Rear Tyre Suggestion

Blakey

Blakey

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I’m an intermediate rider. Ride mostly on loamy forest trails and very flinty South Downs hills. My rear tyre has shredded today (second wall rip in the last year). I had to bin it.

What should I replace it with? Any absolute no brainer options? I’d like one that will survive the flinty trails Tubeless.

Thanks!
 
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Blakey said:
I’m an intermediate rider. Ride mostly on loamy first trails and very flinty South Downs hills. My rear tyre has shredded today (second wall rip in the last year). I had to bin it.

What should I replace it with? Any absolute no brainer options? I’d like one that will survive the flinty trails Tubeless.

Thanks!
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Exactly what was the rear tyre that shredded?
 
Would have been a Maxxis Dissector.

Maxxis DHR2 in DD Casing is what you want. It's what I upgraded my PL Carbon Pro to. That or Schwalbe Albert Radial, Gravity Pro. The new Amflows are running this.
 
Astro66 said:
Would have been a Maxxis Dissector.

Maxxis DHR2 in DD Casing is what you want. It's what I upgraded my PL Carbon Pro to. That or Schwalbe Albert Radial, Gravity Pro. The new Amflows are running this.
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Agree - ordered a Magic Mary & Albert radials for when my Maxxis need changing (or start to slide in the mud too much).
 
no pneumatic MTB tyre will survive an argument with freshly broken flint
try and stay away from any freshly ploughed sections
Downhill rated tyres are your best bet
 
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I've run light weight trail casings on the treacherous south downs for years & had exactly one sidewall puncture.
 
RustyMTB said:
I've run light weight trail casings on the treacherous south downs for years & had exactly one sidewall puncture.
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Yes, I know. I think I'm cursed. Had the Amflow for less than a year and had two in the same tyre - both very big, the last one big enough to make me throw the tyre away.

Again, anyone that knows, please can I ask if MAXXIS Minion DHR II is the right choice for a replacement?
 
Yes it's a perfectly good tyre just keep in mind it doesn't have a force field!
 
Kryptotal R soft. I have run the gravity Schwalbe radials twice between 3 sets of Contii's in DH and Enduro casings. The DH casing is 150g heavier, have not had an issue with either in 3 Conti tyre sets. Enduro casing in my latest, just as good as DH.
Just received another set of Conti Krypts in enduro SS/S. Great tyres !
 
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Blakey said:
Yes, I know. I think I'm cursed. Had the Amflow for less than a year and had two in the same tyre - both very big, the last one big enough to make me throw the tyre away.

Again, anyone that knows, please can I ask if MAXXIS Minion DHR II is the right choice for a replacement?
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it's a classic tyre, however hard leans require a wee bit of faith, as there is a distinct gap between the centre and outer treads
also whilst it's pretty good at cleaning mud because of the large gaps - the areas in between are a bit more vulnerable.
something like a kryptotal (downhill) or an Eddy Current (Gravity) or an Albert (Gravity) have more grip/rubber on the ground
All are weighty (you can get the Schwalbe's in Radial if you want a bit more grip/compliance)
 
ericm said:
Can you expand on what is great about them?
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they have excellent grip without being slow, and take out a fair amount of trail chatter
the Pro is the Second generation radial belted version
it has a bit more sidewall support and a different compound to the previous
I haven't ridden the Gen 2 version Albert - but have just replaced a worn gen 1 with the new Tacky Chan radial gravity pro on the back (with the gen 2 updates) for the summer and it really is a great tyre!
(still got the 2.6 gen 1 Ultra Soft Albert on the front)
specialized have recently brought out their own radials - also with a slightly stronger side wall.
I think by using less of an angle on the radial construction - so perhaps less compliance as well.
 
As others have said, a DH wall tire is your best bet. One that is not maximum softness. Because the super soft rear tires will just get chewed out too fast on an E bike. So DH or Enduro wall. In maxxis select max terra not max grip.

