Hi people
- Thread starter 118
- Start date
Not so far and the UK is mud central right. I posted some pictures on The FB group for a guy after a muddy test ride to show the goodness.
And yes Levo only for the rear, however the Kenevo does not suffer from the same issue, my 2017 also has no issue.
- Thread starter
- #64
Hi Guys - little update..
I demo'd a couple of bikes over the weekend, if you can class, a car park, cycle path, a park and a small copse, as a demo..
Can I ask, what are you guys running in your tyres? Tubes, sealant, inserts or a combination perhaps?
118
I demo'd a couple of bikes over the weekend, if you can class, a car park, cycle path, a park and a small copse, as a demo..
Can I ask, what are you guys running in your tyres? Tubes, sealant, inserts or a combination perhaps?
118
MitchF
E*POWAH Elite
Tubes and Tannus inserts, no punctures so far , I’m running 18lb pressure.
Tubeless in both the 27.5 maxxis minion DHRII fitted to the 17 Levo and also in the 29” on the 19 Levo but running Magic Mary’’s. The minions are 2.8 and the mary’s Are 2.6. I used Stans sealant and have never tried inserts.
In over 1000 miles on the 17 Levo I have had one puncture, it was a large metal staple ridding in a connecting trail to the trails at Cannock, the sealant did it’s job and after using a CO2 cartridge I was up and running in 5 mins.
I’ve done 800 miles on the 2.6 Mary’s and as of yet no punctures.
I would like to try inserts just to see what difference it makes to the ride, on the list for next year.
D
In over 1000 miles on the 17 Levo I have had one puncture, it was a large metal staple ridding in a connecting trail to the trails at Cannock, the sealant did it’s job and after using a CO2 cartridge I was up and running in 5 mins.
I’ve done 800 miles on the 2.6 Mary’s and as of yet no punctures.
I would like to try inserts just to see what difference it makes to the ride, on the list for next year.
D
- Thread starter
- #67
Are you running 29s
18 seems low, however I appreciate that you are running armour. I usually run double that pressure round where I run. Every day is a school day..
118.
- Thread starter
- #68
Did you change straight away through personal preference? I've always ran tubes, with high pressures. As you know around here, there is quite a bit of flint. Off the back of this, I've seen many a ride cut short, as no amount of sealant is going to fill that sidewall gash. Luckily, I've never experienced a flat and all my mtb's are still on their original tubes, can you believe! I used to rack up about 1-1.5k miles, each year, depending on whether I remembered to switch on my strava..
With the added weight of E's, I was curious as to if it's a must do, or simply a personal choice as to which is best for your rubber....(yesterday's demo, came off the rack, punctured..)
Thanks for the reply
118
33red
New Member
Pukmeister
Active member
Running tubeless in Michelin E-Wild 27.5 x 2.6" with OEM sealant inside, just ran them high at between 25 and 30 psi due to hard loose chalk and rock trails and fast downhill over the South Downs to keep a firm feeling, will drop to about 20 psi in softer conditions like mud, roots and loam e.g. local Country Park trails.
Cannock where I usually ride is rocky, not sharp flints but many loose stones. I ran tubeless from the first week, mainly as I hate changing tunes and wanted to see what all the fuss was about. Only ran 18psi front and 20 rear. I had purgatory tyres on it when it was delivered and these were awful, had some very big incidents with the front washing out whatever the pressure, these were 2.9 I think. The 2.8 minions transformed the handling and work well with the low pressure, I’m just over 13st.
I run 23psi front and 25psi rear on the 29” but to be honest I am still trying to discover the perfect tyre pressure and suspension balance on this bike, I am no expert unfortunately and not that much in to learning how to be one alas, I just like to point and ride.
I run 23psi front and 25psi rear on the 29” but to be honest I am still trying to discover the perfect tyre pressure and suspension balance on this bike, I am no expert unfortunately and not that much in to learning how to be one alas, I just like to point and ride.
MitchF
E*POWAH Elite
- Thread starter
- #73
Guys .. no defined winner so to speak, just a personal preference, it seems.
Coming from a dirt track background, pressures have always been key. In my other chosen sport, we don't have a vast tyre choice. It's either this or that. I've transferred what I've learnt from that, and have had no dramatic failures as an consequence. To me, plus sized tyres seem huge, however coming from a xc background, I guess that unless it's not skinny and fast rolling, most would. Yesterday, I rode both 27.5 & 29, with a 'dead' motor and was surprised that neither felt any better/worse than the last. I expected the 29s to be quicker over the same path, at the same speed. That said, on a longer ride they may well come into their own..
Thanks again..
118
Coming from a dirt track background, pressures have always been key. In my other chosen sport, we don't have a vast tyre choice. It's either this or that. I've transferred what I've learnt from that, and have had no dramatic failures as an consequence. To me, plus sized tyres seem huge, however coming from a xc background, I guess that unless it's not skinny and fast rolling, most would. Yesterday, I rode both 27.5 & 29, with a 'dead' motor and was surprised that neither felt any better/worse than the last. I expected the 29s to be quicker over the same path, at the same speed. That said, on a longer ride they may well come into their own..
Thanks again..
118
Rusty
E*POWAH BOSS
- Thread starter
- #75
Personally, or just your tyres?
I understand that you need to burp brakes and suspension, however I wasn't aware tyres needed this too.. but I guess anything controlled by air, needs winding once in a while..
118.
Rusty
E*POWAH BOSS
Burping is when the tubeless tire looses seal and drops pressure. Usually on a big drop/hit and for me usually ends up with a crash.
- Thread starter
- #77
Thanks for clarifying. Whilst I knew suspension/brakes needed burping, I was unaware that tyres did. With my race background, I've always checked tyre pressures as running, effectively, controlled tyres, that was my only option for more performance, from a rubber band. Knobbled at that..This automatically transferred to my mtb's, unless I was just whizzing over to the shops. I, like you, and a few others, have always used tubes. There was no neccessity to run mousse filled tyres, as our 'other' races where only between 60s and 120s durations. Then we'd turn the complete wheel, if a fresh edge was needed and onto the next race. We run bolt tyre clamps to stop the rear tyre from rotating on the rim, so maybe this is another reason, mousse never caught on. Given the fact we usually had a minimum of 6 races, per meeting, if we was lucky, and the cost of wheels, we sometimes changed tyres, halfway through our race program. It all depended on how slick/deep, the tracks where. It's extremely rare that we get punctures, unless a spoke breaks..
Obviously riding mtb's, you need a greater range, in both compounds and patterns, hence more choice. More choice equals, tubes, solutions and inserts I guess..
118.
Pukmeister
Active member
Obviously riding mtb's, you need a greater range, in both compounds and patterns, hence more choice. More choice equals, tubes, solutions and inserts I guess..
118.
If riding competitively then yes.
I ride trails just for leisure/recreation on my weekends off, along with the odd commute rather than for sporting purposes so I went for a 3 compound knobby trail focussed tyre for its climbing ability, grip and puncture resistance. A do-it-all jack of all trades rather than bespoke for certain conditions.
