Magura 7S fail (Calipers) on Amflow PL Carbon Pro after only 5 months!

No coffee! 😂 I took the pics for recording after I took out the bleeding screw and saw the oil like colour, as I remembered this topic and statement, that Magura fluid was not blue.

Could be aged or been over heated, from what I learned. Maybe others had seen this as well when bleeding their brakes.

Overall I am happy with the MT7 and run Magura green pads.
 
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Bmin said:
Fyi. I did bleed my Magura MT7 today for the first time and found by surprise brown liquid when removing the bleeding screw from the rear calipers. Can not tell if the shop did bleed the system with different liquid when doing first (mandatory) service at 300km - for that I had no complaint for the brakes and they did not mention to have done anything special. Front break was fine = blue.

Starting to bleed rear brake:

View attachment 188303

Opening screw rear calipers:

View attachment 188304

Brown fluid coming from the system:

View attachment 188305
Click to expand...

Yikes. I hope the goons at the shop didn't use DOT brake fluid...
 
Valaminium said:
Coffee!? Even the new SRAM mineral oil by Epic bleed is green I think! Never seen oil that colour from Magura caliper internals. Shimano caliper sometimes black from seals or grey from shaving material from banjo thread (fluted banjo screws)
Click to expand...
Yes, the SRAM mineral oil is green. Shimano is red. Magura is blue.

Baby oil is good for your feet 🦶😉
 
Bmin said:
No coffee! 😂 I took the pics for recording after I took out the bleeding screw and saw the oil like colour, as I remembered this topic and statement, that Magura fluid was not blue.

Could be aged or been over heated, from what I learned. Maybe others had seen this as well when bleeding their brakes.

Overall I am happy with the MT7 and run Magura green pads.
Click to expand...
Yes, the mineral oil darkens over time and use. It might be time for a full bleed and “flush”. Helps get any foreign particles or moisture out of the system.

I like MT7s also. I’m recently trying some organic pads(experimenting) but checking them more often.
 
Stihldog said:
Yes, the mineral oil darkens over time and use. It might be time for a full bleed and “flush”. Helps get any foreign particles or moisture out of the system.

I like MT7s also. I’m recently trying some organic pads(experimenting) but checking them more often.
Click to expand...

It really does look like DOT fluid though, doesn't it? That's straw yellow.
 
Gentlemen, if that is your straws yellow you should consult your doctor! 😉 The DOT I know from automotive is more a clear stuff.

I did a full exchange on front and rear brake with Royal Blood and in line with Magura recommendation in their video. Including careful mobility check of the pistons.

 
AMFLOW may have claimed that they used the right kind of fluid, but the failure is consistent with using DOT in a mineral system, the color is consistent with DOT, and if they used "mineral oil" that isn't manufacturer spec, then they still screwed up, because not all mineral oils are the same.

Personally, I suspect that they grabbed the wrong fluid when they did the cut/route/bleed process.
 
ArmyOfEvilRobots said:
AMFLOW may have claimed that they used the right kind of fluid, but the failure is consistent with using DOT in a mineral system, the color is consistent with DOT, and if they used "mineral oil" that isn't manufacturer spec, then they still screwed up, because not all mineral oils are the same.

Personally, I suspect that they grabbed the wrong fluid when they did the cut/route/bleed process.
Click to expand...
A shop bled the brakes after the OEM install. Usually no need to bleed a new Magura install at the factory - just cut to length, new barb/olive, and go.

I still think the shop put the wrong brake fluid in.
 
Bmin said:
Gentlemen, if that is your straws yellow you should consult your doctor! 😉 The DOT I know from automotive is more a clear stuff.

I did a full exchange on front and rear brake with Royal Blood and in line with Magura recommendation in their video. Including careful mobility check of the pistons.

Click to expand...

Respectfully disagree. It's a VERY similar color to DOT 4 or 5.1 brake fluid.

brakefluid.webp
 
RickBullotta said:
Respectfully disagree. It's a VERY similar color to DOT 4 or 5.1 brake fluid.

View attachment 188350
Click to expand...
Ups! You are right. I have not been using DOT5.x before. Have an (over aged) batch of DOT4 from my moto here on the shelf that is very very slightly yellow.
However, the DOT is feeling differently on the fingers than oil. What came out of my Magura was definitely oil but may have turned brown due to age & heat?

IMG_0429.webp
 
Bmin said:
Ups! You are right. I have not been using DOT5.x before. Have an (over aged) batch of DOT4 from my moto here on the shelf that is very very slightly yellow.
However, the DOT is feeling differently on the fingers than oil. What came out of my Magura was definitely oil but may have turned brown due to age & heat?

