Question for DIY'ers

[AZ_Rider]

Hi Folks,
I'm a 250 Lb mountain biker. Yep, I should be 230, but I like my beer too much!

In any case, I want to build an E-bike that is heavy duty from a BFang or Bosch kit. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what frame, wheels, and motor I should use. I'm older, so I'm not a jumper, but I hit stumps, rocks, and branches, and I want the sucker to hold up.

All suggestions will be appreciated!

Thanks!

P. S. I'm here in Flagstaff, AZ for reference.

 

[nickf]

The problem with the BBSHD motor is that it's power delivery is purely cadence-based. You can select the power level you want and that's what the motor will put out as soon as you start pedalling, regardless of how fast you pedal or how much torque you apply to the pedals. It's fine - although not brilliant - for a commuter or cargo bike assist, but it's far from ideal for off-road biking.

The Tongsheng TSDZ motors also have a bottom-bracket replacement format, but have a torque sensor to give a support feel more akin to a mid-drive motor found in commercial eMTBs.

You haven't said if you simply want to add a motor to a conventional MTB frame - in which case you'll need to fit it into the bottom bracket - or whether you want to buy an eMTB frame which has integral motor mounts to accept a Bafang motor. In the latter case you'll have more and better motor options, but will need to ensure the frame and motor choices are compatible.

 

[AZ_Rider]

250 lbs and beer? Sounds like a proper mountain biker to me .If you want a tough build, I’d look at a Bafang BBSHD mid-drive, a solid aluminum or steel trail hardtail frame, and strong 32–36 spoke wheels with wide tires. That setup should handle rocks and rough trails without much trouble.Most important though—just get back out there and have fun riding.

Thanks Lauren! Much appreciated!

 

[AZ_Rider]

The problem with the BBSHD motor is that it's power delivery is purely cadence-based. You can select the power level you want and that's what the motor will put out as soon as you start pedalling, regardless of how fast you pedal or how much torque you apply to the pedals. It's fine - although not brilliant - for a commuter or cargo bike assist, but it's far from ideal for off-road biking.

The Tongsheng TSDZ motors also have a bottom-bracket replacement format, but have a torque sensor to give a support feel more akin to a mid-drive motor found in commercial eMTBs.

You haven't said if you simply want to add a motor to a conventional MTB frame - in which case you'll need to fit it into the bottom bracket - or whether you want to buy an eMTB frame which has integral motor mounts to accept a Bafang motor. In the latter case you'll have more and better motor options, but will need to ensure the frame and motor choices are compatible.

Thanks Nick!

I appreciate the advice. I'll look into the eMTB frame. I was leaning toward a conventional hardtail that is rugged, but I'll do some more research.

 

[nickf]

Try looking through the DIY builds forum threads. Many others have built up their own eMTBs and documented the process. Lots of useful info for you there I reckon. Good luck!

 

[Paulquattro]

Welcome to the forum

 

[CaptChip]

Hi Folks,
I'm a 250 Lb mountain biker. Yep, I should be 230, but I like my beer too much!

In any case, I want to build an E-bike that is heavy duty from a BFang or Bosch kit. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what frame, wheels, and motor I should use. I'm older, so I'm not a jumper, but I hit stumps, rocks, and branches, and I want the sucker to hold up.

All suggestions will be appreciated!

Thanks!

P. S. I'm here in Flagstaff, AZ for reference.

I've got a couple of videos on my Tong Sheng mid drive build that you can check out: captainchipowen 5184 on Utube. I use this fantastic motor system on my gravel bikes but it would work on an EMTB build also. The only problem is that the motor wiring exits the motor directly on the bottom and would be subject to damage.

 

[AZ_Rider]

I've got a couple of videos on my Tong Sheng mid drive build that you can check out: captainchipowen 5184 on Utube. I use this fantastic motor system on my gravel bikes but it would work on an EMTB build also. The only problem is that the motor wiring exits the motor directly on the bottom and would be subject to damage.

Thanks. I will review the builds!

 

[deserthi]

Hi Folks,
I'm a 250 Lb mountain biker. Yep, I should be 230, but I like my beer too much!

In any case, I want to build an E-bike that is heavy duty from a BFang or Bosch kit. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what frame, wheels, and motor I should use. I'm older, so I'm not a jumper, but I hit stumps, rocks, and branches, and I want the sucker to hold up.

All suggestions will be appreciated!

Thanks!

P. S. I'm here in Flagstaff, AZ for reference.

You could make your own using the CYC X1 Pro4 and a strong frame. The thing is, that after one buys that motor and a large battery it will cost you upwards of $2500. Add a good MTB and you are up there in cost. You could, instead just buy the Bonnell 775 MX. It comes with that CYC motor and a full steel frame. At $5400 it is a great deal with a frame that will last forever. You can also get a large frame and that would be a bullet proof solution.

 

[mike_kelly]

y

I would look at the CEF50 thread. A number of us are in your weight range and have no problems.
They are great bikes but any DIY you should have good bike repair skills. It is not a way to save money.

Thread 'SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only)'

Jan 2, 2023

See the M820 motor discussion for preliminary details...just making a specific CEF50 frame owners topic.

Total cost with shipping for me was $1750 US. Production starts this February. So, I put down a $500 deposit for a L-size hoping I don't get burned.

• TCFlowClyde
• Replies: 5,061
• Forum: DIY eBike Builds

• 

 

[darwink1]

Im 260 geared up, wheels seem to be the thing that gave me the most trouble.

I've settled on maxxis dh casing tires, cushcore f/r, dt swiss fr541 rims and industry 9 hubs. The only flats I've had recently were caused by broken spokes from rocks sticks and derailleurs.

D

 

[mike_kelly]

I am the same weight and I never have trouble with wheels. IMHO wheel reliability is more about good wheelbuidling than overbuilt parts. I9 hubs are nice hubs but a great set of wheels can be made just was well with Spank or ZTTO hubs, in my experience. I build my own wheels and I never break spokes.

 

[darwink1]

I am the same weight and I never have trouble with wheels. IMHO wheel reliability is more about good wheelbuidling than overbuilt parts. I9 hubs are nice hubs but a great set of wheels can be made just was well with Spank or ZTTO hubs, in my experience. I build my own wheels and I never break spokes.

Its very rocky around here, while hub choice may not be, rim choice is a big deal. Sticks, rocks and derailleurs break my spokes, they don't break spontaneously..

D

 

[Tone461]

Check out NRML MTBer
In some of his earlier videos he talks about frame strength etc.
He's a big guy but can really ride some.

 

[mike_kelly]

Its very rocky around here, while hub choice may not be, rim choice is a big deal. Sticks, rocks and derailleurs break my spokes, they don't break spontaneously..

D

A poorly tensioned wheel can break spokes without sticks or derailleurs.

 

[darwink1]

A poorly tensioned wheel can break spokes without sticks or derailleurs.

I bet.

D