With the said. The best tires are still chewed out fast. So my main advice is to find a discount outlet and buy rear tires on sale. Don't be too picky, yourl be shredding that tire out soon enough. Buy what every brand is on special and keep trying different brands and tire combos until the best one shines through. Even then keep buying the discounted tires. There's little point buying full price tires when they are burned out in a matter of months.

PS. No one brand is impervious to slicing in sharp rocks. They all get destroyed. Make the discount tire warehouse your friend.
 
I rode 58 miles across the South Downs yesterday (side note: On a very low asistance Eco mode that only used 59% of my battery which I was super pleased with!) on the new Maxxis. No isssues with any punctures - not that I was expecting to get any!

Follow up question: what PSI do people ride that sort of hilly, flinty terrain on, tubeless?
 
People ride all different pressures, it's largely a preference thing. I ride the downs too, mostly between Arundel & Devils Dyke, so the full range of terrain we have here & running generally 27psi in the rear & 24 in the front. But I ride occasionally with one guy who runs 38 back & front & won't be persuaded to change. I watch him bounce off everything whilst losing his fillings.
 
RustyMTB said:
People ride all different pressures, it's largely a preference thing. I ride the downs too, mostly between Arundel & Devils Dyke, so the full range of terrain we have here & running generally 27psi in the rear & 24 in the front. But I ride occasionally with one guy who runs 38 back & front & won't be persuaded to change. I watch him bounce off everything whilst losing his fillings.
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I think I'm also running far too high. I rode behind a friend yesterday and he's on 23 front and 25 rear. His tyre looks soft to my uneducated eye, but he says he has great grip (makes sense) and other than the odd thorn he's never had any issues. Perhaps I need to let some air out!

Thanks!
 
Reducing pressure allows a tyre to deform to the terrain it's running over & so promote grip. Too high & the tyre bounces off everything, too low & you risk pinch flats, burping sealant, drag & even blowing the tyre off the bead. Finding the sweet spot is just trial & error but for an average rider on an average tyre, somewhere between 20 & 30psi is a reasonable range to mess about with & it's one of the easiest adjustments to make.
 
Blakey said:
I think I'm also running far too high. I rode behind a friend yesterday and he's on 23 front and 25 rear. His tyre looks soft to my uneducated eye, but he says he has great grip (makes sense) and other than the odd thorn he's never had any issues. Perhaps I need to let some air out!

Thanks!
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After some trial and error 23F 25R is what we use in the West Sussex South Downs.

As far as punctures are concerned, can't avoid occasionally getting punctures from Hawthorns.
 
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23r/25f on regular tyres but I found out with the radials you'll have to run them harder, or they'll squirm on heavy turns. Don't go on the recommended pressure for your weight or you'll be way over. I adjusted them for 6-7 back to back rides and settled on 26r/28f, so only 3psi over regular for a 90kg rider, any harder felt bouncy and twanged off rocks. No insert fitted.

I check my tyres if not every ride, at max every second. You get to know if your tyres are holding the pressure and can get away with a check every second ride. I ride up to 5 times a week so it can be every few days.

There's only 2 things touching the ground on your expensive blingy bike, so its very important for consistent riding, knowing the limits and characteristics of the tyre, where the grip is and when it breaks loose. At 25psi, 10% difference is only 2.5psi so bloody important, if you are at 20 or 30psi, that's a massive 20% difference in either direction.
 
irie said:
As far as punctures are concerned, can't avoid occasionally getting punctures from Hawthorns.
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That's the great thing about tubeless - you've probably had more of those than you realise without even noticing. Definitely been my experience when I've looked closely at tyres.
 
Blakey said:
I’m an intermediate rider. Ride mostly on loamy forest trails and very flinty South Downs hills. My rear tyre has shredded today (second wall rip in the last year). I had to bin it.

What should I replace it with? Any absolute no brainer options? I’d like one that will survive the flinty trails Tubeless.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Maxxis aggressor with a DH casing,on a maxxis you want a dh,not a dd casing,dh is the thickest and 120 tpi
 
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