View attachment 188371
Click to expand...
DOT fluids remove paint… and likely dissolve carbotecture plastic, automotive requirements are special butyl seals to contain and operate within a pressurised circuit master-slave/caliper

Maybe someone thought it would handle higher temps totally overlooking compatibility… people do it all the time with engine oils.
 
I should also mention that I recently did a bleed on my Shigura (Shimano lever/Magura calipers, only Royal Blood fluid ever) after a year, and the Royal Blood fluid came out as just darker cloudy blue. It was way _less_ light than new fluid, so I don't think we can blame aging for a color change. It's definitely not the spec'd fluid.
 
Wow! this thread has taken a life of it's own talking about Magura Brake Fuild.

Update. The folks at Magura have pitched in new front and back Brake Rotors (203 mm) + the brake pads on top of a complete back and front replacement kit.

The only thing they won't pay is the Labor...I understand that but feel like if something is under warranty it should be parts and labor. But overall they made me whole...I am grateful.

Lastly the Amflow folks where useless and couldn't help me in any way shape or form...

I should have bought my original dream bike (since I am also Canadian on top of being US and French citizen) --> Forbidden Dreadnought 180mm M2 ($12k ish?)
I know it's too much bike for me, but I regret a bit the Amflow for the reasons that their customer service will never be what a real N.A. Manufacturer is, etc.

Please no derogatory comments ...I am just expressing my honest feedback...
 
Mephistoles1976 said:
Wow! this thread has taken a life of it's own talking about Magura Brake Fuild.

Update. The folks at Magura have pitched in new front and back Brake Rotors (203 mm) + the brake pads on top of a complete back and front replacement kit.

The only thing they won't pay is the Labor...I understand that but feel like if something is under warranty it should be parts and labor. But overall they made me whole...I am grateful.

Lastly the Amflow folks where useless and couldn't help me in any way shape or form...

I should have bought my original dream bike (since I am also Canadian on top of being US and French citizen) --> Forbidden Dreadnought 180mm M2 ($12k ish?)
I know it's too much bike for me, but I regret a bit the Amflow for the reasons that their customer service will never be what a real N.A. Manufacturer is, etc.

Please no derogatory comments ...I am just expressing my honest feedback...
Click to expand...

FWIW, I still think the shop that "fixed" them might have messed them up even further...
 
Mephistoles1976 said:
Wow! this thread has taken a life of it's own talking about Magura Brake Fuild.

Update. The folks at Magura have pitched in new front and back Brake Rotors (203 mm) + the brake pads on top of a complete back and front replacement kit.

The only thing they won't pay is the Labor...I understand that but feel like if something is under warranty it should be parts and labor. But overall they made me whole...I am grateful.

Lastly the Amflow folks where useless and couldn't help me in any way shape or form...

I should have bought my original dream bike (since I am also Canadian on top of being US and French citizen) --> Forbidden Dreadnought 180mm M2 ($12k ish?)
I know it's too much bike for me, but I regret a bit the Amflow for the reasons that their customer service will never be what a real N.A. Manufacturer is, etc.

Please no derogatory comments ...I am just expressing my honest feedback...
Click to expand...
Embrace the project. Not only will you appreciate exactly how the various components operate, assemble but most importantly to detect problems you’ll learn the skills to police any issues before any ride… critical in saving your life furthermore your mobility.

Get started and post photos of uncertainty.
‘we’ can all help.
The hardest part is frame feeding rear brake hose, if fitting new - yours already have it in place? I think someone already quoted this. So don’t pull the existing hose remove the T25 from the faulty caliper ensuring the banjo goes into a bag to contain fluid.

Did Magura provide a bleed kit?
They should of really it includes blue fluid. Before doing anything remove the new pads in the new calipers.
Pull the yellow plastic (2x per caliper) turnaround and fit the blocks after putting the pads somewhere clean, refit the screws (required for blocks to locate…
 
Bmin said:
Could be aged or been over heated, from what I learned. Maybe others had seen this as well when bleeding their brakes.
Click to expand...
Could definitely be aged or overheated, but I have a different theory. Magura MT7s aren't actually brakes, they’re a weekly training course designed to turn all of us into certified bike mechanics. The caliper alignment practice alone deserves college credit.
 
Ndanger said:
Could definitely be aged or overheated, but I have a different theory. Magura MT7s aren't actually brakes, they’re a weekly training course designed to turn all of us into certified bike mechanics. The caliper alignment practice alone deserves college credit.
Click to expand...
Hehehe. I bought one of those dial in piston retraction presses specifically because of these brakes. They definitely have a tendency to run close to the disc too. Constantly getting annoying drag popping up (tching… tching… tching…) That said, holy hell do they clamp good.
 
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