I dont think its the one stamped on the frame. I had a white sticker with a 12 digit number on it, no letters. This was the one I used.
2020 Decathlon Stilus maintenance and repair
- Thread starter Buzz720
- Start date
Motounion
Member
Thanks ive managed to register it now. Although it says it must be done within 15 days. I fibbed as ive had the bike 3 months now..,
MPJ
Active member
I can't remember if the upper bearing is the same or not as I don't own the bike any more. Someone will be along to tell you soon enough but what I can say is the Stilus eats crown race bearings I.e. the lower one linked above. You're far more likely to have to replace that one than the upper one & in any event, it's a couple of minutes work to disassemble the stem & take the fork out.
Adding a shorty mudguard will help keep a bit of water out of the way & prolong the bearing life. Also, the oem bearing is an FSA part, so not Decathlon penny pinching, it's just a design flaw that the bearing is so exposed to water ingress & if you're at the point where it needs to be changed, you will find that the original has rusted.
ETA: Have a look here, where I & some others discussed upper headset bearing replacement.
Decathlon STILUS Full Suspension Electric Mountain Bike - SRAM SX
Epic views! Where is it? Can you throw some coordinates or name of the region? :) near Porto city, the top point is here...www.emtbforums.com
I decided that the whole world of headsets is far too confusing for my limited brain power so I have just received a new FSA headset from Tredz. Only thing I need to re-use will be the spacers.
As you see the top bearing (3rd in from right) is smaller than the bottom bearing (2nd in from left).
Hope this helps
Last edited:
This happened to my Stilus today:
It was a normal ride as usual in a local forest. I'm not a shredder (no drops, big jumps etc.) and I'm only 67kg, I don't even know when this exactly happened, I only noticed the failure after getting back. I've already raised a warranty claim / support ticket. This thin wall of the bolt head looks to me like a weak spot. Has it happened to anyone else? I wonder how long will it take to handle the repair. I've asked for replacement part, but as far as I can see, unlike for some other bikes (i.e. RR XC900S), the rear triangle pivot parts are not available in the store. I think I've seen a post here on this forum (most probably in the Stilus mega-thread) about stripping the hex socket in the other bolt, I'm curious how Decathlon will resolve this issue.
Damn!
It was a normal ride as usual in a local forest. I'm not a shredder (no drops, big jumps etc.) and I'm only 67kg, I don't even know when this exactly happened, I only noticed the failure after getting back. I've already raised a warranty claim / support ticket. This thin wall of the bolt head looks to me like a weak spot. Has it happened to anyone else? I wonder how long will it take to handle the repair. I've asked for replacement part, but as far as I can see, unlike for some other bikes (i.e. RR XC900S), the rear triangle pivot parts are not available in the store. I think I've seen a post here on this forum (most probably in the Stilus mega-thread) about stripping the hex socket in the other bolt, I'm curious how Decathlon will resolve this issue.
Damn!
Tallguy888
Member
I’m not sure if it’s much help but these frames are made by Lombardo so if Decathlon can help you could try contacting them, it’s a generic frame used in lots of different spec bikes.
Tallguy888
Member
You can use other bolts from other frames if you get the correct measurements.
christos.stav
New Member
Hi! Does anyone have any recommendations for brake pads replacement? So many to choose from and I am not familiar
EBC Brakes model CFA616HH (sintered / metallic) will do the job and can be found for the half price of original SRAM metallic pads.
The only disadvantage is howling when they are wet (but afaik it happens with all metallic pads).
Been using the OEM SRAM Sintered pads since new. Still on my second pair after 1300km of Highlands. Amazed at how long they last, completely quiet and grippy A.F. One-fingered braking dropping across my local reds and blacks around Dunkeld, average rides are 50km with 1000-1300m descending. Just spend the £25 per pair and be done
christos.stav
New Member
Thanks! I willgo for the SRAM original ones then 
Been using the OEM SRAM Sintered pads since new. Still on my second pair after 1300km of Highlands. Amazed at how long they last, completely quiet and grippy A.F. One-fingered braking dropping across my local reds and blacks around Dunkeld, average rides are 50km with 1000-1300m descending. Just spend the £25 per pair and be done
Have you solved the problem? Because I have the same.
Hey, you are in much better situation now, that's because there are replacement parts available at Decathlon now (search for product code 8765250 at their webstore). Definitely not cheap, but it is "plug and play" replacement.
