2022 Cube Stereo Hybrid 140R creak - motor bolt torques?

[Touchstone64]

Hi folks,

I'm on the dreaded creak hunt and have disassembled, cleaned, re-greased and re-assembled most of the bike without finding it

With respect to the motor mount bolts, there are six on the frame and eight on the mounting plates. According to the Bosch documentation (attached) they should be tightened to torque settings of 20Nm and 8Nm respectively.

Does anyone have any better advice? Posters in other similar threads recommend using (in this case) Cube service manuals as there may be adjustments from the Bosch default. I can't find such a manual, sad face.

My hope is that the 8Nm value is too low and that's why the creak persists...

Thanks for any help and advice!

 

[Stihldog]

My hope is that the 8Nm value is too low and that's why the creak persists...

8nm torque value for the bracket mounted bolts may not be too low, but I do give it a little extra (10nm). If, when, I remove those small bolts (8) I inspect them carefully. I look for any wear or fatigue where the bracket may be having slight movement.

The bracket holes may appear slightly oval or worn (indicating movement). I replaced the bracket (4) and replace any worn bolts. I’ve heard that some owners use new replacement bolts which don’t use the torx security socket and use hex instead. (I’m not sure about that) . Using new blue loc-tite on each bolt is a good idea though.

Replicating that sound is difficult or almost impossible in a work stand. Subtle movement can be difficult to detect, until it’s too late. It can be necessary sometimes to drop the motor and occasionally check those bolts for wear and torque, especially if you suspect an issue.

The new Gen 5 motor mount seems to be a better system.

For some reason I’ve seen more issues with the drive-side motor mounts, but if that’s not caught in time it just gets worse.

New brackets and bolts are cheap compared to a new motor. . Removing a sheared bolt from the magnesium motor casing is almost impossible.

 

[Touchstone64]

Thanks for taking the time to post that level of detail @Stihldog To be honest the brackets and bolts didn't show any sign of wear or 'looseness' but I'm yet to find the cause. Today I disassembled the seat post and dropper, I know a lot more about those assemblies now. Cleaned, re-greased and re-assembled. Made no difference to the creak

My bike is in a much better condition now, but damn me I have to find this creak. Pivot points next.

May the fourth be with you

 

[Stihldog]

Thanks for taking the time to post that level of detail @Stihldog To be honest the brackets and bolts didn't show any sign of wear or 'looseness' but I'm yet to find the cause. Today I disassembled the seat post and dropper, I know a lot more about those assemblies now. Cleaned, re-greased and re-assembled. Made no difference to the creak

My bike is in a much better condition now, but damn me I have to find this creak. Pivot points next.

May the fourth be with you

Well , it’s been good and bad then. I’m pretty sure you’ll find the creak…but it’ll be the last place you look. Just happened to me,… creaky pedal ffs.

Btw welcome to the “Mystery Creak Club“


Edit; if you’re able, post a video of the creak occurring, with sound. Someone on here may be able to help.

 

[Touchstone64]

Evidence update

While riding at, say, 13MPH on Turbo, creaking away most noticeably when the pedals are at 3 and 9 o'clock, then switch the motor to OFF, the creak all but disappears. With the motor OFF of course, I'm putting more energy into the stroke to maintain speed. Then, switching the motor back to Turbo, so I'm putting less energy into the stroke to maintain the same speed, the creaking returns.

Might this point to any specific cause of the creak?

 

[Stihldog]

Evidence update

While riding at, say, 13MPH on Turbo, creaking away most noticeably when the pedals are at 3 and 9 o'clock, then switch the motor to OFF, the creak all but disappears. With the motor OFF of course, I'm putting more energy into the stroke to maintain speed. Then, switching the motor back to Turbo, so I'm putting less energy into the stroke to maintain the same speed, the creaking returns.

Might this point to any specific cause of the creak?

I hope you found the source. I’ve never had an internal motor issue or failing motor crank bearing's.

Regarding my creaking pedal; 3 and 9 o’clock position was the worse. However, when I applied more torque (leg power) the sound would disappear …then return at lower torque. I can’t explain why but I found dry needle-bearings in the drive-side peddle.

 

[Touchstone64]

I hope you found the source. I’ve never had an internal motor issue or failing motor crank bearing's.

Regarding my creaking pedal; 3 and 9 o’clock position was the worse. However, when I applied more torque (leg power) the sound would disappear …then return at lower torque. I can’t explain why but I found dry needle-bearings in the drive-side peddle.

Not yet!

My first job was to service the pedals, replacing the bearings etc. with the service kit (OneUp Components Aluminium, no needle-bearings), but the creak was exactly the same before and after, so I've ruled them out

 

[Stihldog]

Not yet!

My first job was to service the pedals, replacing the bearings etc. with the service kit (OneUp Components Aluminium, no needle-bearings), but the creak was exactly the same before and after, so I've ruled them out

Well that sucks. You’re likely eliminating every possibility before you commit to the motor. A trip to the local Bike Shop might be necessary for a motor diagnosis …unfortunately.

I have a spare Bosch motor on the shelf, which I rebuilt and tested, just for this situation.

The Motor Rebuild Centre @Bearing Man might be an option if you are out of warranty. He may have some suggestions also.

 

[Touchstone64]

Bike's in the shop

(PS thanks for the pointer to The Motor Rebuild Centre @Stihldog that's a great resource to hang on to)