elProfessore
New Member
- May 19, 2026
- 5
- 0
How are you lot washing your bikes without contaminating your pads and rotors?
- Thread starter RipGroove
- Start date
Bac
Member
Probably. I just drop a bit of lube on the chain when it gets noisy and easily get around 2000kms out of a chain and 4000 out of sprockets so can't really complain and no point over analyzing it. Rather go ride
Same. Washing up liquid is a great degreaser. Hot water and Fairy Liquid gets your bike shining. I then rinse off with the hose, and wipe down with a towel.
I use foaming chain cleaner on the drivetrain first - work it through the gears etc then get the above washing up liquid all over it.
I pat down the drivechain as much as I can to remove surface water. I'll use GT85 to drive out any other water, but before I do I stuff a rag behind the rear disc brake to protect it from overspray. Has worked for years, I just make sure no disc is visible behind the rag.
Then I relube with Squirt wax gently cycling through the gears.
Contamination is largely overblown - even if you do get some overspray of lube/GT85 a few quick sharp braking moments will heat up the disc enough to burn off anything on the surface.
what do you think happens when you actually ride the bike lol
Never had a contamination promblem from cleaning.
However, I carry my bike on the back of the car on a towbar rack and I used to have road contamination as my tyres are roughly in line with the discs. To stop that happening, I put zip-top plastic bags over them. Just zip up as much as you can and fold the surplus down between the disc and the spokes No other fastening is required, even at high speed. I use the 200mm bags that my wife buys for kitchen stuff, so they are basically cost free! I cut a diagonal slot into one side of the bag down from the top. (You'll soon work it out). I have never had a contamination problem since. The discs have to be facing the back of the car, or the bags will inflate and get blown off. The bags last for hundreds of miles before getting too raggy to use.
As for cleaning, I use the cheapest car wash shampoo/cleaner that I can buy from Halfords (a motor parts place). Five litres is quite cheap and lasts for ages. a couple of good glugs in 10 litres of hot water and I'm good to go. It generates a solid lather. I wet the bike all over with some rainwater from the butt, using a watering can with the rose. For the oily bits I use a bike friendly degreaser from HOPE (yes, that one) diluted 5:1. I deliver it from a hand spray bottle. You can spray the discs and calipers with this stuff, and its safe. Rinse off with the watering can. Wipe down with an old towel. Never had a contamination problem.
However, I carry my bike on the back of the car on a towbar rack and I used to have road contamination as my tyres are roughly in line with the discs. To stop that happening, I put zip-top plastic bags over them. Just zip up as much as you can and fold the surplus down between the disc and the spokes No other fastening is required, even at high speed. I use the 200mm bags that my wife buys for kitchen stuff, so they are basically cost free! I cut a diagonal slot into one side of the bag down from the top. (You'll soon work it out). I have never had a contamination problem since. The discs have to be facing the back of the car, or the bags will inflate and get blown off. The bags last for hundreds of miles before getting too raggy to use.
As for cleaning, I use the cheapest car wash shampoo/cleaner that I can buy from Halfords (a motor parts place). Five litres is quite cheap and lasts for ages. a couple of good glugs in 10 litres of hot water and I'm good to go. It generates a solid lather. I wet the bike all over with some rainwater from the butt, using a watering can with the rose. For the oily bits I use a bike friendly degreaser from HOPE (yes, that one) diluted 5:1. I deliver it from a hand spray bottle. You can spray the discs and calipers with this stuff, and its safe. Rinse off with the watering can. Wipe down with an old towel. Never had a contamination problem.
Dawn dishwashing soap , warm sudsy water ,, and flower sprinkling setting on the hose.
Vision_Tim
New Member
Muc-Off but only when it's really crusty. Otherwise, I let it dry and use a towel to dust it off.
I use these rotor covers to prevent drivetrain degreaser from splashing onto them
@RipGroove Given that many on this thread have zero problems at best and minimal at worst, then maybe the problem is more connected to you, how you clean your bike, and how you transport it. Is that a possibility? 
- Thread starter
- #42
That would usually be a logical assumption yes, but if you knew me and how damn OCD I am about things like that you wouldn't have assumed that@RipGroove Given that many on this thread have zero problems at best and minimal at worst, then maybe the problem is more connected to you, how you clean your bike, and how you transport it. Is that a possibility?
My only guess is maybe the odd rogue airborne spray in my garage maybe while I've been doing something else non MTB related. I've only had contaminated pads once on this particular emtb but I did ride it to work quite a bit last summer (engineering company) and didn't really have a proper safe place to store it away from the workshop areas so maybe again some rogue airborne oil got near it.
