• How to use this section. To the thread starter: Once you are satisfied with the answer that youve been given, click the Trophy on the left hand side of the message. This will rate this answer as the 'Best Answer' and will change the question status from 'Unanswerd' to 'Answered'. All members can also upvote an answer with the 'Up' arrow, this will help identify the best answer.

How to remove Bearing from Orbea Wild 2025

Hugo Ramos

New Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2025
Messages
7
Reaction score
5
Location
Portugal
Hello,

I need your help with the following:

I’m trying to replace bearing 3.1. As you can see in the image, there is a “circlip” 2.3 being used to secure part 2.1.

I can’t access the circlip 2.3—it’s not visible at all, and part 2.1 won’t budge no matter what I try!

I’m wondering if everything comes out together, but I’d like to know if anyone else has gone through the same thing and can confirm my theory!


Bearing1.webp


Bearing.webp


Best Regards,
HR
 
Following, as had same issue. ended up getting bearings done at shop (First time ive paid someone to work on my bike in 20 years)
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
Hello,

I need your help with the following:

I’m trying to replace bearing 3.1. As you can see in the image, there is a “circlip” 2.3 being used to secure part 2.1.

I can’t access the circlip 2.3—it’s not visible at all, and part 2.1 won’t budge no matter what I try!

I’m wondering if everything comes out together, but I’d like to know if anyone else has gone through the same thing and can confirm my theory!


View attachment 180285

View attachment 180288

Best Regards,
HR
2.1 must have seized onto 3.1 bearing's inner race, so 2.1 would need to be pressed out in order for circlip 2.3 to be exposed. Then once 2.1 and 2.3 are out of the way, bearing 3.1 can then be pressed out.

Or...see also VWsurfbum's suggestion.

 
After purchasing a kit to figure out how everything was installed inside the frame, I realized that part 2.1 just needed to be pulled out and wasn’t secured by anything; I used the tool to remove the bearings, and the part 2.1 came out easily. Retaining ring 2.3 is only there to secure the bearing.
I hope this helps

WhatsApp Image 2026-04-13 at 21.43.25 (1).webp
WhatsApp Image 2026-04-13 at 21.43.25.webp
WhatsApp Image 2026-04-13 at 21.43.26 (1).webp
WhatsApp Image 2026-04-13 at 21.43.26.webp
 
After purchasing a kit to figure out how everything was installed inside the frame, I realized that part 2.1 just needed to be pulled out and wasn’t secured by anything; I used the tool to remove the bearings, and the part 2.1 came out easily. Retaining ring 2.3 is only there to secure the bearing.
I hope this helps

View attachment 181841View attachment 181842View attachment 181843View attachment 181844
Excellent documentation and explanation. Thanks for the follow up.
 
Hello, about the wild linkage main bearings: how can they be removed? There’s no flat surface to rest a drift/puller against for extraction. In fact, only the inner side of the link is flat. The outer side, which is where the bearing has to be extracted from, isn’t. Could it be possible to use a washer against the inner side and press out the bearing on the opposite side? My concern is that doing it this way might crack the link

Senza titolo-1.webp
 
Hello, about the wild linkage main bearings: how can they be removed? There’s no flat surface to rest a drift/puller against for extraction. In fact, only the inner side of the link is flat. The outer side, which is where the bearing has to be extracted from, isn’t. Could it be possible to use a washer against the inner side and press out the bearing on the opposite side? My concern is that doing it this way might crack the link

View attachment 185349

IMG20260527161634.webp
 
the surface is not flat...The surface in the picture before is flat but the bearings enters from the opposite one.
Sorry, I misread your message. There may be a puller cup made (check with Orbea) specifically for your application. Or, if you're handy, fab a soft puller cup from wood or nylon so as to adapt to your angled surface on the link, and rest a puller on, without causing damage.
 
Sorry, I misread your message. There may be a puller cup made (check with Orbea) specifically for your application. Or, if you're handy, fab a soft puller cup from wood or nylon so as to adapt to your angled surface on the link, and rest a puller on, without causing damage.
Thank you. What do you think if I use the flat inner surface of the opposite bearing shell (flat) in order to push the other bearings out? Something like this video:
 
Thank you. What do you think if I use the flat inner surface of the opposite bearing shell (flat) in order to push the other bearings out? Something like this video:
You can use that method if you use a clamp or soft jaw vice to secure the link’s lower flanges, which would prevent the link from spreading and distorting (from the pressing pressure).
 
You can use that method if you use a clamp or soft jaw vice to secure the link’s lower flanges, which would prevent the link from spreading and distorting (from the pressing pressure).
This is my concern: the issue is that using a press against the flange prevents the bearings from being pressed out. The only viable solution seems to be a conventional bearing puller, possibly with the swingarm still attached to the frame at the other pivot locations.
 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    668K
    Messages
    40,779
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top