As for me, I did not have that luxury to just buy this replacement kit (they started to sell it few months ago), so I had to solve the problem in other way. I did that by designing something I thought will be a temporary fix (until the replacement parts will be available). But it turned out to be IMO actually even better than the original (at least in terms of reliability).
If you are still interested what I did then:
I've carefully measured the original bolts / axles and designed slightly different solution (for both the main pivot at the chainstays and the rocker link, because I was afraid that it will fail, too). First of all, I ordered 2 steel axles to be made on lathe by the local guy (that specializes in engine repairs, but he had some spare time to help me out). These both are 14.95 mm in diameter, both have M10x1.5 threaded holes on both ends, one is 67.50 mm in length, the other is 69.50 mm in length (but I don't remember right now which one goes as the main pivot axle and which as the rocker link axle). Then there are 4 M10x1.5 countersunk (conical head) screws (also steel) with torx sockets (25 mm thread length) that go into a standard M10 conical washers (stainless steel), that happen to be exactly the same diameter (28.00 mm) as the 6902 bearing to serve as the covers for the bearings. That screw pushes the bearing via this conical washer and another extra washer being 0.50 mm thick. That 0.50 mm washer serves as the support for the inner race of the bearing and allows the outer race to move freely not touching the conical washer.
A picture is worth a thousand words. This picture below shows the "exploded view" of one side of the axle (the other side is exactly the same):
Please, be aware that this was supposed to be a temporary fix, so I don't recommend fixing it like that (especially if you have replacement parts from the manufacturer). There are some potential issues with my solution and you might lose your warranty using it. I didn't have the choice, and my warranty is already gone anyway.
Adding a spider: the OEM one-peice FSA rings appear to be non-boost. Adding a Boost spider puts the chainline about mid-cassette, as you’d expect.
As the Stilus hub is definitely Boost, why wouldn’t they have spec’d a Boost chainring?
Anyone done this? Any issues? Photo shows OEM ring on right, Bosch Boost spider + SRAM ring on left
As the Stilus hub is definitely Boost, why wouldn’t they have spec’d a Boost chainring?
Anyone done this? Any issues? Photo shows OEM ring on right, Bosch Boost spider + SRAM ring on left
Last edited:
kriz
Member
I must have overtightened the rear through axle bolt. I can unscrew the bolt from the threaded insert (removed). But the axle refuses to budge. Has anyone had this issue? Do we know the specs for a replacement? I may have to cut it out.
Hey there, I registered pretty much just to answer your question... 2 years later
All Stilus frames (AFAIK Stilus V1, V2 and the current Stilus E-AM) do suffer from not so good clearance/alignment between the suspension elements plus some bonus design flaws.
If you want your suspension to move butter smooth (and avoid to develop fatigue cracks on frame/bolts in the long run) you must address a few issues:
Pivot A: the clearance between frame and rocker arm is too large. When you tight the bolt at 17 Nm the rocker arm is deformed as the bolt squeeze it against the frame. This cause misalignment between the bearings and most of the roughness you feel and might lead to cracks on the frame welds. This can be solved by adding one shim washer per side. You must check what your clearance is in order to size the shims properly. Should be around 0.6-0.8mm total.
Bolts B: Same as above, use shims to remove all the gap between shock and rocker arm. Here you can also play with shims to give B a better alignment with C and make your shock happier!
Pivot C: Here if you shock has a standard eyelet (w/o bearings), as you torque the pivot bolt to 17Nm you seize the shock between the mountings on the frame. You can lower the torque to about 5Nm and use medium tread locker on the female threads. Again a couple of shim washer can be added to fill the gap and avoid strain on the frame + they can be used to improve alignment with "B"
Pivot D: No shims needed here!
...However the pivot is shorter than it should be and the inner ring of the drive side bearing sit on the pivot for just 1/4 of the ring width. This cause improper bearing loading leading to premature wear.
The fix involve buying a spare pivot "A" (which is a few mm longer) and use it on D.
The pivot on A has a similar problem but there's nothing longer available of that position.
The two bolts on pivot "E" are just fine but them and their twins near the rear hub should be greased with something thick and sticky like marine grease or antiseize on both threads and countersink for ease of removal. They bind alot and their tiny aluminum hex socket is rather fragile.
Torque on A, B, D, E should be lowered to 12-13Nm. At 17 Nm you risk to get regrets...
For C, 5Nm to keep the shock free, medium thread locker on female threads to secure the bolt, and thick grease on the pivot to reduce wear.
Rap Dance 9000
Active member
thanksRemove those 4 rusty allen bolts and the two battery holders subassembly will come off.
Medium thread lock is suggested for reinstallation.
