr |
| Santa Cruz Vala | 35Nm (Nate) / 30Nm (some owners) | Knocking is a known faff |
| Cannondale Moterra | 25Nm | T40, rear bolts awkward to start |
| Devinci | 30Nm | T40, two main bolts |
| Scott Lumen TQ | 20Nm | Medium Loctite |
| Vitus E-Sommet | 18Nm | |
| Vitus E-Mythique upper shock | 14Nm | |
Carbon frames — generally drop to
11Nm for plate bolts where the spec differs from alloy. Don't blindly apply alloy numbers to a carbon frame.
Universal rules
•
Always use threadlocker — blue Loctite 242/243 unless the manual says otherwise. As
@Ndanger points out, brands like Trek, Cube and Haibike use custom inserts that change the standard Bosch number, so the bike's service manual beats the motor manufacturer's manual every time.
• Use a
proper calibrated torque wrench.
@Philly G's
Trek Rail experience is typical — bolts come loose without Loctite even at correct torque.
• Check after the
first 50–100 miles, then periodically. Motor bolts work loose more than almost anything else on an eMTB.
• If a bolt ke