Maybe you are over sensitive to it? I don't like noisy brake either and on the odd occasion that I suddenly get brake honking - probably from something off the trail, I just pull the brake on the affected disc until the honking stops. Getting some heat into the pads and disc seems to burn off whatever it was. It does not always work, but it does most of the time. I believe that most people are affected by brake noise at some time or other. No matter how scrupulous you are with your cleaning regime, you probably ride through some proper crap on the trails in the UK. Who knows what you are riding through? You are certain to get some contamination at some time. It is not your fault, just apply the brakes and burn it off.That would usually be a logical assumption yes, but if you knew me and how damn OCD I am about things like that you wouldn't have assumed that
Mr. Breeze
Member
On more than one occasion/thread I've noted some use "Simple Green" as a cost effective whole-bike cleaner - however I can't speak to if it has any ingredients which could contaminate brakes. Perhaps someone here could speak to that.
I'm in the desert - I usually just hose off and use a cordless leaf blower to get rid of any water - the lack of humidity in the desert quickly takes care of any remaining moisture the blower doesn't get.
I'm in the desert - I usually just hose off and use a cordless leaf blower to get rid of any water - the lack of humidity in the desert quickly takes care of any remaining moisture the blower doesn't get.
- Thread starter
- #45
Definitely not, talking brake squeals loudly and simply doesn't work, even after riding and spraying with water etc, like permanently. To a point the wheel won't lock at all.
Highland Wheels
Well-known member
I spray mine liberally with muc off/loam foam and hose it down without any caution towards the brakes, never had an issue with contaminated brakes from washing. Even with degreaser on the drivetrain
The only time I would get contamination is with the bike on tbe back of the car on a rack. Covers sorted thag but I just fit it in the car now to save any potential issue. Especially with all the salt on the roads up here through the winter months.
The only time I would get contamination is with the bike on tbe back of the car on a rack. Covers sorted thag but I just fit it in the car now to save any potential issue. Especially with all the salt on the roads up here through the winter months.
olde-mtber
Member
Just plain old water and a car wash brush if needed but most of the time I just hose it down and chamois it dry. Nothing else required
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I wax my chains now, so the risk of lube impacting the rotors or pads is almost zero. I also clean my rotors with isopropyl alcohol wipes after washing the bike (once the rotors are dry). I rough up the pads with 400 grit sandpaper about once a month also.
If you're having issues, perhaps you're putting too much chain lube on and not properly wiping it off?
Also never had any issues with Fenwicks Bike Cleaner Concentrate which is diluted 10:1 with water. Buy it in 5 litre cans.
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About once a week, I pop mine on an Enduro Engineering stand and use the shower setting on the garden hose.
Then take it off the stand, bounce it a few times, use a microfiber to wipe off any visible water, ride it up and down the driveway a few times using the brakes and running through the gears.
That's it. I wax my chain so it's always pretty clean, no special care there. Might give it a quick wipe with the same microfiber.
This has worked well for 20 years. If it's been a while and it's extra muddy, I'll spray the whole bike down with a bit of that pink Muc-Off bike cleaner first.
Then take it off the stand, bounce it a few times, use a microfiber to wipe off any visible water, ride it up and down the driveway a few times using the brakes and running through the gears.
That's it. I wax my chain so it's always pretty clean, no special care there. Might give it a quick wipe with the same microfiber.
This has worked well for 20 years. If it's been a while and it's extra muddy, I'll spray the whole bike down with a bit of that pink Muc-Off bike cleaner first.
bmwpowere36m3
Member
Any soap or degreaser without added "shine", "enhancers" or "waxes" works fine... I've never had issues. I generally use automotive soaps, as their more versatile and less expensive than bike specific cleaners.
Chrispy
Member
Never have gotten contamination from washing (let alone normal use). Generally will use a bit of Dawn in warm soapy water with a brush, don't particularly hit the brakes with it but it certainly would get on both pads/rotor but also gets rinsed off.
You know how they say " bad brakes never stopped anybody " 
I am able to have brakes that suck all on my own. Code R new with stock pads made grinding sounds beyond belief. And now I cook pads and rotors on 8120's decending mountain passes to a glaze that have zero braking , with time they come back. Need thicker rotors to help out with the thermal load and about to go 220 mm
I am able to have brakes that suck all on my own. Code R new with stock pads made grinding sounds beyond belief. And now I cook pads and rotors on 8120's decending mountain passes to a glaze that have zero braking , with time they come back. Need thicker rotors to help out with the thermal load and about to go 220 mmMullet69er
New Member
- Mar 9, 2026
- 7
- 14
Don’t change your pads because of a little contamination. Chuck em in the oven at 200 degrees for 20 mins then give them a light sanding. Clean your rotors regularly with brake and parts cleaner for cars, it’s cheaper than bike versions.
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